g7pdp

Parked when warm not fully hot. Not driven several weeks so battery flat. Attempted jump start but no joy. Charged battery. Followed de-flood process without fuel pump relay or fuel fuse and throttle on floor with mechanic's booster battery. No joy after several retries. Checked all fuses ok, cleaned contacts then refitted various relays. Later tried de-flood on original battery without fuel pump fuse, fuel relay and with throttle to the floor. Cranked but no restart despite about 10 retries so original battery now flat again. Am miles away from home, far from any dealers. Plan to get battery charged again and retry but wonder is there something I am missing? Why does de-flood not work? Do I just keep on going? Did not try physical disconnect of fuel pump under rear seat but reasoned same effect as previous removal of fuel relay or fuse. I have read everything I can here. Hoping to avoid getting it towed to expensive dealers here. Any advice most welcome. Thanks.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

You are probably deflooding it, and then flooding it again immediately.

You should really try just one method at a time, though, and not mixing up several. Pulling the fuel pump fuse and holding the gas pedal to the floor both accomplish the exact same thing, for example. Most deflooding problems I've seen over the years is from people mixing and matching pieces of methods, which makes everything unsuccessful.

The other piece you are missing is the "hook up the battery to another running car with jumper cables". If the problem that caused the flood in the first place (like a dead battery) isn't fixed (because you drained the new one too), it's just going to flood again when you try to start. If it flooded for another reason, and that hasn't been fixed, it's going to keep re-flooding as well.

housze_rulez

iTrader: (1)

If you have a MT, the easiest way to deflood is to pop the clutch.

m67allen

I had a new clutch put in then the garage flooded it and couldn't get it started. They tried all kinds of methods. I had it towed back to my house and lucky I live on a hill. I tried the pull fuse for fuel method, and it almost started. So I rolled it down the hill. As soon as I got to 20 MPH I popped the clutch in 2nd gear, a little growl then I gave it gas ...a puff of smoke and I was off and running.
2007 6 speed MT 50k miles

04Green

iTrader: (1)

I am with RIWWP. Stick with one methods, it will be a lot less stressful on you. If you were down where I am, I would pull the fuel pump fuse, attach to a running car, and crank in 10 second increments until you hear it start to fire. I would give up on that approach and consider it cleared after 10 tries if it does not fire. I would give the starter 10 seconds to cool between tires. I would then re-install the fuse, let the other car run for a bit to be sure my battery was up (several minutes) or attach a fresh booster pack. I would then start the car with my foot off the gas, letting the computer figure things out. It will likely start with a very high idle, that is fine. It is re-learning the fuel trims for idle (long time dead battery likely reset ECU). Let it run for 10 minutes. If this does not work, repeat but with leading plugs pulled (good time to look at plugs). If that does not work, and you have not changed the coils yourself in the past 20,000 miles, change at least the leading coils with whatever you can get.

share your location, someone may be able to help.

Best I got.

frenchnz

Having has a similar experience I would suggest to others if the initial treatments fails to start the car and you get to the stage of removing spark plugs then at this point add a few mL of engine oil into the engine via the bottom two spark plug holes. This restores the seal on the rotor leading to compression and the car is more likely to start. Repeated deflooding procedures wash out the oil that is required for the apex seals to function.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

++ ^^ I forgot that. What he said!!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The best way with a MT car is still to tow it

They will start even with zero compression on one rotor ;-)

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If tow starting it is an option, then yes, it's a pretty good one. I avoid advocating it though since not everyone has access to another car, another driver, and something to link between the cars. Also, not everyone has the awareness and common sense to avoid wrecking one or both cars while trying.

Alternatively, the factory method is REALLY easy, doesn't require any tools, any 3rd party, or any complicated procedure.

So if that isn't working for them, then either A) they probably don't have the capacity to safely tow start a vehicle, or B) they have something else that has failed significantly, and they should really solve that instead of trying to start the car.