Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

+1 Motor mount.

Motor mounts are easy to check and pretty common. though on a '40th it should still be good... depending on how many miles.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Got a new toy installed last night.

Had to take a pic with the interior lights on because the LEDs are bright.
I honestly have always considered the illuminated shift ****, but always found the $300 price tag difficult to justify.
Someone was selling this used for $150 and I couldn't pass it up.
The enclosed LEDs really heat-up the top of the ****... guess I have a hand warmer to match the seats.
And I have to keep in mind everytime I remove the center console, I have to disconnect the wire harness to the **** before unscrewing it.

I'm sure I'll get some laughs for buying it, but I don't care... this is something I like and that's all that matters to me.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Did McGraw send you the link to that?

j/k ... better update the mods in your sig now.

And just out of curiosity, what power source did you wire into?

ngill33

iTrader: (1)

No laughs here Jon. Looks good to me, compliments the guage pod. Just remember to update your "current mods"
Agreed on the $300 price tag. That seems steep. Given the way I drive the car, ABS (Always Be Shifting), I probably wouldn't apprciate the look. Are the LEDs always on?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Can't.... reached the character limit (unless I get creative and condense/abbreviate more)
EDIT: Nevermind... didn't need the Hawk Brake Pads anymore since they are OEM now.

It actually comes with a connector that plugs into the back of the ash tray where the lighted ring is for the cigarette lighter.
So no wire cutting involved and really easy!

No... its switched power with the lights (fogs or headlights)

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

Ahemm. Who would tease you?

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

"I just don't understand cosmetic mods...I'll never put a mod on my car the doesn't do something." - Jon Gilbert

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

^I'm sure I never used the word "never"... especially coming from someone who has an RX8 logo for the 3rd brake light
I just prioritize my upgrades differently than others.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Read post# 11407 above...

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

BTW, talked with Eric at Mazda. Said to completely disconnect battery, both positive and negative, and touch them together (off the battery of course) to reset computer. Just disconnecting negative doesn't ground out the system enough to completely reset???

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

That just helps accelerate the processes by quickly discharging any capacitors and residual voltage still in the system.

Not true...
Leaving the battery disconnected for a few minutes will do the same thing, just slower.

tiresmoker

iTrader: (1)

No, because the LED would have been for an automatic shifter and have run off of (2) AA batteries. Also, it would have lit up rainbow colors and played nyan cat non stop.



PS: Jon, ur shifter is ghey now. You ricer. :p

Machiavelli

I just keep thinking back to the first time we all stood around Steve's car staring with perplexity at all the various and assorted LED bling that the previous owner had installed. By comparison, Jon's mod is the epitome of subtlety and good taste.

By the way, Steve, wasn't that the same night your radar detector waited until the cop that pulled you over was standing at your window before it decided to blare out a warning?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Think its my turn to ask the local "peeps" for help...

Been chasing around my starting issues for awhile now and starting to run out of options.
Basically... if I go on short trips (ex: down the road to the gas station) my car has a difficult time starting.
You can hear the starter turning slowly and then begin to spin faster... as if I had my original POS starter installed.
Weird thing is, when I go on long trips (~30min or more) it seems to start just fine.

I've done a compression test and everything is normal, though my RPMs were at 218.
Last time I did a compression test, with this starter, it spun at 248rpm.
And the wave form for all three rotor faces looked normal and consistent.

I inspected the plugs to see if there was discoloring that could point to something abnormal, but they looked fine.
Since I found the vacuum cap with a crack in it, my vacuum is 18hg.in and my LTFT and STFT stabilized.
I cycled the APV since I was getting hesitations above 5K RPM, but they cycled fine.
Checked the SSV and it moves smoothly.
Checked the battery/main ground and it looks clean... even moved my sending unit's ground that was attached there to another ground point.
Removed the alternator and took it up to Autozone... it tested fine.
New Optima battery purchased this spring.

So I can think of three more options to try at the moment...
1) Clean the terminal that hooks to the starter. Maybe its rusted and not making good contact.
2) SeaFoam the engine since its never been done (will probably do this anyway).
3) Replace starter.
And here is where I turn to the locals for help...
If I get to the point where I need to rule out the starter itself, would anybody be willing to swap starters with me, for a week or two, and see if my starting issues carry over and/or my starting issues get better?
Its not like you won't be able to start, it'll just take more cranks to get it running.
I usually crank it for 3sec and stop if it doesn't start, then try again and it starts after a few more cranks.
I would hate to spend $395 and it turns out to be something else, so narrowing it down would help me in my decision.
You must have the N3Z1 starter for this test to work too.

Let me know if you're interested in helping a brother out...

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Jon,

I still have some of the mazda zoom zoom cleaner if you want to use that.

I don't have any starters left, so I won't be too much help there. I'd say I could troll around and find one, but it'll be used. Knowing you, you'd get new in this situation.

Because you've checked air and spark, what about fuel? More specifically, the injectors? If the engine is cold and there is some restriction in the fuel injectors, it may not be able to get enough fuel in there to start to start it considering how rich it has to be using only the primary injectors.

Then when the engine is warm, its less restrictive, and starts right up.

Ever clean the fuel filter sock?

Idk, just throwing out other ideas.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Steve- I'll take the "zoom zoom" cleaner off your hands.
Also, fuel won't affect how fast the starter spins the e-shaft.
Remember, even during a compression test, you remove fuel and ignition.
Even if I had absolutely no fuel or spark, the starter should still spin the flywheel fine.

But I'll lie if I said the injectors never crossed my mind... just didn't seem to coincide with what I'm hearing.
If I rule-out the starter... I might have to check the injectors next...

Gopherage

Jon I don't know which starter I have but If I have the one you would need for your test you can borrow mine and I will just drive the truck for a few weeks.

Shinka_MJR

Jon, is your alternator dying? Short trips dont give the alternator enough time to put charge back to the battery. long trips of course, do. So short trips, you're going to be putting more strain on the battery.

just a thought.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for offering, but I believe you have an '04-'05 which has the N3H1 starter.
Unless you got it upgraded at some point.

As mentioned earlier... I had it tested.

Gopherage

I do have an 05, and no i never did get the upgrade. But I always watch for cheap ones to pop up.

http://car-part.com/

I was able to find about 6 or 7 upgraded starters between 2006 and 2008 (upgraded right?)
Between $50 and $125.

So you wouldn't have to buy that $400 one.

Shinka_MJR

i thought about this all night, i still have a feeling it's your alternator. if not that, then some where along the path between the alternator and your battery is shorting, causing the battery to not get its full charge. Your relating of going short distances = bad and long distances = good just seems to really lend to that being the case.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

This would be the opposite if it were the alternator.

If the alternator were the problem, the battery would be drained over long trips from the alternator not recharging the battery. The car would be able to run on battery power only for short trips (assuming the battery has a full charge).

Problem, the alternator is not.

Shinka_MJR

that's assuming the alternating is completely dead... not dying. Short trips are always bad on a battery, be it you have a good alternator or not. My dad killed a brand new battery over the course of a year because he was driving les than half a mile to work every day. the alternator never got a chance to charge the battery to begin with.

that's actually exactly why i wonder if the alternator isn't the issue or somewhere between. Jon's experiencing the same thing my dad did. Because if the alternator is not working efficiently (ie a short or dying), even over a long distance, it'll still charge the battery because it has time to work. short distance, it wont. If it isn't doing the job, the minimum short distance for it to be effective could be increased.

I'd get the alternator checked again somewhere else and/or test the wiring from it to make sure there isn't a short.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

You're saying that the alternator is working, but because the car is driven short distances, the battery is losing its charge being parked and not driven long enough to recharge the battery and will eventually ruin the battery.

You're also saying that on long trips, the alternator has time to work and will charge the battery allowing Jon to start the car without any problems.

...So... how is the alternator not working properly?

If your theory is correct... a fully charged battery would start the car without any problems OR a jump start from a car with a confirmed functioning charging system.

Further, if it were the alternator and battery, the starter would spin at a faster rpm which can also be tested.


Jon, where/when did you buy your Optima? I bought a red top for the Bronco and got a bad one right off the shelf. Drove it to New York without any problems (plenty of charge time) but then would barely start the truck when we got there. Once running, it was fine.

So, as odd as it may sound, could be a bad optima from the factory... or in my case, an optima that had been on a shelf for 2 years.

My money is on starter first.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

And you might be correct...

I wanted to give this a few more days before posting a result, but so far its starting fine now.
Monday morning I inspected the terminals and studs at the starter.
Both were rusted pretty bad and the wire going from the starter solenoid to the motor was caked with rust and corrosion.
Cleaned the terminals and studs the best I could with what I had available.
So far its been starting just fine... but I want to give it a few more days and more "short trip" starts.