There is no way I would ever drive the car like that, danger, danger . . . If the wheel is somehow hung up in the centering lip on the hub or something and you hit a bump that happens seat it you will have 0 ft/lbs of torque on all your lug nuts. It's a bummer to have your wheel pass you going down the road . . . That wheel should be perfectly flush with the rotor hat, i.e. there are contact points where the two meet between each of the studs, you should be able to see a pattern where they contacted originally (corrosion an possibly anti-seize compound).

In terms of the lug nuts being so tight, it can't be excessive corrosion on any of these cars at this point . . . Someone probably took an impact gun good for probably 350 ft/lbs with no torque limiter and tightened them. That risks damaging the rotors and the wheels. I would be very hesitant to ever return to the place that did that other than to complain, alloy wheels should be tightened by hand with a torque wrench period . . .

You can get those wheels off as follows if you really want to. Get a cheap 1/2" breaker bar, a deep 1/2" impact socket that fits the lug nuts and a 5-6 foot chunk of galvanized fence post (the small diamer one for chain link fences) to slide over the breaker bar handle. Leave the car on the ground and break all the nuts free then jack it up. Loosening the nuts when they are super tight like that will make some pretty awful screeching sounds, very scary but it works . . .

 

the lugs I can get off, but not the lock nuts.

Im pretty sure the reason is that my locknut key seems stripped so it wont hold in the lock lug.


Pain in the ***

 

^^ take it to any good tire shop...there are tools made to get them off without ruining them.....Snap-on makes good ones...I've used them before and they work great...

 

BOOYAW, yeah you guys were right.

there was a nice little spacer form ym winter wheel in the inner most part of my hub.


Got it off, and everythings all good........Plus I installed my RP short shifter :-D