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Old 11-30-2014, 02:29 PM
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fuel pump/filter

Ive been having some power loss and stalling issues and I suspect my fuel pump needs replacing. I have a 2004 8 with about 120,000 miles. I changed my spark plugs, wires, and coils. I also cleaned sensors and checked the fuses. I can hear my fuel pump cut on when the ignition is in the ON position. I want to be sure my pump is the problem before I put the money and effort into replacing it. I wanted to check the fuel filter, but am not sure where it is located/how to get to it. Could anyone lend me a hand here?
Old 11-30-2014, 05:11 PM
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If your pump has 120,000 miles on it, it is WAY past the failing point. Series 1 pumps can fail as early as 50,000 miles (mine failed at 52,000 miles) and rarely last past 80,000 miles. What is your engine's overall condition ? It is overdue for a compression test if you have 120,000 miles on the original engine. Stalling and power loss can be a compression issue and/or a clogged cat.

BTW the fuel filter is located with the pump, inside the fuel tank. Look up the threads on stalling and power loss for advice on other things to check.

Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-30-2014 at 05:17 PM.
Old 11-30-2014, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gwilliams6
If your pump has 120,000 miles on it, it is WAY past the failing point. Series 1 pumps can fail as early as 50,000 miles (mine failed at 52,000 miles) and rarely last past 80,000 miles. What is your engine's overall condition ? It is overdue for a compression test if you have 120,000 miles on the original engine. Stalling and power loss can be a compression issue and/or a clogged cat.

BTW the fuel filter is located with the pump, inside the fuel tank. Look up the threads on stalling and power loss for advice on other things to check.
I am not positive if the fuel pump on it is the original, but I believe it is, so I suppose even if it is not the issue, it should be replaced anyways. I'd say the overall engine condition is pretty good. Sounds and runs great (aside from longer trips when it stalls/looses power) and havent had any other problems out of it. When I purchase it, the dealer had a compression test done on it and I've had it a couple months shy of a year. A clogged cat is a good avenue to check. Hadn't really thought of that since it wasn't automatic and doesn't smell. I've done searches and searches on it (which isnt so easy on here lol) and checked most things I've found with no avail. Thank you for your suggestion and for telling me about the filter. I appreciate it!

Last edited by ponzo123; 11-30-2014 at 06:00 PM.
Old 12-01-2014, 12:28 AM
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Do you have the six numbers of a proper rotary engine compression test, three faces per rotor; and the cranking rpm and the altitude relative to sealevel. All this info is necessary to know the true health of your engine.

A compression test results number scale is on the second page of this link:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

Check your numbers to see if your engine is truly good. We can help you with possible solutions after you get those numbers.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:41 AM
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I still don't know how you know much first hand info about compression related problems gwilliams, haven't you had 7 rotaries with 100k+ and zero engine failures?

Just go ahead and replace the fuel pump, my original didn't fail until recently at 115k miles. There is a DIY on removing and cleaning the filter, but there's so little flow through it that any amount of foreign material couldn't really clog it to the point that it becomes a restriction. You'll have to do a little reading if you're not replacing it with an OEM pump, but it's really simple. Thus far I'm quite happy with the DW200 I installed.
Old 12-01-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Legot
I still don't know how you know much first hand info about compression related problems gwilliams, haven't you had 7 rotaries with 100k+ and zero engine failures?

Just go ahead and replace the fuel pump, my original didn't fail until recently at 115k miles. There is a DIY on removing and cleaning the filter, but there's so little flow through it that any amount of foreign material couldn't really clog it to the point that it becomes a restriction. You'll have to do a little reading if you're not replacing it with an OEM pump, but it's really simple. Thus far I'm quite happy with the DW200 I installed.
Hi Legot, good advice to the OP about replacing his fuel pump. I also replaced mine with a DW 200 from BHR, and your experience is NOT the norm, many Series 1 pumps are known to rarely last beyond 80,000 miles at best. In my case I take many long distance trips where the pump is stressed to run at high output for many hours at a time in hot southern climates. My pump wore out at 52,000 miles. it has been known to happen. Many moderators and others with years of experience will agree on that.

As far as my knowledge about rotary compression problems, in 41 years I have seen plenty of compression issues with fellow RX7 club and RX8 club members, and have seen countless rotary engines torn down and rebuilt by my fellow rotary racers and at shops of our rotary wrenches. I have helped as a wrench on a number of these rebuilds over the decades.

At our most recent Philly area meet we had a rotary compression tester check some of our newest members' recently purchased used high mileage RX8s. They were having typical running issues and some did check out as having failing numbers indicating low compression. We are helping them secure reliable rebuild or reman solutions, upgrading ignitions, cats etc.

And yes you are correct ,I may also NOT be the norm as I have never had a rotary engine failure in over a million rotary miles driven with my seven rotary cars: One RX3; two RX4s (coupe and sedan); all three generations of RX7 (gen one RX7 w/12A engine. later race modified with 13B radically race ported and turbocharged engine built by Racing Beat, 400 hp, not street legal); Gen 2 RX7 Turbo II w/ slight mods; Gen 3 FD twin turbo RX7 w/ slight mods; and 40th Anniversary Edition RX8 w/ slight mods.

Last edited by gwilliams6; 12-01-2014 at 03:05 PM.
Old 12-01-2014, 06:57 PM
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I did my pump, at the track, with a complete assembly from Advance Auto (the ones in Georgia seem good, mine here sucks).

I kept the original assembly to rebuild with a high performance pump when the cheap one failed. Still waiting for it to fail.

The complete unit was easy to do. Just make sure there is less than half a tank of gas in car, or things get really messy really really fast. The special tool for the ring really helps too.
Old 12-11-2014, 01:26 PM
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So, i replaced the fuel pump over the weekend. It wasnt difficult at all (thanks to all the helpful people on the internet , however the problem isnt gone. I only loose power when driving longer distances and it doesnt happen everytime, but once I can feel the power loss, I know that it is likely to stall if I continue to drive. I couldnt find my paperwork from the compression test the dealer had done on it before I bought the car, but was able to call the dealer and have him fax it to me. The test was performed on Feburary 26th of this year and all 6 numbers were within 7.2-7.8 at 250RPM, which I believe is pretty decent for a 10 year old car, with 120,000+ miles on it. I know compression loss could still be an issue as it has been nearly a year, and who knows what could happen in a year. I take good care of her, frequent oil changes and fluid checks, redline her daily, or atleast everyday I drive her. Premium gas.I dont have any problems starting (even when it stalls) and I have never experienced flooding. No lights on the dash. Put a new battery and altenator in it right after purchase. I have changed my spark plugs, wires, and coils...and the fuel pump now. Ive cleaned my MAF and ESS sensors. There is no smell or obvious shaking. I checked air flow when I replaced the plugs and coils (about 5 month ago), but plan on doing a better, in depth job checking that this weekend. My RPMS do jump slightly (about half a RPM) when im in gear, but have the clutch in.
Of course I dont want it to be compression issue, but if it is, I will take things from there and see what I can do. I know it wouldnt hurt to get another test done, but around the holidays, its tough to put $200+ into having the test done again, then more if it is failing or more to find the problem if it isnt. I am not afraid of the car and testing any possibilities. I would rather do it myself then to pay someone to do it and not be sure if its done correctly, so 'take it to a mechanic' is not what I am looking for. Just maybe some suggestions or ideas to help. Thanks in advance!

Last edited by ponzo123; 12-11-2014 at 02:30 PM.
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