Not really, I've been doing it since October 2000. It used to be easier when I had a Palm Pilot and software to input as I carried it around with me. The current system is write on the receipt, which has L and price/L on, my trip counter, reset the trip to 0, start engine. When I get home or work I enter the details into a spreadsheet, this gives me lots of different calculations and graphs. When I get some time I'm planning on writing a pocket PC tracking system that will export to Excel.

Hard to tell. I usually wait until the warning light comes on and then visit a petrol station at the next convenient point. I know that when the light comes on there is at least 10L in the tank (from experience) so I can travel between 50 and 75Km.

The most I've ever put in was 60.16L and it is usually 53-54L.

 

You all know where I stand on this one!

After almost 30,000km on 91RON I'm totally happy with economy and power. I don't think I am losing out on anything (except less money leaving my wallet at the pump each week).

 

ran the remaining caltex almost empty tonight and filled up with bp, im happy with and will never touch caltex again... well not on the 8 anyway

 

Dan

There is a 60% chance that if you get married you may in up divorcing at some stage leaving your X with a percentage of your hard earned flying dollars , so why bother trying to save a few cents on petrol :p

cheers
michael

 

Rotaries traditionally perform better on lower octane fuel, and that is the reason I switched in the first place. There are many threads and people on this forum that support this argument. Saving an average of 8-10c/litre is a bonus.

I'm not phased at all that most guys here will never stray from Premium, but I think it's worth keeping everyones eyes open to the other possibilities. Not everything Mazda says is gospel.... hell some people wont even take their car to a Mazda dealership any more, so why trust them on this?

 

Really??? why is that??
I'm more than willing to try different things if there is sounds logic behind it.

 

is there a "settling in" period for switching from rich 98RON fuel to less-rish normal unleaded fuel? do you have to reset the ecu?
i have tried the 95 and cant tell the diff from the 98 fuel.

EDIT: on the subject of resetting the ECU, will you still be able to retain the new re-flashed program.... im my case, i have gone from F to G code, so if i reset my ECU, will i still be able to run on G code?

true that, even ppl work at mazda told me that too :p

 

resetting wont effect your flash.
I recomend resetting the ecu when changing down to 95ron. my car was running a little rough and the reset smothed it out.

 

That's intertesting.. It suggests that there is a difference... We have only used 98 in our car, but during the cruise we may have to use 95 as 98 is not generally available away from the coast..

 

Something to do with the longer flame propogation length and the burn rate of the fuel.

Renesis has a little more compression than the earlier rotaries. I recall reading that Curtiss Wright did a bunch of octane research.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

Basically lower octane fuel burns faster and hence more completely in the combustion chamber. Also, there are less additives in regular unleaded and hence more actual fuel. There's plenty of info on this already on the forum and the internet if you search for it. Here is a sample: