Do you mean the engine just doesn't crank? Don't have my headphones with me rn but I can take another listen later.

The noise from the second video is perfectly normal. It's from the throttle body since it's a DBW system. I get that too on my car.

 

 

If you are not even hearing any noise of cranking, I would check for the starting system first.

Have you checked the fuse yet?

Battery is likely not an issue, but I would double check the voltage and load test it at a auto parts store. Sometimes they come dead off the shelf.

After that, you wanna check the ground points and make sure they are not corroded.

Then check the starter and see if it's seized.

 

 

It's not the 120amp fuse. If that was blown nothing would work.

There are no codes for starter problems, but starters are known to die, so it sounds like it's that.

It's not your ignition system, you're not even getting to the point where it would try to ignite anything (although this is a good time to have ignition coils refreshed if they have unknown age or more than 25,000 miles).

I doubt anyone would be able to promise you they know the answer just from a video, but it sounds like that shop you talked to is on the right track.

 

 

The 4-port 4AT starter is different from the 6-speed starters, so you will have to either get the OEM one or having to look for an upgraded one dedicated for the 4-port 4AT. Someone posted one before, but I can't remember now.

As for coils, you could go with OEM Revision C coils, BHR coils or Sake Bomb Garage coils.

 

You can get a starter at RockAuto or similar. Automatic is not the same as manual. Coils, it depends. If you plane to keep the car a long time, check out BHR. It's expensive but doesn't really need to be replaced for a long time. If you don't plan the keep the car that long, OEM is fine, but get them from Napa op AutoZone, cheaper than dealer. OEM coils live about 25k miles before they become suspect.

But before you spend money, get a shop to confirm the diagnosis.
One thing I forgot, which could be a free fix, is your battery cables could be loose or corroded. A simple cleanup and tightening would fix thay. And I would still check all the fuses, if not already done.

 

Yeah, that's a common mistake.

When you tighten the battery clamps, you wanna make sure it's pushed all the way down before you tighten it. I learned that the hard way.

 

 

 

Does the engine spin? or does it seem to be stuck? Maybe try putting a ratchet on the bottom pulley to see if you can spin the engine over, If you're able to spin it over then check you're starter. The engine shouldn't be to hard to turn over

 

 

Sorry I don't but it's a good place to start.

 

 

You'll want a longer 1/2' drive ratchet or breaker bar with a 19mm socket on the end of it if you are going to try and rotate the engine by hand.

Jack the car up and ensure the connections at the starter are clean and secure. Ensure that the signal wire is in place as well. It seems to me that everything else appears to be ok. Battery cables, main fuse etc. Ensure the gear selector is firmly in park as well. Make sure you run it through its range and back to park and try again. It could be that its not in park all the way. You could also try starting it in neutral as well and see if that changes anything.

 

 

Your alternator and water pump are connected with the crank pulley with the belt.

The pulleys without a belt you are seeing are for the A/C compressor.

 

I've seen a few idlers lose the ribbing on the pulley on the Renesis. Usually either from a bad bearing on the idler or the compressor. In the last case I had, the compressor was locked up. Not having the a/c belt installed with a good idler will not cause a no crank issue. Diagnose that first and ensure that you have a good 12V signal to the starter when the ignition is switched to start. Once you get that sorted out, replace the drive belt that turns the water pump and alternator. Its an original belt and should be replaced.

 

 

Looking at the AC pulley, it looks like it hasn't been used for a while. These compressors should be run once in a while to keep it lubricated.

Also wonder why someone found the need to remove the belt? A/C clutch stuck?

Either way, follow the advice. Replace the serpentine belt and get the A/C belt. Should cost you $40~50 from the dealer. Look up the FSM to see what needs to be loosened to replace the belt, and get a finger tension gauge if you can to get the tension right on the belts. I have done the belts a while ago, just not 100% sure if S2 and S1 are the same.