Back again.. This time it's the clutch pedal.
Back again.. This time it's the clutch pedal.
This is the second time the Pedal assembly Has Broken . We fixed it at home I installed it it works fine. That was last time, this time I bought the replacement assembly from black Halo racing. I have the pedal in the vehicle and as far as I know it's all hooked up right but it still does not work. I have a feeling I'm missing something simple I just can't for the life of me figure out what it is. Please help I was supposed to have this done and I have to be to work in about 6 hours :-)
The pushed that goes from the pedal into the firewall doesn't sit far enough into the rubber fitting (pardon my vocab) for the clutch to work as it should. I hope this makes sense . 😐
So what you're saying is the clutch pedal needs to be adjust to the correct position? That push rod has 2 nuts on it. Loosen them, adjust until the friction point is comfortably off the floor and tighten then up.
Okay I got the part back in the car I'm sure it's in there correctly. Or as sure as I can be. Connected the battery got In and when I turned the key I got nothing. And when I press in the clutch it doesn't come back out by itself . am I missing something??
Sounds more and more like the clutch switch. Although, if the clutch doesn't come back on its own, that would be your master or slave cylinder, or poor hydralic connection between the 2.
Btw, there is no picture in the post where you say "part highlighted in red"
Btw, there is no picture in the post where you say "part highlighted in red"
ok the part I was talking about was just the snapring that sits on the piston. I haven't had any hydraulic issues in the past.
It "feels" like the pin isnt connecting to the cylinder correctly. I don't know how else to describe the problem
It "feels" like the pin isnt connecting to the cylinder correctly. I don't know how else to describe the problem
Well I got it started . still don't know what is wrong. It's sounds awful. The car won't start unless I hold the clutch switch in.. And when I pushed in the clutch it died . then I lost pressure in the clutch pedal
Thanks Loki for the input. I'm looking into the master and slave cylinders. Pretty sure my throw out bearing is shot. But I'm very very concerned with the way the engine sounded it was awful
The engine is still the original. It's been well maintained. Oil change every 2500-300 miles. I was premixing with lucas 2 stroke. I've never heard it like that. It sounds more like a lawnmower than a rotary
Which 13B? You currently have a 13B-MSP.
I assume you mean the 13B-REW. There are several threads in the rotary engine swap section. It can be done, but it isn't trivial and costs upwards of $15K to do it right.
Judging by your descriptions and lack of working photos, I'm not convinced you have the clutch in proper working order. That could still be your problem, sounds and all.
I assume you mean the 13B-REW. There are several threads in the rotary engine swap section. It can be done, but it isn't trivial and costs upwards of $15K to do it right.
Judging by your descriptions and lack of working photos, I'm not convinced you have the clutch in proper working order. That could still be your problem, sounds and all.
All I did was take out the old broken assembly and put the switches onto the new one from black halo and put the new part in. I have taken the assembly out and put it back in three or four times because it wasn't in correctly. Where would that have caused this
It's a horrible pic. And a silly question.. The part that's highlighted is the snapring that keeps the piston from coming out of the firewall (which is bent by the way)I've since learned a little more about how the whole thing works
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