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Check Engine Light. No codes.

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Old 11-12-2014, 05:49 PM
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The stuff in the oil filter looked like the 3rd piece in the first picture but the size that I describes in my previous post. The gunk in the second a picture looked like what I found ONLY in the intake manifold, none of that made it to the oil filter.

1st: http://imgur.com/mlLXRPY
2nd: http://imgur.com/9xIWOTq
New engine: http://imgur.com/aKb2egi

Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-12-2014 at 05:59 PM.
Old 11-12-2014, 05:53 PM
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The chunks of crud might be from the original cooked engine, if they stayed in the oil coolers or piping.
Old 11-12-2014, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki
The chunks of crud might be from the original cooked engine, if they stayed in the oil coolers or piping.
Do you recommend cleaning the oil coolers and piping? Or buying new ones?
Old 11-12-2014, 06:05 PM
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Yea clean you oiling system too. Have you ever seen the OMP lines? A peace the size of rice would clog them nicely. As the last engine was cooked build up of small pieces in the system could clog lots of stuff.
Old 11-12-2014, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
Yea clean you oiling system too. Have you ever seen the OMP lines? A peace the size of rice would clog them nicely. As the last engine was cooked build up of small pieces in the system could clog lots of stuff.
I should've also mentioned that the new engine came with new its own EVERYTHING. It came with its own oil line, its own transmission, its own, starter, its own exhaust, it's own OMP. It was by no means just the core. It came with its own intake manifold, even its own throttle body. The only thing left dealing with the engine from the old car was the oil coolers and piping from the oil coolers. Could that crud have made it that far into the oil lines?
Old 11-12-2014, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SayDfuse
UPDATE!!!! Removed the air filter,the piece where the air filter sits, the accordion looking piece, maf, throttle body and intake manifold.

The air filter had oil in it and the accordion piece had puddles of oil sitting in the grooves. The maf seemed clean but I don't trust it to be working right. The throttle body was fairly dry and clean but the intake manifold.......

The intake manifold was FULL of oil. Not only oil but there was a certain part where there was lots of some sort of yellow grease/gunk that was really stuck to the metal. It was really hard to remove even with compressed air and gasoline. So I cleaned everything and removed the old oil which was really black. (Although the car has only been on for less than 2 hours since we put the oil in over the past weeks) and put in new oil and made sure not to over fill.

The oil filter also seemed to have some sort of burned carbon chunks in it which I took out with a tooth pick since the oil filter is still pretty new.

Now we just wait for all of the new parts to come in to test it out.
You also get oil in the intake from filling the oil without a funnel. The yellow grease/gunk was probably in the oil filler tube. it's common. You have to get the engine pretty hot to cook off condensation in the oil. They did redesign the Vacuum lines to help with it, but it's not a real concern.

There is probably a quart or more oil in the coolers and lines. my driveway has a good angle so. I park the front wheels in the garage and the back out. the back is probably a foot lower than the front. I get pretty much all of the oil out with every oil change. You probably should have cleaned the coolers and lines since the engine was overheated, but it's too late to worry about that now.
Old 11-12-2014, 07:28 PM
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Think about it if the gunk is showing it's self at the filter yes it could have contaminated the new engine.
Old 11-12-2014, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
Think about it if the gunk is showing it's self at the filter yes it could have contaminated the new engine.
So its this causing my long cold & hot starts?
Old 11-12-2014, 09:32 PM
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oil goes from the coolers to the oil filter/oil pressure regulator. the regulator will let stuff go back to the oil pan the filter should stop anything going into the engine. I would replace the oilfilter now then probably at 500 and 1000 miles.

From what I can tell the omp gets filtered oil. so I would not worry about it personally.

That probably has nothing to do with long starts. Did you premix for your first tank with the engine? you should have so the omp had time to fill the lines.
Old 11-12-2014, 09:35 PM
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Not likely a oil issue but the contamination can give you grater problems latter down the line. Starting problems are most likely only a few things. S1 starter, battery, coils, wires, plugs, and I only bring this up because you said your intake was full of crap your SSV could be stuck. I've seen one other post that had starting issues and turned out the SSV was stuck open. As for your CEL there has to be some reason it's on and that is most likely where you bigest problem is.
Old 11-12-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
Not likely a oil issue but the contamination can give you grater problems latter down the line. Starting problems are most likely only a few things. S1 starter, battery, coils, wires, plugs, and I only bring this up because you said your intake was full of crap your SSV could be stuck. I've seen one other post that had starting issues and turned out the SSV was stuck open. As for your CEL there has to be some reason it's on and that is most likely where you bigest problem is.
I have the updated starter (N3Z2) 280+ revs per minute on crank. Battery is good. New ignition system coming in the mail and the SSV valve moves freely so it isn't stuck. To my surprise, the SSV was completely clean of any oil or grease and only had very very thin traces of carbon build up. Barely visible at all.

I'm thinking maybe the engine was chocking since the gunk/grease was blocking much of the intake manifold. (Just thinking out loud) or maybe the maf sensor is gone since so much oil landed on it. And there's no doubt the coils were shot coming from an overheated engine.

All the parts should be here tomorrow. I'll update you guys and I'll update on the check engine light , ill see if I can trace it down or make the code appear at all.
Old 11-12-2014, 09:56 PM
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You should be able to clean the MAF off pretty easily with MAF cleaner. Another thought: do you have the intake screens before the MAF? With a stock intake there are supposed to be 2 wire screen grids in the airbox after the filter but before the MAF to straighten airflow.
Old 11-12-2014, 10:01 PM
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MAF wouldn't have anything to do with starting. I forgot to plug mine back up one day it started fine idled fine but when I hit 5k RPM she misfired like hell and had no power so I don't think the MAF would give you bad starts.
Old 11-12-2014, 10:57 PM
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Correct, the ECU operates in open loop when starting.
Old 11-12-2014, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
MAF wouldn't have anything to do with starting. I forgot to plug mine back up one day it started fine idled fine but when I hit 5k RPM she misfired like hell and had no power so I don't think the MAF would give you bad starts.
True, true. Well, I'm out of ideas :P

OP: going back to the CEL, it's not unheard of for a generic reader to not be able to read specific cars. BMW's have this problem, and a quick search around here shows that you're not the first RX8 either. It could be as simple as a non-compliant reader, because the CEL is not on just for the heck of it. There is a code stored, you're just not able to retrieve it for some reason. Take a trip to Autozone or Mazda and get a second opinion? It will probably give us all some insight on where to poke next.
Old 11-13-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
MAF wouldn't have anything to do with starting. I forgot to plug mine back up one day it started fine idled fine but when I hit 5k RPM she misfired like hell and had no power so I don't think the MAF would give you bad starts.
My dad tried to start it with the maf sensor unplugged a few days ago and it wouldn't start at all. It may have been unrelated , but that's a very strange coincidence.

Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-13-2014 at 09:47 AM.
Old 11-13-2014, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki
You should be able to clean the MAF off pretty easily with MAF cleaner. Another thought: do you have the intake screens before the MAF? With a stock intake there are supposed to be 2 wire screen grids in the airbox after the filter but before the MAF to straighten airflow.
Yes. They are both there. They were a bit oily and dusty but I cleaned them
Old 11-13-2014, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki
True, true. Well, I'm out of ideas :P

OP: going back to the CEL, it's not unheard of for a generic reader to not be able to read specific cars. BMW's have this problem, and a quick search around here shows that you're not the first RX8 either. It could be as simple as a non-compliant reader, because the CEL is not on just for the heck of it. There is a code stored, you're just not able to retrieve it for some reason. Take a trip to Autozone or Mazda and get a second opinion? It will probably give us all some insight on where to poke next.
I'll see if I can find another code reader to try. I can't really drive the car to town to autozone in this condition. Specially without tags. And the closest Mazda dealer is 30+ minutes away.
Old 11-13-2014, 10:20 AM
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Worst case, try to get an ELM327 USB reader and wOBD software if you have a laptop. Or a bluetooth OBD dongle and the Torque app for your phone. Really reaching here, but there are options.
Old 11-13-2014, 06:45 PM
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Wires and coils got here today. MAF sensor is still shipping. I will install tomorrow and test it
Old 11-15-2014, 05:01 PM
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Changed plugs, wires, coils, maf, throttle body, ESS sensor,and still the same thing keeps happening. Died on reverse and extremely hard to crank, couldn't even test drive it because it would die. And yes I reset everything

I'll upload a video.
Old 11-15-2014, 05:44 PM
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Well you could have got the shaft from your eBay emgine or there is something simple you missed and have over looked I do it every time I do a head job or major rebuild there is always a sensor I forget about.
Old 11-15-2014, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
Well you could have got the shaft from your eBay emgine or there is something simple you missed and have over looked I do it every time I do a head job or major rebuild there is always a sensor I forget about.
We have checked and checked and checked everything, the only thing we haven't checked is the fuel pump (we don't have the right adapter for it) after we check the fuel pressure, which should be around 60 PSI if I'm not mistaken, i think we'll just take it to the dealer and see if its an ECU problem.

here's me trying to crank it earlier today after all the changes. (i know i cranked longer than i should have, but i wanted to catch the flashing CEL for you to see)

Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 05:58 PM.
Old 11-15-2014, 06:14 PM
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Here's another one showing the live data from the code scanner once we go it running. had to jump start it though..
(I'd really appreciate it if someone like RWWIP could make sense of these readings since I'm a n00b at this)

NOTE: my foot was OFF the gas pedal until about 3:25


Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 06:19 PM.
Old 11-15-2014, 06:38 PM
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Short term fuel trim is high which might be a problem. I don't know the formula for air lb to g/sec so I'm not sure about your maf. The engine load is very high. It should do down in the 20's at idle. Your in the upper 30's. Thats a real good indication of bad compression.

If your maf is off due to a vac leak it would throw off calc load. Whats your manifold vacuum?


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