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I'm not sure what to say here. "No RX8 has 3 injectors" isn't the same as "No, RX8 has 3 injectors" (which isn't even proper grammar). The thing I'm trying to communicate hasn't changed. 4 is the correct number of injectors for a series 1.
anyways, I will drive the 8 to work and back a few times and see if the mileage changed after I found that vacuum leak in the vacuum accumulator from a missing solenoid seal.
Just filled my tank, Will be out friday so will check back after a few days of test driving, I forgot to clear codes so I'll do that before I go out friday to see what comes back.
an update: I'm at 105.2 miles at half tank so far so good.
Also major issue:
My running light's no longer work my side markers aren't lit up, neither are the rear tail lights (Mine have the S2 led tail lights on an s1 body)
I checked the wiring all the way to the fuse box and it's good, the fuse is good, and I've checked any relays related to it, I've even searched this forum for anything related to the DRL's not working, I literally cannot figure it out, applying 12v to the tail lights, the led's light up, the connectors only say they have 0.31v in the connector, I read somewhere about the DRL Module? I took that out and tested the relay it clicks but doesn't seem to output full 12v.
the Renesis can be quite tolerant of overheating, it generally comes down to how bad for how long and general engine seal conditions. Overheating a Renesis is not an automatic rebuild as some people on here suggest.
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an update: I'm at 105.2 miles at half tank so far so good.
Also major issue:
My running light's no longer work my side markers aren't lit up, neither are the rear tail lights (Mine have the S2 led tail lights on an s1 body)
I checked the wiring all the way to the fuse box and it's good, the fuse is good, and I've checked any relays related to it, I've even searched this forum for anything related to the DRL's not working, I literally cannot figure it out, applying 12v to the tail lights, the led's light up, the connectors only say they have 0.31v in the connector, I read somewhere about the DRL Module? I took that out and tested the relay it clicks but doesn't seem to output full 12v.
Is the wiring stock?
LED's are polarity dependent... so if they are wired backwards they don't light up.
Series 1 Sport/High Power has (2) Pri1, (2) Sec, and (2) Pri2 for (6) total
Series 2 had (2) Pri and (2) Sec for a total of (4)
the Renesis can be quite tolerant of overheating, it generally comes down to how bad for how long and general engine seal conditions. Overheating a Renesis is not an automatic rebuild as some people on here suggest.
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LED's are polarity dependent... so if they are wired backwards they don't light up.
If stocK keep looking at the DRL module
The wiring should be stock, although HID's were put it in over the halogen lamps, so there is a little modification towards the headlight side, I don't know if I mentioned it but I did have to modify the flasher module for the LED blinkers.
Although I just checked my fuses AGAIN, and found the TAIL 10A fuse blown, my meter said it had continuity so I just overlooked it, but yeah I pulled every fuse to double check & that one was blown replaced & they light up like new!
Also are the S2 Taillights common to get moisture in them? it seems there's moisture in it quite a bit, my blinker light on the right hand side the 7440 socket has fallen out multiple times and when I try to turn it to lock it in, it never clicks like the others? should I get a new socket or is this very common?
Keep in mind I have a S1 RX8, 2004 Body with maybe a 2006 engine (I honestly don't know how to tell) The engine has a reman tag but the previous owner "SAID" there was an 06 engine in it, however there was never any paperwork with it there was however paperwork for a new transmission put in but that's about it.
Taillights get moisture usually because the light gasket is compromised. It's about $20-40 for the gasket from Mazda and 20 mins of work with a beer in hand. That said, if your socket is falling out, maybe the light housing is damaged?
Taillights get moisture usually because the light gasket is compromised. It's about $20-40 for the gasket from Mazda and 20 mins of work with a beer in hand. That said, if your socket is falling out, maybe the light housing is damaged?
not sure I'd have to check I honestly don't see gaskets on any of them when I replaced the bulbs?
as for the socket part Not sure, the housing seemed fine, I put it in a second time a little tighter still no click but we'll see if that helps at all.
The gasket is between the housing and the body metal. You need to unbolt the taillight to see it. At which point you may as well replace it, but again if there's another reason the light isn't airtight, you'll get moisture all the same.
Misfire is back, but what's odd is only under load if I rev it revs cleanly to redline rev limit in neutral but in drive it doesn't someone mentioned could be back pressure my brother says it could be fuel
I have OEM coils in now
For anyone new I've replaced plugs, wires, coils and I've ran cataclean.
I'm stumped on what to do, getting a compression test after my check in the 31st maybe it's bad compression idk.
Cataclean doesn't do anything , have you actually inspected the cat?
Yes, but only on the headers side as that's the only one I can visually see, it looks perfect doesn't look clogged it's not melted, etc
I really don't want to cut off the pipe to inspect it then re weld it on.
As the cat is welded to the pipe no clamps nothing the only side you can to inspect is the flange side that connects to the header/manifold
I think it might be my ssv or aav solenoid had my brother rev it up to 6k in idle the ssv opened only at 8k rpm but it didn't open all the way it opened barely
what rpms are the ssv and vdi supposed to open at?
And if it opened a little bit does that mean it could be a solenoid?
Revving at idle isn't the same as revving under load, I wouldn't rely on that as an indicator of anything. If the engine isn't pulling a car, it doesn't need to make any real power and none of the systems you expect need to work.
The cat has a 2nd section which you can check through the O2 sensor hole if you have a boroscope or an inspection mirror.
Revving at idle isn't the same as revving under load, I wouldn't rely on that as an indicator of anything. If the engine isn't pulling a car, it doesn't need to make any real power and none of the systems you expect need to work.
The cat has a 2nd section which you can check through the O2 sensor hole if you have a boroscope or an inspection mirror.
Gotcha is there any real way to tell if the ssv is really opening? And I will check the o2 sensor hole with a horoscope to see if it's clogged or not.
Also if it is the cat I'm not worried right now because I'm getting a new exhaust pipe for my new exhaust since my cat pipe broke a hanger rod, and the cat is welded directly to the midpipe by the previous owner so yeah.
