recommended tyre pressure
06-03-2006, 01:10 AM
#26
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I am having mine 32 psi all round. Overinflation helps FC but cause wear on the centre thread and less traction. Handling is good but you lose the traction. Usually i use sligthly lower pressure on the front tires for FF cars. But i realise the 8 is quite neutral in handling so i use equal pressure all round.
Low pressure gets more traction.
And yes, if you want a faster 0-100. Increase pressure on front alot but slightly underinflate back.
Low pressure gets more traction.
And yes, if you want a faster 0-100. Increase pressure on front alot but slightly underinflate back.
06-03-2006, 03:38 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by Emperor
I am having mine 32 psi all round. Overinflation helps FC but cause wear on the centre thread and less traction. Handling is good but you lose the traction. Usually i use sligthly lower pressure on the front tires for FF cars. But i realise the 8 is quite neutral in handling so i use equal pressure all round.
Low pressure gets more traction.
And yes, if you want a faster 0-100. Increase pressure on front alot but slightly underinflate back.
Low pressure gets more traction.
And yes, if you want a faster 0-100. Increase pressure on front alot but slightly underinflate back.
tyres ( 10-15% more )...was advice by an advance driving course instructor that overinflation
does help in performance n FC wise...so he strongly recommend that all
participant overinflate their tyres by not more than 20% b4 coming for the
course...
But the downside to it all was that, ur car is less likely to to have maximum
traction on wet surfaces...
06-05-2006, 01:41 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Rei
But the downside to it all was that, ur car is less likely to to have maximum traction on wet surfaces...
Last edited by Genesis; 06-05-2006 at 09:23 PM.
06-06-2006, 11:13 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by Genesis
Therefore you need the Eagle F1 GS-D3...wet traction superb and dry is "not so" superb" and my fu*kin athletes foot is killin' me
wear out...
Hmm...I think I have the perfect cure for your foot problem...chop them off then no more problem...heehee
sorry, cold joke...
06-06-2006, 11:34 PM
#31
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There is always 2nd hand rims and tyres for the budget concious. Though i personally won't buy them.
And you can always make the stock tyres wear out faster; so got excuse to change.
Why not chop everything above the foot and the foot will not have a problem with someone disagreeing with his problem.
And you can always make the stock tyres wear out faster; so got excuse to change.
Why not chop everything above the foot and the foot will not have a problem with someone disagreeing with his problem.
06-07-2006, 11:05 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by Emperor
Why not chop everything above the foot and the foot will not have a problem with someone disagreeing with his problem.
06-07-2006, 11:50 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by Emperor
And you can always make the stock tyres wear out faster; so got excuse to change.
06-08-2006, 02:07 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Emperor
There is always 2nd hand rims and tyres for the budget concious. Though i personally won't buy them.
And you can always make the stock tyres wear out faster; so got excuse to change.
Why not chop everything above the foot and the foot will not have a problem with someone disagreeing with his problem.
And you can always make the stock tyres wear out faster; so got excuse to change.
Why not chop everything above the foot and the foot will not have a problem with someone disagreeing with his problem.
Hahaha...no financial controller lah...so if i wear out my tyre now...i think i might
be able to drift thru every coner at a death defyin speed of 10km/h...
06-08-2006, 02:09 PM
#36
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hi guys, thanks for all the info shared so far, and the small talk
anyhow, i discovered that my front right tyre may be leaking... not sure how to term it, but the PSI drops a lot within 1 week. i filled it to 34psi(cold) at my last top up, and today when i topped up again, i found the psi had dropped to about 24psi(cold)... shocking.
what are my options apart from changing all 4 tyres? (the tyres are about 2 years old, with lots of thread left). i understand that thread depth is not a good gauge of tyre quality as the rubber does deteriorate and i am probably due for a change, and i do not want to change just 1 tyre either. it's just that i am hopeful of trashing the tyres a bit before changing them... just that now with 1 tyre like that, what are the complications?
such as even if i pump air every 3 days, are there dangers to driving my car hard? and let's say i go to track, even if i make sure pressure is alright before the session, what problems could i face?
could using tyre sealants be a solution?
all info welcome, and i also intend to visit a shop to check the tyre out, just wanna find out more here since tyre shops are likely to "push" me towards changing for new ones.
thanks.
anyhow, i discovered that my front right tyre may be leaking... not sure how to term it, but the PSI drops a lot within 1 week. i filled it to 34psi(cold) at my last top up, and today when i topped up again, i found the psi had dropped to about 24psi(cold)... shocking.
what are my options apart from changing all 4 tyres? (the tyres are about 2 years old, with lots of thread left). i understand that thread depth is not a good gauge of tyre quality as the rubber does deteriorate and i am probably due for a change, and i do not want to change just 1 tyre either. it's just that i am hopeful of trashing the tyres a bit before changing them... just that now with 1 tyre like that, what are the complications?
such as even if i pump air every 3 days, are there dangers to driving my car hard? and let's say i go to track, even if i make sure pressure is alright before the session, what problems could i face?
could using tyre sealants be a solution?
all info welcome, and i also intend to visit a shop to check the tyre out, just wanna find out more here since tyre shops are likely to "push" me towards changing for new ones.
thanks.
06-08-2006, 02:21 PM
#37
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Hi lestat,
I had the same problem with you on the declining pressure in one of my tyre. Usually, Id pump like 34psi, 2-3 days later, it went down to 26psi.. Had to idea to why and where was the leak. Had to fill it up on a daily basis.. horrible...
Just 3 days back, while i washing my car, i looked at the tyre..at the valve were bubbles forming... then I thought to myself... WHY didnt i think of that..
Next morning, Headed straight to Autoserve to get my 'head' changed ($8)...tyre was as gd as new... Simple yet oversighted... hope this helps
I had the same problem with you on the declining pressure in one of my tyre. Usually, Id pump like 34psi, 2-3 days later, it went down to 26psi.. Had to idea to why and where was the leak. Had to fill it up on a daily basis.. horrible...
Just 3 days back, while i washing my car, i looked at the tyre..at the valve were bubbles forming... then I thought to myself... WHY didnt i think of that..
Next morning, Headed straight to Autoserve to get my 'head' changed ($8)...tyre was as gd as new... Simple yet oversighted... hope this helps
06-09-2006, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Lestat13
could using tyre sealants be a solution?
all info welcome, and i also intend to visit a shop to check the tyre out, just wanna find out more here since tyre shops are likely to "push" me towards changing for new ones.
thanks.
all info welcome, and i also intend to visit a shop to check the tyre out, just wanna find out more here since tyre shops are likely to "push" me towards changing for new ones.
thanks.
always go to a tyre shop n have the nail remove n do a simple patch up
as a solution...
But seriously if u dun wanna change ur tyres, u might wanna consider doing a
rotation on your tyres since it has been 2 yrs?
But then if u feel ur tyre really cannot make it already, better have them change
lah...safer this way...
06-09-2006, 02:18 AM
#45
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Possible. Considering some cast rims are so cheap thats its suspicious. And some tires are so expensive that you wondering if gold dust is being used instead of silica.
Usually i rotate about 10k kms or 6 months or when business is so bad that i have nothing to do. ITs a good habit actually.
Usually i rotate about 10k kms or 6 months or when business is so bad that i have nothing to do. ITs a good habit actually.
06-09-2006, 07:32 AM
#46
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thanks for all the tips, guys.
anyway my problem with the tyre started AFTER i did a rotation during my last service. although i am a bit sceptical if the mechanic actually did the rotation since my rims are in the same positions (do they only swop the tyres and leave rims alone?) and the whole 25000km service seemed quite fast including a battery and brake pad change.
i have yet to drive my car today so can't check how much air has leaked during this time. will definitely check out the cause of the leak soon.
INXS, any problems after getting the valve head changed?
anyway i was snooping around at tirerack.com and i realise not many tyre models come in 225/45 18...
anyway my problem with the tyre started AFTER i did a rotation during my last service. although i am a bit sceptical if the mechanic actually did the rotation since my rims are in the same positions (do they only swop the tyres and leave rims alone?) and the whole 25000km service seemed quite fast including a battery and brake pad change.
i have yet to drive my car today so can't check how much air has leaked during this time. will definitely check out the cause of the leak soon.
INXS, any problems after getting the valve head changed?
anyway i was snooping around at tirerack.com and i realise not many tyre models come in 225/45 18...
06-09-2006, 08:31 AM
#48
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Not possible they change tires but leave rims in the same position. Its way easier to change the position of the tires and rims than change tires but not rims.
But if they change the brake pads then its not much of a hassle to rotate the tires as they will have to remove the tires in the first place.
I realise our tire size was alittle less common than most. Overall size much bigger.
But if they change the brake pads then its not much of a hassle to rotate the tires as they will have to remove the tires in the first place.
I realise our tire size was alittle less common than most. Overall size much bigger.
06-09-2006, 03:38 PM
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that's what i thought... that they will switch the rims with the tyres on them to rotate... but if they changing brakepads, all the more they should rotate WITH the rims, right? since they remove the rims anyway... i dun think they take the tyres out.
anyhow, i can't find a tyre discussion in the far east/asia subfolder... and i'm a little sceptical of other reviews since our climate is quite different from america or europe. we get so much rain, much higher humidity no winter.
ok, INXS... thanks. i'll prob just get the valvehead changed if that is the problem. btw, are u an INXS fan? caught Rockstar INXS last year? what u think of their new lead singer.
anyhow, i can't find a tyre discussion in the far east/asia subfolder... and i'm a little sceptical of other reviews since our climate is quite different from america or europe. we get so much rain, much higher humidity no winter.
ok, INXS... thanks. i'll prob just get the valvehead changed if that is the problem. btw, are u an INXS fan? caught Rockstar INXS last year? what u think of their new lead singer.