I'm interested in something like this... a good way to diagnose problems considering those of with '04s are prone to engine failure around this time.

The quote I got from Park Mazda Wooster was $125 for a compression test. But I'm sure that was before parts and labor and a reach around.

 

I'd pitch in with you for it.

 

7-4 has me at work as well. anytime after 5 is easiest for me

 

Alright, maybe I'll just plan on staying late this friday and working on the "hog" and you and Jon could drop them off.



In other news... got my '05 flippy key from ebay today and put the recut blanks in there... I got tired of having a remote separate from the key, seemed like an alright way to spend 30 bucks.
The guy on ebay said it was from a cx7 or cx9, but I'm pretty sure neither of those remotes would have a designated trunk release. I really didn't check to make sure all the numbers were correct, but I'll give it a shot.

I'll let you guys know about how the programming goes.

 

Please do Steve as Brian had a key die and some of the c6c folk don't believe our instructions work for programming a key.

 

Well... it worked for me the first time... the key started the car no problems.
I'm going to program the remote - keyless entry system later tonight.

How would a key die? Like the battery in the remote is dead?

 

He replaced the battery and it didn't fix it. I told him to use some contact cleaner on the board and see if one of the buttons just got a bad contact from over use or something. He hasn't said anything since.

 

Umm.... ok....
Still doesn't answer why you want to install the temp sensor returning from the heat core and not the engine.
Isn't that what we really want to monitor? Temp coming out of the engine?

 

I might have a few little projects going on with my car this weekend too.
One of them might involve a rocker switch.

 

I was reading about this last night.
Concept is nice... no need for a computer to off-load the data.
But until this is tested along side the Mazda tester and proves to be accurate, I still plan on buying the Mazda tester.

 

Im with Jon on this one. The whole point of the heater core is to disipate heat to the cabin therefore lowering the temp of the coolant, while maybe only slightly. I agree...use the inlet to the heater core if it is right there. As we know the stock sensor is a dummy sensor with three positions. (Off, Running, Oh **** I boiled the coolant) So it probably doesn't matter much to the OEM sensor where it is.

 

Now don't get me wrong... I've never installed gauges in a car before, so I'm no expert in that aspect.
I'm just applying what I do at work with heat exchangers to our car, which is a little different but the same concept.
Hell... we even brand our own sensors, though having an Allen Bradly sensor in my car might make me cringe... don't need to take a piece of work everywhere I go.
And like John said, the difference might be so slight that it doesn't matter, but why not make it as accurate as possible.

 

Well, the key works fine... programming the keyless entry hasn't worked yet in my 5 tries. I assume its me though, or the remote I have is on the wrong frequency or something... I asked for help in the DIY section...

Perhaps when Jon comes down he can take a look at it.

 

Just a random thought....
Have you verified the battery is still good?
Maybe take a quick voltage reading with a meter.

 

Well, the remote actually has a little red light on it when you push any button... the light doesn't seem to be dim or struggling... these don't require too much power, but it would be worth a check. If I could figure out how to open the freakin' thing.

 

Yeah... the chance of the battery going bad is slim
Since you have an LED illuminating I wouldn't worry about opening it.

 

Steve,
Is this what you followed to change the transmitter's ID:

 

True dat... but the term "verify" is spotty... plus when I push my door jam 3x, it doesn't lock, unlock, anything... Which leads me to believe I may be doing something else incorrectly.


Also, your PM is a dead link... I couldn't get the pic.

 

Here is the post where I included the link:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...postcount=3515

 

Steve, in that guide I posted where it says to "push driver's-side door switch three time", which switch did you use?
I'm assuming it wants the lock/unlock switch? Just doesn't clearly specify.

 

No...I think it is the open and close the doors three times that it is looking for.

Actually...Im right...this was in the DIY.

 

Ahh.... thanks for the clarification.

 

yeah... did that one... the rubber button on the rear door the actuates the cabin lights.

So... i'm confused.

 

zoom zoom... I saw it tick over to 130 before letting it roll at 120 for a few miles

 

140MPH is my top... no pic to prove it so I guess it never happened
I won't do that again... thinking back, that was stupid to do going down RT8 like that.
Too many potholes and random **** on that road.