Check Engine Light. No codes.
#26
The stuff in the oil filter looked like the 3rd piece in the first picture but the size that I describes in my previous post. The gunk in the second a picture looked like what I found ONLY in the intake manifold, none of that made it to the oil filter.
1st: http://imgur.com/mlLXRPY
2nd: http://imgur.com/9xIWOTq
New engine: http://imgur.com/aKb2egi
1st: http://imgur.com/mlLXRPY
2nd: http://imgur.com/9xIWOTq
New engine: http://imgur.com/aKb2egi
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-12-2014 at 05:59 PM.
#28
#29
Registered
Yea clean you oiling system too. Have you ever seen the OMP lines? A peace the size of rice would clog them nicely. As the last engine was cooked build up of small pieces in the system could clog lots of stuff.
#30
I should've also mentioned that the new engine came with new its own EVERYTHING. It came with its own oil line, its own transmission, its own, starter, its own exhaust, it's own OMP. It was by no means just the core. It came with its own intake manifold, even its own throttle body. The only thing left dealing with the engine from the old car was the oil coolers and piping from the oil coolers. Could that crud have made it that far into the oil lines?
#31
Driving my unreliable rx8
UPDATE!!!! Removed the air filter,the piece where the air filter sits, the accordion looking piece, maf, throttle body and intake manifold.
The air filter had oil in it and the accordion piece had puddles of oil sitting in the grooves. The maf seemed clean but I don't trust it to be working right. The throttle body was fairly dry and clean but the intake manifold.......
The intake manifold was FULL of oil. Not only oil but there was a certain part where there was lots of some sort of yellow grease/gunk that was really stuck to the metal. It was really hard to remove even with compressed air and gasoline. So I cleaned everything and removed the old oil which was really black. (Although the car has only been on for less than 2 hours since we put the oil in over the past weeks) and put in new oil and made sure not to over fill.
The oil filter also seemed to have some sort of burned carbon chunks in it which I took out with a tooth pick since the oil filter is still pretty new.
Now we just wait for all of the new parts to come in to test it out.
The air filter had oil in it and the accordion piece had puddles of oil sitting in the grooves. The maf seemed clean but I don't trust it to be working right. The throttle body was fairly dry and clean but the intake manifold.......
The intake manifold was FULL of oil. Not only oil but there was a certain part where there was lots of some sort of yellow grease/gunk that was really stuck to the metal. It was really hard to remove even with compressed air and gasoline. So I cleaned everything and removed the old oil which was really black. (Although the car has only been on for less than 2 hours since we put the oil in over the past weeks) and put in new oil and made sure not to over fill.
The oil filter also seemed to have some sort of burned carbon chunks in it which I took out with a tooth pick since the oil filter is still pretty new.
Now we just wait for all of the new parts to come in to test it out.
There is probably a quart or more oil in the coolers and lines. my driveway has a good angle so. I park the front wheels in the garage and the back out. the back is probably a foot lower than the front. I get pretty much all of the oil out with every oil change. You probably should have cleaned the coolers and lines since the engine was overheated, but it's too late to worry about that now.
#33
#34
Driving my unreliable rx8
oil goes from the coolers to the oil filter/oil pressure regulator. the regulator will let stuff go back to the oil pan the filter should stop anything going into the engine. I would replace the oilfilter now then probably at 500 and 1000 miles.
From what I can tell the omp gets filtered oil. so I would not worry about it personally.
That probably has nothing to do with long starts. Did you premix for your first tank with the engine? you should have so the omp had time to fill the lines.
From what I can tell the omp gets filtered oil. so I would not worry about it personally.
That probably has nothing to do with long starts. Did you premix for your first tank with the engine? you should have so the omp had time to fill the lines.
#35
Registered
Not likely a oil issue but the contamination can give you grater problems latter down the line. Starting problems are most likely only a few things. S1 starter, battery, coils, wires, plugs, and I only bring this up because you said your intake was full of crap your SSV could be stuck. I've seen one other post that had starting issues and turned out the SSV was stuck open. As for your CEL there has to be some reason it's on and that is most likely where you bigest problem is.
#36
Not likely a oil issue but the contamination can give you grater problems latter down the line. Starting problems are most likely only a few things. S1 starter, battery, coils, wires, plugs, and I only bring this up because you said your intake was full of crap your SSV could be stuck. I've seen one other post that had starting issues and turned out the SSV was stuck open. As for your CEL there has to be some reason it's on and that is most likely where you bigest problem is.
I'm thinking maybe the engine was chocking since the gunk/grease was blocking much of the intake manifold. (Just thinking out loud) or maybe the maf sensor is gone since so much oil landed on it. And there's no doubt the coils were shot coming from an overheated engine.
All the parts should be here tomorrow. I'll update you guys and I'll update on the check engine light , ill see if I can trace it down or make the code appear at all.
#37
Registered
iTrader: (1)
You should be able to clean the MAF off pretty easily with MAF cleaner. Another thought: do you have the intake screens before the MAF? With a stock intake there are supposed to be 2 wire screen grids in the airbox after the filter but before the MAF to straighten airflow.
#38
Registered
MAF wouldn't have anything to do with starting. I forgot to plug mine back up one day it started fine idled fine but when I hit 5k RPM she misfired like hell and had no power so I don't think the MAF would give you bad starts.
#40
Registered
iTrader: (1)
OP: going back to the CEL, it's not unheard of for a generic reader to not be able to read specific cars. BMW's have this problem, and a quick search around here shows that you're not the first RX8 either. It could be as simple as a non-compliant reader, because the CEL is not on just for the heck of it. There is a code stored, you're just not able to retrieve it for some reason. Take a trip to Autozone or Mazda and get a second opinion? It will probably give us all some insight on where to poke next.
#41
My dad tried to start it with the maf sensor unplugged a few days ago and it wouldn't start at all. It may have been unrelated , but that's a very strange coincidence.
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-13-2014 at 09:47 AM.
#42
Yes. They are both there. They were a bit oily and dusty but I cleaned them
#43
True, true. Well, I'm out of ideas :P
OP: going back to the CEL, it's not unheard of for a generic reader to not be able to read specific cars. BMW's have this problem, and a quick search around here shows that you're not the first RX8 either. It could be as simple as a non-compliant reader, because the CEL is not on just for the heck of it. There is a code stored, you're just not able to retrieve it for some reason. Take a trip to Autozone or Mazda and get a second opinion? It will probably give us all some insight on where to poke next.
OP: going back to the CEL, it's not unheard of for a generic reader to not be able to read specific cars. BMW's have this problem, and a quick search around here shows that you're not the first RX8 either. It could be as simple as a non-compliant reader, because the CEL is not on just for the heck of it. There is a code stored, you're just not able to retrieve it for some reason. Take a trip to Autozone or Mazda and get a second opinion? It will probably give us all some insight on where to poke next.
#46
Changed plugs, wires, coils, maf, throttle body, ESS sensor,and still the same thing keeps happening. Died on reverse and extremely hard to crank, couldn't even test drive it because it would die. And yes I reset everything
I'll upload a video.
I'll upload a video.
#47
Registered
Well you could have got the shaft from your eBay emgine or there is something simple you missed and have over looked I do it every time I do a head job or major rebuild there is always a sensor I forget about.
#48
here's me trying to crank it earlier today after all the changes. (i know i cranked longer than i should have, but i wanted to catch the flashing CEL for you to see)
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 05:58 PM.
#49
Here's another one showing the live data from the code scanner once we go it running. had to jump start it though..
(I'd really appreciate it if someone like RWWIP could make sense of these readings since I'm a n00b at this)
NOTE: my foot was OFF the gas pedal until about 3:25
(I'd really appreciate it if someone like RWWIP could make sense of these readings since I'm a n00b at this)
NOTE: my foot was OFF the gas pedal until about 3:25
Last edited by SayDfuse; 11-15-2014 at 06:19 PM.
#50
Driving my unreliable rx8
Short term fuel trim is high which might be a problem. I don't know the formula for air lb to g/sec so I'm not sure about your maf. The engine load is very high. It should do down in the 20's at idle. Your in the upper 30's. Thats a real good indication of bad compression.
If your maf is off due to a vac leak it would throw off calc load. Whats your manifold vacuum?
If your maf is off due to a vac leak it would throw off calc load. Whats your manifold vacuum?