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2005 Automatic RX-8 Engine Not Starting, Need Help!
When I go to start the engine nothing happens everything on the dash comes on. The radio works the AC works navigation, the battery is only a few months old but still had it charged up and still same result. There's is this sound it makes when turn the and try to crank the engine after everything on the dash comes on, it sounds like something is locked or something. It makes that sound once every time I try and start it. And when I went under the hood there is this sound coming from either the alternator or throttle body but I'm not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll upload some clips to show you what I mean.
Do you mean the engine just doesn't crank? Don't have my headphones with me rn but I can take another listen later.
The noise from the second video is perfectly normal. It's from the throttle body since it's a DBW system. I get that too on my car.
Yes the engine just doesn't crank. Do it mean I need a new motor? Ok I really appreciate man when you do get a chance. I'm new to the rotary engine troubleshooting steps.
If you are not even hearing any noise of cranking, I would check for the starting system first.
Have you checked the fuse yet?
Battery is likely not an issue, but I would double check the voltage and load test it at a auto parts store. Sometimes they come dead off the shelf.
After that, you wanna check the ground points and make sure they are not corroded.
Then check the starter and see if it's seized.
I ordered a new 120 fuse to see if it's that. I have another new battery but didn't try it yet to see if there's a difference. Yeah a shop that I called said it sounds like it could be the starter they rebuild and work with rotary engines. I've sent them the same two videos and waiting for them to reply to me to see in fact that it is indeed the starter or something else. If it is the starter or the ignition system or any other reason but the engine would a scan/diagnostic tool be able to show me codes. And if so which one do you recommend on me buying?.
It's not the 120amp fuse. If that was blown nothing would work.
There are no codes for starter problems, but starters are known to die, so it sounds like it's that.
It's not your ignition system, you're not even getting to the point where it would try to ignite anything (although this is a good time to have ignition coils refreshed if they have unknown age or more than 25,000 miles).
I doubt anyone would be able to promise you they know the answer just from a video, but it sounds like that shop you talked to is on the right track.
It's not the 120amp fuse. If that was blown nothing would work.
There are no codes for starter problems, but starters are known to die, so it sounds like it's that.
It's not your ignition system, you're not even getting to the point where it would try to ignite anything (although this is a good time to have ignition coils refreshed if they have unknown age or more than 25,000 miles).
I doubt anyone would be able to promise you they know the answer just from a video, but it sounds like that shop you talked to is on the right track.
I see thanks for clarifying a few things before I started spending money on stuff I don't need. New starter and ignition coils is where I'll start first. Should I go OEM or aftermarket? Or any good website you know of?
The 4-port 4AT starter is different from the 6-speed starters, so you will have to either get the OEM one or having to look for an upgraded one dedicated for the 4-port 4AT. Someone posted one before, but I can't remember now.
As for coils, you could go with OEM Revision C coils, BHR coils or Sake Bomb Garage coils.
You can get a starter at RockAuto or similar. Automatic is not the same as manual. Coils, it depends. If you plane to keep the car a long time, check out BHR. It's expensive but doesn't really need to be replaced for a long time. If you don't plan the keep the car that long, OEM is fine, but get them from Napa op AutoZone, cheaper than dealer. OEM coils live about 25k miles before they become suspect.
But before you spend money, get a shop to confirm the diagnosis.
One thing I forgot, which could be a free fix, is your battery cables could be loose or corroded. A simple cleanup and tightening would fix thay. And I would still check all the fuses, if not already done.
The 4-port 4AT starter is different from the 6-speed starters, so you will have to either get the OEM one or having to look for an upgraded one dedicated for the 4-port 4AT. Someone posted one before, but I can't remember now.
As for coils, you could go with OEM Revision C coils, BHR coils or Sake Bomb Garage coils.
Good to know I had no idea that they were different only when it came to Auto and Manual. I'm going to do some research tonight when I'm work to see what I can come up with. And let you know what I find.
You can get a starter at RockAuto or similar. Automatic is not the same as manual. Coils, it depends. If you plane to keep the car a long time, check out BHR. It's expensive but doesn't really need to be replaced for a long time. If you don't plan the keep the car that long, OEM is fine, but get them from Napa op AutoZone, cheaper than dealer. OEM coils live about 25k miles before they become suspect.
But before you spend money, get a shop to confirm the diagnosis.
One thing I forgot, which could be a free fix, is your battery cables could be loose or corroded. A simple cleanup and tightening would fix thay. And I would still check all the fuses, if not already done.
I'll start my search there. Yeah I ran across them a few times before and heard there good. I've seen the price for them when I was looking for parts before. Yeah since it won't start I will have to get it towed. I'm hoping that it really is something small like that will definitely check out the cables to. What would be the fuses to look out for?
Does the engine spin? or does it seem to be stuck? Maybe try putting a ratchet on the bottom pulley to see if you can spin the engine over, If you're able to spin it over then check you're starter. The engine shouldn't be to hard to turn over
Does the engine spin? or does it seem to be stuck? Maybe try putting a ratchet on the bottom pulley to see if you can spin the engine over, If you're able to spin it over then check you're starter. The engine shouldn't be to hard to turn over
I didn't even try that to know if it's stuck or not. Do you know what kind of ratchet i should use?
You'll want a longer 1/2' drive ratchet or breaker bar with a 19mm socket on the end of it if you are going to try and rotate the engine by hand.
Jack the car up and ensure the connections at the starter are clean and secure. Ensure that the signal wire is in place as well. It seems to me that everything else appears to be ok. Battery cables, main fuse etc. Ensure the gear selector is firmly in park as well. Make sure you run it through its range and back to park and try again. It could be that its not in park all the way. You could also try starting it in neutral as well and see if that changes anything.
Could This Be The Problem For The Engine Not Starting, No Belts On Crank Pulley.
There's no belt around the crank pulley. Could This Be The Problem For Not Starting. The Pulleys And Belt Look Old, Should I Replac Them First Before The Starter?
I've seen a few idlers lose the ribbing on the pulley on the Renesis. Usually either from a bad bearing on the idler or the compressor. In the last case I had, the compressor was locked up. Not having the a/c belt installed with a good idler will not cause a no crank issue. Diagnose that first and ensure that you have a good 12V signal to the starter when the ignition is switched to start. Once you get that sorted out, replace the drive belt that turns the water pump and alternator. Its an original belt and should be replaced.
Looking at the AC pulley, it looks like it hasn't been used for a while. These compressors should be run once in a while to keep it lubricated.
Also wonder why someone found the need to remove the belt? A/C clutch stuck?
Either way, follow the advice. Replace the serpentine belt and get the A/C belt. Should cost you $40~50 from the dealer. Look up the FSM to see what needs to be loosened to replace the belt, and get a finger tension gauge if you can to get the tension right on the belts. I have done the belts a while ago, just not 100% sure if S2 and S1 are the same.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 08-13-2018 at 02:27 PM.
"Good News & Bad News" By Passed The Rely And Gave The Starter Power It But The Battery Died. The New Problem Is Now "A Bad Wire Somewhere, A Bad Connection, Rely Or Something Missing?"
Good news, bad news: I bypassed the relay and gave the starter power, but the battery died. Problem now is a bad wire somewhere, a bad connection, relay - or am I missing something else?
Fixed.
Last edited by New Yorker; 08-19-2018 at 08:39 AM.
07-18-2018, 03:22 PM
