AceCombat

Hi Everyone,

Good day to you,

This is Ace, and I'm from Malaysia, a hot country with not much of RX8 on the road.

I recently just revived an abandoned RX8 6 speeds manual, that is fitted with a GReddy BOT kit, the car is running well with the donor engine running mileage of 29000KM only (Donor engine 2007, 6-port, I hope mileage clock is not adjusted, but based on the condition, seems legit)

Mod list:
13B 6 port 2007 donor engine
GReddy BOT Kit w/ E-Manage Blue
GReddy Type RS BOV
Blox 42mm radiator
Mazmart Thermostat
Penrite coolant
Fan adjusted to kick by 82c
R-Magic muffler

Here's the thing,
When I am driving it on the highway (Ambient temperature of 32c), cruising all the way with no boost and featherlike throttle holding the speed of 120KM/H, I noticed my Pivot water temperature gauge and my OBD reader gauge were both reporting 106c to 110c, I was panic and didn't know what to do but to slow down the speed a little to 100KM/H to let it go down to somewhere around 100c++, the oil temperature gauge reported close to 95c.

That was the first day I touched down the car from the workshop of my friend.
And I really don't know what to do.

May I know what is the issue of it?

Beside the water temperature, we also didn't manage to get a good number on the dyno tuning and the graph looks extremely weird, we clocked only 212hp on wheel and that was the best we could do.
I really need some expert to advise us what are we missing? Well the car really had a lot of backfire (big pop, maybe with fire, I'm not sure).

Attached the engine bay and dyno graph.

Thanks
Ace
Malaysia

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The e-manage is '04 technology that didn't work properly even then. You would be better served with a flash tuning alternative or a plug and play ECU like the Adaptronic. The AFR appears very lean through most of the run. The stock car runs richer than that...so it makes me wonder if therw is much fuel addition by the e-manage at all.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the Emanage Blue is not a good choice of piggyback. Any piggyback on this car is not a good choice, you can tune the stock ECU directly with a Cobb or MazdaEdit (and someone who knows what they're doing).

For the overheating: does the car still have the plastic undertray? You really really really need that for effective cooling at speed.

Also I'd suggest routing your intake forward into the bumper. Right now you have a hot air intake.

How old are the ignition coils? The jagged uneven pattern toward the end of the rev range looks like failing ignition, but it just be poor tuning by the Emanage too.

AceCombat

Yeah I do understand that the E-Manage might have a big limitation on the car, however, in Malaysia here I don't have much choices, and I believe not much tuner knows about rotary engine as well.

I think I still have the undertray, but may you show me how does it looks like?
Initially I want to route that intake hose but my tuner told me I might have risk of getting rain water in the air filter.
The ignition coils, as per my tuner he told me he had replaced a few sets but it gives same result on the dyno, however, whether it is true or not I don't know, but I chose to believe that he has done this.

AceCombat

Another thing is, I really dont understand why the power dropped after 6k RPM and slowly climb up, but drop again after that.....

CaymanRotary

Every time that happened to me it was a solenoid issue or SSV issue. You should remove the 3 solenoids under the UIM and have them tested.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Post a picture looking through the bottom opening of your bumper and at your radiator. Pretty sure we will be able to spot your cooling issue if you do this.

As far as the power thing goes ..... you really need someone that knows what they are doing to troubleshoot it then tune it. No-one here is going to be able to solve that satisfactorily by just making suggestions to you . Although I'll give it a shot seeing as I'm bored.
E-manage blue is no good ...full stop. The Adaptronics stand alone may be your best bet because it works the same way that most tuning solutions do so there will be people there familiar with that.
Having said that ............
1/As Dan said ...afrs are way too lean ...as in you will blow the engine lean, if you run it like that.
2/first bump in dyno is apv valve ...this is normal. Good idea to adjust this to come on about 100rpm earlier to minimise the bump.
3/Second bump is VDI valve ... again normal . I prefer to disable this valve because it serves no useful purpose on a turbo engine (other than rob power).
4/Spoolup is terrible . Possibly due to the WG arm being adjusted so WG is slightly open rather than having some tension on it.
5/You should be seeing 230-240whp at this boost level . Why it's so low could be due to any number of things ... But I would start with the lean afr,checking actual timing,checking for boost leaks,checking vacuum lines are correctly routed,checking ssv operation,check coils with hei coil tester.