Compression Test Procedure
Compression Test Procedure
So I'm talking to someone about a car and he says "I had all the plugs disconnected and was cranking with the compression tester going from each leading and each trailing home" which doesn't sound right to me. If he had all plugs out, it would read abnormally high, right? Pretty sure this is a no go car. It's got some issues with stalling as well. I think I'm just looking to have someone smack some sense into me. Lol.
You need to remove 1 plug per rotor and put the tester in the open plug. Doesn't matter which one really...
It will possibly crank a bit faster if the other rotor plug is removed.... but that isn't a bad thing and is corrected for in the final reault
It will possibly crank a bit faster if the other rotor plug is removed.... but that isn't a bad thing and is corrected for in the final reault
Thanks, I thought that's how it was supposed to be run. His numbers he gave me were in PSI and he didn't know what RPM. 105, 98, 92, 101, 100, 98. Looking at the chart in the Newbie area, those are kind of borderline.
You need to make sure the engine was at normal operating temperature when the compression test was performed. Doing a compression test on a cold engine will give you higher numbers that will not correlate to the numbers st normal operating temperature.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
saskloppers
Series I Trouble Shooting
5
Jun 12, 2013 01:38 PM



