Was wondering if anyone has these sways? The front sway bar is 32mm in diameter and 3 way adjustable. The rear sway bar is 19mm in diameter and 2 way adjustable. Wonder how these compare to the tanabes, racing beat and whitelines?

Ordered them on Monday. They haven't arrived yet, let alone put them on the car.
By the way, if you are calling Vivid Racing for these ask for Dan. ;)

From what I remember these are also hollow. That makes them significantly lighter the the whiteline adjustable sways. I am very interested to see how good these sways are.

Fedex will deliver my set of AP sways and links today.
Dan told me they are reusing the factory bushings. Any advantages from replacing them with urethane ones?
Tips for adjusting for them are welcome.
Thanks

Fedex will deliver my set of AP sways and links today.
Dan told me they are reusing the factory bushings. Any advantages from replacing them with urethane ones?
Tips for adjusting for them are welcome.
Thanks
Urethane bushings will allow the sways to react a little faster. Rubber bushings will bend and move under stress. Urethane ones are hard plastic that will take the slop out. And keep the car flatter in the corner.

Thanks, alnielsen
I'll get some urethane bushings and do all at once.

The sways just arrived.


https://home.comcast.net/~nijel/AP/DSC08114.JPG

https://home.comcast.net/~nijel/AP/DSC08115.JPG

https://home.comcast.net/~nijel/AP/DSC08116.JPG




There is no instructions for adjusting them. I really need some advice before get them installed. I suppose shorter front links and using inner sway bar holes will give me less body roll.
Am I correct?

Please, teach me.
Thanks

Mine should be comming in by today. Im also with Sced on adjusitng to what setting will be stiffer or softer.

The closer to the body of the bar you attach the links, the stiffer the reaction you'll get out of the bar. The closer to the end you attach, the softer the reactions.

If you plan on adjusting the bars very often, you might want to pick up some loctite for the future. The ny-lock nuts that AP links come with don't always lock up as well if they go on and off repeatedly.

on a separate note, what's the approximate outer diameter of the front links (the red part, that is)? I've got the AP rear links, and would like to get rid of some of the flex in my front end sway links (currently running stock links with a RB sway bar).

The closer to the body of the bar you attach the links, the stiffer the reaction you'll get out of the bar. The closer to the end you attach, the softer the reactions.

If you plan on adjusting the bars very often, you might want to pick up some loctite for the future. The ny-lock nuts that AP links come with don't always lock up as well if they go on and off repeatedly.

on a separate note, what's the approximate outer diameter of the front links (the red part, that is)? I've got the AP rear links, and would like to get rid of some of the flex in my front end sway links (currently running stock links with a RB sway bar).


Thanks
That's what I thought.
I emailed Agency-Power about the front links length recommendation and here is the replay:

"Thank you for purchasing an Agency-Power product.
If the car is stock height, the ideal setup is adjusting the sway bar so that it is as close to being level as possible. Look at the way the stock part is and try to duplicate it. Then you can adjust to your liking. I hope that was helpful. Good luck.

Regards,


Matt Jobin
Brand Manager
Agency-Power"

My car is lowered with Tein H-Tech springs so I guess I have to level the sway bar in horizontal position. So the end links should be shorter from the stock ones to compensate the lowering?!?! :confused:

Anyway here is some measurements of the AP front links. I hope it helps.

https://home.comcast.net/~nijel/AP/DSC08118.JPG

thanks for the measurements. One last question if you can tell, are the red sectiond of the links made of aluminum or steel?

thanks for the measurements. One last question if you can tell, are the red sectiond of the links made of aluminum or steel?

It's aluminum.

It's aluminum.
Cool...those links must be light (and strong?) and adjustability is a plus. Please report back after install and let us know what you think of the added benefit.

I will install them tomorrow. Got the new greasable urethane bushings too. Did some research and I think I know how to adjust them initially. Will see tomorrow.

Installed them today. Getting the front bar out was easy and no need for a helper at all. Getting the AP bar in was little tricky because of a little longer arms. I used a jack to push it over the lower control arm.
First I installed the rear bar and took a short drive. Getting out of the driveway I felt a big difference, lot of oversteer and DSC in action.
Installed the front bar. Both bars on stiffest settings. The car feels neutral but there is still a tendency to oversteer. Have to play with the settings more. But I think I like it this way.

Now the problems.
The stock bushings can't be reused. You can't fit 32mm AP front bar in the 26mm stock bushings and the 19mm AP rear bar in the 16mm stock bushings. Asking VividRacing(AP) how they did it, I can't.I used urethane bushings from Energy Suspension.
The rear bushings brackets are bigger than the stock ones. I had to bend them a little to get them in place. And of course now the bushing can't get in the bracket. So a little grinding did the job. Works fine.
Second problem. The front bar holes are a little bigger and the sleeve that is suppose to distance the bar from the end link goes in it and there is no way to tighten the link. I tried it this way and there was a lot of metal-to-metal clicks from the suspension. So I put a nut (same as the nuts that came with the link) and threw the sleeve away. Now the bar is tighten between the two nuts. And no clicks anymore. The rear bar is OK but maybe I will replace the sleeves with nuts too.
My car is lowered so I have the front links max shortened and the bar is leveled.
Overall I'm satisfied with the bars despite the problems above. The car really handles much better.