Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
10-06-2007, 06:47 AM
#27
Metatron
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"Taking the pan off" sounds like a good idea, but it ain't.
If you want a Jiffy-Lube teenager pulling the pan off just to get the last cup of oil out, you are nuts.
The 10mm nuts are small, they are easily overtightened/stripped into the alloy block....$
The pan won't come off, even after all the bolts are out, it's glued in place, so the tech will pry it with large screwdrivers, bending it all around the rim. Best case is it will leak forever, worst case - new pan.....$$
Tech will have to use silicone/goop to re-seal pan to block, gets some in bolt hole and tightens it up. Block WILL crack (check the warning in the manual).......New block. $$$$$$$
How are those LubeQuik guys looking now? Still think they are lazy and just "don't want to do it right"?.......
S
If you want a Jiffy-Lube teenager pulling the pan off just to get the last cup of oil out, you are nuts.
The 10mm nuts are small, they are easily overtightened/stripped into the alloy block....$
The pan won't come off, even after all the bolts are out, it's glued in place, so the tech will pry it with large screwdrivers, bending it all around the rim. Best case is it will leak forever, worst case - new pan.....$$
Tech will have to use silicone/goop to re-seal pan to block, gets some in bolt hole and tightens it up. Block WILL crack (check the warning in the manual).......New block. $$$$$$$
How are those LubeQuik guys looking now? Still think they are lazy and just "don't want to do it right"?.......
S
10-06-2007, 06:55 AM
#28
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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"Taking the pan off" sounds like a good idea, but it ain't.
If you want a Jiffy-Lube teenager pulling the pan off just to get the last cup of oil out, you are nuts.
The 10mm nuts are small, they are easily overtightened/stripped into the alloy block....$
The pan won't come off, even after all the bolts are out, it's glued in place, so the tech will pry it with large screwdrivers, bending it all around the rim. Best case is it will leak forever, worst case - new pan.....$$
Tech will have to use silicone/goop to re-seal pan to block, gets some in bolt hole and tightens it up. Block WILL crack (check the warning in the manual).......New block. $$$$$$$
How are those LubeQuik guys looking now? Still think they are lazy and just "don't want to do it right"?.......
S
If you want a Jiffy-Lube teenager pulling the pan off just to get the last cup of oil out, you are nuts.
The 10mm nuts are small, they are easily overtightened/stripped into the alloy block....$
The pan won't come off, even after all the bolts are out, it's glued in place, so the tech will pry it with large screwdrivers, bending it all around the rim. Best case is it will leak forever, worst case - new pan.....$$
Tech will have to use silicone/goop to re-seal pan to block, gets some in bolt hole and tightens it up. Block WILL crack (check the warning in the manual).......New block. $$$$$$$
How are those LubeQuik guys looking now? Still think they are lazy and just "don't want to do it right"?.......
S
It's just plain scary to think that people would want to pull the pan off at every oil change...............what else can I say.
I mean this is really scary! I'd rather go ahead and use one of those vacuum things that go into the dipstick and suck it out before taking the pan off each and everytime. I hope to hell they read your response Stealth, as you took the time to explain most of the hazards I was thinking, but I was too lazy to put them all down!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 10-06-2007 at 07:03 AM.
10-06-2007, 09:12 AM
#29
stock standard
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10-06-2007, 09:25 AM
#30
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10-06-2007, 09:43 AM
#31
Who cares about the pan! worse case you need a new engine. If they pry on it in the wrong spots, parts of the engine housing can easily be damaged. The OEM pan is not in any danger of being damaged.
10-06-2007, 02:56 PM
#33
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If change engine oil every 3k km with syntactic rotary oil , sure don't need to remove oil pan. But if using mineral oil with 5k km, then you can choose your engine fate. Pay another $10 for removing it won't make your wallet bleeds. The recent engine blown cost me about US$6k to get it done in Japan and send back (blown badly).
10-06-2007, 03:10 PM
#34
If change engine oil every 3k km with syntactic rotary oil , sure don't need to remove oil pan. But if using mineral oil with 5k km, then you can choose your engine fate. Pay another $10 for removing it won't make your wallet bleeds. The recent engine blown cost me about US$6k to get it done in Japan and send back (blown badly).
10-06-2007, 07:44 PM
#35
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I'm not forcing you to follow. You can use the magnetic drain plug and put the hope on it. I have no offense but only give my comment. But so far, non of my cars got oil pan leak till date, including the 1993 wira. I have no doubt on high quality liquid gasket.
10-07-2007, 01:37 PM
#37
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Hmm.. no one's forcing you not to remove the oil pan either, we're just a little concerned and are giving advice cos we know what taking off the pan can do to a car if your mechanic koks it up, and don't see the benefits of doing so (if any... The reasons you mentioned don't seem to make sense). Also, in my 13 yrs of driving and reading about cars, I've never heard of anyone removing the pan for routine oil changes, nor have I seen any writeups which even suggest that.
Regarding the magnetic plug, that's what some aircraft engines use to remove metal debris... or at least, to detect them. The question is, in cars, do we remove and clean the plugs often enough to be of any use, or does it just get saturated too quickly and stop being effective after a short while?
Regarding the magnetic plug, that's what some aircraft engines use to remove metal debris... or at least, to detect them. The question is, in cars, do we remove and clean the plugs often enough to be of any use, or does it just get saturated too quickly and stop being effective after a short while?
10-07-2007, 01:42 PM
#38
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Hmm.. no one's forcing you not to remove the oil pan either, we're just a little concerned and are giving advice cos we know what taking off the pan can do to a car if your mechanic koks it up, and don't see the benefits of doing so (if any... The reasons you mentioned don't seem to make sense). Also, in my 13 yrs of driving and reading about cars, I've never heard of anyone removing the pan for routine oil changes, nor have I seen any writeups which even suggest that.
Regarding the magnetic plug, that's what some aircraft engines use to remove metal debris... or at least, to detect them. The question is, in cars, do we remove and clean the plugs often enough to be of any use, or does it just get saturated too quickly and stop being effective after a short while?
Regarding the magnetic plug, that's what some aircraft engines use to remove metal debris... or at least, to detect them. The question is, in cars, do we remove and clean the plugs often enough to be of any use, or does it just get saturated too quickly and stop being effective after a short while?
Anyway, I change my own oil every 3000 miles and I do clean the plug each and every time, so having said that...............If I was to use a magnetic plug, it would probably do some good.....not sure how much though.
Hey.................Isn't that Typhoon getting pretty close to you by now or is it gone already?
10-23-2007, 12:42 PM
#41
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bought one of those magnetic plugs off ebay. whenever i change the oil there is some dirt around the magnet. not sure if it makes much of a difference but i'm sure it doesn't hurt either.
btw regarding dropping the oil pan to clean out the oil, i'd suggest disconnecting oil cooler lines to remove as much oil as possible out of the system.
btw regarding dropping the oil pan to clean out the oil, i'd suggest disconnecting oil cooler lines to remove as much oil as possible out of the system.
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