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Offtopic thread pt. II 5-28-07

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 05:29 AM
  #226  
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I'm starting to smell gas when I'm driving
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:25 AM
  #227  
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pulsation damper?

Last edited by j_tso; Jun 19, 2007 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:46 AM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by Mordacity
I'm starting to smell gas when I'm driving
gotta watch that texmex












( you had to know that was coming)
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:24 AM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by canaryrx8
gotta watch that texmex

( you had to know that was coming)
NICE...haa...

Mord you want me to poke under your hood...

Any excuse to get on my back or in your hood for you...

Giggidy Giggidy Giggidy...
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 02:22 PM
  #230  
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Hey guys whatsup!! Canary glad you got ride back. Twink I wish I would have known earlier about karting, I would have loved to ride with reckless abandon. Avenger welcome back! Did you get a chance to pet a kola? Missed ya Modo! I told my parents today that I was going back to school. Mums was happy and so was pops, I think? This was his reaction "Well its about time dumbass." "Oh crap does this mean you going to move back in with us?" Gotta love family
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:16 PM
  #231  
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Hehe, I'm considering going back to school as well.. Time to finish my bachelors degree I think. Just not sure what I'm going to go back for.

Twinkie - You can come check it out if you want.

Speaking of car issues, I still need to change my god damn oil.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 07:27 AM
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yanked the screens last night, without any of them it idled pretty yucky, I put one back in and did a partial reset (brake pedal thingie) and it seemed to do a little better, but still seems to be struggling. I'm thinking it may be ignition again, anyone know of any stronger aftermarket systems out there? I saw where MazdaManiac had one he pieced together, but I was hoping for more options
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 07:34 AM
  #233  
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Canary, have you changed all the stuff around the ignition system? Plugs, Wires, etc?

Mord, Twink and I are working on our cars this weekend. I think we can change your oil for you. We are pretty quick at it.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by canaryrx8
yanked the screens last night, without any of them it idled pretty yucky, I put one back in and did a partial reset (brake pedal thingie) and it seemed to do a little better, but still seems to be struggling. I'm thinking it may be ignition again, anyone know of any stronger aftermarket systems out there? I saw where MazdaManiac had one he pieced together, but I was hoping for more options
If you want to hook up with venger, mord, and myself...I can poke a head in and see if maybe I have any advice...might be a vacuum leak or something silly too...
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #235  
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might be an option, the only leak I know of is the hose coming off the oil filler is disconnected on purpose, and I have the fitting on the intake capped. It's an old school trick people have been doing forever that's supposed to help get a slightly cleaner charge to the intake, I've ran it both ways in the past and still had similar problems so that's probably not it. Would belts/charging cause this at all? I'm right at 50k now and have never replaced them Last time this happened, car was at the dealer for 3-4 days, passed compression test w/ flying colors, and they replaced the entire ignition system. Thing is, this keeps coming back, so are our cars prone to ignition failure or? Is there something else that could be causing it to fail, some other factor causing my ignition bits to overwork and eventually fail? sounds like I have some forum searching to do
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:53 AM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by canaryrx8
might be an option, the only leak I know of is the hose coming off the oil filler is disconnected on purpose, and I have the fitting on the intake capped. It's an old school trick people have been doing forever that's supposed to help get a slightly cleaner charge to the intake, I've ran it both ways in the past and still had similar problems so that's probably not it. Would belts/charging cause this at all? I'm right at 50k now and have never replaced them Last time this happened, car was at the dealer for 3-4 days, passed compression test w/ flying colors, and they replaced the entire ignition system. Thing is, this keeps coming back, so are our cars prone to ignition failure or? Is there something else that could be causing it to fail, some other factor causing my ignition bits to overwork and eventually fail? sounds like I have some forum searching to do
Yeah I'm just running a breather filter and capped off the one to the intake. You should probably also change it to a breather filter as it normally uses the vacuum from the intake to vent.

Belts wouldnt be an issue if your not hearing squeaking or squealing so I doubt they are slipping.

The ignition system having been replaced recently is suspicious but not going to be my first suspect. If anything the coil location is bad and should be relocated. Plugs might be another suspect. I would have to hear the idle to tell you what might be causing it. Sometimes the sound of the symptom is enough to tell you what is going on.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #237  
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Canary, which dealership did you take your car to? And did they give you documents on what exactly they did to your car? I'm with Twink on this one, however maybe the coils are not plugged right.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:07 PM
  #238  
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It was Beasley south, there's a service manager there named Alan that takes really good care of my baby, said my car was quite the spectacle while it stayed there a few days last time, had people surrounding it etc. I went over the paperwork with him and it all seemed to check out, the car just seems to get really weak as it gets warmed up/hot/etc., and the idle is like a loping/chugga chugga sound. The other issue is I can't reproduce it at will, it just seems to occur intermittently, the only thing I've been able to tie it too is it being hot outside, in the cooler temps it was golden. It was good for at least a month or so after getting it back to, they erplaced plugs,wires,coils, cleaned out the carbon, ran a compression test, just one of those things I guess grrrr
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:16 PM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by canaryrx8
It was Beasley south, there's a service manager there named Alan that takes really good care of my baby, said my car was quite the spectacle while it stayed there a few days last time, had people surrounding it etc. I went over the paperwork with him and it all seemed to check out, the car just seems to get really weak as it gets warmed up/hot/etc., and the idle is like a loping/chugga chugga sound. The other issue is I can't reproduce it at will, it just seems to occur intermittently, the only thing I've been able to tie it too is it being hot outside, in the cooler temps it was golden. It was good for at least a month or so after getting it back to, they erplaced plugs,wires,coils, cleaned out the carbon, ran a compression test, just one of those things I guess grrrr
You do the TB-Bypass mod? Also does the intake exit the engine bay? Still sounds like a vacuum leak to me...
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:19 PM
  #240  
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I have the AEM so the filter sits right behind the front grill, I don't know what the tb-bypass mod is so my answer to that is "no" (I've heard of it, just don't know what it is)
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:28 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by canaryrx8
I have the AEM so the filter sits right behind the front grill, I don't know what the tb-bypass mod is so my answer to that is "no" (I've heard of it, just don't know what it is)
Normally coolant circulates thru the TB. The TB-Bypass takes the two hoses going to the TB and connects them together maintaining the flow however not thru the TB. Normally its useful in the northern areas where freezing is an issue. I did it cause in texas heat the last thing I want is hot coolant warming up my intake charge...

OH and have you cleaned your filter recently? Do you get any bogging when going from a roll to WOT?

Last edited by eviltwinkie; Jun 20, 2007 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #242  
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Also, is it like this all the time? Motor cold and motor warm?

I think the ignitions going bad was product of the high under the hood temps.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 03:04 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by avenger
Also, is it like this all the time? Motor cold and motor warm?

I think the ignitions going bad was product of the high under the hood temps.
Main issue is the coil location...but makes a vented hood sound like a good idea...
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 03:21 PM
  #244  
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Until it rains.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 03:24 PM
  #245  
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Meh...just drive faster...
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 03:42 PM
  #246  
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found the TB diy so may try that tonight, from reading it seems to have made a difference for quite a few folks. I'm also running a 4 port, but I assume the coils are in the same spot. I think you're right about the high heat causing failure etc., maybe I should invest in the Mazsport mod lol This only seems to happen when the engine has been running a while and is warmed up/hot, most noticable after the drive home from work the last few days with the car idling in traffic alot on the way home etc. Car is peppy/great when cold, just gets crappy after it gets heated up.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 04:31 PM
  #247  
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The TB bypass I think helps alot esp. in this Texas heat. The TB is no where near as hot as it used to get. I was going to move my coils after I due FI or upon replacement. Charles might have found a better location so I'm waiting on more details before I make my own commitment.

You might want to check coolant and your oil cooler for blockage. Just in case. But again my money based on what I have heard so far is that its vacuum related.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 04:34 PM
  #248  
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I still haven't done the TB mod. I'm too lazy plus the car still runs greats ... just has problems stopping.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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would a vacuum leak have any preference to tempature? wouldn't I have issues while it is cold if that was the case? or is the heat causing something to expand which in turn could be a vacuum leak etc etc? At first I thought maybe it was my new grill mesh as it is tighter than the old stuff, but I had this with the old mesh that had the bigger openings etc so there's no way that would matter. (I'm grasping at straws anyway, probably overthinking it lol). got any suggestions on how to locate any such leak? My last car was a 97 S10, quite a bit less sophisticated than this car, so if you have any ideeers let me know (back to thesearch button too lol)
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by canaryrx8
would a vacuum leak have any preference to tempature? wouldn't I have issues while it is cold if that was the case? or is the heat causing something to expand which in turn could be a vacuum leak etc etc? At first I thought maybe it was my new grill mesh as it is tighter than the old stuff, but I had this with the old mesh that had the bigger openings etc so there's no way that would matter. (I'm grasping at straws anyway, probably overthinking it lol). got any suggestions on how to locate any such leak? My last car was a 97 S10, quite a bit less sophisticated than this car, so if you have any ideeers let me know (back to thesearch button too lol)
Yes a vacuum leak in a rubber line or something might get worse with heat due to expansion. I saw it happen on a former car and "pinhole" leak. The easiest way to locate said leak was to allow the car to idle and then take a can of WD-40 and spray the lines and suspect crevices. If you "hit" the leak the idle of the car will noticeably change. Kind of messy, but does the job.

The other thing you might want to think about is your grills. They will restrict airflow and thus your temps will increase as well. Simple test...remove screens and see if it goes away. I was going to get some screens for my car but after some searching and chatting here and there I was convinced not to do so. The temps of people screening the openings were highly noticeable on the aftermarket temp gauges.

I don't think its critical on a street ride per se, but I would remove them just in case for a simple test.
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