One more question. When installing the new leading plugs, they didn't seem to tighten down very well. I didn't want to over torque them and stip the threads, but they definitely felt like they weren't fully seated. I noticed they have some time of washer on them, I am wondering if that needs to be crushed down.

 

I think Scott said something about the shims (washers) on the plugs weren't the correct ones, and he was working with the distributor to get that sorted out. In the mean time don't install them. If anyone has any more up to date info, or I'm wrong, please correct me.

 

I believe that was just for the trailing though, I only installed the leading.

 

Got a quick question. I installed the interceptor and in the MIcrotech software the vacuum screen shows -20 HG. Is that ok? or is it supposed to be +20 HG?

Just want to make sure my installation is correct.
Thanks

 

yes, -20Hg is correct at idle.

 

the leading plugs should only have the regular spark plug shim that comes on every spark plug, they dont come off, and they only need to be snug

 

Does flooring the gas pedal still cut fuel like it does with the stock computer?

 

very good ?????

did you flood?

beers

 

ok, its late, and this very well may be a silly question.

I installed the interceptor tonight, all but the vacuum line (connected to the int. just not to the 8) and of course only verified that the green and yellow lights would come on.

i have the profec e-01 boost controller (which i may sell soon), the greddy boost sensor is mounted connected by vacuum line to a three way in which the other two sides goes to the BOV and the nipple under the throttle body. I can't remember for the life of me but I think the boost sensor is still needed to control boost, correct? or does the valve for the boost controller that goes to the intake nipple and to the turbo control it all? If I take the boost sensor totally out, will my boost controller still work?

thanks guys

chris

 

no, the interceptor does not control boost. you must leave your boost controller in place if you want to increase boost.

 

ok, so this is what i am getting ready to do, got a t fitting, going to splice into the line that runs to the boost sensor, put the t fitting there and connect it to the interceptor. This vacuum line goes to the throttle body and also the bov. So when it is all finished, it will connect the bov, pressure sensor and interceptor to the throttle body.

Is that okay or is there too much there?

 

one more question, the plugs that you could buy from mazsport, the codes are the same for all four except two have like three shims, how do i know which are leading and which are trailing? I think the leading are the ones with only one normal shim and the trailing are the ones with the three shims, but how do i know if they are the right shims cuz i read that some of the shims were wrong and these plugs i have are from the first batch sent out i think.

 

That is fine how you are planning to connect the vacuum lines. The trailing plugs are the ones with the extra shims. The original shims that shipped out are incorrect. Scott should have sent you a package with a new set to use. If you don't have them only install the leading plugs. Keep the stock trailing and call Scott for the new shims.

 

thanks man, will do tomorrow!

 

So, I am currently on a business trip, and believe that I flooded my engine messing around with a weak battery. Since I am away from my tools, I had to tow it to a dealer. Of course, now I am pretty sure I am going to need new plugs (Scott put the RX-7 plugs in down at Mazsport), but doubt that the dealer here is going to have RX-7 plugs on hand when they change them out. Any recommendations? Think I could run the stock trailing plugs all the way around? On a side note, why do the shims go on the trailing RX-7 plugs?

 

You don't need to replace the plugs, just clean them with carb cleaner or something similar. If for some reason you must replace them, just put in the stock plugs, both leading and trailing. Just take it easy until you can order a new set of rx7 plugs from Scott, as they stock leading will be 1 heat range hotter. The shims for the trailing plugs may or may not be necessary, Scott doesn't know for sure since he hasn't disassembled a Renesis yet, so they're a precaution. I think the reason for them is because the rx7 plugs are slightly longer and could extend into the combustion chamber too far.

 

Not sure what the dealership will do about the plugs, since it is sort of in their hands now. I only asked about the shims/plugs because I was looking on sparkplug.com, and the stock leading plugs have a longer extension (21mm) than the trailing (19mm), and the RX7 plugs are 19mm like the stock ones. Maybe there is something I'm missing.

 

Actually if the battery voltage is below ~9v the Interceptor will not fire the injectors to prevent flooding issues. Rotary engines require good cranking R.P.M. so if the battery is low they are easier to flood. I would ask the Dealer (if it is flooded) to clean the leading plugs only and reinstall them. If they feel that they must change the trailing use the stock RX-8 plugs and make sure the tech has a total of 4 shims in his hands before they install the stock trailing plugs. If they have any questions please have them call me 727-530-9960 Scott

 

Thanks Scott. I passed that info along to them. They're working it, and naturally not doing any of it under warranty. I figured that would be the case, except that they are also going to put in the new starter motor that one of the TSBs talked about (which sounds like it might help some of my chronic weak battery problem, so I'm good with it), and are planning to charge me full price for it. I tried arguing with the service guy to no avail, so I'm going to contact MNAO about it. Considering it is a known issue, I don't see how they can claim the warranty on the starter motor is void because of the mods. We'll see how it goes.

 

How much do they run? I'd like one, but haven't tried the warranty card yet.

 

I don't see how they could blame the flooding on the turbo. Besides, you are entitled to 1 free deflood on Mazda, at least that's how my dealer explained it to me when they deflooded myne post turbo, free of charge. I would definitely argue a bit more about this. Especially on the starter!

 

Parts total that they quoted me was $550ish for the battery, starter, and plugs. I'd assume the majority of that is the starter.

 

battery and starter should be covered. plugs 50/50..

ask them to show how the turbo could have caused the problem then ask them why they have a new part #... same with battery.

go right to the service manager...

beers

 

Scudrunner,
Are you allowing the battery install? If so get the 3 month old Optima back from them! Scott

 

Actually, this is a one month old Optima, because the three month old Optima died on me already. And I have to let them replace it, because by the time I was finished trying to deflood the car and get it started, that battery was bone dry dead, and then sat for two days before anyone could look at it. I'm not sure there's any bringing it back to life at this point. I really wish I could figure out where the power drain is coming from.