Interesting.. My car stumbles just a little bit above 5000 feet if I catch it "off pipe". Fuel...
Hmm.

Vince

 

Hi,

the first one was stock map. I think the 5k-5.5k is close loop for me. Any Idea?

The second graph is wat I working right now. Please advice. thanks

nhk

Note: I only start tunning after 5.6K->8.6k

 

Please advise what.. haha.. Dang that looks good. It's my goal to hit 13.2 to 13.7 as you did and fall quickly back to the 11 range after 7800.

Whats wrong with it?

The tuning parameters do not kick in until 5,500.

 

from the stock map, I found out that my car A/F already around 13.7 range before 5.5k. So i only activate cz after 5.6k. Btw I used the Second stage as the based for my tunning.

" fall quickly back to the 11 range after 7800"
Do u meant ur map or my map?

nhk

 

I was talking about my car, but in general it's a good practice to aim for your AFR to get richer as the RPM's start to pass 7500 RPM. This is because you will risk the car starting to ping if you aim for a AFR that is too high in the upper RPM range. That is why I said that my goal was to bring my AFR back to around 11 after the 7800 RPM range.

The reason for this is because the stock ECU is in a closed loop setting until 5,500 RPM attempting to reach the stoich AFR. Stoich is just a term used to define the optimum RPM in a closed loop activity. For our car it's around 14.5 AFR until 5,500 RPM and then you are allowed to change the AFR after this point.

 

for my case, I will try to get a smooth 13.5-13.7 before 8k, then down to 12.X for 8.4k.

Will the weather changed (winter -> summer) affect the A/F? if so, the hoter it go, the higher or the lowe the A/F is?

 

Well.. I would imagine that your AFR would go down because your getting less air into the engine due to the fact that it's less dense than it would be under colder conditions..

I'll let someone else answer that though...

Is it just me, or do you have to calibrate your CZ every time you make a change. The process that I go through when I make a change is to update the map, export it to the CZ unit, shutdown software and reopen, Import existing map. The reason why I reimport it is to make sure that my changes updated to the CZ unit.

it seems like when I do this my car has issues until I recalibrate my throttle...

Make any sense?

 

actually I have the question about do we need to recalibrate the map (throtlte) after u update the map...

Let me see whether tonight I got time or not. I might make some experiment using the same map. (w and w/o thottle calibration after export the map).

I did export the map, then recalibrate (throttle) it and export it again. I am not sure this is the right way

According to here, we just need to calibrate at least the first time
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=62

 

I only calibrated my throttle once. If you do map trace, you can make sure it's on the proper cells that it's supposed to. I think there is also a live display that shows throttle position.

btw, nkh, you have the best map that i've ever seen. Maybe you should be giving the rest of us pointers

 

Jason,

I started with using ur Map and the information on your website, It is pretty helpful for me. (sharing cz map and this website pretty helpful 2)

1. Living in San Jose, besides highway 101, 680, 880 is pretty useful for me to collect my OBD data since the speed limit is 65 miles (normally traffic flow is 80 mph).

2. if it is lower than 13.2, I will add 10 unit in the air flow.
else if it is over the 13.7 I will lower it by 3 unit,
else if it is within the 13.2-13.7 I will add 3-5 unit depends how close is it.

3. if it is already reach 50, I will add in the timming map by 1 unit.

Note: I still based on your map. I am not sure it helps or not.

thnks

 

So how does it feel? Any plans to dyno it?

 

I will dyno it since the weather is allowed. Hmmm .. Properly I wil goto dynospotracing since I used to dyno tuned my supercharged teg there

 

Off-topic, but I'm about to buy a 10ft USB extension cable.

What kind of cord should I buy?

A to A or A to B?

Male to Male or Male to Female?

A bit confused.

 

Male to Female.

 

bought 2 of these 6 footers... A to A, M/F

A is the more common 6-pin connector, B is the mini 4-pin. And yes, it must be male/female - its an extension cable...

http://www.ecost.com/ecost/shop/detail.asp?dpno=401929

 

Dang...I just found my old laptop's battery is dead.

Oh...My laptop is just on using just AC adapter.

But, I'm willing to tune it in a car, so I guess I should buy "power inverter" or something.

http://www.dcacpowerinverters.com/itemdesc.asp?CartId={424FBB8A-89AA-4C93-A859-CCF89800EVEREST5EB4}&ic=AED75

Will this one ever work?

 

Question:

Why is the "Ideal AFR" line so erratic. Seems to fluctuate randomly between 13.2 and 13.7. Is there any basis for this?

 

aesculapius, yeah, it's just for refrence. the bottom of that line is the safe target afr, the top is the leaner more extreme afr. I just alternated it instead of adding a second line.

 

I am curious, is the AFR a measured or calculated value?

Because, if it's calculated, why couldn't the software be configured so you could enter the desired AFR directly? It seems that in the "closed loop" phase, the ECU tries to acheive a specific AFR.

 

I have downloded the .xls files but the macros are disabled or can't be found. Does anyone have the macros they can send me or is there a excel file that has the macros in it and will download "with " the excel file? I want an excel file that will convert my .lgi and .lgd file or .log files to graphs/charts. Thanx

 

Which XLS do you have?

 

I have the canscan_graph-test.xls, canscan_graph.xls and the EmanageDataConvert.xls.
I thought i should be able to cntrl-C my data from a log file to the .xls file and it would generate a chart because the macros were already set up. IF somebody has the macros to open in the .xls file or the complete .xls file, either would be helpful.

 

You can post the XLS files here for us to review. Simply add .txt to the end of your file names.

Example: canscan_graph-test.xls.txt

 

You have to import the data into the canscan excel file to get the graph. It needs to be tweeked to get rid of the irrelevant data...and kept to 200lines of data to use that file.

What I do is open a new worksheet, in that workbook...and inport the data to it.....copy the relevant data and paste to the "data" sheet....which automatically is converted to the graph.

 

Dan, why did the Canscan stop at 12.05 on my AFR? It's like my car flat-lined

OK, no bad comments - this is a UNTUNED stock PCM map!