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Can you please guide me on what to do when my gear lever and console gets warm. i mean, while driving a little, the whole gear lever panel and silver console gets pretty warm. My mechanic checked under the car whether a shielding is there which don't let the exhaust heat come up to the front cabin and it is still there. Any ideas about how to avoid it or is it normal?
Remove the catalytic converter. That's right underneath the cabin and cup holders.
As far as Iam aware you don't have emission regulations therefore, removing the CAT won't cause any legal issues.
Removing the CAT will also result in a little cooler interior temperature, your AC won't have to work as hard.
Installed new radiator, filled it up with more water and little coolant. also added a pipe extension to throw overflow water from reservoir bottle to the corner. Now waiting for my coolant kit so that my fan runs on 180f instead of 210f(mazda standard)
Remove the catalytic converter. That's right underneath the cabin and cup holders.
As far as Iam aware you don't have emission regulations therefore, removing the CAT won't cause any legal issues.
Removing the CAT will also result in a little cooler interior temperature, your AC won't have to work as hard.
sure, will do that too soon, but can you tell me how much of a noise difference will it make?
If you just gut the cat, the tone will get deeper and louder, a bit more raspy.
If you remove the cat and replace it with a straight pipe, it will get much louder and much more raspier
If you remove the cat and leave the open pipe there, it will be insanely loud
If you remove the cat and install a properly resonated midpipe, the tone, volume, and rasp will depend on which resonator type you use.
Thanks RIWWP, Hi, If i don't bleed the cooling system After radiator repair, then will it result in water level gradually decreasing in the water reservoir bottle or not?.
If yes then how should i bleed it? put the radiator cap off, start the car and wait for the fan to come on and then shut off the car? is this the right procedure. Kindly answer both questions if anybodys online
You need to bleed the system properly after draining and refilling the coolant for any reason. This is true of any car.
Elevate the front of the car, you can use jack stands, a hill, whatever. Just get the nose up a good 12-24 inches higher than the rear of the car. Then start the car, turn the heat on full blast to get coolant circulating through the heater core too, and let the car idle hot, then raise the revs to 4,000rpm for 10 seconds, then let it idle for a minute, then repeat a few times. Keep an eye on the coolant level. Shut off the car if the coolant in the bottle drops below the minimum mark, cool off the coolant and top off, then repeat. It may take a few times to complete.
And please don't post the same thing in multiple areas of the forum. We see it via Live! (RX8 Live!)
You need to bleed the system properly after draining and refilling the coolant for any reason. This is true of any car.
Elevate the front of the car, you can use jack stands, a hill, whatever. Just get the nose up a good 12-24 inches higher than the rear of the car. Then start the car, turn the heat on full blast to get coolant circulating through the heater core too, and let the car idle hot, then raise the revs to 4,000rpm for 10 seconds, then let it idle for a minute, then repeat a few times. Keep an eye on the coolant level. Shut off the car if the coolant in the bottle drops below the minimum mark, cool off the coolant and top off, then repeat. It may take a few times to complete.
And please don't post the same thing in multiple areas of the forum. We see it via Live! (RX8 Live!)
Ok, sorry, but what about the radiator cap, let it on or off?
Also anyone can hep me with a stupid question.. My Speedometer shows mph instead of kmh.
so does it also mean that the trip A and B meter and total Mileage meter also display the reading in Miles instead of kms?
Cap on. The system will be pressurized by the time you get up to the temps needed to open the thermostat, and cap off will mean that you will just be pushing out coolant, which isn't what you want.
The whole display switches between KPH/Kilometers and MPH/Miles. If KPH is your speed, than your odometer is Kilometers. If MPH is your speed, then your odometer is Mileage. You can switch between them with the cluster's push buttons.
Cap on. The system will be pressurized by the time you get up to the temps needed to open the thermostat, and cap off will mean that you will just be pushing out coolant, which isn't what you want.
The whole display switches between KPH/Kilometers and MPH/Miles. If KPH is your speed, than your odometer is Kilometers. If MPH is your speed, then your odometer is Mileage. You can switch between them with the cluster's push buttons.
Thanks RIWWP, TOday i did the coolant bleeding and after test drive the coolant level didnt decrease in the reservoir bottle. Can you please explain the phenomenon behind it that why coolant level in the reservoir decreases if we don't bleed the system after radiator replace or repair.. thanks ( this is for my learning)
Get a water bottle with a cap. Fill it 2/3rds of the way full with water. Put the cap on. The bottom of the bottle is full of water. Turn it upside down. The bottom of the bottle is now full of air.
Same concept here. Total system capacity is fixed. When you fill up the coolant the first time after draining it, there is air in the system trapped in various points in hoses and inside the engine block. When you start coolant moving through the system, that air gets pushed around, and the goal when bleeding is to ensure that all of that air gets moved to the coolant bottle, and not somewhere else in the engine block or cooling system. Raising the nose of the car helps to encourage air to go there and no where else. Making sure the coolant is hot and the heat is on full blast makes sure that the coolant is circulating through every part of the system, and not just some of it. When air pockets get pushed to the coolant bottle, the 'coolant level' drops, because there is coolant in the rest of the system where there used to be air.
A fully bled system will keep a pretty even coolant level in the bottle while driving.
Get a water bottle with a cap. Fill it 2/3rds of the way full with water. Put the cap on. The bottom of the bottle is full of water. Turn it upside down. The bottom of the bottle is now full of air.
Same concept here. Total system capacity is fixed. When you fill up the coolant the first time after draining it, there is air in the system trapped in various points in hoses and inside the engine block. When you start coolant moving through the system, that air gets pushed around, and the goal when bleeding is to ensure that all of that air gets moved to the coolant bottle, and not somewhere else in the engine block or cooling system. Raising the nose of the car helps to encourage air to go there and no where else. Making sure the coolant is hot and the heat is on full blast makes sure that the coolant is circulating through every part of the system, and not just some of it. When air pockets get pushed to the coolant bottle, the 'coolant level' drops, because there is coolant in the rest of the system where there used to be air.
A fully bled system will keep a pretty even coolant level in the bottle while driving.
Thanks, make lots of sense now, you helped me a lot for various issues, Now my 8 drives and cools better. thanks a milliion
I found this radiator , total aluminium 42mm, 2 Row
Following are the specs
all aluminum radiator
Item Width: 36 cm
Material Type: 100% aluminum
Item Height: 10 cm
Car Maker: Mazda
Year: 2014
External Testing Certification: ROHS
Item Type: Cooling System
Item Length: 60 cm
No. of Cylinders: 4 Cylinder
Item Weight:
5 kg
My Question is that will this radiator fit to my original OEM specs radiator or should i have to do little changes to fan mounts and pipes?
ALso if someone here could help me on a very little missing on 1000rpm with no CEL. I have checked plugs, coils and cables, they are all giving good current. Also changed engine mounts.
But when i drive the car, it is perfect but when i stop and rpm is idle at 1000k or 900k, then every 3 to 5 seconds, my car vibrates a little and it shows like missing, to prove it, i started the car, made it idle and then got back to my car to the exhaust cylinders , one was OKay and its sound was continuous but the other one ( left) gives a little ( BHUCK) noise after 4 to 5 seconds.
Is it something else , maybe fuel injectors or something? Please remember all ignition system working fine, i am not feeling loss of power and car is not idling rough... thanks
Last edited by RX8 pearl red; 03-01-2015 at 08:52 AM.
Maybe I am missing something here? All of the mods mentioned are to the fans. Which is fine for idle, low speed travel or traffic situations. Once the car is up to speed the airflow into the radiator and condenser will take place of the fans. Why would they need to operate 100% of the time. A dual core radiator and insuring the foam is in place would seem more worthwhile mods along with an accurate temperature gauge. Not putting a large load on the engine (going too fast) will also go a long way in keeping coolant temps down as well.
@ RX8: If you have something happening that only comes out one tail pipe, it could be something in the muffler. There is a common pipe back to the muffler. I cannot remember if you cleaned the MAF sensor or not, or the ESS. Those are good things to keep clean.
@ Kevin: One issue with cooling is the very high set point for the fans to come on. It is over 200 degrees. If you want to keep things cooler at anything other than highway speeds, they need to come on sooner. And, when they come one, if the foam is not there, they really do not help.
The fans on low mod runs them on low 100% of the time. Yes, but that is a cheap and easy mod, and, with the foam, solves the problem. I ran that way until I had the ability to edit the ECU and turn them on sooner. The thermostat kits will do that as well.
Best scenario for street, the fans come on when the thermostat opens. And they work as intended (foam). For track, I have this, and a remedy pump because the series 1 OEM pump starts to cavitate after 7,000 RPM. IMHO that is enough for anything without Forced Induction.
Now, my experience stops at 100F or about 15 degrees cooler F. But, I can sit in a parking lot, in the summer, with the AC on, over 98 degrees, have it cold (70) in the car and the engine temp is under 190. (note ac makes fans come on high). But, I have the foam.
04 Green : I have already cleaned the MAF, but will do ESS tomorrow. can you please tell me where the ESS and the muffler pipe is exactly located please and what to do with the muffler if it is causing the problem?
@ RX8: If you have something happening that only comes out one tail pipe, it could be something in the muffler. There is a common pipe back to the muffler. I cannot remember if you cleaned the MAF sensor or not, or the ESS. Those are good things to keep clean.
@ Kevin: One issue with cooling is the very high set point for the fans to come on. It is over 200 degrees. If you want to keep things cooler at anything other than highway speeds, they need to come on sooner. And, when they come one, if the foam is not there, they really do not help.
The fans on low mod runs them on low 100% of the time. Yes, but that is a cheap and easy mod, and, with the foam, solves the problem. I ran that way until I had the ability to edit the ECU and turn them on sooner. The thermostat kits will do that as well.
Best scenario for street, the fans come on when the thermostat opens. And they work as intended (foam). For track, I have this, and a remedy pump because the series 1 OEM pump starts to cavitate after 7,000 RPM. IMHO that is enough for anything without Forced Induction.
Now, my experience stops at 100F or about 15 degrees cooler F. But, I can sit in a parking lot, in the summer, with the AC on, over 98 degrees, have it cold (70) in the car and the engine temp is under 190. (note ac makes fans come on high). But, I have the foam.
I have not modified the ECU on my car and you are correct the fans kick on at about 207, it drops back to 199 and the process just repeats over and over again. I personally have no problem with that. This happens at idle or at low speeds. It has never overheated even with the A/C on. Now I will admit that it does not get it does not get 113 degrees here in Dallas either. 100 degree temps are not uncommon though. My point again though is at speed all that crap does not matter. The fans being on at 60 mph would not matter, the natural flow of air would be more than sufficient to keep the coolant from over heating. To my knowledge most cars are programmed to not use the fans at speed. Even older vehicles had a mechanism to eliminate this...remember the fan clutch? At any rate I guess it does not hurt anything, I just don't see the point. Turning the on earlier I can appreciate that. Keeping them all the time seems pointless.
Maybe I am missing something here? All of the mods mentioned are to the fans. Which is fine for idle, low speed travel or traffic situations. Once the car is up to speed the airflow into the radiator and condenser will take place of the fans. Why would they need to operate 100% of the time. A dual core radiator and insuring the foam is in place would seem more worthwhile mods along with an accurate temperature gauge. Not putting a large load on the engine (going too fast) will also go a long way in keeping coolant temps down as well.
Who is saying that fans will operate 100% of the time? The fan cooling kit will turn on the fans at 190 degree and and shuts them off at 180 degree and then from here the process repeat itself. The thing is that when fan run on factory settings i.e 207 degree, even small amount of overheating means damage to the engine has already been done, so to prevent this, we are using these mods and please REMEMBER, fans with this mod do not work 100% all the time, they work automatically but at lower temps.. thats the only difference.
" 04 Green" is trying to help keep your engine temps lower to avoid engine damage
Did you try sealing around the radiator? I live in the tropics and have the same problem. Car would run hot when idling or in slow moving traffic. I sealed around the radiator and now the temp is much lower. The AC improved by a ton too! You should seriously try sealing around the radiator. Highly recommended
When we talk about foam, that is the topic in the Congrats Thread. And yes, I agree 100%.
@ Kevin...
If you the fan kit, with a thermostat, yes. If not, a simple wire will get you fans on low. Soldering is recommended, but not required. In a hot location, like Florida, they run most of time anyway, when you are at speed, they are freewheeling and just happen to have power on them. They are not really working that hard. Kind of like this OEM, Fans on Low, Thermostatic Control, ECU mod in the order of sophistication.
Who is saying that fans will operate 100% of the time? The fan cooling kit will turn on the fans at 190 degree and and shuts them off at 180 degree and then from here the process repeat itself. The thing is that when fan run on factory settings i.e 207 degree, even small amount of overheating means damage to the engine has already been done, so to prevent this, we are using these mods and please REMEMBER, fans with this mod do not work 100% all the time, they work automatically but at lower temps.. thats the only difference.
" 04 Green" is trying to help keep your engine temps lower to avoid engine damage
Post#7 04Green made a comment about direct wiring the fans. This is what I have been referring to. It is pointless IMO. As far as the 207 degrees is concerned, the car is not overheating at 207. It is hotter than most are comfortable with which I have no problem with. Modifying the fans so they still cycle, but keep the coolant temperature lower is fine if that's the intended goal. I have read many posts over the years and no one has ever damaged an engine at 207 degrees. It will take in excess of 220 before it becomes a problem. I start to get nervous at about 220 and will do what ever is necessary to try and not exceed that temperature. Slow down, turn on the heat whatever it takes. I have seen 223 max since I have had my gauges installed and my car runs fine. Before I installed the gauges, I am not sure how hot the coolant got on a nice summer day. My bet it was probably flirting with the tipping point though.
04 Green : I have already cleaned the MAF, but will do ESS tomorrow. can you please tell me where the ESS and the muffler pipe is exactly located please and what to do with the muffler if it is causing the problem?
The easiest way to reach the E-Shaft Sensor without jacking up the car or taking off the front left wheel is under the hood.
02-25-2015, 04:14 PM
