Brake/Turn Lights Acting funny
Brake/Turn Lights Acting funny
My right round brake light does not work and the right rear turn signal doesn't either. Initially I just assumed it was the bulbs. But last night I noticed something when you turn on the right turn signal, the round brake light flashes lightly. Could it be a relay or something? Or should I just replace the bulbs and see what happens? Thanks.
thewird
thewird
check that the right bulbs are installed. some weird things happen if you put double filiment bulbs where a single filement bulb should be (and vice versa)
also....didnt you like JUST buy this car? it needs to have all factory equipped lights working to pass a safety.....
also....didnt you like JUST buy this car? it needs to have all factory equipped lights working to pass a safety.....
Last edited by rotarygreg; Jan 7, 2010 at 11:29 AM.
check that the right bulbs are installed. some weird things happen if you put double filiment bulbs where a single filement bulb should be (and vice versa)
also....didnt you like JUST buy this car? it needs to have all factory equipped lights working to pass a safety.....
also....didnt you like JUST buy this car? it needs to have all factory equipped lights working to pass a safety.....
I'm planning on disconnecting the VFAD when it gets warmer. The stupid thing makes the car feel like theres a small turbo on the car that opens up at high RPM but robs power at low RPM. Well it actually feels like theres 2 turbo's, one at 5.5k (VFAD) and another at ~6.5k which I assume are the secondary ports opening so I can't really fix the second one.
thewird
Well I figured out why it was funny. The whole thing was a mess.
The turn signal connector was in the brake hole
The brake light connector was in the reverse hole
The reverse light connector was in the turn signal hole
The bulbs between the turn signal connector and the brake light connector were reversed
So I put everything back the way it should be and no bulbs are burnt at all. However, the brake light connector does not fit in the hole and the turn signal connector is too small for the hole. So for some reason the whole unit was removed at some point and the holes swapped I'm guessing o.O. Anyone know how to remove the unit?
thewird
The turn signal connector was in the brake hole
The brake light connector was in the reverse hole
The reverse light connector was in the turn signal hole
The bulbs between the turn signal connector and the brake light connector were reversed
So I put everything back the way it should be and no bulbs are burnt at all. However, the brake light connector does not fit in the hole and the turn signal connector is too small for the hole. So for some reason the whole unit was removed at some point and the holes swapped I'm guessing o.O. Anyone know how to remove the unit?
thewird
Well I figured out why it was funny. The whole thing was a mess.
The turn signal connector was in the brake hole
The brake light connector was in the reverse hole
The reverse light connector was in the turn signal hole
The bulbs between the turn signal connector and the brake light connector were reversed
So I put everything back the way it should be and no bulbs are burnt at all. However, the brake light connector does not fit in the hole and the turn signal connector is too small for the hole. So for some reason the whole unit was removed at some point and the holes swapped I'm guessing o.O. Anyone know how to remove the unit?
thewird
The turn signal connector was in the brake hole
The brake light connector was in the reverse hole
The reverse light connector was in the turn signal hole
The bulbs between the turn signal connector and the brake light connector were reversed
So I put everything back the way it should be and no bulbs are burnt at all. However, the brake light connector does not fit in the hole and the turn signal connector is too small for the hole. So for some reason the whole unit was removed at some point and the holes swapped I'm guessing o.O. Anyone know how to remove the unit?
thewird
Sorry to break you the bad news, but removing the VFAD won't make a lick of difference. The bad throttle response is just the way the car was designed. The gearbox ratio is geared very optimistically, as if the engine puts out 180 lb/ft of torque coming off idle. The car will always feel like you're one gear too high when you're not spanking on it. Good thing you bought this car to put a turbo in lol.
Sorry to break you the bad news, but removing the VFAD won't make a lick of difference. The bad throttle response is just the way the car was designed. The gearbox ratio is geared very optimistically, as if the engine puts out 180 lb/ft of torque coming off idle. The car will always feel like you're one gear too high when you're not spanking on it. Good thing you bought this car to put a turbo in lol.
thewird
The auxiliary port opens at 6000 rpm, that's probably what you are feeling. VFAD is strictly a noise control device, it has virtually no effect on hp.
Secondary port opens at 3750 rpm. 7250 rpm is when the variable intake duct thing kicks in. 5500 rpm is VFAD.
The Racing Beat REVI intake homepage gives a pretty good account of the experiments they did on the OEM intake design. Basically when they deleted the VFAD piping and switched to the REVI airbox, they found no gain in the lower rpm, and only 3.5-5hp gain in the last couple hundred rpms before the redline. So intake restriction is a non-issue until you hit 8000 rpm+ with the OEM system.
There is a really quick way to disable the VFAD if you want to try it out. Just find the green electrical connector that controls the solenoid-acuated VFAD flap. When you unplug it, VFAD is stuck wide open at all rpm. The Mazda engineers even included a dummy blank plug for you to plug your now useless VFAD plug into (you'll see what I mean when you do it). I don't know how they managed to sneak that big F-ck You dummy plug into the final design, but it always cracks me up when I see it. Nerdy engineering prank at it's finest.
Here's the Racing beat page on the OEM intake: http://www.racingbeat.com/REVi.htm
Secondary port opens at 3750 rpm. 7250 rpm is when the variable intake duct thing kicks in. 5500 rpm is VFAD.
The Racing Beat REVI intake homepage gives a pretty good account of the experiments they did on the OEM intake design. Basically when they deleted the VFAD piping and switched to the REVI airbox, they found no gain in the lower rpm, and only 3.5-5hp gain in the last couple hundred rpms before the redline. So intake restriction is a non-issue until you hit 8000 rpm+ with the OEM system.
There is a really quick way to disable the VFAD if you want to try it out. Just find the green electrical connector that controls the solenoid-acuated VFAD flap. When you unplug it, VFAD is stuck wide open at all rpm. The Mazda engineers even included a dummy blank plug for you to plug your now useless VFAD plug into (you'll see what I mean when you do it). I don't know how they managed to sneak that big F-ck You dummy plug into the final design, but it always cracks me up when I see it. Nerdy engineering prank at it's finest.
Here's the Racing beat page on the OEM intake: http://www.racingbeat.com/REVi.htm
Last edited by climacus; Jan 8, 2010 at 10:47 PM.
Ok guys I need a little help. I pulled off the headlight assembly and found out it wasn't as I had imagined it. You can't just swap the holes, it seems to be a solid piece. Are the headlight assemblies different between years? All I can say is what the hell lol. Like I said the connectors/bulbs are too big for the brake light and turn signal light. Little help lol.


thewird


thewird
thats odd man. i dont think there is anything different between years accept the 09s have a completely different lamp assembly. but that would be pretty obvious. do none of the plugs fit any of the holes? or is it just that the correct ones are fitting in the wrong holes? What im getting at, if its the latter option, then you can simply switch the ends either by pulling them apart or clipping the wires and soldering the correct ends for each bulb on the correct wires. is there any evidence of someone having tampered with these before? or an accident that was repaired at a shady body shop. lol.
One of the plastic pull-out pins was missing form the center piece on the trunk (the first piece you get to remove the bulbs). And one of the plastic pins are broken on the lamp assembly (I didn't break it I'm sure). It seems to somehow have been shrunken with heat. So that gave me an idea...
I didn't want to buy a new lamp assembly so I pulled out the old soldering iron and this was my solution
. Fits like a glove ^_^ The other side only needed a touchup so I didn't bother taking a picture.


thewird
I didn't want to buy a new lamp assembly so I pulled out the old soldering iron and this was my solution
. Fits like a glove ^_^ The other side only needed a touchup so I didn't bother taking a picture.

thewird
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