Hi All,

Basically, I just want to see how many of you guys have rebuilt your own motors for whatever reason. I guess I'm shfting from denial into reality mode now and facing the fact that my motor will have to come out. The motor itself is fine, but I'm pretty sure my front main seal is leaking. I have one more variable to check and that will probably take 2 weeks, but I'm not holding much hope out for it, so I need to get my mind right.

Now, I've built many rotaries. However, this would be my first Renesis and I must admit that I'm a bit nervous simply because I don't know the Rx-8 like I know FB- and FC-chassis Rx-7s. There are many things that I have not gotten the chance to familiarize myself on the 8 (ignition system, lower intake manifold, etc.). As for the motor itself, I'm pretty sure I can handle disassembly and reassembly as soon as I get a hardcopy of the FSM (for torque specs while I work).

I decided to post out of curiosity because the only one I found so far is the Charles R. Hill/Rotarygod rebuild project. I just wanted to see if there are any others of you out there that have chosen to do it yourself.

Thanks,
1

Oh ... and for those that will likely ask the question, why not take it to the dealer and use my warranty (that I paid for) ... I haven't let another person work on any of my cars in about 16 years. The ONLY exception was the clutch on my MR2 Turbo in 2003, because I had just moved to Florida and left the garage and tools that I had access to back home in New York. I simply didn't have the setup to do it at my parents' house. I've read enough horror stories of dealership work and more importantly, I've seen some of those horror stories firsthand.

... and for clarification, i'm not planning to rebuild the engine when i pull it now. i only plan on pulling the front cover and replacing the seal. however, i will want to build a Renesis whenever i can find an affordable used motor.

as i said, this thread was more of a personal curiosity since i found virtually no one building or rebuilding their own.

You can pull the front seal without taking the motor out.

well, i remember reading a thread about doing it that way. i think it was something about wedging the clutch pedal down to the floor before removing the pulley assembly. however, despite not being a glutton for punishment, i have "questionable" luck at best and the only times i've ever changed seals were when i had the front cover off. i'll just feel more comfortable that way. :(

thanks for your help/concern. (by the way, i'm not being facetious either, i really appreciate it). :)

You're a glutton for punishment if you want to pull the engine to do the front seal ;)

With the right tools, pulling the motor on the RX-8 is actually not that bad - especially if the car isn't heavily modified.

You can pull the front seal without taking the motor out.

but it would be easier if he has access to a lift isnt it ?

You can go either way.
With a lift, you go out the bottom.
I use a cherry-picker and go out the top.
I can do a motor swap by myself in two days (three if I don't kill myself).
Someone with more room could probably do it in a day.

You're a glutton for punishment if you want to pull the engine to do the front seal ;)
well, aside from being more comfortable working on it out of the car, i'm curious about the rear seal, too. in 16 years of working on rotaries, this is the first time i've had a main seal leakage (which i'm still trying to figure why). i figure it's probably a good idea to check the other end, too. i'm a tad neurotic at times, what can i say ...

i have an engine lift here now. i had to buy one since i pretty much don't know anyone down here. i've been buying tools here and there over the last few years, so i think i'm equipped to handle it. i think i'm just getting freaked out because i'm out of my comfort zone with the 8. if i were working on an Rx-7, i could do it all in a day working at a casual pace. i figure with the 8, i could probably do it in 3-4 days. my main problem is making the time to do it.

i have an engine lift here now. i had to buy one since i pretty much don't know anyone down here. i've been buying tools here and there over the last few years, so i think i'm equipped to handle it. i think i'm just getting freaked out because i'm out of my comfort zone with the 8. if i were working on an Rx-7, i could do it all in a day working at a casual pace. i figure with the 8, i could probably do it in 3-4 days. my main problem is making the time to do it.


where in fla are you?


beers :beer:

Ocala is where i live ... but i pretty much work all over. i spend a lot of time in Largo right now.

pulling from top easier? when pulled from the bottom do you have to get an alignment ?
oscd

Top isn't "easier", its just more practical for the shade-tree.
Out the bottom, yes, the suspension gets FUBARed.

Ocala is where i live ... but i pretty much work all over. i spend a lot of time in Largo right now.

i am closer to largo than ocala, if you need some help just send me a pm..

beers :beer:

It is about the same as pulling an FD motor, the same amount of crap to remove( maybe a bit easier to prep)...but the damn thing is kinda back into the firewall

I really like my 1st Gen though...that 12A is almost light enough to lift out by hand :)

well, aside from being more comfortable working on it out of the car, i'm curious about the rear seal, too. in 16 years of working on rotaries, this is the first time i've had a main seal leakage (which i'm still trying to figure why). ...

I changed my front seal without taking motor out or front cover off . It is not hard to do at all if you get good instructions .
Getting the E shaft nut off is the hard part - but I have that figured now :)
Also have to be carefull that motor is pointing upwards when you do it
read about my learning experience here .... http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=124157&page=2

Well--i am going to install a fresher engine in mine because i got such a great deal on one with only 15K on it. Complete engine for what a Mazda charges for a rebuild one.
That will leave me with mine to play with, maybe exhaust port, hand fit side seals, maybe ceramic seals, etc. I have come to realize that with an FI rotary it is probably a good thing to keep a spare. So being able to take it out up top will help this old shade tree boy.
Any "tricks" to it?
oscd

i am closer to largo than ocala, if you need some help just send me a pm..

beers :beer:

LOL :)

sorry for taking a little while to get back to this thread, but i was in Largo for a few days, at work. i don't have a laptop, so i can only log in when i'm home.

thanks for the support and i might just take you up on that. beers (or whatever) is on me ... i guess i should probably try to make some friends since i'll be here for a while.

Well--i am going to install a fresher engine in mine because i got such a great deal on one with only 15K on it. Complete engine for what a Mazda charges for a rebuild one.
That will leave me with mine to play with, maybe exhaust port, hand fit side seals, maybe ceramic seals, etc. I have come to realize that with an FI rotary it is probably a good thing to keep a spare. So being able to take it out up top will help this old shade tree boy.
Any "tricks" to it?
oscd
cool. :) so i guess you're the first to post here that will be doing an engine - even though it's not a rebuild. please start a thread on your swap whenever you're ready to do it. i haven't contacted anyone yet (NRS and Ianetti are who i have in mind to ask), but i think i'm going to get ceramics for my build whenever it happens, so let me know, please.

i agree. a spare engine is a great idea, but this front main seal has got me concerned. i can't see why a 54,xxx mile engine should blow a front main. i'm going to do a little snooping around because according to Mazdatrix, it's the same parts as the front and rear mains of the REW. i'm going to ask the FD guys if they blow front mains prematurely, too.

up top is what plan on. to me, it seems like once all that intake stuff is out of the way, then it should be pretty straightforward. at any rate, like i said, let me know.

thanks. good score and good luck.

It is about the same as pulling an FD motor, the same amount of crap to remove( maybe a bit easier to prep)...but the damn thing is kinda back into the firewall

I really like my 1st Gen though...that 12A is almost light enough to lift out by hand :)
never had to work on an FD, but i can see that there would be a lot of stuff to remove in the 8 ... and the FD, too. glad to see someone else appreciating the simplicity of the FB. :)

just follow MM's video, you can do it in a few minutes! ;)

You make it sound like it's a piece of cake.. I don't know in what reality you live in, but it takes more than a few minutes.

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/1094/dsc00183lk8.jpg

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7348/dsc00184ta8.jpg

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/8174/dsc00185zx7.jpg

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3511/dsc00186ly1.jpg

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/5440/dsc00187pg2.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3343/dsc00188tj1.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8427/dsc00189lc3.jpg

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/2771/dsc00190nu2.jpg

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3373/dsc00191mv3.jpg

yeah, those pics make it look easy. false confidence is not my friend. :) i'm going to approach it from the top. i had to pull my MR2 apart and that HAS to be done from the bottom. it was a pain in the ass. :( not looking to drop a subframe on any car without working in a shop ever again.

I changed my front seal without taking motor out or front cover off . It is not hard to do at all if you get good instructions .
Getting the E shaft nut off is the hard part - but I have that figured now :)
Also have to be carefull that motor is pointing upwards when you do it
read about my learning experience here .... http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=124157&page=2
oh yes, if i choose not to take the front cover off, i'll be keeping it standing up while doing it. i'm aware of the potential issue if i don't. the thing is, i'm used to changing the seal when the engine is apart, so i think it's going to feel strange for me to not be working with a front cover in my hands. i'm a creature of habit ... :)

anyway, did you ever get the oil leak resolved? in your thread, you alluded to the engine still leaking even after you replaced the seal. if you did get it resolved, what else did you have to do? i'm tired of this leaking shit and the smell/smoke? i just want to fix it once and for all.



to all of you, thanks for all the input so far guys. this really wasn't what i had in mind when i started this thread, but i'm not complaining. it's helpful to me either way and i really, REALLY appreciate it. :beer05:

Ja, Jedi is foolish. Hejust a banker not a mechanic.

I agree --even though pulling the tranny is a pain with all the ppf etc i had rather do it up top. Once you take intake,uim, battery/box etc off you do have a good bit of room, just need to protect the electric power steering and the fans when you swing it forward. I will be swapping mine out is approx 2 weeks(i hope--schedule and all)
olddragger

I will be swapping mine out is approx 2 weeks(i hope--schedule and all)


Why are you swapping your motor?

It is well-documented as to why I say that.

:) yep.

Got a great deal on a complete 15K engine and I want to build one a little stronger for fi applications.
olddragger

How many miles do you have FI on the motor you are taking out?
It would be interesting to see the if the SC accelerated any wear.

I've contemplated doing the same thing (pulling my motor while it is still totally healthy) and pulling it apart to see if there is anything that can be improved upon.
There are several good motors here in Phoenix.

There really aren't too many options to make the Renesis stronger, though. It already has the hardest apex seals Mazda ever used.
I suppose the side seal to corner seal clearance could be improved, but porting and such won't make huge gains in a relatively low-boost S/C or turbo installation.

Agreed and I have a lot to learn. I want to look at coatings(not the housing), slight exhaust porting, do some flow studies(especially with that siamese port we have), lower compression, little oil flow mod, thermostat- etc . It is going to be a learning experience along with what i hope to be a little stronger engine eventually.
oscd

Agreed and I have a lot to learn. I want to look at coatings(not the housing), slight exhaust porting, do some flow studies(especially with that siamese port we have), lower compression, little oil flow mod, thermostat- etc . It is going to be a learning experience along with what i hope to be a little stronger engine eventually.
oscd
i have not tried to source ceramics yet for the Renesis, but if you do, then just get a Cermet coating for the housings and i think you'll be straight. you'll have a long-lasting engine, provided you're not going to try to do impossible shit (i.e boosting without fuel or ontercooling or something).

whenever i do rebuild, that's the route i plan to take. my focus will be reliability and longevity on an RB flash and REW oil pressure, nothing major. i think i'll achieve it, too.

Sweet Jesus, those pics are what, bottom drop? What are the pros and cons? Looks like a PITA.