Improving RX 8 FC - 6MT
#26
Good info to have bro and am glad it is working for you.
If I aint wrong, MM here in Singapore uses the 20w 50 Shell Helix Super Mineral as the recommended for the stock RX8 which contradicts the MM manual by a pretty large degree.
Maybe its just kiasuism at work here lol I dunno.
What perf mods are you using bro? That might be a good yardstick for everyone else to gauge also as it stands to reason that if it works for you at that level (180km/h) with no issues - then someone else with the same setup and driving habits could do the same too.
But just to be safe...I'd call Ivan/Darren/Mike and check with them lol.
If I aint wrong, MM here in Singapore uses the 20w 50 Shell Helix Super Mineral as the recommended for the stock RX8 which contradicts the MM manual by a pretty large degree.
Maybe its just kiasuism at work here lol I dunno.
What perf mods are you using bro? That might be a good yardstick for everyone else to gauge also as it stands to reason that if it works for you at that level (180km/h) with no issues - then someone else with the same setup and driving habits could do the same too.
But just to be safe...I'd call Ivan/Darren/Mike and check with them lol.
I have no 3 row radiator + 2 additional oil coolers when i do those 180km/h cruising though, and was using Scangauge to monitor the water temp which is around 88 - 91 degree C.
Now i've the 3 row radiator + 2 additonal oil coolers, haven't tried 180km/h cruising yet, but normal city driving in SG reading was Oil temp abt 60-70 C when moving and 80 - 85 C when stuck in jam.
Water temp never hit 99 C so far but more or less the same, just that it moves up slower (in jam) and goes down faster (when moving).
hope these info helps.
#28
i know, i hand over 2 aftermarket oil cooler to the workshop to install for me, and instruct them to remove my stock oil cooler, but they didn't do so when i return back there!
...now really speachless!
...now really speachless!
#29
stock standard
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its fine because if he pushes his car a little and stuck in traffic jam..it will hit 80ish...and if he pushes it hard...still below 100...whack really hard, about 110.
better to have it cool when you don't want it rather than overly hot when you need it .
and yeah...3 coolers a little overkill. 2 good coolers more than enough
#31
I dunno about 60-70 degrees being ok for normal driving. From what I understand, an optimal temp of 80 over degrees is best for the car even in normal driving situations.
Below the optimal temp, there is more wear on the engine parts as the oil is not hot enough to flow properly so my advice is dun whack your car until temp reaches 80 degrees and above for longevity of engine.
High temp also no good...temp should not exceed 120 degrees. In fact, on the dyno, I notice that we get max power at about 85-90 degrees and anything above or below tat temp, power level drop by as much as 20hp.
Below the optimal temp, there is more wear on the engine parts as the oil is not hot enough to flow properly so my advice is dun whack your car until temp reaches 80 degrees and above for longevity of engine.
High temp also no good...temp should not exceed 120 degrees. In fact, on the dyno, I notice that we get max power at about 85-90 degrees and anything above or below tat temp, power level drop by as much as 20hp.
#32
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yup...true....the best range is about that range.
with 2 oil cooler...day time driving shd avg about 75-85. night time driving is 70-80 (most of the time). The only time one should get below 70 is when it is raining or very cooling air.
and you are spot on with the max power range....but what the heck...anything below 110 when you whack the car really hard is good enough.
with 2 oil cooler...day time driving shd avg about 75-85. night time driving is 70-80 (most of the time). The only time one should get below 70 is when it is raining or very cooling air.
and you are spot on with the max power range....but what the heck...anything below 110 when you whack the car really hard is good enough.
#33
well, personally i've did something which actually save my 6MT fuel.
first, I changed to RP Supercat, it gives me 20km (only) more per fuel tank.
secondly, i change to another engine oil which give me another 20km (only) more per fuel tank.
thirdly, i removed the plastic cover which blocks the front of the intake. And this gives me 40km more per fuel tank.
Now i'm pretty happy with my FC, 8.5km/l.
first, I changed to RP Supercat, it gives me 20km (only) more per fuel tank.
secondly, i change to another engine oil which give me another 20km (only) more per fuel tank.
thirdly, i removed the plastic cover which blocks the front of the intake. And this gives me 40km more per fuel tank.
Now i'm pretty happy with my FC, 8.5km/l.
it'l be great if you can post a pic to show us what you mean.
thanks.
#34
i think thats the grill. U got to drop ur bumper to remove that.
amazingly it gives me 40km more per tank!!!
I removed it when I change to MS bumper, it couldn't be the MS bumber which gives me 40km right? so it must be the grill.
I'll snap it to make sure u guys know which grill i'm talking abt.
amazingly it gives me 40km more per tank!!!
I removed it when I change to MS bumper, it couldn't be the MS bumber which gives me 40km right? so it must be the grill.
I'll snap it to make sure u guys know which grill i'm talking abt.
#35
borrowed a picture from a bro here, hope its not copy righted!
Thats the plastic cover I mentioned. Not sure why, but I see the FC immediately improve after removing it.
It is blocking the stock intake from getting cold air.
Thats the plastic cover I mentioned. Not sure why, but I see the FC immediately improve after removing it.
It is blocking the stock intake from getting cold air.
#36
tnx for pointing that out.
40 km is a major difference. its almost 1 and a half weekday driving extra for me.
so anyone knows what is the purpose of that plastic thingy in the first place?
40 km is a major difference. its almost 1 and a half weekday driving extra for me.
so anyone knows what is the purpose of that plastic thingy in the first place?
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