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#51
Originally Posted by rayshaw23
wow, and i thought mine is low already. my auto makes about 370km for every pump. can other auto owners share ur FC?
#52
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I'm getting about 310 avg b4 light's on (City Drivin > 70%) / 350 avg ( H/W drivin > 70% )
Heavy footed or not gives about the same unless its floor d mf every chance i get from full tank to empty = 270
$$$ fly away so fast, might as well, Life's Short... 6SPD JDM
Heavy footed or not gives about the same unless its floor d mf every chance i get from full tank to empty = 270
$$$ fly away so fast, might as well, Life's Short... 6SPD JDM
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well sometime it depend on if you ferry people much too... there are times when i need to ferry 3 other passengers in long distance drive. And that tank of petrol would barely make 320km when normally it gets 360km.
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Originally Posted by rayshaw23
wow, and i thought mine is low already. my auto makes about 370km for every pump. can other auto owners share ur FC?
Best FC - 300km :D
Worst FC - 200km
Is it true that V-Power gives lower FC???
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Originally Posted by CaNNaVaR0
yup... this is normal...
i dunno why the system is designed this way but when i switch to auto
it will change to the intake air from outside.
i still looking for aircon filter replacement
anyone got cheap good deal?
i dunno why the system is designed this way but when i switch to auto
it will change to the intake air from outside.
i still looking for aircon filter replacement
anyone got cheap good deal?
But I personally feel that the climate control is useless. When it is warm the fan is always turned to full blast. That is quite useless as it is just blowing air. The coils cannot cool fast enough. Using manual control i can adjust it to 3-4 columns and it is much better and without the irritating fan sound.
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Originally Posted by Naughty Boy
Me X auto & always drinks V-Power. Records:
Best FC - 300km :D
Worst FC - 200km
Is it true that V-Power gives lower FC???
Best FC - 300km :D
Worst FC - 200km
Is it true that V-Power gives lower FC???
Mine can normally drive to 450km b4 the low fuel light come on. Sometimes lesser abt 430 or sometimes more at 480. That works out to be above 8km/l and sometimes even close to 9. I use caltex or shell 95.
I shift extremely low(abt 51km/h for 5th and 63km/h for 6th to give above 2k rpm). But each day i would drive a short while shifting at high rpm(7-9k) for kicks and to stretch the car a bit. Occasionally would shift higher if impatient or 'show off'.
My FC was originally very bad, clocking 7km/l or less b4 my first servicing. Then it improved and now it is reasonably good(compared to other 8s). But the good FC comes only after 10k.
Next, ask yourself about driving style. Imagine if you always accelerate and brake at >100km/h then that could be the problem. Imagine if you never brake at that speed, the amount of petrol you had used to get to that speed could have given you sufficient momentum to go a few hundred metres extra. Every traffic light adds up. Even if you are shifting at low rpm but you tend to speed and brake hard, it is still not going to improve FC.
#57
Originally Posted by Manwe
I think V power gives reasonably good FC. But it is too expensive in my opinion. Try 95. It has better energy density. Should give better FC.
Mine can normally drive to 450km b4 the low fuel light come on. Sometimes lesser abt 430 or sometimes more at 480. That works out to be above 8km/l and sometimes even close to 9. I use caltex or shell 95.
I shift extremely low(abt 51km/h for 5th and 63km/h for 6th to give above 2k rpm). But each day i would drive a short while shifting at high rpm(7-9k) for kicks and to stretch the car a bit. Occasionally would shift higher if impatient or 'show off'.
My FC was originally very bad, clocking 7km/l or less b4 my first servicing. Then it improved and now it is reasonably good(compared to other 8s). But the good FC comes only after 10k.
Next, ask yourself about driving style. Imagine if you always accelerate and brake at >100km/h then that could be the problem. Imagine if you never brake at that speed, the amount of petrol you had used to get to that speed could have given you sufficient momentum to go a few hundred metres extra. Every traffic light adds up. Even if you are shifting at low rpm but you tend to speed and brake hard, it is still not going to improve FC.
Mine can normally drive to 450km b4 the low fuel light come on. Sometimes lesser abt 430 or sometimes more at 480. That works out to be above 8km/l and sometimes even close to 9. I use caltex or shell 95.
I shift extremely low(abt 51km/h for 5th and 63km/h for 6th to give above 2k rpm). But each day i would drive a short while shifting at high rpm(7-9k) for kicks and to stretch the car a bit. Occasionally would shift higher if impatient or 'show off'.
My FC was originally very bad, clocking 7km/l or less b4 my first servicing. Then it improved and now it is reasonably good(compared to other 8s). But the good FC comes only after 10k.
Next, ask yourself about driving style. Imagine if you always accelerate and brake at >100km/h then that could be the problem. Imagine if you never brake at that speed, the amount of petrol you had used to get to that speed could have given you sufficient momentum to go a few hundred metres extra. Every traffic light adds up. Even if you are shifting at low rpm but you tend to speed and brake hard, it is still not going to improve FC.
#59
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sgren, why would you be hurting your car if you use 95?? It was designed for it. If it's really just about numbers, why stop at v-power? You should be using fuel additives with every tank of gas. Seriously tho, don't get too caught up with all that. You won't be hurting anything by using 95 petrol.
#60
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I don't think the JDM models was design to run that efficiently on 95, I tot because it's still Jap specs it's design for a much higher octane. Or is my understanding wrong.
#61
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Normally a car is tuned for the octane of the specific market based on the highest octane you can get THROUGHOUT the region. If JDM models are not designed for 95 octane (which is pretty decent by world standards), then petrol HIGHER than 95 octane must be available throughout Japan, even in remote areas. I don't know for sure, but I seriously doubt that. Since yours is JDM, check your owner's manual and let us know what you find.
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Originally Posted by sqflyer
Normally a car is tuned for the octane of the specific market based on the highest octane you can get THROUGHOUT the region. If JDM models are not designed for 95 octane (which is pretty decent by world standards), then petrol HIGHER than 95 octane must be available throughout Japan, even in remote areas. I don't know for sure, but I seriously doubt that. Since yours is JDM, check your owner's manual and let us know what you find.
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Originally Posted by lohsk
From what I heard, Japan has octane at 100. Not sure if it's MON or RON values...
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I don't think wide availability is important. I know for a fact that RON 100 is available in Japan and JDM sports cars would be tuned to make use of up to RON 100. I'm not absolutely sure about the JDM RX8 since the user manual is in Japanese and I could not find any reference to 'RON' or 'octane' or any numbers that look like a fuel rating.
All modern cars can accept a range of RON or octane. Electronic engine management will adjust the timing to capitalize on the anti-knock properties of the fuel to ignite at the most efficient point and produce the rated power. If it's rated for up to RON 100 I believe it will output the 250PS for RON 100. Lower RON will be acceptable but the timing will be adjusted and will produce a couple PS less. No harm unless you go below the lowest RON in the range in the engine spec. Unfortunately I cannot read the range spec in the Japanese manual. My wild guess is RON 95 to 100.
Note that the US manual states : "Recommended RON 96 and above. RON 91 to RON 95 may be used with slight reduction in performance." That is for the detuned US market.
-Ringer-
All modern cars can accept a range of RON or octane. Electronic engine management will adjust the timing to capitalize on the anti-knock properties of the fuel to ignite at the most efficient point and produce the rated power. If it's rated for up to RON 100 I believe it will output the 250PS for RON 100. Lower RON will be acceptable but the timing will be adjusted and will produce a couple PS less. No harm unless you go below the lowest RON in the range in the engine spec. Unfortunately I cannot read the range spec in the Japanese manual. My wild guess is RON 95 to 100.
Note that the US manual states : "Recommended RON 96 and above. RON 91 to RON 95 may be used with slight reduction in performance." That is for the detuned US market.
-Ringer-
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More thoughts :
If you use lower than the lowest RON in the acceptable range spec it will cause engine knocking leading to permanent engine damage. You may also mess up the CAT.
I personally use Esso 98. Runs fine, feels and sounds fine. Haven't tried RON 95, didn't think it's a great big deal and cost difference is minimal. I get about 6.5 -6.8 km/l (mostly city). When I am away for long trips and my daughter is the exclusive driver she gets 7.5+ km/l. It's all in the driving style and the routing (highways vs city).
I wish Caltex will re-introduce the RON 100 that they marketed a few years ago. Then I can try to attain and feel the rated max 250PS. Of course I have no way to measure it but it will be fun just to see how it feels.
I have tried V-power in my previous car and found it delivers an inconsistent performance - power surge but then sometimes seem to drop into a power trough. FC was higher too.
-Ringer-
If you use lower than the lowest RON in the acceptable range spec it will cause engine knocking leading to permanent engine damage. You may also mess up the CAT.
I personally use Esso 98. Runs fine, feels and sounds fine. Haven't tried RON 95, didn't think it's a great big deal and cost difference is minimal. I get about 6.5 -6.8 km/l (mostly city). When I am away for long trips and my daughter is the exclusive driver she gets 7.5+ km/l. It's all in the driving style and the routing (highways vs city).
I wish Caltex will re-introduce the RON 100 that they marketed a few years ago. Then I can try to attain and feel the rated max 250PS. Of course I have no way to measure it but it will be fun just to see how it feels.
I have tried V-power in my previous car and found it delivers an inconsistent performance - power surge but then sometimes seem to drop into a power trough. FC was higher too.
-Ringer-
#67
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well said...
No harm using 95 n 98 or even v power. But say i use 95 for 100 years n v power for 100 years, will there be any dmg done?
maybe, maybe not... its ur money end of the day
No harm using 95 n 98 or even v power. But say i use 95 for 100 years n v power for 100 years, will there be any dmg done?
maybe, maybe not... its ur money end of the day
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Correct me if I am wrong but V power seems to be plain 98 with more addictives.
Normally in the design, the car can take higher octane but not lower. Lower octane would cause knockings and that could cause damages in the chamber/piston etc and for our case rotor.
As long as we use the minimum rating, there will be no knocking and there shouldn't be any damage to the engine.
Normally in the design, the car can take higher octane but not lower. Lower octane would cause knockings and that could cause damages in the chamber/piston etc and for our case rotor.
As long as we use the minimum rating, there will be no knocking and there shouldn't be any damage to the engine.
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Yes indeed V-power is just RON 98 with more additives (not addictive lah in case you want to sniff it ). I think too much additives can cause a problem with new and high tech engines that do not need it. Usually the enhanced package includes cleaning agents and diffusers that benefit old and dirty engines so some users will feel a fantastic "improvement". Clean and well managed engines may react inconsistently with this concoction. More additives also = less petrol content?? I asked this of knowledgeable people in the oil industry but they dismissed me by saying the amount is just in the ppm. Whatever, I still believe it's counter productive.
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-Ringer-
#72
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Originally Posted by Ringer
Yes indeed V-power is just RON 98 with more additives (not addictive lah in case you want to sniff it ). I think too much additives can cause a problem with new and high tech engines that do not need it. Usually the enhanced package includes cleaning agents and diffusers that benefit old and dirty engines so some users will feel a fantastic "improvement". Clean and well managed engines may react inconsistently with this concoction. More additives also = less petrol content?? I asked this of knowledgeable people in the oil industry but they dismissed me by saying the amount is just in the ppm. Whatever, I still believe it's counter productive.
-Ringer-
-Ringer-
I don't think you really need that much detergent as 8 is rotary engine as opposed to piston and thus wouldn't have the carbon build up on piston. V power may be good after a couple months of driving but then again... all other fuel also have added detergent. So the benefits may be unnoticeable.