Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Streetsboro, OH
Hey everyone, got an issue.
Symptoms: No CEL, car is randomly missing at idle and my vac readings fluctuate when it does. Seen mostly a -16 inhg until it misses which causes it to lower to -13 inhg then it starts to recover and misses again. I'm completely at a loss, and ideas? Plugs are new, I'm leaning towards my coils, however there is only 19k miles on the car
Symptoms: No CEL, car is randomly missing at idle and my vac readings fluctuate when it does. Seen mostly a -16 inhg until it misses which causes it to lower to -13 inhg then it starts to recover and misses again. I'm completely at a loss, and ideas? Plugs are new, I'm leaning towards my coils, however there is only 19k miles on the car
How is it under boost? What is your A/F ratio?
Have you ran your data logger to capture everything going on (I assume you have).
Are you using stock injectors?
Have you checked for intake leaks?
Also can't rule-out the tune itself.
I'm sure I'll think of others in a minute
THOUGHT OF ANOTHER...
What is the RPM at when idling? Does it idle high and start misfiring or idle low?
Have you ran your data logger to capture everything going on (I assume you have).
Are you using stock injectors?
Have you checked for intake leaks?
Also can't rule-out the tune itself.
I'm sure I'll think of others in a minute
THOUGHT OF ANOTHER...
What is the RPM at when idling? Does it idle high and start misfiring or idle low?
Last edited by Jon316G; May 14, 2009 at 06:45 AM.
So I have a "rough draft" of my Troubleshooting Intake Valves video.
I welcome any feedback, suggestions, comments.
If there is something that wasn't clear or anything additional that would be helpful (staying on valve troubleshooting topic), I would like to know before posting this in the DIY section.
http://www.vimeo.com/4628637
I welcome any feedback, suggestions, comments.
If there is something that wasn't clear or anything additional that would be helpful (staying on valve troubleshooting topic), I would like to know before posting this in the DIY section.
http://www.vimeo.com/4628637
And another thing.... (I was busy this week)
I've read people mention that its easier to adjust your headlights with the bumper off rather than through the wheel well.
Let me just say this... anyone saying that needs slapped!
I had my bumper off this past weekend doing stuff and I decided to raise my headlight level because I felt they were a little too low.
When cars passing me on RT8 have beams that shoot out father than mine, I get upset.
Anyway, I decided to adjust the headlights by removing the assembly and doing it that way.
So after removing the assembly, you need to hold it up with one hand and adjust with the other.
Then you have to reinstall it (I just used one bolt on top to hold it in place) and see how high/low it went.
Then you have to remove it again to make any other adjustment.
Now since the lights stayed on, the wires had to stay attached (which made it tricky) and the car had to stay running (so you don't drain the battery).
This was not fun.
So after making the adjustments I took it out on the road.
The beams were high and I definitely needed to lower them.
So I decided to try the other way and go through the wheel well.
After removing the wheel and undoing a few of those black clips inside, the adjustment screw was easily accessible!
I think its CRAZY that anyone would recommend removing the bumper to make the adjustments instead of simply taking one wheel off and a few clips.
In the end, my beams shoot-out farther and nobody has signaled me yet thinking my brights are on
I've read people mention that its easier to adjust your headlights with the bumper off rather than through the wheel well.
Let me just say this... anyone saying that needs slapped!
I had my bumper off this past weekend doing stuff and I decided to raise my headlight level because I felt they were a little too low.
When cars passing me on RT8 have beams that shoot out father than mine, I get upset.
Anyway, I decided to adjust the headlights by removing the assembly and doing it that way.
So after removing the assembly, you need to hold it up with one hand and adjust with the other.
Then you have to reinstall it (I just used one bolt on top to hold it in place) and see how high/low it went.
Then you have to remove it again to make any other adjustment.
Now since the lights stayed on, the wires had to stay attached (which made it tricky) and the car had to stay running (so you don't drain the battery).
This was not fun.
So after making the adjustments I took it out on the road.
The beams were high and I definitely needed to lower them.
So I decided to try the other way and go through the wheel well.
After removing the wheel and undoing a few of those black clips inside, the adjustment screw was easily accessible!
I think its CRAZY that anyone would recommend removing the bumper to make the adjustments instead of simply taking one wheel off and a few clips.
In the end, my beams shoot-out farther and nobody has signaled me yet thinking my brights are on
I have just about everything figured out and it shouldn't be difficult at all.
I've been waiting for Brian to call me so we can discuss this more in depth.
Basically, the driver card for the motor will have to be removed.
Which is no big deal if you plan on adjusting them yourself anyway.
Simply wire the motor to a DPTP center off switch (like I posted earlier) along with 12VDC and that's it.
Brian mentioned that he might do it this weekend.
If you want my help Brian, just let me know. I've gotten REALLY good at taken the headlight assembly out
I've been waiting for Brian to call me so we can discuss this more in depth.
Basically, the driver card for the motor will have to be removed.
Which is no big deal if you plan on adjusting them yourself anyway.
Simply wire the motor to a DPTP center off switch (like I posted earlier) along with 12VDC and that's it.
Brian mentioned that he might do it this weekend.
If you want my help Brian, just let me know. I've gotten REALLY good at taken the headlight assembly out
Last edited by Jon316G; May 14, 2009 at 05:54 PM.
SHKWAV
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 662
Likes: 2
From: Massillon, Ohio
How is it under boost? What is your A/F ratio?
Have you ran your data logger to capture everything going on (I assume you have).
Are you using stock injectors?
Have you checked for intake leaks?
Also can't rule-out the tune itself.
I'm sure I'll think of others in a minute
THOUGHT OF ANOTHER...
What is the RPM at when idling? Does it idle high and start misfiring or idle low?
Have you ran your data logger to capture everything going on (I assume you have).
Are you using stock injectors?
Have you checked for intake leaks?
Also can't rule-out the tune itself.
I'm sure I'll think of others in a minute
THOUGHT OF ANOTHER...
What is the RPM at when idling? Does it idle high and start misfiring or idle low?
Stock injectors
No intake leaks I can find or hear.
RPM at idle is steady at 800 - 850 during a miss the rpm will bounce up slightly, like MAYBE to 900, then return to normal.
That sucks.
I was gonna suggest finding out which one is misfiring, swap coils, and see if the issue carries over to the other chamber.
I have a set of used coils if you want to borrow them and rule that out.
I was gonna suggest finding out which one is misfiring, swap coils, and see if the issue carries over to the other chamber.
I have a set of used coils if you want to borrow them and rule that out.
Do all 4 work? If so I'll take you up on that offer, you free tomorrow? I have a strong feeling it's one of my trailing coils.
I tested them before for shorts and all the coils ohmed out OK.
I can test them again before I give them to you.
I should be free tomorrow.
I work until 5am and usually sleep during the day, so either early morning or later in the afternoon would be best (sometime after 4pm).
They should all work.
I tested them before for shorts and all the coils ohmed out OK.
I can test them again before I give them to you.
I should be free tomorrow.
I work until 5am and usually sleep during the day, so either early morning or later in the afternoon would be best (sometime after 4pm).
I tested them before for shorts and all the coils ohmed out OK.
I can test them again before I give them to you.
I should be free tomorrow.
I work until 5am and usually sleep during the day, so either early morning or later in the afternoon would be best (sometime after 4pm).
Just an FYI for anyone considering a school at Nelsons but I swapped my entry for the BMW school at MidOhio next weekend to their event on August 1/2 at Nelson's. If someone's looking for a decent school in the neighborhood I'll be there and the price isn't bad at all for a 2-day event ($300).
http://www.nohiobmwcca.org/events/ev...px?EventID=227
Doc or Mach here's your chance to check out Nelson's. And anyone else who's been thinking about getting on the track you'll have an in-car instructor and class time if this is your first time out.
http://www.nohiobmwcca.org/events/ev...px?EventID=227
Doc or Mach here's your chance to check out Nelson's. And anyone else who's been thinking about getting on the track you'll have an in-car instructor and class time if this is your first time out.
Anyway, I pulled my plug wires today and found one to throw out all sorts of weird resistances, probably had something to do with the rust that was in the boot. Anyway, I took a bore brush to it and cleaned it out a bit and the car runs... better, but not where it should be. So looks like I need some plug wires, any recommendations?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/8ignition.htm
I know Charles R Hill (BHR) sells them too because he uses them for his coil kits, so you can PM him for pricing.
I can bring them with me when I go to the autox on Sunday if you want to grab them.
