Restoration and track day preparations
#1
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Restoration and track day preparations
This all started to get the car ready for track days and just a nice driver. I had used the car as a daily driver and it has been a toy for the past 3 years since installing the turbo kit. I didn't take much pictures of the tear down but I think it's obvious what was done...everything was removed!
Thing that are getting done and have been done:
-Sand blasted all parts and underneath of the car (got ride of all the black rubber stuff)
-Seam welded frame rails and all shock and sub frame mounts
-All bushings changing to polly
-Rear sub frame going to aluminum sub frame bushings
-Rear brake bias valve and hydro-brake will be installed
-All new wheel bearing all around
-R3 Bilstein suspension
-Fresh pads and rotors all around
-Turbo manifold, down pipe and mid pipe will be ceramic coated (mid pipe is a RX7.com with cat punched out, cat-back is a new HKS Hi-Power)
-Greddy turbo kit with AEM air intake, changing all hardware to T-Bolts, change silicone couplers to 18 wheeler grade, running BHR coils, 255 Walboro pump, Forge twin-piston BOV.
Engine in need of cleaning! Turbo down pipe and header going to get ceramic coated.
Way easier to move it this way!!!
Thing that are getting done and have been done:
-Sand blasted all parts and underneath of the car (got ride of all the black rubber stuff)
-Seam welded frame rails and all shock and sub frame mounts
-All bushings changing to polly
-Rear sub frame going to aluminum sub frame bushings
-Rear brake bias valve and hydro-brake will be installed
-All new wheel bearing all around
-R3 Bilstein suspension
-Fresh pads and rotors all around
-Turbo manifold, down pipe and mid pipe will be ceramic coated (mid pipe is a RX7.com with cat punched out, cat-back is a new HKS Hi-Power)
-Greddy turbo kit with AEM air intake, changing all hardware to T-Bolts, change silicone couplers to 18 wheeler grade, running BHR coils, 255 Walboro pump, Forge twin-piston BOV.
Engine in need of cleaning! Turbo down pipe and header going to get ceramic coated.
Way easier to move it this way!!!
#3
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seam welding started
We had a spray booth that usually paints 18 wheelers, everything got painted at once
all the inside of the truck, hood, fenders, and door jams where done in black to aide in the color change, never need to worry about those again
Epoxy primer starting to be applied
Hard to see but it's clean!
Back where the fuel tank sits
Back of car
#5
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Nice work so far, but I've got a A few notes and questions.
Why? Did you eliminate the ABS? If not, then it's unnecessary. The car brakes very well with the stock ABS and proportioning. Even with a big brake kit it's not necessary.
For track use with turbo power, I sure hope you're going to be using some sort of race pads and high temperature fluid. Removing the dust shields from behind the rotors helps them run a little cooler as well, plus ducting really helps. I've even got some Sneed4Speed hub adapters and high temp hose that I can't use with my KW coilovers that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price.
For a serious track toy, I'd skip that step and go straight to coilovers. I took out my R3 suspension and replaced it with coilovers for track use.
Are the ball joints and boots all ok on the rear suspension arms? Some boots look a bit tattered in the pictures, in which case I'd want to at very least replace the boots and re-pack them with grease.
Also, have you added any cooling? For me, going to the track when stock at fairly reasonable ambient temperatures, my car was running hotter than I wanted. It took sealing around the radiator and oil coolers, replacing a section of the fender liner behind the oil coolers with mesh for better airflow and cutting out all of the blanked areas in the grille to get the temperatures in check and that's not even in full summer heat.
Good luck with the build.
Why? Did you eliminate the ABS? If not, then it's unnecessary. The car brakes very well with the stock ABS and proportioning. Even with a big brake kit it's not necessary.
For track use with turbo power, I sure hope you're going to be using some sort of race pads and high temperature fluid. Removing the dust shields from behind the rotors helps them run a little cooler as well, plus ducting really helps. I've even got some Sneed4Speed hub adapters and high temp hose that I can't use with my KW coilovers that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price.
For a serious track toy, I'd skip that step and go straight to coilovers. I took out my R3 suspension and replaced it with coilovers for track use.
Are the ball joints and boots all ok on the rear suspension arms? Some boots look a bit tattered in the pictures, in which case I'd want to at very least replace the boots and re-pack them with grease.
Also, have you added any cooling? For me, going to the track when stock at fairly reasonable ambient temperatures, my car was running hotter than I wanted. It took sealing around the radiator and oil coolers, replacing a section of the fender liner behind the oil coolers with mesh for better airflow and cutting out all of the blanked areas in the grille to get the temperatures in check and that's not even in full summer heat.
Good luck with the build.
#6
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Wales, UK
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought I was doing well pottering around under the car with a wire brush and a splash of Vactan & Underbody Seal. This makes me feel woefully inadequate! Good work
#7
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For track use with turbo power, I sure hope you're going to be using some sort of race pads and high temperature fluid. Removing the dust shields from behind the rotors helps them run a little cooler as well, plus ducting really helps. I've even got some Sneed4Speed hub adapters and high temp hose that I can't use with my KW coilovers that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price.
Also, have you added any cooling? For me, going to the track when stock at fairly reasonable ambient temperatures, my car was running hotter than I wanted. It took sealing around the radiator and oil coolers, replacing a section of the fender liner behind the oil coolers with mesh for better airflow and cutting out all of the blanked areas in the grille to get the temperatures in check and that's not even in full summer heat.
Good luck with the build.
Good luck with the build.
Last edited by jay_tibo; 08-06-2015 at 09:07 AM.
#8
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol no worries it's a commitment to strip a car to nothing. Either way you take that stuff off is a pita! Even sandblasting it was difficult to get it all off.
#9
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I haven't done any ducting to the brakes, as the remote reservoir of my KW coilovers would interfere, so I left the ducts off. They are these: RX-8 Brake Cooler Wheel Brackets
As for the hose routing, I had a couple ideas, but never did anything, as I couldn't hook it up to the hubs.
For the sealing, I used some adhesive backed foam tape (window/door weather stripping) for the smaller gaps, I used a little aluminum duct sealing tape where it wouldn't be seen and stuffed pipe insulation stuffed in the larger gaps. I also tied the undertray up to the AC condenser screen to keep it from deflecting down and allowing air around under the radiator.
Relocating the battery and using an AEM intake are common cooling suggestions for NA cars, as it opens up the back of the radiator, making it easier for air to escape as well.
As for the hose routing, I had a couple ideas, but never did anything, as I couldn't hook it up to the hubs.
For the sealing, I used some adhesive backed foam tape (window/door weather stripping) for the smaller gaps, I used a little aluminum duct sealing tape where it wouldn't be seen and stuffed pipe insulation stuffed in the larger gaps. I also tied the undertray up to the AC condenser screen to keep it from deflecting down and allowing air around under the radiator.
Relocating the battery and using an AEM intake are common cooling suggestions for NA cars, as it opens up the back of the radiator, making it easier for air to escape as well.
#10
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't done any ducting to the brakes, as the remote reservoir of my KW coilovers would interfere, so I left the ducts off. They are these: RX-8 Brake Cooler Wheel Brackets
PM me what you want for them if they are just kicking around!
For the sealing, I used some adhesive backed foam tape (window/door weather stripping) for the smaller gaps, I used a little aluminum duct sealing tape where it wouldn't be seen and stuffed pipe insulation stuffed in the larger gaps. I also tied the undertray up to the AC condenser screen to keep it from deflecting down and allowing air around under the radiator.
AEM was already done before the tear down and the battery was next just seem logical, simplifying the engine bay as much as possible. I also have a turbo blanket on the way and will be ceramic coating the exhaust bits to keep under hood temperatures under control.
#12
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So some progress has started! Big reason for the wait was I completely overhauled my garage before bringing the car back home. Fresh paint, new 2-post hoist that required me to modify the ceiling, all new wiring with a stupid amount of lights, fresh new flooring.
I started the work on the car, got fuel lines back on. ABS pump and front brake lines. Master and brake booster, clutch master and upper line. All rear emissions systems, fuel tank and filler neck. Got all the heat shield blasted and re-painted. I've been removing all the stock bushings to start replacing I will be assembling the rear end of the car first.
Picked up a parts car for references and few odd and ends.
Before sandblasting, primer and paint
Before real cleaning!
Before cleaning and painting
Before cleaning
Cleaned up all the old bushing and boots, started installing new stuff!
Parts Car!!
I started the work on the car, got fuel lines back on. ABS pump and front brake lines. Master and brake booster, clutch master and upper line. All rear emissions systems, fuel tank and filler neck. Got all the heat shield blasted and re-painted. I've been removing all the stock bushings to start replacing I will be assembling the rear end of the car first.
Picked up a parts car for references and few odd and ends.
Before sandblasting, primer and paint
Before real cleaning!
Before cleaning and painting
Before cleaning
Cleaned up all the old bushing and boots, started installing new stuff!
Parts Car!!
#14
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a quick update got the rear subframe completed! All Energy suspension bushing kit installed, the kit does not come complete and I ordered one of the arm bushings from Powerflex, they also want you to recycle 2 of the sleeves lucky for me they weren't seized but still I'm not a fan of using used sleeves in new bushings. Diff bushings are Powerflex and so are the sway bar bushings. Subframe bushings were a pita to get the old ones out, all cleaned up with Sikkys aluminum installed. All the arms got a fresh boot with Kawasaki XU high performance grease. There is 0 rust! The cooper color you can see is cooper anti-seize that was applied. Replaced all alignment cam bolts and cam washers along with other stuff that needed to be cut off. 2 new wheel bearings pressed is as well as 2 new axle seals. Rear diff was open and cleaned properly in case any sand made it's way in.
Pretty much a bran new improved rear subframe, installed last night didn't get pic. Next I'll be cleaning up the wiring harness and installing it properly.
Pretty much a bran new improved rear subframe, installed last night didn't get pic. Next I'll be cleaning up the wiring harness and installing it properly.
#16
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry for the lack of updates! I've been way to busy at work. Got the rear sub-frame all together and in. Got the front sub-frame and suspension all done and in. Hydro brake and bias valve are all in and plumbed. Been keeping busy with other toys...
#17
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a quick update no pictures. The parts car I have had factory HID. I search this forum and by multiple people it was clear it would not work and wires where a different size. To said people when you don't know what you a talking about there is no need to chime in!
Not only are the wires the same size, up to the connectors they are the same exact color (note left hand and right hand connectors are different don't mix them up)!! Very easy I used the connectors from the parts car but the connectors from my original headlamps could also have been used. With the HID plugin I disregarded the 3 wires used for the auto level, I can adjust manually like the regular halogen lamps. The ground for the HID bulb and peanut bulb are shared in the connector then split after. Extremely easy to perform and work as they should!
Also on the Mishimoto rad, the fan bolt up nice the lower mounts are perfect but the top mounts had to be modified it was way off, the forum had bad reviews for fitment and I would have to add I needed to fab upper mounts.
Not only are the wires the same size, up to the connectors they are the same exact color (note left hand and right hand connectors are different don't mix them up)!! Very easy I used the connectors from the parts car but the connectors from my original headlamps could also have been used. With the HID plugin I disregarded the 3 wires used for the auto level, I can adjust manually like the regular halogen lamps. The ground for the HID bulb and peanut bulb are shared in the connector then split after. Extremely easy to perform and work as they should!
Also on the Mishimoto rad, the fan bolt up nice the lower mounts are perfect but the top mounts had to be modified it was way off, the forum had bad reviews for fitment and I would have to add I needed to fab upper mounts.
#18
Registered
wow, impressive work.
But it makes me wonder....wouldn't be easier/faster/cheaper to get another car without rust (maybe a rolling chasis with blown engine) and transplant the engine/tranny into it
But it makes me wonder....wouldn't be easier/faster/cheaper to get another car without rust (maybe a rolling chasis with blown engine) and transplant the engine/tranny into it
#19
j_tibo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol always fun with the forum engineers!! Read and think about it again, I did not simply remove rust, I improved all aspects. To change and upgrade all the bushings, and seam weld the frame almost all the same work needs to be done.
#21
OddBall_8
iTrader: (1)
Props to you dude I have rust troubles in my 8 and I have been wanting to restore her but make a her a street monster for the corners but the body would have to be striped all the way down.
Good luck to you and always know I'm very envious :P. Hopefully I'll have the knowledge for this one day and time.
Good luck to you and always know I'm very envious :P. Hopefully I'll have the knowledge for this one day and time.
#22
Registered
I get it. Removing the rust from all the parts and doing the powder coating did not add time to the project.
Last edited by pistonhater; 07-28-2016 at 08:45 AM.
#23
Registered
I just want to say that I really admire what you are doing! I really wish I can do what you are doing with my car! I thought about restoring my Rusty as well, and was unsure where to begin, but now I can just follow after you steps!
How much is all of this costing you? Unless this is your own shop, so it is costing you nothing but the price of that parts car?
Please PM me! I want to learn more about your project! I think I live near you, BTW!
Cheers!
Christopher
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post