I took my car in today for the heat recall and front lower arm joint recall. They installed the pad above the gas tank, put in the new R flash, and they did nothing with the lower arm joints since I didn't have the "bad" ones.

Driving home I did several WOT runs in 5th gear to see if my AFR's changed due to the new flash. Using my LC-1 to read the AFR's, they're now at 10.5-10.8, compared to 11.8-12.0 before the R-flash. I previously had the M-flash, so I'm not sure which flash (N , P, or R) had the fuel maps adjusted, but it's definitely running rich now.
I'm not worried about it since I'll be installing the interceptor-X soon and it'll bypass the stock ECU fuel maps, no matter what flash I'm on.


Also, I had the CEL popup after 10 miles of driving. Got home and checked it with the CanScan... P0111 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/ Performance Problem.
My CanScan read the intake temp at 190F but the car was idling in the driveway a good 5mins while I hooked up the laptop. I'm guessing it was probably around 150-160F when the CEL popped up.


Anybody else with the Greddy and new R-flash get the intake temp CEL?
I wonder if the R-flash lowered the intake error temp and throw a CEL if higher than a certain value.
I'm sure the 101F weather in TX plus the turbo increasing the temps in the engine bay has something to do with it. I'm going to stick my intake inside the bumper, like Speedrx8er did in this thread and see if that helps.

 

Do you suppose the change in the AFR was due to reseting the LTFT? That would have probably richened it up since the ECU was likely pulling fuel before.

 

I doubt it. When I had my car dynotuned, they reset the battery before starting (which reset the LTFT). They leaned out the emanage map and targeted 11.8-12.0AFR.
So, with the R-flash resetting the LTFT today, I should still be around 11.8-12.0 unless there were changes to the stock fuel maps.

 

Adrian did they give you any problem about you having a turbo??

 

Nope, they were cool. Of course it was for recall work so they HAD to do it.

Now if I go in with a real problem, I'm sure they'll say it's due to the turbo and not covered under warranty.
That's one of the downsides to adding turbo/supercharger kits, most of your warranty is gone.

 

The more I am hearing about the R flash the less I want it done.

 

Do you notice any difference in how the car drives? Smoothness, power,...?

 

if you went from M to R yes their were some fueling changes between the 2. N did dont know if p did. R did not afaik

 

well this is how that code at least use to work...

The PCM compares the IAT with the ECT when the engine is running. If the IAT is higher than the ECT by 40C (104F), the PCM determines that there is an IAT sensor circuit range performance problem.

cut

The MIL illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while the DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in the PCM

 

I have noticed it's not as powerful as before in high RPM's due to it running rich now. Didn't notice any difference in smoothness, still have erratic idle sometimes and intermitent bogging when going into boost. Due to the high temps lately, I've been taking easy on the car and not boosting as often.

Thanks, I was hesitant to get the R but I won't care once my Interceptor EMS gets here and bypasses the stock maps altogether.



Well, that would explain it. I've installed the intake behind the front bumper and out of the engine bay so it'll be getting even cooler temps. My engine coolant temp has been around 190-205F normally and 210F on really hot days and driving hard.

 

I got that CEL today. I am running 5 psi and the ambient temps are 85-ish. I really want to do something about the position of the intake. I probably chop the stock airbox. I can't believe GReddy has it taking in air right BEHIND THE RADIATOR!

 

which dealership did you go to?

 

Premier in Georgetown.
I told them not to testdrive it. I didn't know where my AFR's would be after the flash plus I don't like other people driving my car (especially service techs).

 

Or you could just move the intake out of the engine bay. Check this thread on how to move the intake behing the bumper.

 

I am stock and got a CEL about 5 miles after driving. AutoZone cant pull the code, the scanner gets a sync error.

Guess I have to take it in.

 

Order a CANScan or SCANalsyzer. Its likely to cost about the same or less than taking it to the dealer.

 

Actually, since he's stock it should still be under warranty and cost nothing.

 

whoops. sorry. I guess I missed that since this is the Major Horespower Upgrades forum... Still not a bad investment. Those tools give a lot of information!