Hello, stopping by for some help
03-02-2014, 04:21 PM
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Hello, stopping by for some help
What's up rotary guys! I'm fixing my buddies rx8 and ran into a problem and was wondering if someone could help me figure it out, thanks!
My buddies clutch master cylinder went out in his 06 rx8. I replaced the clutch master cylinder for him. While I was taking the master cylinder out, I noticed the clutch pedal bracket was broken at the spot welds. I took it out and re-welded it and clean it up. I reinstalled both the pedal bracket and master cylinder for the clutch. I then tried bleeding the system and I can't manage to get it to build any pressure. I have fluid coming out of the slave, but its not shooting out..it just kind of pours out of the bleeder on the slave. We have probably pumped it and held it about 10-20 times now..with 20 pump intervals.
My buddies clutch master cylinder went out in his 06 rx8. I replaced the clutch master cylinder for him. While I was taking the master cylinder out, I noticed the clutch pedal bracket was broken at the spot welds. I took it out and re-welded it and clean it up. I reinstalled both the pedal bracket and master cylinder for the clutch. I then tried bleeding the system and I can't manage to get it to build any pressure. I have fluid coming out of the slave, but its not shooting out..it just kind of pours out of the bleeder on the slave. We have probably pumped it and held it about 10-20 times now..with 20 pump intervals.
03-02-2014, 04:26 PM
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You won't build pressure with the bleed screw open, though I expect you are aware of this?
Normally when bleeding, you want to prevent any air from being pulled back in on the clutch up-stroke. Speed bleeders have a valve to prevent it from occuring, but another option is to attach a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple and run it up to the open hood and hang it there. You can pump the clutch and get the air out, and it will only be sucking back in fluid that is in the tube, rather than air. If you pump slow and wait after the downstroke before the upstroke, the air bubbles will have a chance to float up the tube to get away from being pulled back in and prolonging the process.
Chances are the master cylinder was actually fine and it was just the broken clutch pedal. The clutch pedal assembly is known for breaking, and there is a 8yr 100k warranty on it. You could have gotten a free one from the dealer, although it would have been just another break-prone assembly. Welding is is recommend anyway.
Normally when bleeding, you want to prevent any air from being pulled back in on the clutch up-stroke. Speed bleeders have a valve to prevent it from occuring, but another option is to attach a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple and run it up to the open hood and hang it there. You can pump the clutch and get the air out, and it will only be sucking back in fluid that is in the tube, rather than air. If you pump slow and wait after the downstroke before the upstroke, the air bubbles will have a chance to float up the tube to get away from being pulled back in and prolonging the process.
Chances are the master cylinder was actually fine and it was just the broken clutch pedal. The clutch pedal assembly is known for breaking, and there is a 8yr 100k warranty on it. You could have gotten a free one from the dealer, although it would have been just another break-prone assembly. Welding is is recommend anyway.
03-02-2014, 04:32 PM
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You won't build pressure with the bleed screw open, though I expect you are aware of this?
Normally when bleeding, you want to prevent any air from being pulled back in on the clutch up-stroke. Speed bleeders have a valve to prevent it from occuring, but another option is to attach a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple and run it up to the open hood and hang it there. You can pump the clutch and get the air out, and it will only be sucking back in fluid that is in the tube, rather than air. If you pump slow and wait after the downstroke before the upstroke, the air bubbles will have a chance to float up the tube to get away from being pulled back in and prolonging the process.
Chances are the master cylinder was actually fine and it was just the broken clutch pedal. The clutch pedal assembly is known for breaking, and there is a 8yr 100k warranty on it. You could have gotten a free one from the dealer, although it would have been just another break-prone assembly. Welding is is recommend anyway.
Normally when bleeding, you want to prevent any air from being pulled back in on the clutch up-stroke. Speed bleeders have a valve to prevent it from occuring, but another option is to attach a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple and run it up to the open hood and hang it there. You can pump the clutch and get the air out, and it will only be sucking back in fluid that is in the tube, rather than air. If you pump slow and wait after the downstroke before the upstroke, the air bubbles will have a chance to float up the tube to get away from being pulled back in and prolonging the process.
Chances are the master cylinder was actually fine and it was just the broken clutch pedal. The clutch pedal assembly is known for breaking, and there is a 8yr 100k warranty on it. You could have gotten a free one from the dealer, although it would have been just another break-prone assembly. Welding is is recommend anyway.
Yeah it's at 106k miles, and it was a pretty easy fix, I think I saw someone's thread on here were they welded it. Something I have already done on my rt4wd civic wagon clutch assembly. But anyways back to the no pressure, just run a tube up away from the bleeder correct?
03-02-2014, 04:37 PM
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Yes, when you open the bleeder, the fluid will slowly ooze out. There isn't any pressure unless the clutch pedal is down, regardless of whether or not the engine is running.
Yes, same concept with the tube and bottle. I actually use about 10ft of tubing, so I can use it to replace the entire contents of any one brake line into the same tube without mixing, etc... The clutch line is short, so I just run it up through the hood anchor loop at top center and let the rest hang.
Yes, same concept with the tube and bottle. I actually use about 10ft of tubing, so I can use it to replace the entire contents of any one brake line into the same tube without mixing, etc... The clutch line is short, so I just run it up through the hood anchor loop at top center and let the rest hang.
03-02-2014, 04:42 PM
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Yes, when you open the bleeder, the fluid will slowly ooze out. There isn't any pressure unless the clutch pedal is down, regardless of whether or not the engine is running.
Yes, same concept with the tube and bottle. I actually use about 10ft of tubing, so I can use it to replace the entire contents of any one brake line into the same tube without mixing, etc... The clutch line is short, so I just run it up through the hood anchor loop at top center and let the rest hang.
Yes, same concept with the tube and bottle. I actually use about 10ft of tubing, so I can use it to replace the entire contents of any one brake line into the same tube without mixing, etc... The clutch line is short, so I just run it up through the hood anchor loop at top center and let the rest hang.
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