View Poll Results: Was this data helpful is there enough data to help you?
Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll
LS6 swap parts list and how to paperwork
01-07-2013, 10:37 PM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LS6 swap parts list and how to paperwork
I want to start this off right….. I’m only posting to TRY to help someone out with this same build. If I did something you don’t like I’m sorry this is me and you are you and this worked for me. Like I said I’m only trying to help this is how I did it, take what you want and leave the rest.
I was so tired of everyone wanting to buy the Hinson parts because everyone said they were the only ones who could make it work. It made me sick they said you had to run custom headers, custom radiator blab la bla……. Please follow along I will list all the part # and the places I was able to get parts that off the shelf and much cheaper!! By no means was this a hard build but it did have some challenges along the way just as any project does.
I will explain in as much detail as I can, sorry if it too much but want to help as much as I can here!
First I started with a 04 Mazda RX8 with the motor blown (saves some money on the front side). Just pull the motor out labeling all wires that you unplug so you know what goes where for you will reuse a few of them. Be sure to take care of the oil pressure sensor as well as the temp sensor.
I have a lift and it was easier for me to push it out the bottom. You might want to come out the top either way is fine just get it out. J
The first thing you’ll need to do is remove the bracket that goes from drives side to passenger side.
Now to do the same thing with the ABS bracket! The heads will hit this bracket if this is not removed.
If you would like a Word Doc that has better pics and a better way to follow along please email me MMANGIN816@yahoo.com and I’ll send it to you. I took pics throughout the whole build to make it easier for the next person.
More to come tomorrow night or later tonight!
I was so tired of everyone wanting to buy the Hinson parts because everyone said they were the only ones who could make it work. It made me sick they said you had to run custom headers, custom radiator blab la bla……. Please follow along I will list all the part # and the places I was able to get parts that off the shelf and much cheaper!! By no means was this a hard build but it did have some challenges along the way just as any project does.
I will explain in as much detail as I can, sorry if it too much but want to help as much as I can here!
First I started with a 04 Mazda RX8 with the motor blown (saves some money on the front side). Just pull the motor out labeling all wires that you unplug so you know what goes where for you will reuse a few of them. Be sure to take care of the oil pressure sensor as well as the temp sensor.
I have a lift and it was easier for me to push it out the bottom. You might want to come out the top either way is fine just get it out. J
The first thing you’ll need to do is remove the bracket that goes from drives side to passenger side.
Now to do the same thing with the ABS bracket! The heads will hit this bracket if this is not removed.
If you would like a Word Doc that has better pics and a better way to follow along please email me MMANGIN816@yahoo.com and I’ll send it to you. I took pics throughout the whole build to make it easier for the next person.
More to come tomorrow night or later tonight!
Last edited by mdoffroad; 01-08-2013 at 08:39 PM.
01-07-2013, 10:54 PM
#3
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One thing I did was cut and bend the lip down all the way around on both sides. I only did this so I can remove my headers after the motor was installed and to give a little extra clearance. I’m running ARP studs for my headers…… Bolts would be easier but I don’t trust them to pull equally. See Pic’s!!
While you’re cutting you might want to make a few extra cut further up by the front core support if you want to run the same radiator as I’m running. 16"x26" Chevy Style All Aluminum Race Radiator is what I used and worked out good.More pic’s later of how it’s mounted
The motor mounts just worked out like this way due to the motor mount plate and everything else in the way.
While you have room to work in the engine bay I would upgrade the clutch master cylinder. I used the Tilton 7/8 bore. I had to enlarge the hole a little bit to make this fit but it only needed a little. Everything inside that connects to the clutch pedal will work with the tilton without modifying anything. I just unscrewed the clevis end off the stock master cylinder and reinstalled it to the tilton. Bolt holes line up too! I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts on mine.
While you’re cutting you might want to make a few extra cut further up by the front core support if you want to run the same radiator as I’m running. 16"x26" Chevy Style All Aluminum Race Radiator is what I used and worked out good.More pic’s later of how it’s mounted
The motor mounts just worked out like this way due to the motor mount plate and everything else in the way.
While you have room to work in the engine bay I would upgrade the clutch master cylinder. I used the Tilton 7/8 bore. I had to enlarge the hole a little bit to make this fit but it only needed a little. Everything inside that connects to the clutch pedal will work with the tilton without modifying anything. I just unscrewed the clevis end off the stock master cylinder and reinstalled it to the tilton. Bolt holes line up too! I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts on mine.
Last edited by mdoffroad; 01-08-2013 at 11:28 PM.
01-07-2013, 11:11 PM
#4
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
While the motor bay is open I would address the brakes if you’re going to do anything with the ABS system. I removed the ABS and installed the Wilwood part # 260-11179. I cut and removed the metric fittings and installed new 3/8-24 in. inverted flares. The rear was run as one line then I installed a tee to catch both lines (this valve is only a 3-out so you have to do something on the rear lines to use this part.) I got mine from Amazon.com for less!
Now that we have most of the things done in the engine bay it’s time to drop something in there!! I’m running and LS6 with 799 heads that’s been milled .030, Comp cam 571/573 lift with 281/283 Dur Part# 54-428-11, Ls7 lifters and trays, beehive Springs, 7.350 pushrods and ported LS6 oil pump.
Now a part that’s going to save you $$. I used a set of tight fit LS1 Headers part # 930-0114H from Speedway motors cost $275. These headers are ceramic coated you can go cheaper if needed but that’s your call. Ya, that’s some money but call Henson and drop $900 or more. I also order some exhaust wrap to cut down on the heat.
I order my exhaust tubing from speedway motor but I ordered it from eBay shipping was $7.99 and from Speedway motors.com it was almost $30. I’m not trying to be cheap but on a project like this you have to save everywhere you can. Plus I’ve already done the foot work for free if you want to use these same parts.
I started of my exhaust and cut one of the 180 degree bends in half and attached it to the headers.
Now that we have most of the things done in the engine bay it’s time to drop something in there!! I’m running and LS6 with 799 heads that’s been milled .030, Comp cam 571/573 lift with 281/283 Dur Part# 54-428-11, Ls7 lifters and trays, beehive Springs, 7.350 pushrods and ported LS6 oil pump.
Now a part that’s going to save you $$. I used a set of tight fit LS1 Headers part # 930-0114H from Speedway motors cost $275. These headers are ceramic coated you can go cheaper if needed but that’s your call. Ya, that’s some money but call Henson and drop $900 or more. I also order some exhaust wrap to cut down on the heat.
I order my exhaust tubing from speedway motor but I ordered it from eBay shipping was $7.99 and from Speedway motors.com it was almost $30. I’m not trying to be cheap but on a project like this you have to save everywhere you can. Plus I’ve already done the foot work for free if you want to use these same parts.
I started of my exhaust and cut one of the 180 degree bends in half and attached it to the headers.
Last edited by mdoffroad; 01-07-2013 at 11:18 PM.
01-08-2013, 08:38 PM
#11
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-08-2013, 10:56 PM
#12
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I want to clear the air a bit on some IM’s and emails that’s came though today. The car is up and running everything works but the Power steering (HELP PLEASE!!!) Can anyone tell me what wire works the RPM’s? If yes, is it operated by volts or ohms and what levels? By what I see on the wiring paperwork the steering works of a module which gets the signal from the same sensor which reads RPM’s’….. Am I right or even close? I have the car scheduled the 28th of this month for Dyno testing and final tune (I will post results as soon as completed).
This is the first car I’ve ever built and not sure I have time right now to take on any other projects if you’re looking to have this done by someone. I will however help you anyway I can outside of doing it right now!
Now back to business!!
Before you go to far I would go ahead and get you a transmission brace/bracket into place to help support the transmission and reduce the risk of it falling. I ran this one knowing how I was going to run my exhaust already (have a plan before you build your bracket).
Here’s my exhaust built and ready to be welded. The car already had Cat back system on it so that’s where I tied into.
If you can have your driveline in and somewhat in place or as close as you can get it help insure proper clearance for everything (exhaust, Driveline and track bar).
When I had the driveline made I just took the RX8 one and told them the year the Trans came out of and length required and two days later it was done. It cost $365 for a whole new driveline parts and labor.
I started the sub-frame connectors at this time to insure I’ll have clearance. I used the front bolts on the frame supports that where already there to tie the front of the sub-frame in . The rear was tied in by welding two slugs= (DOM tubing drilled and taped) taped to ½ bolt thread then welded to ¼ 2” wide plates. I held the part up to the sub-frame marked where the slugs would hit, and then I drilled a hole in the sub-frame and pushed the slugs up into the hole. I then welded the ¼ plate in and started tying the tubes into the mounts. I would make my mounts first then work to tie the tubes into the mounts.
This is the first car I’ve ever built and not sure I have time right now to take on any other projects if you’re looking to have this done by someone. I will however help you anyway I can outside of doing it right now!
Now back to business!!
Before you go to far I would go ahead and get you a transmission brace/bracket into place to help support the transmission and reduce the risk of it falling. I ran this one knowing how I was going to run my exhaust already (have a plan before you build your bracket).
Here’s my exhaust built and ready to be welded. The car already had Cat back system on it so that’s where I tied into.
If you can have your driveline in and somewhat in place or as close as you can get it help insure proper clearance for everything (exhaust, Driveline and track bar).
When I had the driveline made I just took the RX8 one and told them the year the Trans came out of and length required and two days later it was done. It cost $365 for a whole new driveline parts and labor.
I started the sub-frame connectors at this time to insure I’ll have clearance. I used the front bolts on the frame supports that where already there to tie the front of the sub-frame in . The rear was tied in by welding two slugs= (DOM tubing drilled and taped) taped to ½ bolt thread then welded to ¼ 2” wide plates. I held the part up to the sub-frame marked where the slugs would hit, and then I drilled a hole in the sub-frame and pushed the slugs up into the hole. I then welded the ¼ plate in and started tying the tubes into the mounts. I would make my mounts first then work to tie the tubes into the mounts.
Last edited by mdoffroad; 01-08-2013 at 11:04 PM.
01-09-2013, 08:30 PM
#15
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I removed the stock ppf and built this one to take it's place. Thank you for the info, Ill call tomorrow and see if I can get anywhere.
