Time to replace the DRL again?
Hey guys.
I repaired my DRL module yesterday.
A little troubleshooting and tracing signal paths. The two small relays on the module turn out to be the ones that switch the high beam bulbs between series operation for DRL and normal operation for high beam.
Then sourcing the new relays - (turned out to be the hardest part)
Replaced the CQ1-12V relays yesterday and everything works like normal. You need to be able to de-solder and solder to replace them. Some good solder wick helps a lot.
I have extra relays; they cost me about $5 each so this is not an expensive repair.
Anyone want a DIY?
I repaired my DRL module yesterday.
A little troubleshooting and tracing signal paths. The two small relays on the module turn out to be the ones that switch the high beam bulbs between series operation for DRL and normal operation for high beam.
Then sourcing the new relays - (turned out to be the hardest part)
Replaced the CQ1-12V relays yesterday and everything works like normal. You need to be able to de-solder and solder to replace them. Some good solder wick helps a lot.
I have extra relays; they cost me about $5 each so this is not an expensive repair.
Anyone want a DIY?
Last edited by DarkBrew; Aug 31, 2010 at 10:17 AM.
My running lights also failed and they replaced the same thing. Things are good so far. Car is only 3yrs old.
I got curious today to see what happened inside the failed relay....
So I cut off the plastic cover.
This is what I found

Another relay mounted on a metal frame. It was wrapped in a foam cover - it's a low noise relay...
Tomorrow I'll dig into the inner relay - trying to get to the contacts
So I cut off the plastic cover.
This is what I found

Another relay mounted on a metal frame. It was wrapped in a foam cover - it's a low noise relay...
Tomorrow I'll dig into the inner relay - trying to get to the contacts
Last edited by DarkBrew; Aug 31, 2010 at 09:21 PM.
Their job is to switch the high beam current into series for DRL.
Here's the data sheet
http://pewa.panasonic.com/pcsd/produ...ech_eng_cq.pdf
The one inside is ACP131 M12P
Last edited by DarkBrew; Aug 31, 2010 at 10:54 PM.
I think something else may be happening to these relays unless they're just a weak design. I'll take pics of the contacts and that should tell us something about the failure mode
Did you notice anything else that would cause them to blow...those relays should last better than that ??
I have to reverse engineer more of the schematic...
Design flaw? The module looks well made but is rather complex with many inputs signals...
Maybe there is a heavy surge or in-rush current?
Edit:
Took one relay apart. The NC side is heavily damaged from arcing.... the NO side looks good....?
Does anyone have a failing DRL module they can give me to look at?
I need to gather some more data and create a DIY for relay replacement.
I'll give it back to you and if it's repairable you can just pay me $10 for the relays.
Design flaw? The module looks well made but is rather complex with many inputs signals...
Maybe there is a heavy surge or in-rush current?
Edit:
Took one relay apart. The NC side is heavily damaged from arcing.... the NO side looks good....?
Does anyone have a failing DRL module they can give me to look at?
I need to gather some more data and create a DIY for relay replacement.
I'll give it back to you and if it's repairable you can just pay me $10 for the relays.
Last edited by DarkBrew; Sep 2, 2010 at 09:02 AM.
if someone knows how to bypass it to run like a yank mobile you can have mine. just replaced. 4th one. so gae that I'd rather not have it and give it to someone that wants it.
Dodging those Corollas
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
Dark,
Is it running 5A between COM and NC for the half power daytime running lights, and then when you switch to high beams, it runs 10A between COM and NO?
Is it running 5A between COM and NC for the half power daytime running lights, and then when you switch to high beams, it runs 10A between COM and NO?
Well, at 14V and 55W we should be around 4A for each of the high beams and half that for DRL when the lights are in series.
i've got a related problem. my high beams don't work at all. my running lights don't come on either when i'm driving BUT i know they work because when i hit my alarm they blink a few times. i was going to replace the DRL/high beam bulbs but i don't see any point in that because they work when i arm/disarm my alarm.
any help would be greatly appreciated!
any help would be greatly appreciated!
i've got a related problem. my high beams don't work at all. my running lights don't come on either when i'm driving BUT i know they work because when i hit my alarm they blink a few times. i was going to replace the DRL/high beam bulbs but i don't see any point in that because they work when i arm/disarm my alarm.
any help would be greatly appreciated!
any help would be greatly appreciated!
Pull your high beam bulbs and visually inspect them to see if they are okay.
If they are good and the high beams and/or DRLs no longer work then it's your module.
just to be clear....my DRL's blink when i arm/disarm my alarm. (i have an aftermarket alarm). my understanding is that the DRL and high beams are the same bulb? would this be a module issue then?
Had this problem 2 years ago. You can take a failed DRL module and make the car into a non-DRL car. Basically it involves desoldering the relays, soldering in bypass wires. The final step is to remove the pin for the handbrake sensor(from the DRL module) so that the DRL module thinks the handrake is always pulled.
I've attached the schematic that I've reverse engineered so far (sorry about the quality, was working night shifts when this broke and didn't have much time to do a good job).
DarkBrew if you are writing a DIY pm me and I can give you all the details I have.
I've attached the schematic that I've reverse engineered so far (sorry about the quality, was working night shifts when this broke and didn't have much time to do a good job).
DarkBrew if you are writing a DIY pm me and I can give you all the details I have.



They must only run very low current through them
