I put down W40 as a reference to the weight I'm talking about. Your argument is getting into semantics. Though it may annoy you, it is just as common to type 5W30 and 5w30, as it is to type 5W-30. However you are correct that using the "-" is the proper method.

If you prefer -40, -30, W-40, W-30, etc... than that is fine with me. This does not affect the gist of my argument.

Additives, viscosity index improvers, etc... can be added to affect both sides when you are dealing with synthetic oil. You can make changes to the oil to get 0W-30 or make changes to get 5W-40 and starting from the same base stock.

It is dino oil that is usually chosen at a particular weight before processing. However keep in mind that based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in, for a particular temperature, results in the SAE number of -10, -20, -30. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number. This "viscosity" is subject to manipulation and is not something set in stone, as what you are appearing to refer to. This is why you can manipulate the oil so that the 5W becomes 0W and the W-30 becomes W-40.

However, what people often want is less additives, which is often indicative of a higher quality base stock. Yet this is not necessarily true all the time, that more additives = worse oil, because it depends on what the additives are and how well the oil performs in tests.

 

Here again are some of my general thoughts on the matter:

I personally would recommend using an oil with a higher viscosity. I'd rather 5W30 than 5W20 but would prefer a 40 even more. We use 20W50 in our racing rotaries with great success. The tests used to determine the xxW rating are related to cold startup and how quickly an engine can be brought to temps.This is related to emissions even more than it is to preventing bearing wear during the cold start. If you're going to use a good conventional oil and change it frequently (3000 miles or better) a 10W40 is a great choice; probably cheaper than a 5W40. If you like synthetics like I do and drive very hard, maybe even with some track time and or have a turbo, I'd say go for something that ends with a 50, whether it's 0W, 5W, 15W or even 20W. All of these oil grades are recommended by 'Mazda' depending on the Country of useage (Not in the US). There is a little horsepower and fuel mileage to be gained from thinner oils and to some degree lower temps (In some situations) but our experience has shown us to err on the part of 'proper' viscosity and always beef up your cooling in other ways, as necessary.

Rick has seen a lot of bearings in the almost 35 years that he's been doing this, not to mention prior to his rotary experience.

Paul.

 

my driving probably requires a xxW60 then






BY THE WAY!!!
THERE IS NO NEED TO DEBATE SYNTHETICS!!

IF YOU WANT TO DO IT RIGHT, BUY A SOHN ADAPTER YOU INFERIOR UNINTELLECTUAL SCUM!

This will allow you to have only fresh 2-stroke/rotary pre-mix being burnt and the synthetic oil will stay in the oiling system and out of the combustion chamber

 

There is also no need to yell...

Inferior unintellectual scum

 

The truth must be known! There are pages upon pages of "debate" that are over a problem that is so easy to fix. It's like arguing about eating and shitting out of either just your mouth or just your ***! There are two separate functions that can't be done properly with just one thing.

 

Ah man ... no.... i won't

 

screw these crap.

Im gonna dump some Mazola into my tank and BE DONE WITH IT !!!!!!!!!






P.S. : Again and Again, as soon as Im done with my 0w30. Im gonna go all the way Redline 5w40 and stay there. Whos with me ?

 

do you have a sohn adapter?

why not 0w40? and go amsoil...

 

thank god you are here to clear this up for us..

all that silly seven stock stuff with the guy from mazda that does not speak much english.. has been solved by you..

how do you do that???

btw, your point is???

beers

 

10 40 good. 20 50 better for the track.. dino vs syn. find that post i know where it is...

i think most of the prudent readers have figured this out...


so...

beers

 

Mazola FTW !

 

combustion chamber related lubrication should be separate from all the other lubrication. you can't use 4-stroke engine oils that are typically made to resist burning off in a rotary combustion chamber that needs the oil to burn off cleanly. the separation can be done via sohn adapter.

my post count looked low and there was a little bit of a synthetic debate starting, sorry if i got a little bit over zealous with it...

 

If you want to tackle the problem with startup wear you might want to consider installing a Pre-oiler. Search and you will find several available, such as:
AMSOIL Pre Oiler

http://ESP-Luber

Canton Accusump Oil Accumulators

I first heard about these years ago but I haven't heard of widespread use of them. They should increase the life of an engine by a lot, especially if you are in a frequent stop-and-start situation. Some claim to help in situations where there may be brief drops in oil pressure from extreme cornering where some systems may not be able to maintain the oil flow.

 

real "race" or "track" cars have engines that last a weekend... maybe a handful of starts and a thousand miles on them before being rebuilt

 

Mazola works! My neighbor uses it in his BMW !

Do you want me to report the results after 3 months?

 

is it diesel?

 

you take me to seriously some times. most of this is well know, but will always be debated.. again again and again..

beers

 

I dunno I just started it not long ago. It works ok I think, it makes my exhaust smells like corn all the time, ahh crap, did I just messed up my cat ? meh. no CEL so I guess its good

Yeah you should report back in 3 months. Maybe I will switch to Olive oil then we can compare our results in 3 months.

 

Well, I'm going to follow the advice given in this thread and go with as follows:

2-3oz Idemitsu Pre-mix per tank.
10W40 Royal Purple Oil

and

Shell V-Power

My recently obtained RX-8 has 52,000 miles on it. It will be interesting to see what I get out of this arrangement.

I'll look into the Sohn adapter as well, but I haven't read up on it enough to see whether it is worthwhile or not.

Thanks Paul, and everyone else who commented in this thread.

 

Hey Razz---I like your Jack Russel---I have 2 of them and they are a hoot!
olddragger

 

What would be the recommendation for guys living in Toronto, NY area?
Should we run a 10W40 oil during the summer, and something like 5w20 w30 in the winter?

I just started premixing, and deicided to drop the ounces to around 4 or 6 per tank, does that sound right?

Is the Sohn Adapter absolutely required with premix, or can I be safe running it through my tank. I dont know how much a new fuel filter costs, but if its a lot more than a sohn adapter, il rather invest in that than a new filter.

 

5w30 at least

Im using 0w30, when my stock pile runs out im gonna go 5w40

5w20 is not good enough for this engine IMO.

 

No, Sohn adapter is NOT required to premix. Most people just add the premix to their gas tank when they fill up. The Sohn adapter allows your OMP to use clean 2-cycle oil in combustion and thereby also also allows you to use synthetic oil in the rest of the engine. The amount of premix you use depends in part on what you're using and in part on what your goals are and whether or not you have an OMP (most here do). Currently, I'm using 3 oz of Idemitsu premix and 1+ oz of FP Plus with every fill-up. I'm thinking of less Idemitsu and a little more FP Plus for greater cleaning. Some people are using just MMO as a one-step premix.

 

We've been doing very extensive oil investigations recently and will have some interesting thoughts to add to this and other threads soon. In a nutshell, today's oils are getting increasingly worse from an engine longevity standpoint.

Paul.

 

it general or just aimed at the rotary?

beers