Janard Carey

So I'm not new to the scene just new to ownership. I have been watching YouTube vids and reading thru forums for about 2-3 years before finally pulling the trigger on one. I went through several different options from finding them at out of state dealers debating about financing one just to get the newer generation engine with a little less problems or just going ahead and buying a project car knowing I would have to probably rebuild or replace the engine sooner then I would like. But I actually got lucky enough that my neighbor (technically lives on the street directly behind me but we share back yards) has an RX-8 that he's owned since about 2014 and he parked it in about 2016 or so due to what he said was flooding and some clutch issues. It's a 2005 Manual grand Touring edition has nav heated the seats car is beautiful besides the fact it has 3 year old dirt on the paint, a little roof fade from the sun and the interior could use a little TLC but I really love this car and I'm ready to do whatever it takes to get it on the road. Like I said I've read alot of the "Begin here for New owners" and "common problem" threads but I actually had to create an account so I can make a post to get help specifically on my problems because since this is my first 8 and although I have friends that can assist me with there mechanical knowledge I'm not the biggest connoisseur of motors or cars period so I feel as if I need as much help as I can get. Like I said being as that the car sat a while I know there's maintenance just for that but with that the engine is flooded and clutch assembly needs to be replaced all things possible to do but how do I know that's all that has to be done? How do I know if the guy has just sold me an all around dud with a motor that was already doomed from the start? Even if I have to drop a whole new engine in the car to get it running it's not an no way a lost because I got it for dirt cheap and want it bad enough I'm willing to do that but I'll cross that bridge when I get there (don't say if cause all 8 motors need some type of rebuild/replace eventually) but just to be clear the owner only told me of a flooded engine and clutch assembly but I really want to try and service all possible problems or atleast touch on the potential new ones I can encounter to be prepared my biggest question is WHERE TO START!!!???

CaymanRotary

Finding out the condition of the engine is where you need to start. The engine makes or breaks this deal for you. Either it's going to be fine or you will be in for a real nightmare. Replacing an engine (and potentially your transmission) will cost many thousands of dollars ($4,000 - $7,000) to do so make sure this car has a good one.

The first thing you need to check is the ignition system. Battery, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coils and starter. These all need to be in good shape to deflood the engine. Once you know the ignition system is good, you'll need to go through the deflood process to get the engine going. I've included a link to how that works.


Once you've deflooded the engine and it's running, the absolute first thing you'll need to do is a compression test. If the engine fails the test, it's not worth going any further on it unless you are willing to replace or rebuild the engine. If it passes the test congratulations, you are as lucky as I am because I got 2 of my RX8s this way and both are still on the road with their original engines.

Give it a shot and report back!

Edit: the clutch problem hard to diagnose without driving the car. Once it starts and it can drive let us know what the symptoms you have are. It could either just need a clutch kit or worst case, a new transmission.

strokercharged95gt

I say just change the battery and give it hell.....

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Welcome! If you've read the New Owner and similar threads, you probably have your answer already.
Pull the spark plugs to see what's inside. If it has sat flooded for years, the gas might have gummed them up, but give them a good cleaning, new gas, new (or known good) battery and follow deflooding procedure.

Depending on what happens next, you'll know where you stand. If it fires, then plan for a compression test. If it doesn't fire at all, you're into troubleshooting that. If the spark plugs and combustion chambers are full of coolant then new engine time.

I wouldn't drive it until you've proven that each component works: engine, ignition, cooling system, alternator/battery, catalytic converter, brakes.

CaymanRotary

Replacing the fuel is a great idea, agree completely with this. Also agree, once the engine is running, he will need to ensure all of those components you listed are working properly before driving the car.

The compression test is sorely needed and requires a running engine to perform the test properly. You cant compression test a flooded engine as you will get no readings. The first thing will be to get the engine running to allow for a compression test. This is absolutely mandatory in his case otherwise he will be wasting his money fixing parts that will be irrelevant if the engine needs to be replaced first.

Janard Carey

Okay thanks guys! I really appreciate the help I do work alot (I'm actually a car salesman &#129315 but im off on Thursdays and Sundays so I will begin with checking the spark plugs and go forward from there I will keep you guys updated so y'all can help me with the restoration process and hopefully all is well I will post some full body pictures of the car inside and out also

CaymanRotary

If the engine passes the compression test you got it made. Good luck! Keep us posted.

Janard Carey

So I know it's been a while guys I've been working my butt off lately but I'm finally getting to spend some time working on my car due to the "quarantine" so here we are lol. So I changed the ignition coils the spark plugs spark plugs wires put some fresh 91 no ethanol gas and began the deflood process right, only to feel like I wasn't making any progress my motor didn't even sound like the motor on the video it sounded like it wasn't getting any type of gas to it :/ so I saw a method about removing the spark plugs to deflood but before I tried that a friend of mine who was over seeing the work was wondering why he Could not hear the fuel pump so he suggested I spray some starter fluid in the MAF and walla I got some action ! Now I didn't get a full start because of course the lack of gas going into the engine which is why he thinks I need a fuel pump. He has a lot of car experience but no experience of a rotary engine so he could be right could be wrong What are you guys thoughts?

CaymanRotary

Did you check the fuse for your fuel pump? That's where I would start if it wasnt priming with key on.

Janard Carey

Yes I checked the fuse the 20 amp under the hood is still good now I know they have a relay also I did not check the status of that but the 20amp fuse is good the fuel pump isn't making any type of noise indicating that it's job is being done plus when I first turned the key there was no gas like the needle was on E with the light on so it's possible it could've got gunked out

CaymanRotary

Have you tried filling it with gas? Try to eliminate all possible electrical causes before going through all the effort to pull the fuel pump. You can also try to power it directly and see if that turns it on. If it still wont prime even with direct power, you will need to change out your fuel pump.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It's not unheard of for the pump to fail, but what's weird to me is your point about the fuel level sensor. That's a different circuit. Unless there's legit not gas in the tank, it should still work. Unless someone, like a squirrel, has gone to chew on the wiring to and from the fuel pump assembly.

Janard Carey

Yes I filled with gas about a half tank according to the needle on the dash m(car is on jack stands also forgot to mention that) but I filled it with $15 worth of 91 premium no ethanol gas. Brand new battery , spark plugs wires and coils like I said before if you spray starter fluid in the MAF while I'm turning the key you can here the life of the motor it just has no fuel to run and also the fuel pump isn't making any noise the fuse is good haven't checked the fuel relay but the 20amp fuel pump fuse is good the guy I bought it from actually had the seat already off and the plate unscrewed he said his defooding method he disconnects the fuel pump to do it! So idk maybe he damaged something?

Janard Carey

How do I power my fuel pump directly?

CaymanRotary

You link a 12v power source directly to the wiring. Now, because you are close to the fuel tank, ensure you stretch the wires away from the fuel pump to avoid starting a fire.

CaymanRotary

Hilarious. All you need to do is depress the accellerator pedal and that will cut fuel to the engine to allow for deflooding. I'd bet the fuel pump is just fine it just is not wired in correctly. Only way to know for sure is to directly power the pump and see if it primes.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

:o
I would trace the wiring before you apply current to it. You don't want to ignite gasoline vapours because someone took everything apart and forgot how it goes back together :/
Also the previous owner is a lunatic.
Or, take the fuel pump assembly out entirely and connect it to a car battery directly. The battery end would work with jumper cables, but you'll need to figure something out for the fuel pump connector.

CaymanRotary

Why not try to power it inside the fuel tank? It's a huge pain in the *** to get the fuel pump out. Splice in long wires to it and only need to test it for a few seconds to see if it works. Then can go from there. I guess your method is far safer but I'd just try to mitigate my risks. All you want to do is confirm the pump works.

Janard Carey

Well I know I don't wanna start any fires for sure, but I will double check all the connectors and see if he damaged anything or messed anything up, can I get some visuals on how to do the direct power to test the pump?

Janard Carey

And just as a reminder, this is a 2005 with 131,000 miles that has say up for over 4 years the previous owner said 2 but the last registration begs to differ.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I read the earlier comments as the fuel pump was all apart already. If it's still sealed in the tank, it's fine, you can wire it while in the car.

Janard Carey

Yea it's still sealed in the tank like I said he had the seat and panel of it off already because he said that's usually how he delfloods the engine by disconnecting it from there I also texted him about it he said the fuel pump was never an issue for him he said just check to make sure I'm connecting it right but I know I am

Janard Carey

Can I get some visuals on how to directly power the fuel pump so I can test if it's working or not? I will still replace all fuses under the hood and check the connections one more time to be safe but as I stated just for reassurance the engine begins to show signs of running once starter fluid is sprayed into MAF at time of crank, I hear no indication of fuel pump priming and neither does the friends of mine assisting me with the job we checked the fuses but I will still change them anyway to be safe and double check all wire connections will be back with results

CaymanRotary

Did you try using a multimeter to check the connections? That's the best way to go about it. The pump simply needs to receive power. You said earlier you never checked the relay. Maybe swap a relay over and see if that makes the difference? If you are unfamiliar with automotive electronics, it's worthwhile to find someone who does.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Try the test connector in the fuse box. All you have to do is jump the 2 pins and it will send power to the pump. You can't rule out wiring issues between the fuse box and pump.... but that is unlikely in a stock setup.