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Fresh wash and wax after finally getting old vinyl "bra" off of the car
Obligatory picture
Very clean pick up! A lot of the examples in my area are quite ratty since they just sit on driveways or curbs when the motors lose compression. Excited to follow this build.
Cleaning them will probably not accomplish anything.. I would just replace them.
How about, write out what problem behaviors you're observing under what conditions and we can look for clues in the logs.
Experiencing sudden power loss primarily at 4500-5200 rpms. Power drops and then resumes
Other issue is going on uphill climbs I can also experience other power loss but no definitive rpm...
Have driven the vehicle 3 times after redoing ground connections, low power p0576 error code is the only code currently showing.
Plan is to chase it to the fuse box and PCM plug and check both.
P0576 is cruise control... weird, but don't think it would affect your driving.
The log looks about the same, pretty rich most of the time at full throttle. Your MAF rate is the same ~163 g/ sec between 7k and 8k at full throttle, which is weird, it should increase with RPM. If I compare to one of my logs, across that range it should be 180-200 g/sec. Sure, some difference in data is expected due to calibration, but overall, something is choking your engine, or the MAF is misreading.
Since it happens in a specific range (although in this log it seems to happen higher than 5200 as well), I would first make sure the intake valves operate correctly, at least the ones you can reach, and then check if the catalytic converter is in good shape, not disintegrated inside.
Your idle seems too high too, it's idling at 1000 after warming up, with a MAF rate more consistent with 800 rpm. So there might be unmetered air in there, or again poor MAF reading. Was this car always a 6MT or did someone mess with a base model auto? Any modifications at all?
P0576 is cruise control... weird, but don't think it would affect your driving.
The log looks about the same, pretty rich most of the time at full throttle. Your MAF rate is the same ~163 g/ sec between 7k and 8k at full throttle, which is weird, it should increase with RPM. If I compare to one of my logs, across that range it should be 180-200 g/sec. Sure, some difference in data is expected due to calibration, but overall, something is choking your engine, or the MAF is misreading.
Since it happens in a specific range (although in this log it seems to happen higher than 5200 as well), I would first make sure the intake valves operate correctly, at least the ones you can reach, and then check if the catalytic converter is in good shape, not disintegrated inside.
Your idle seems too high too, it's idling at 1000 after warming up, with a MAF rate more consistent with 800 rpm. So there might be unmetered air in there, or again poor MAF reading. Was this car always a 6MT or did someone mess with a base model auto? Any modifications at all?
Whoops let me correct that, its p0562 low system voltage lol...
I will investigate leaks after MAF to double check. It has always been a 6MT. No modifications besides someone replaced coils and wires at some point with oreilly auto parts special.
It has been winter so really dragging my feet to get anything done.
Today I finally replaced my gen 1 starter that was in the car. It would maybe only get 350rpm on crank, extremely slow and probably honestly failing...
Anyways for those interested:
Vendor: DB Electrical
part #: N3R3-18-400
cost $130 plus tax
free shipping direct from site
And if anyone knows why I would experience a battery drain... I am thinking a stuck relay. I typically leave the ground off of the battery through the week and reconnect when I drive it on the weekends otherwise its dead after 2 days...
For battery drain, go through the fuse box, replacing each fuse with a multimeter one fuse at a time. Unplug battery, connect multimeter, connect battery, wait for current to settle. Disocnnect, repeat for next fuse. Typical healthy car total draw is 0.01 amp or less. You should find which circuit is pulling more using thise method.
For battery drain, go through the fuse box, replacing each fuse with a multimeter one fuse at a time. Unplug battery, connect multimeter, connect battery, wait for current to settle. Disocnnect, repeat for next fuse. Typical healthy car total draw is 0.01 amp or less. You should find which circuit is pulling more using thise method.
It's often the trunk light.
Thank you for the suggestion. Removed the trunk light, shortly after replacing the starter. Have been able to start the car 1+ weeks after, whereas before I would drain after 1-2 days. Sooo I think I will leave the trunk light removed, not super helpful light as it was.
