Check Engine Light. No codes.
#51
Short term fuel trim is high which might be a problem. I don't know the formula for air lb to g/sec so I'm not sure about your maf. The engine load is very high. It should do down in the 20's at idle. Your in the upper 30's. Thats a real good indication of bad compression.
If your maf is off due to a vac leak it would throw off calc load. Whats your manifold vacuum?
If your maf is off due to a vac leak it would throw off calc load. Whats your manifold vacuum?
Also, what do you mean by whats my manifold vacuum?
#53
Driving my unreliable rx8
Lol ask your dad to check the engine vacuum. It should be 7-8 psi min or 14-16" hg.
Also i didn't realize the outside temp is 52. There is definitely a cooling system problem. I saw 210 at one point in the video. 220+ is generally considered time for your engine to die.
The radiator and fans need to be checked really well since the first engine failed(probably from overheating).
Also i didn't realize the outside temp is 52. There is definitely a cooling system problem. I saw 210 at one point in the video. 220+ is generally considered time for your engine to die.
The radiator and fans need to be checked really well since the first engine failed(probably from overheating).
Last edited by logalinipoo; 11-15-2014 at 07:17 PM.
#54
it seems to have an adequate amount of coolant in the reservoir, not sure why the engine is so hot. this seems to be problem after problem showing up.
#56
Lol ask your dad to check the engine vacuum. It should be 7-8 psi min or 14-16" hg.
Also i didn't realize the outside temp is 52. There is definitely a cooling system problem. I saw 210 at one point in the video. 220+ is generally considered time for your engine to die.
The radiator and fans need to be checked really well since the first engine failed(probably from overheating).
Also i didn't realize the outside temp is 52. There is definitely a cooling system problem. I saw 210 at one point in the video. 220+ is generally considered time for your engine to die.
The radiator and fans need to be checked really well since the first engine failed(probably from overheating).
#57
Yes, fans do come on like they should. and no bubbles, only some condensation at the top of the bottle.
#59
#60
Driving my unreliable rx8
It wasent reving but the idle was hunting from 750 to 1000+ i saw. That could be it learning fuel trims and a vac leak could contribute to both of them.
#61
if left for 10 minutes running it will maintain a steady 800-830 RPM. I recorded this right after plugging in the battery and resetting everything. The engine had only been running for about a few minutes
#62
Registered
iTrader: (1)
After you pull the battery and turn on the car but NOT try to start it, will the CEL be on right away?
#63
That might explain the high STFT. You may want to record a new video once it has learned to idle. About the CEL, I noticed the tool reports the MIL status is OFF. Which it obviously isn't.
After you pull the battery and turn on the car but NOT try to start it, will the CEL be on right away?
After you pull the battery and turn on the car but NOT try to start it, will the CEL be on right away?
EDIT: could this be an ECU issue? why would MIL read off on the scanner but show up on the dash? blown fuse? i really really really doubt its low compression. vacuum leak maybe. which i was thinking about testing tomorrow once the car gets a steady idle and using starter fluid to test EVERYTHING.
I was thinking of towing my car to MAZDA monday and having them flash the ECU. would they charge for this? i live in NC, USA
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 08:24 PM.
#65
Registered
iTrader: (1)
The thing is, your ECU isn't doing anything unusual. If it was crazy, it wouldn't hold idle. The CEL is coming on for a reason after it detects some unusual readings. The fact that it's 15-20 seconds after starting means it's not 02 sensors or cat efficiency -- those aren't warm yet. It's not a misfire, that would flash. Knock? Does the engine react in any way when the CEL comes on? Throttle position sensor? That would be one candidate as 15-20 seconds in it should be coming down from initial high idle. In fact a bit earlier than that.
Mazda wouldn't just flash the ECU for fun, but they will start with a diagnostic, which includes getting a conclusive read on that CEL. If Mazda can't get a code, I'll agree with you that the ECU is bonkers. Mazda will also be able to do a proper compression test so we can either cross that off the list or stop wasting our time.
By my count, the following issues may exist, in order from most to least likely, I suggest we go in order of elimination
- thermostat issue or occlusion of the cooling system.
- at least one vacuum (after the throttle plate) or unmetered air (after the MAF) leak.
- low compression (remember this engine ran with non-rotary plugs at one point, which is not amazing), possibly with blown coolant seal (hence overheat and hard cold starts).
- some kind of sensor or electronic issue which we can't diagnose because the ECU doesn't want to give up the code. We could be chasing this one forever, you need a professional on site.
- the ECU is partially crazy where it can still run the engine fine but can't talk to the transmission or some other thing. This is ridiculously unlikely.
- this is actually a 6-port engine and nobody has noticed
Mazda wouldn't just flash the ECU for fun, but they will start with a diagnostic, which includes getting a conclusive read on that CEL. If Mazda can't get a code, I'll agree with you that the ECU is bonkers. Mazda will also be able to do a proper compression test so we can either cross that off the list or stop wasting our time.
By my count, the following issues may exist, in order from most to least likely, I suggest we go in order of elimination
- thermostat issue or occlusion of the cooling system.
- at least one vacuum (after the throttle plate) or unmetered air (after the MAF) leak.
- low compression (remember this engine ran with non-rotary plugs at one point, which is not amazing), possibly with blown coolant seal (hence overheat and hard cold starts).
- some kind of sensor or electronic issue which we can't diagnose because the ECU doesn't want to give up the code. We could be chasing this one forever, you need a professional on site.
- the ECU is partially crazy where it can still run the engine fine but can't talk to the transmission or some other thing. This is ridiculously unlikely.
- this is actually a 6-port engine and nobody has noticed
Last edited by Loki; 11-15-2014 at 09:00 PM.
#66
The thing is, your ECU isn't doing anything unusual. If it was crazy, it wouldn't hold idle. The CEL is coming on for a reason after it detects some unusual readings. The fact that it's 15-20 seconds after starting means it's not 02 sensors or cat efficiency -- those aren't warm yet. It's not a misfire, that would flash. Knock? Does the engine react in any way when the CEL comes on? Throttle position sensor? That would be one candidate as 15-20 seconds in it should be coming down from initial high idle. In fact a bit earlier than that.
Mazda wouldn't just flash the ECU for fun, but they will start with a diagnostic, which includes getting a conclusive read on that CEL. If Mazda can't get a code, I'll agree with you that the ECU is bonkers. Mazda will also be able to do a proper compression test so we can either cross that off the list or stop wasting our time.
By my count, the following issues may exist, in order from most to least likely, I suggest we go in order of elimination
- thermostat issue or occlusion of the cooling system.
- at least one vacuum (after the throttle plate) or unmetered air (after the MAF) leak.
- low compression (remember this engine ran with non-rotary plugs at one point, which is not amazing), possibly with blown coolant seal (hence overheat and hard cold starts).
- some kind of sensor or electronic issue which we can't diagnose because the ECU doesn't want to give up the code. We could be chasing this one forever, you need a professional on site.
- the ECU is partially crazy where it can still run the engine fine but can't talk to the transmission or some other thing. This is ridiculously unlikely.
- this is actually a 6-port engine and nobody has noticed
Mazda wouldn't just flash the ECU for fun, but they will start with a diagnostic, which includes getting a conclusive read on that CEL. If Mazda can't get a code, I'll agree with you that the ECU is bonkers. Mazda will also be able to do a proper compression test so we can either cross that off the list or stop wasting our time.
By my count, the following issues may exist, in order from most to least likely, I suggest we go in order of elimination
- thermostat issue or occlusion of the cooling system.
- at least one vacuum (after the throttle plate) or unmetered air (after the MAF) leak.
- low compression (remember this engine ran with non-rotary plugs at one point, which is not amazing), possibly with blown coolant seal (hence overheat and hard cold starts).
- some kind of sensor or electronic issue which we can't diagnose because the ECU doesn't want to give up the code. We could be chasing this one forever, you need a professional on site.
- the ECU is partially crazy where it can still run the engine fine but can't talk to the transmission or some other thing. This is ridiculously unlikely.
- this is actually a 6-port engine and nobody has noticed
I have a big feeling he ruined the new engine. What can mixing up the wires damage? I think he ran it like this for a good while
But I guess this sort of proves the compression is good.... Gahh.
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 10:11 PM.
#67
Registered
Or he killed the compression by running wrong plugs firing at the wrong times. Just a guess as I've never seen anything about wrong plugs and wrong fire order at the same time.
Edit
I'm still in belief most of your problems are comming from that CEL being on and no codes showing. Find your reason for that and you might find all your trouble.
Edit
I'm still in belief most of your problems are comming from that CEL being on and no codes showing. Find your reason for that and you might find all your trouble.
Last edited by niteshade247; 11-15-2014 at 10:47 PM.
#68
Or he killed the compression by running wrong plugs firing at the wrong times. Just a guess as I've never seen anything about wrong plugs and wrong fire order at the same time.
Edit
I'm still in belief most of your problems are comming from that CEL being on and no codes showing. Find your reason for that and you might find all your trouble.
Edit
I'm still in belief most of your problems are comming from that CEL being on and no codes showing. Find your reason for that and you might find all your trouble.
EDIT: Just a guess, could the crankshaft have gotten damaged from the wire mix up?
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 11:02 PM.
#69
Driving my unreliable rx8
I don't think the wires, caused a problem unless you were driving it hard with them crossed. I currently run a significant negative split with no problems under vacuum conditions.
#70
It was never ran. Only kept it in park but it was rev'd high with the spark plug wires mixed up.
#74