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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 10:55 PM
  #26  
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From: PA, corn fields. Ho-bud
Some can't be cleaned on the car.

The difference lies with the front covers.

Travis
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 02:43 AM
  #27  
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From: Tyrone, PA
Originally Posted by wannawankel
Wow you bought a Mazda rotary engine compression tester - where?
rotary diagnostics , its not a standalone, which makes it a bit less convenient than Travis' testers, but it gets the job done. hook it up the pc and it shows you in the form of a graph with readable psi with some pretty good accuracy. only downside is you have to calculate your rpm of your starter with real math (yuck) . Super easy to see if you have catastrophic failures though. just check the peaks of the graph , if two are low and one is high, generally a pretty obvious failure , and thats without checking any of the actual numbers.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 02:55 AM
  #28  
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From: Tyrone, PA
Originally Posted by rsprenkle
Got it running! Followed deflood procedures! It did have a little idle hunt at first but that seemed to stabilize. Coolant warning light flashed on and of a couple times so drove home and parked it. Time to do coolant flush before I drive again. Which I hope i can do next week.

Thank you everyone from the bottom of my heart. Y'all are awesome!
it might be worth noting that the coolant sensor is an extremely common thing on these vehicles to have fail. if your coolant level is at the appropriate level (which can easily be visualized in the coolant tank) than my suggestion to you would be simply to unplug your coolant sensor (attached to the bottle) I personally have had the same thing happen with mine and have seen many 8's with the same issue. this is easily found if you search the issue on these forums if you wish to see what i'm speaking of. to my understanding the sensor just more or less corrodes and stops being accurate after years of being covered in coolant. only fix is to replace the whole coolant tank, as the sensor in built into the tank. instead of spending the money , most of us do what i mentioned and just unplug the sensor, and the paranoid ones check their coolant level as you add your oil every other week or so.

TLDR: check your coolant level, if its not low, dont waste your money , its the sensor, just unplug it and periodically check your fluid levels.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 03:17 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rsprenkle
I cleaned mine without disconnecting.
I'm intrigued... How?
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 11:38 AM
  #30  
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I had the tire off and airbox out in order to change the coils, plugs and wires. I hit it with a little throttle body cleaner and wiped it down.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 04:44 PM
  #31  
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From: PA, corn fields. Ho-bud
Originally Posted by Williard
Some can't be cleaned on the car.

The difference lies with the front covers.

Travis
Figured I should repeat that.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 05:10 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by iTs Ghastly
it might be worth noting that the coolant sensor is an extremely common thing on these vehicles to have fail. if your coolant level is at the appropriate level (which can easily be visualized in the coolant tank) than my suggestion to you would be simply to unplug your coolant sensor (attached to the bottle) I personally have had the same thing happen with mine and have seen many 8's with the same issue. this is easily found if you search the issue on these forums if you wish to see what i'm speaking of. to my understanding the sensor just more or less corrodes and stops being accurate after years of being covered in coolant. only fix is to replace the whole coolant tank, as the sensor in built into the tank. instead of spending the money , most of us do what i mentioned and just unplug the sensor, and the paranoid ones check their coolant level as you add your oil every other week or so.

TLDR: check your coolant level, if its not low, dont waste your money , its the sensor, just unplug it and periodically check your fluid levels.
Ok, this is an issue I don't agree with.
I would advise against disconnecting or defeating any warning light.
It's around a $100 DIY, and should be fixed correctly.

If someone unplugs their coolant sensor, then a leak could go undetected until the engine overheats, which is VERY BAD!!

I believe the warning light would come on before overheating begins, and most people wouldn't notice the temperature gauge moving until it was already overheating.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 11:22 PM
  #33  
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From: Tyrone, PA
Originally Posted by BigCajun
Ok, this is an issue I don't agree with.
I would advise against disconnecting or defeating any warning light.
It's around a $100 DIY, and should be fixed correctly.

If someone unplugs their coolant sensor, then a leak could go undetected until the engine overheats, which is VERY BAD!!

I believe the warning light would come on before overheating begins, and most people wouldn't notice the temperature gauge moving until it was already overheating.
Fair enough. I agree in that ideally, anything that is broken should be fixed rather than being unplugged, but as a priority thing , as long as you are tentative , and dont put it off until you have an issue, unplugging your sensor will eliminate your dash light until you replace your faulty sensor.

as Cajun stated though, better to fix and have peace of mind and a properly working sensor.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:22 PM
  #34  
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Picture from coil,plug and wire change.Rotor 2 trailing coil looks a little under the weather....
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #35  
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My car, which I love!
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 08:27 PM
  #36  
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From: BALLS DEEP
Originally Posted by rsprenkle



Picture from coil,plug and wire change.Rotor 2 trailing coil looks a little under the weather....
white spots on the bottom of the coils dont mean ****
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
white spots on the bottom of the coils dont mean ****
Thank you for the helpful info. I figured maybe it did since I had misfire on rotor 2.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 10:36 AM
  #38  
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From: Republic of Texas
Originally Posted by rsprenkle
Picture from coil,plug and wire change.Rotor 2 trailing coil looks a little under the weather....
The white spots don't actually mean anything, but that does look like an old coil. They typically last between 10 and 30K miles, so on average, a coil should never be more than 3 years old.

If you have had bad coils for a while, and many people do not notice bad trailing coils, you need to inspect your cat for damage. A clogging cat will eventually kill your engine.
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