Official SARX Lounge
SARX
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Nice dude, let me know when you get everything in and we will slap em' on. Did you get pads too?
St. Anto is the **** yo'.
Same codes?
Yeah we need to get back in the swing of things.
Same codes?
Yeah we need to get back in the swing of things.
Not sure... popped up late last night so I haven't had a chance to read them yet. Assuming they're the same. Not sure why it stayed off for so long this time... it did seem a bit cooler last night than the previous few days, but that might be completely unrelated.
AllMyDiamonds
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Any of you guys know what the recommended "break-in" motor oil is for a new Reman 13B? North Park is telling me that I should start off with 5W20 n then go to 5W30, but it sounds a little off to me.
4theride1
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio
[QUOTE=9krpmrx8;3786745]Nice dude, let me know when you get everything in and we will slap em' on. Did you get pads too?
Yea, the price included the pads. I'm definitely down for the next mod day
Yea, the price included the pads. I'm definitely down for the next mod day
Well I would follow this break in recommendation:
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...rocedures.html
Grungepup is right though, the more oil changes early on, the better. On my current rebuild I got the factory fill out at 500 miles and then did a double change and put in 0W-30 GC for 1500 miles and did another change.
But which oil you choose during that period is of little concern. The 5W (W referred to as weather or cold start indication) is what matters when you start your engine cold. The colder the oil the thicker so the lower that number is the more is flows when cold. Engine wear mostly occurs during this cold start period. The second number is where your "strength" of the oil is. I may be retarded but I think of not warming your car up properly like running a marathon without warming up, you are going to hurt something.
That said, not all oil is made equally, a 0W-30 (fully synthetic) of one brand can be tested and show the same viscosity of a 10W-30 Dino (non synthetic). For example, after only 1500 miles the fully synthetic German Castrol 0W-30 I was running tested at about 8cst or so of viscosity. My Castrol GTX 10W-30 non synthetic tested about the same after 3,000 miles and it is a non synthetic. Fluke? maybe. German Castrol is a highly regarded synthetic and sought after by many but the bottom line is that it did not test well in my car after only 1500 miles so what do you think the viscosity would have been after 3,000 miles?
If you care to read and learn you will find the numbers on the bottle do not mean a whole lot but are more of a general idea. Many companies market full synthetics that are not truly full synthetics, etc. the only way you will know how your oil is doing, is to test it. But generally speaking, as long as you use a good brand and change it often, you will not have any problems. But IMO, if you drive hard or skimp on oil change intervals in Texas then you should be running a good 0W-40 or 5W-40.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Nov 18, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
Well I would follow this break in recommendation:
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...rocedures.html
Grungepup is right though, the more oil changes early on, the better. On my current rebuild I got the factory fill out at 500 miles and then did a double change and put in 0W-30 GC for 1500 miles and did another change.
But which oil you choose during that period is of little concern. The 5W (W referred to as weather or cold start indication) is what matters when you start your engine cold. The colder the oil the thicker so the lower that number is the more is flows when cold. Engine wear mostly occurs during this cold start period. The second number is where your "strength" of the oil is. I may be retarded but I think of not warming your car up properly like running a marathon without warming up, you are going to hurt something.
That said, not all oil is made equally, a 0W-30 (fully synthetic) of one brand can be tested and show the same viscosity of a 10W-30 Dino (non synthetic). For example, after only 1500 miles the fully synthetic German Castrol 0W-30 I was running tested at about 8cst or so of viscosity. My Castrol GTX 10W-30 non synthetic tested about the same after 3,000 miles and it is a non synthetic. Fluke? maybe. German Castrol is a highly regarded synthetic and sought after by many but the bottom line is that it did not test well in my car after only 1500 miles so what do you think the viscosity would have been after 3,000 miles?
If you care to read and learn you will find the numbers on the bottle do not mean a whole lot but are more of a general idea. Many companies market full synthetics that are not truly full synthetics, etc. the only way you will know how your oil is doing, is to test it. But generally speaking, as long as you use a good brand and change it often, you will not have any problems. But IMO, if you drive hard or skimp on oil change intervals in Texas then you should be running a good 0W-40 or 5W-40.
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...rocedures.html
Grungepup is right though, the more oil changes early on, the better. On my current rebuild I got the factory fill out at 500 miles and then did a double change and put in 0W-30 GC for 1500 miles and did another change.
But which oil you choose during that period is of little concern. The 5W (W referred to as weather or cold start indication) is what matters when you start your engine cold. The colder the oil the thicker so the lower that number is the more is flows when cold. Engine wear mostly occurs during this cold start period. The second number is where your "strength" of the oil is. I may be retarded but I think of not warming your car up properly like running a marathon without warming up, you are going to hurt something.
That said, not all oil is made equally, a 0W-30 (fully synthetic) of one brand can be tested and show the same viscosity of a 10W-30 Dino (non synthetic). For example, after only 1500 miles the fully synthetic German Castrol 0W-30 I was running tested at about 8cst or so of viscosity. My Castrol GTX 10W-30 non synthetic tested about the same after 3,000 miles and it is a non synthetic. Fluke? maybe. German Castrol is a highly regarded synthetic and sought after by many but the bottom line is that it did not test well in my car after only 1500 miles so what do you think the viscosity would have been after 3,000 miles?
If you care to read and learn you will find the numbers on the bottle do not mean a whole lot but are more of a general idea. Many companies market full synthetics that are not truly full synthetics, etc. the only way you will know how your oil is doing, is to test it. But generally speaking, as long as you use a good brand and change it often, you will not have any problems. But IMO, if you drive hard or skimp on oil change intervals in Texas then you should be running a good 0W-40 or 5W-40.
Allow your engine to warm up to norm operating temps before hard driving.
In fact, keep your RPMs below 5k for the first 1000 miles. Then slowing move up to the point where you can redline.
If you need or want anymore advice or help with your car, please contact us, we are move than willing to help locals.
great movie i love the scene with the first time they are sleeping in the same room