I Just want to say to everyone :
DO NOT EVER BUY THIS BUMPER !
I did, and it is not at all good quality !

It do not fit at all !!!
And we can not adjust it because it is plastic bumper, and the only way to adjust it may be to cut it at the middle, to extract a part of it, and to fix it this way !

WHY ? BECAUSE IT IS LARGER THAN THE CAR !!!

I m not the first one in the forum having issue with it !

What a big disapointment ! :wallbash:
Have to order a new one in a hurry as myt car is at the paint job waiting for a bumper to be done :'(

lol, not at you, but at your post,,,
yeah there is a local guy around here that claims his is a perfect fit but once I saw it in person, there was a huge pinch and sag in the middle of the bumper,,,
Ohhh well, what bumper are you looking for now,,,

the lower ratio is great for performance. the ratio provided by that diff and oem tire size is about the same as the oem diff and a 24.5 inch tall tire. i ran such a tire on the track for a little while. It provides better acceleration for the higher gears but i found myself having to use 6th gear even on short tracks. i would not do this on the street with our power band.
what i have found is a combo of the 09 trans and our powerband + oem rear is just the ticket i have been looking for.
3-4-5th gear are now very ,very good and very close in ratio. Yet 6th gear is a true overdrive allowing me to only turn 3.2K rpm at 65mph
hope that helps.
ps we dont need more power to get out of the corner when we cant do it under full throttle now?
OD

I've been off the forum for a while, so I am assuming you have successfully installed the '09 tranny?? If so, how do you like it??

I Just want to say to everyone :
DO NOT EVER BUY THIS BUMPER !
I did, and it is not at all good quality !

It do not fit at all !!!
And we can not adjust it because it is plastic bumper, and the only way to adjust it may be to cut it at the middle, to extract a part of it, and to fix it this way !

WHY ? BECAUSE IT IS LARGER THAN THE CAR !!!

I m not the first one in the forum having issue with it !

What a big disapointment ! :wallbash:
Have to order a new one in a hurry as myt car is at the paint job waiting for a bumper to be done :'(

Forum member kersh4w has a nose from buddy club and it is pretty sweet IMHO

the 09 trans is kinda perfect for our set up. i also like the wide shifter gate. helps to stops those uh oh downships. 3-4-5 gears are sooooo close ratioed and 6 is true OD.
1st is a little low but reverse is hell of a lot easier to get to.
looks and feels stronger.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
OD

the 09 trans is kinda perfect for our set up. i also like the wide shifter gate. helps to stops those uh oh downships. 3-4-5 gears are sooooo close ratioed and 6 is true OD.
1st is a little low but reverse is hell of a lot easier to get to.
looks and feels stronger.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
OD

Good to know. Everything breaks at some point, especially with close to 400 HP at the clutch.

;)

On your meth kits? are most of you using 60ml/min preblower and 100ml/min postblower nozzles? Those of you using MAF controlled kits, at what voltages are you setting it up for?

I turn up the "full" adjustment to about 3/4 of the scale (4 volts?) and set the "start pumping" low, about 2 to 2.5 volts

the 09 trans is kinda perfect for our set up. i also like the wide shifter gate. helps to stops those uh oh downships. 3-4-5 gears are sooooo close ratioed and 6 is true OD.
1st is a little low but reverse is hell of a lot easier to get to.
looks and feels stronger.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
OD

sweet. Did you do the install yourself??

I turn up the "full" adjustment to about 3/4 of the scale (4 volts?) and set the "start pumping" low, about 2 to 2.5 volts

Thanks guys. I'm starting the install Sunday. Any pointers? I have one more question. I'm noticed conflicting posts on the locations for the 60 and 100 ml/min nozzles. Which is right, 60 pre blower, or 60 post blower?

Thanks guys. I'm starting the install Sunday. Any pointers? I have one more question. I'm noticed conflicting posts on the locations for the 60 and 100 ml/min nozzles. Which is right, 60 pre blower, or 60 post blower?


60 ml goes before the blower.
100 ml goes into the output of the intercooler.

You need check valves or solenoids as well.

:beer05:

Thanks, yeah I got all of the stuff. I just need to get a tap to install the nozzles.

Which wire is the MAF sensor signal output wire? Also, where are you connecting your acc 12V at? Are you guys just tapping into another circuit, or there an unused one that you dedicated to your water/meth kit?

sweet. Did you do the install yourself??

10 to 1 he did.. :)

cant wait to talk to him about it..

btw, fuel pump tool is in the mail..

beers :beer:

F***k !!!!
the FFSA (French Federation of Automobile Sports) have new rules since 1st january 2010 and wath/meth is forbiden for track / drag / etc ...


I think my last option is the CryO2 air intake modification !

Nice MAF reading at 7K.:uhh:

Looks like its time to get your MAF scaled. Hopefully the tuning software coming down the pipe will account for that.

Which wire is the MAF sensor signal output wire? Also, where are you connecting your acc 12V at? Are you guys just tapping into another circuit, or there an unused one that you dedicated to your water/meth kit?

I found that the MAF signal wire is the yellow/red one. Where are you guys tapping off of for power? There's numerous circuits I could splice into, but I'd prefer a dedicated one.

Looks like its time to get your MAF scaled. Hopefully the tuning software coming down the pipe will account for that.

How do you scal your MAF ?

How do you scale your MAF ?

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=169597

Or you can use a software to help.

http://ppo2performance.com/docs/

Dude you are blowing my mind with those readings!
318 g/sec at 7K?
TPS only at 54%?
a/f of 12.9?
It hurts---stop!

What do yall think of opening the apv's sooner (since my redline is at 7.5K they are not doing me much good?) or keeping them closed?
OD

Dude you are blowing my mind with those readings!
318 g/sec at 7K?
TPS only at 54%?
a/f of 12.9?
It hurts---stop!

What do yall think of opening the apv's sooner (since my redline is at 7.5K they are not doing me much good?) or keeping them closed?
OD


I wasn't "on it" in the 7K one...

:SHOCKED:

I think a 400RWHP daily driven Renesis will be possible soon.

The turbo guys should (also) look to lower compression, with more volume to cram air into. :dunno:

Dude you are blowing my mind with those readings!
318 g/sec at 7K?
TPS only at 54%?
a/f of 12.9?
It hurts---stop!

What do yall think of opening the apv's sooner (since my redline is at 7.5K they are not doing me much good?) or keeping them closed?
OD


If you have the redline at 7.5, why not open them at 5800?
You will need to completely retune to match that, but I am sure it is possible.
:naughty:

I wasn't "on it" in the 7K one...

:SHOCKED:

I think a 400RWHP daily driven Renesis will be possible soon.

The turbo guys should (also) look to lower compression, with more volume to cram air into. :dunno:

don't think it works that way but nice readings anyway .

Get a dyno done

Dude you are blowing my mind with those readings!
318 g/sec at 7K?
TPS only at 54%?
a/f of 12.9?
It hurts---stop!

What do yall think of opening the apv's sooner (since my redline is at 7.5K they are not doing me much good?) or keeping them closed?
OD

Why not open them even sooner than that? One tuner on this thread claimed that opening them as low as 2-3k rpms gives FI cars better response down low. My next tune I will open them at 2k to see how it feels.

-Yambo

Velocity vs. mass...... it is always fun to try to find the perfect balance.

Why not open them even sooner than that? One tuner on this thread claimed that opening them as low as 2-3k rpms gives FI cars better response down low. My next tune I will open them at 2k to see how it feels.

-Yambo

That tuner was mistaken . Opening them any earlier than 6000 will yeild a loss in whp .
It's all about the velocity of the rotor past the port .

don't think it works that way but nice readings anyway .

Get a dyno done

I need to fine tune on a dyno...
:D:

Who did try this things ?
I do not know how it fits ?!
I need a gaude pod for my AFR and boost gauge.
I was hesitating to get one like those.
this one is evo-R brand...

see it on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-8-SE3P-Carbon-Fiber-Twin-Hood-Gauge-Pod-52-mm_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5639496b1bQQitemZ370 328300315QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories)

I know that the old days we used the int X and Scott reportively opened the apvs a little earier. I must admit the midrange kick was stronger then. I have no idea on the tune other than it was rich!
I have stopped thinking in terms of #psi boost, etc and I try to think now of the airs temp/viscosity. Helps me visualize it better.
Since the sc can get the air to max viscosity at around 3K that is unwavering to my redline, opening the apv earier should not show a drop in power?
How would the tune have to be changed? The red injectors are not that big and the p2's are oversized? As long as the a/f's remain good --there should be no change to the tune?
OD

Do you mean velocity?

My recommendation is to log g/sec curves with the same tune with the APVs open at stock, and backing it off by 1000 rpm at a time then overlay them.... the sweet spot should be pretty evident.

This assumes your MAF scale is spot on - helps avoid nasty lean spikes.

Who did try this things ?
I do not know how it fits ?!
I need a gaude pod for my AFR and boost gauge.
I was hesitating to get one like those.
this one is evo-R brand...

see it on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-8-SE3P-Carbon-Fiber-Twin-Hood-Gauge-Pod-52-mm_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5639496b1bQQitemZ370 328300315QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories)

you can get it if you want but the first few and only since that bought it werent happy with it, you can see in the pics that due to the geometry of the clameshelled gauge cluster the gauges actually face away from the driver. Not much but enough to be annoying to dislike it,,,

you may want to pester James to put in production his gauge pod that hes prototyped, http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=189766

Do you mean velocity?

My recommendation is to log g/sec curves with the same tune with the APVs open at stock, and backing it off by 1000 rpm at a time then overlay them.... the sweet spot should be pretty evident.
.

been there done that . Don't see why a SC should be any different than a turbo in this regard .

nope meant "viscosity". Helps me to understand "boost" better.
10psi "boost" means the air is compressed to a different viscosity than a 5lbpsi boost. Right?
Velocity is still important, as is flow. Makes me think of my large intestine:)
Just helps me to think that moving a higher viscosity air to a greater velocity is different than moving a lower vis to a greater velocity. Viscosity to me means = boost+ volumne. Otherword how much air do we have Jethro.

I really need the flow map for my unit--i guess?
OD

You do - or you can look at MAF, IAT and Pressure to help you visualize it.

looks like i have a job to do.
That new jack is sweet
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151157&stc=1&d=1265339997

Oh,,,,,,,,.... hit 326/g/sec at 7.5K today--just another day on the way to work!
OD

looks like i have a job to do.
That new jack is sweet
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151157&stc=1&d=1265339997

Oh,,,,,,,,.... hit 326/g/sec at 7.5K today--just another day on the way to work!
OD

What kind of jack is that? I need to get a new one. My craftsman one is all lopsided.

best deal i have found on a jack. Its a 2 ton jack with double pumps and almost 19" lift. Low profile to 3 inches i think.
Its from Harbor Freight.
It is aluminum and wgt is about 35lbs
Got it for $159.oo +tax

ok --getting my kw's on and its my 1st experience with adjustable coilovers on my own car.
?
in adjusting ride height--tires always has to come off and car has to be jacked up---right?
do you measure from fender lip to the center of the wheel?
thanks
OD

Yep - I count threads on the Coilover, then remount the tire and drop it back down to get the height you want.

So once you get one wheel height right, set the other three to the same thread number and remeasure all of them on the ground.

It's kinda a pain but it works and it only normally takes me 20-30 minutes.

Thanks Kane.
Glad I have the new jack. Now if I only had a lortab or 2 for the old bones.

with the heavier springs (i had the TEIN H's) i can already tell traction is going to be more on an issue. Trade offs I guess.
OD

Traction bars.... lol oh wait wrong generation.

now there you go --bringing back memories of bent leaf springs and broken u joints and Roadrunners fading behind me!
OD

And a 13 second street car was hella fast!!!!

Lol--cept i was in the 11's with stock drum brakes! Couldnt stop the dang thing.

10psi "boost" means the air is compressed to a different viscosity than a 5lbpsi boost. Right?
Velocity is still important, as is flow. Makes me think of my large intestine:)
Just helps me to think that moving a higher viscosity air to a greater velocity is different than moving a lower vis to a greater velocity. Viscosity to me means = boost+ volumne. Otherword how much air do we have Jethro.

I really need the flow map for my unit--i guess?
OD

Replace "viscosity" with "density" regarding air masses and you are on the right path.
Velocity isn't nearly the issue with F/I engines as much as density is. Velocity is a concept more applied to N/A engines in an effort to develop inertia in the air-mass. This is what Mazda calls their "Supercharger Effect" and it has been utilized with piston engines for the same purpose.
The idea is that with an N/A engine we are limited to the air-density that Mother Nature gives us. F/I engines can get around this a bit and I don't feel like arguing wastegates versus belt-drives, thank you.

Lol --i am with you Ray. Its just a personal word that helps my particular gray matter visualized a density that is flowing. When I think of density, for some reason I think of something just sitting there.
With my brain now a days I have to use whatever works to help what does not.:).
OD

I am hip, Denny, but we gotta get you into the current nomenclature/vocabulary or the yungins/noobs who look up to you will become confused.

BTW, intake air velocity and density comprise the elements of harmonic resonance that engine designers use to achieve given torque curves in the engines they design. What Mazda did with the Renesis is pretty damned impressive.

With F/I engines we are somewhat replacing the concern for velocity with the element of density. Brute force to stuff air in the engine, so to speak.

Yeah...... finesse is for pussies!


Oooorah!


:lol:

Yeah...... finesse is for pussies!


Oooorah!


:lol:

I once had a girlfriend who would argue that one...
She enjoyed the brute force method...

lol
oooorah indeed:0.
For the sake of all those young impressionable minds i concur.
OD

ok what sparkplugs are yall running on the street and track? currently i am running the one step colder denso's. There are others out there--some ngk's that are quite inexpensive.

Have any of yall rebuilt your calipers yet? May want to take a look at them?

Has anyone messed around (pettit guys) with apv openings? I would like mine to open a little earier--even thinking of using the old vfad connector to do this since i am too cheap to get a Cobb!
OD

...


Hey Kuco, give us news on rx8france, people are scared for your RX-8, we thought you had some major issues with your kit. ^^


:)

ok what sparkplugs are yall running on the street and track? currently i am running the one step colder denso's. There are others out there--some ngk's that are quite inexpensive.

Have any of yall rebuilt your calipers yet? May want to take a look at them?

Has anyone messed around (pettit guys) with apv openings? I would like mine to open a little earier--even thinking of using the old vfad connector to do this since i am too cheap to get a Cobb!
OD
With the new pricing, just break down and get the Cobb. I don't think you will regret it.

Hey Kuco, give us news on rx8france, people are scared for your RX-8, we thought you had some major issues with your kit. ^^


:)

Hi ! :)

Ok, I promise I'll post soon on rx8france...it's been one year now since I check this website for the last time :spank:

My car exterior modd is soon finished (for now)

Peoples will be shocked lol

ok what sparkplugs are yall running on the street and track? currently i am running the one step colder denso's. There are others out there--some ngk's that are quite inexpensive.

Have any of yall rebuilt your calipers yet? May want to take a look at them?

Has anyone messed around (pettit guys) with apv openings? I would like mine to open a little earier--even thinking of using the old vfad connector to do this since i am too cheap to get a Cobb!
OD

I use all times the NGK irridium sparks :)

with the larger pulley and the larger psi of air i am wondering if a 1 step colder plug may be a really good idea?

Cobb? I wish. I think I cant learn anymore. Sure would be nice to turn that cel off(no cat or air pump). Let me borrow yours lol.
OD

Old pump out, slightly used pump in. Pump still no worky. I know now I have to troubleshoot the electrical system. I'm not sure how to go about it. Any ideas??

with the larger pulley and the larger psi of air i am wondering if a 1 step colder plug may be a really good idea?

Cobb? I wish. I think I cant learn anymore. Sure would be nice to turn that cel off(no cat or air pump). Let me borrow yours lol.
OD

If you're happy with the Pettit tune I would advise sticking with that for two reasons. I screwed around with the COBB for 2 years and even though I found ways to squeeze a few more ponies, it was at the expense of a less conservative tune, and did not make the car seem quicker in the seat of the pants area. Last time I talked with him, Dian at EFI dude was working with me on getting a good flash for the larger pulley.

Give Cam a call and ask him about his new developments on the tuning front if you haven't allready. Don't spend $700 for the COBB if you are happy with the way the car runs.

-Adam

Cobb? I wish. I think I cant learn anymore. Sure would be nice to turn that cel off(no cat or air pump). Let me borrow yours lol.
OD

Not much to learn. Press OK and drive off.

Don't spend $700 for the COBB if you are happy with the way the car runs.


Price drop!
Also, it never ceases to amaze me how badly a car can run and the owner will still say "It runs great!".
I guess its a matter of perspective.

Old pump out, slightly used pump in. Pump still no worky. I know now I have to troubleshoot the electrical system. I'm not sure how to go about it. Any ideas??

I'm late to the party. What is going on? No power to the pump at all? Is there power before the two fuel pump relays? How about at the fuel pump resistor pack?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151511&stc=1&d=1265997474

I don't know. Where exactly are the two relays and resistor pack? Pictures of the engine bay, or whereever they are would be awesome.

I don't know. Where exactly are the two relays and resistor pack? Pictures of the engine bay, or whereever they are would be awesome.

The two relays are in the front (bumper end) of the engine bay fuse box.
They are both blue, IIRC.

The fuel pump resistor is on the bracket that supports the air pump.

Hi Guys !
I just want to install a boost / vaccum Gauge (glowshift gauge).
But I do not know how (where) to install it !

help wanted guys !

thanks,

Hi Guys !
I just want to install a boost / vaccum Gauge (glowshift gauge).
But I do not know how (where) to install it !

help wanted guys !

thanks,
Mine is in a Racing Beat pod, where the ash tray used to be.

Mine is in a Racing Beat pod, where the ash tray used to be.

I meant where to install it on the S/C :mdrmed:
I never installed this kind of gauge (boost / vaccum) and I do not know where on the S/C I can plug it ...

if you can explain to me (+ picts if needed) :worship:

I meant where to install it on the S/C :mdrmed:
I never installed this kind of gauge (boost / vaccum) and I do not know where on the S/C I can plug it ...

if you can explain to me (+ picts if needed) :worship:

There are vacuum taps on the bottom side of the "hump" of the Pettit upper intake manifold.

I've got my intake manifold off. I'll take a pic and post it later.

The one in the middle is the hose that goes to my boost/vac gauge. The T with the hose removed is where the small hose on the bypass valve goes.

The one in the middle is the hose that goes to my boost/vac gauge. The T with the hose removed is where the small hose on the bypass valve goes.

I run my vac/boost plus bypass valve actuator from the two lower intake nipples. I run two vacuum hoses from the lower intake manifold to a T and then to a single hose to the bypass actuator and another T to the vac/boost gauge. :eyetwitch

The two relays are in the front (bumper end) of the engine bay fuse box.
They are both blue, IIRC.

The fuel pump resistor is on the bracket that supports the air pump.

Okay. I'll replace those and hopefully that does the trick.

You ARE still alive!
Welcome back Bro---
OD

You ARE still alive!
Welcome back Bro---
OD

Yeap, still alive.

Not much to report other than my still runing the way I like it. I added a MSD DashHawk and hoping to do my first mini road course on the 28th at http://cfracingcomplex.com/

Also, planing on driving up to TN/NC in April (Deals Gap Rotary Rally) along with Bastage.

Maybe porting my engine, better apex seals and installing the new set of RB oil cooler lines before the year-end.

One thing for sure is that I'm not interested in blowing my engine up in order to attain a couple of more whp. :eyetwitch

LoL!
I wish I could get yall on one of the road courses we do. This past w/e the gang, minus me, were at Carolina Motor Park with NASA and tracking when there was 6 " of snow on the ground and it was 22F! Idiots---but they are loveable:)
We will be at Road Atlanta In mid March and At Roebling Road In Mid May. You and yours are more than welcome and I will personally take care of ya mate.
OD

Old pump out, slightly used pump in. Pump still no worky. I know now I have to troubleshoot the electrical system. I'm not sure how to go about it. Any ideas??

Got Gas in the tank? :lol2: (You checked this; right?)

Multimeter set to 20 volts to test for 12 volts, black lead to battery negative; red lead to stuff you are testing.
Got power to the relays under the hood? (fuse box behind driver head light)
Got power to the fuel pump resistor? (finned silver box under Air Pump mount)
Test the old pump with battery power?

just check the power to the pump with a voltmeter or even just a circuit light.
if you have power it will show there.
am i missing something?
OD

So I have a question. I'm thinking about this kit, and am looking at the Stage II CS version which requires the use of a High flow cat. However I would much rather use the racing beat resonated mid pipe. Obviously this will trigger the rear O2 sensor error code.

The cobb access port has the ability to disable this DTC, so no check engine light ever comes up. Is this functionality coming to the EFIdude software? If not, why even use the efidude software in the first place? The cobb access port seems like a much better product, and hell it costs less.

its a really good solid kit,
The efi dude has the software in it, that is being used etc for data collection and for Cam's tunes.
The cobb will require that someone else to tune it.

just check the power to the pump with a voltmeter or even just a circuit light.
if you have power it will show there.
am i missing something?
OD

I see we are big endian vs little endian...

:lol:

just check the power to the pump with a voltmeter or even just a circuit light.
if you have power it will show there.
am i missing something?
OD

The two blue relay "holes" light up with a circuit light when testing there, but the multimeter doesn't show anything but a "-" symbol next to zeroes when touching the same "holes".

I put 2 new blue relays in (one for fuel pump and the other for circuit) and the pump still will not prime. I am testing by running a silicon hose from the fuel line ( the upper one that the red clip attaches to) into a small gas can. No fuel or smell whatsoever when attemting to crank. I don't know if i'm supposed to be able to hear the pump when it is trying to prime or run. I have the rear seat cushion and metal cover off and i don't hear anything. The interior lights and accessories all work.

Ideas??

The two blue relay "holes" light up with a circuit light when testing there, but the multimeter doesn't show anything but a "-" symbol next to zeroes when touching the same "holes".

Ideas??

The circuit light says it's good.
Was the multimeter set for 20 volts?
Could you have reverse polarity on the multimeter leads?

Check for power at the fuel pump resistor leads, the finned silver thing under the air pump mount.

Try a hot lead (and ground) to the pump you removed; does it work?

The key is on? :cussing:

its a really good solid kit,
The efi dude has the software in it, that is being used etc for data collection and for Cam's tunes.
The cobb will require that someone else to tune it.

MM said the Cobb comes with software, but you need to know the values to input.
The bad part is, you need to know ALL the values, you will need to know how to create a tune from scratch.

Hey guys, anybody here would have a recent video of his supercharged RX-8 ?^I mean an onboard version, where we can give a good look about performance.


We got a lack of it, as most FI RX-8... :(


Really need to give a better look on it, ty. ^^

Hey guys, anybody here would have a recent video of his supercharged RX-8 ?^I mean an onboard version, where we can give a good look about performance.


We got a lack of it, as most FI RX-8... :(


Really need to give a better look on it, ty. ^^


Try this teaser video
http://www.pettitracing.com/images/whats_new/MazdaRX8_Teaser_RPM.wmv



:)

ok on the pump---you have checked that you are getting power to the pump---right?.
At the harness where it plugs to the pump---right?
Ok after that and its still not pumping into the gas can--- then get out the manual and do the fuel pump by pass check in which you "bypass" all the circuitry and it turns the pump on regardless. Its a jumper wire thing. Turning the key to "on" with the fuel line detached wont work.
You do have fuel in the tank---correct?
You saw it---right? Dont thrust the gauge.
OD

Hey guys, anybody here would have a recent video of his supercharged RX-8 ?^I mean an onboard version, where we can give a good look about performance.


We got a lack of it, as most FI RX-8... :(

Enjoy :eyetwitch


Really need to give a better look on it, ty. ^^

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jq_32HCfPM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMUA1XYiLrQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DMthgPrmZM

Thx a lot sir, i didn't know your channel on youtube. ;)

My car has now 71000 KM, something like 50000 miles... I'm wondering if my Renesis could support it, or should i go for a rebuild before if i decide one day to SC it ? :??:

Thx a lot sir, i didn't know your channel on youtube. ;)

My car has now 71000 KM, something like 50000 miles... I'm wondering if my Renesis could support it, or should i go for a rebuild before if i decide one day to SC it ? :??:

Use 9 to 1 Low compression rotors!!!

:Eyecrazy:

Supercharged car in autoX (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO0LfBmhM1Q)

mu new bumper should arrive to miami this week, to guadeloupe next week...

I may be able to drive soon :D
get wait anymore...

I decided to change the air filter for something closed and still in the engine bay... I ordered a BMC air filter... pict + video of everything when my car is drivable :)

ok on the pump---you have checked that you are getting power to the pump---right?.
At the harness where it plugs to the pump---right?
Ok after that and its still not pumping into the gas can--- then get out the manual and do the fuel pump by pass check in which you "bypass" all the circuitry and it turns the pump on regardless. Its a jumper wire thing. Turning the key to "on" with the fuel line detached wont work.
You do have fuel in the tank---correct?
You saw it---right? Dont thrust the gauge.
OD

No juice to the pump or anywhere else. Guess I need to recharge the battery AGAIN. Are you saying I cannot attempt the pump "bypass" unless I have the fuel line reconnected? If so, where is the best place to purchase a new one. I remember reading that its not a good idea to reuse the old one once it has been disconnected.

Thx a lot sir, i didn't know your channel on youtube. ;)

My car has now 71000 KM, something like 50000 miles... I'm wondering if my Renesis could support it, or should i go for a rebuild before if i decide one day to SC it ? :??:

I installed mine with 76000miles on the original engine, engine was in great shape all the way through. It died at 97000 miles due to a small vac leak that developed which fed the solenoid that actuates the port valves, if I would have caught that leak earlier I believe my original engine would still be here,,,,

I have since put just over 2K miles on my new engine, with the SC from the beginning.

Mork
here it is
The fuel line you are using can be used multiple times. The one that connects the 2 banks of fuel injectors is the one you dont use but once--ask me how i know:)

You have to install a jumper as the manual says before the pump will run with the gas line unattached. You dont have to reattach the fuel line for this --just leave it in the jug as you have.
you are bypassing a safety system of sorts when you do this.
I have ran into this same thing--trying to figure out why the pump wasnt running in trying to test it.
Install the jumper as the manual shows, have your gas line in a bucket, then turn the ignition switch on. The pump will then run continually.
Good luck--i will bet it is not the electrical circuit giving you problems---thats very rare.
OD

Finally finished installing my water/meth kit. I wish it was warmer out to test it in.

You could have tested it at the Richmond meet yesterday! LOLZ

Still wasn't done. I finished it last night.

Finally finished installing my water/meth kit. I wish it was warmer out to test it in.

Looks very nice. I would recommend using a check valve instead of the solenoid. They do go bad from time to time and usually at the wrong time like it happened to me. The result was detonation and a couple of skipped heartbeats. Never had a problem since I got rid of the solenoid over two years ago and besides it is simpler. :eyetwitch

clean set up.
very clean.
OD

Denny,

I’m going to run my first road course Sunday. It is a very short course here in Central Florida. Yes, I know about the ones you participate but I’m baby stepping on this one before I try to run with the big boys. The road course layout is in the attached picture and youtube videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18WsPm47D7M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0QG7b2AYwk&feature=PlayList&p=35061E02883BB9B3&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=3

You pretty much know my car setup and I’m rolling on Toyo Proxes R1R (very sticky DOT tires). No, I don’t have the time or money to buy or change tires/setups at the moment cuz I’m in the process of buying/selling a house and I just want to run my car this Sunday to blowup some steam.

Anyway, since you are a marine and always a marine, could you please reply with some pointers in kiss (keep it simple stupid) format. For example tire pressure, rear end-links adjustment and SC RX8 driving technique.

This is a non-timed event. No transponders will be issued. It will be a clear day with temps in the 60, 3 to 5 laps per session and starting at 9am.

Also, I don’t give a shit about wining as to most of the things I do in life. I just want to enjoy running my car fast without worrying about the Po-Po issuing a speeding ticket. :eyetwitch

Thanks,
Juan

tire pressures - several PSI lower than on the street - checked cold. If you are getting rollever onto the sidewall, add PSI, if you are feeling the tires get greasy drop the psi.

be smooth on the controls. The smoother your input the better the car will respond.

wouldn't worry to much about chassis tuning (via endlinks, shock adjustments, camber/caster changes, ride height, etc) if this is your first event. Just go out and drive and have fun.

Bleed your breaks before you go. A flush would be best if it hasn't been completely flushed and changed lately but do at least bleed them if you don't have time for a full flush.

Before you hit the track for the first time check, double check and check again your lugs are properly torqued.

Have fun, keep the shinny side up.

well ---finally!!!
1st thing --that track scares the hell out of me.
no run off room, poles and hard walls close by. Rough guess is top speeds will be in the 90-100mph range?
Looks like you will be using 2nd-3nd mostly? Brakes have little cooling time here and your engine is going to build a lot of heat as you dont have any real straight to build speed for any length of time---so watch your temps.
Be careful--learn smooth--its not a drag race so treat the tranny good.

1st-- change your oil and filter before going--we get a lot of fuel dilution so change it when you get back too!
2- if you havent changed your tranny/diff in the past year --do it
track builds a lot of heat--especially this type of track. Yes i realize the ambient will be low:)
3- run the w/m--duhhh right
4- 1oz of premix per gallon--no arguments!
5- a step colder plugs if you havent already
6- get hi temp brake fluid like Ate blue and bleed flush out the brakes.
remember DONT use the parking brakes when you come into the pitt after your session---the brakes are H-O-T and if you use the parking brakes it will ruin your day.
7 --the biggest suspension adjustment you need to do now is to leave it alone :).
8- add 2 to 3 lbs of air to all four tires your 1st session. Immediatly check tire pressures when you come off --hot pressures for your tires should be around 41-42--adjust accordingly. check pressures before you go out --the sunny side of the car tires will be a LOT warmer and psi difference can be large.
I would rotate my tires on this track after 3 sessions. You are going to eat some outside left front thread blocks up here--notice how it is mostly right handed turns. And with that in mind get a passenger in the car with you --since you are not corner balanced for this track you will be left turn bias--a passenger will help your right handed turning. get the biggest person you can find:)-truely does make a big difference
9 You should not have a problem with fuel starvation here but keep 1/2 tank in just in case.
Do the tight seat belt trick--helps hold you better to your seat!
10--remember the strength of this car is the chassis and braking. Brake late and hard--this actually helps the brakes run cooler--and you are running stock pads? The car trail brakes great and you can make up a lot of time on others by doing that.
foot should be either on the gas or the brake--no in betweens!
11- road racing is about smooth inputs--all of them, --wheel, gas, trans, brakes.
The more you turn the wheel the more speed you scrub off --so fine your lines early. follow a Miata if one is there.
I could talk forever.:)
You HAVE to come to Ga dude ----ASAP--priority's are priority's but come as soon as you can.
We need another addict.

Again---thats a dangerous track--be careful out there.
rotor on and yoooo haaaaaa!
OD

.
8- add 2 to 3 lbs of air to all four tires your 1st session.

10--remember the strength of this car is the chassis and braking. Brake late and hard--this actually helps the brakes run cooler--and you are running stock pads? The car trail brakes great and you can make up a lot of time on others by doing that.
foot should be either on the gas or the brake--no in betweens!


OD, I have to disagree with these 2 points.

You of all people should know that tracking the car will add more heat to the tires, which will raise the pressures more than street driving. Adding pressure to what you run on the street is going to make those pressures way to high - if they are set reasonably for the street. Always should be dropping pressure from the street to cold track pressure. Proper working temperatures/pressure will also vary between tire compounds and manufactures. To apply the blanket XYZ is the best hot/cold pressure to shoot for is over reaching, IMO.

More important that hitting a specific pressure hot is the working temperatures, and there will be a correlation between pressure and temperature. Without a pyrometer the best way to do this is to read the sidewall. How far are you rolling over the edge. Too much rollover, not enough pressure and visa versa. All performance tires have little arrows on the sidewall that indicate where the maximum proper rollover is at. And of course you want to attempt to have similar as possible hot temperatures/pressures.

The second point about trail braking I think is going a bit far for a guy going out on is FIRST TRACK DAY. You are right if we are talking about an experienced driver that wants to push the envelope. But Esp on a track that you yourself commented on the lack of runoff and the proximity of hard things to hit he should stay away from this technique this time out, IMO. Without prior experience he should be being VERY careful, not worrying about making up time on anyone. Just learn the line, and get used to being in that environment without bending up the car.

As this is your first track event, I highly recommend you DO NOT flush or bleed your brakes. If they are working adequately, you do not want to add another failure point by potentially bleeding your brakes incorrectly.
Bleed them after the event. They'll probably need it.
The likelihood that you will use your brakes at a level that might introduce failure is extremely low.

R1Rs DO NOT like low pressures. Start at 30 PSI all the way around and put a dab of shoe polish on the sidewalls right where it meets the tread. Since you are only doing 5 or less laps per session, you will NOT get up to operating temp on those tires, so you just want to see how much squirm you've got going on and the polish will show that.

R1Rs DO NOT like low pressures. Start at 30 PSI all the way around.

Have you used these? How did you like them?

Have you used these? How did you like them?

They are essentially a "street" version of the R888.
Were I to buy another "street" race tire, I'd stick with the NT-05s. Even though they are a bit harder (and a genuine street tire because of it), they stay grippy across a wider range of temperatures. They are also cheaper.

The R888 are much grippier, so why settle on a 140 UTQG R1R?

EDIT: I forgot the rest of the world has to deal with rain. I guess that might be a factor if you really drive on the street on those things.

They are essentially a "street" version of the R888.
Were I to buy another "street" race tire, I'd stick with the NT-05s. Even though they are a bit harder (and a genuine street tire because of it), they stay grippy across a wider range of temperatures. They are also cheaper.

The R888 are much grippier, so why settle on a 140 UTQG R1R?


Well, I know I wouldn't go with the NT-05's because they are a drag radial, not a road race type tire. Maybe that's just me.

I know all the specs, that doesn't always tell the tale.

I've got R6's sitting here.

Just contemplating running another season on street tires before going to R-comps and if so, which ones to run. Kumho XS's, R1R's, etc, etc.

EDIT: I forgot the rest of the world has to deal with rain. I guess that might be a factor if you really drive on the street on those things.

I wouldn't recommend anyone use R-comps on the street. Lot's of potential issues, but out your way I know many many that get away with it because of just that issue - no rain.

Mine is a dedicated track/race car so I don't have to worry too much about that myself either.

Well, I know I wouldn't go with the NT-05's because they are a drag radial, not a road race type tire. Maybe that's just me.

Wrong tire.
The NT-05 is a road race tire like the NT-01, but with a UTQG of 200 instead of 100.
Nitto and Toyo use the same compounds, IIRC.
The NT-05 is comparable to the Star Specs.

You are thinking of the 555s.

I wouldn't recommend anyone use R-comps on the street.

That is essentially what you are doing with the R1Rs.

Wrong tire.
The NT-05 is a road race tire like the NT-01, but with a UTQG of 200 instead of 100.
Nitto and Toyo use the same compounds, IIRC.
The NT-05 is comparable to the Star Specs.

You are thinking of the 555s.


I was actually thinking you were talking about the NT-05R, which is a drag radial. Either way, wrong tire.

That is essentially what you are doing with the R1Rs.

Not exactly. Just because it's sticky and low treadwear doesn't mean it's "basically a race tire". There are several things that make it a streetable/daily tire much moreso than a like-compound race tire. I wouldn't hesitate to run the nt-05 or the star specs, or the r1rs all summer, but wouldn't use the nt-01, or the r888's. As similar as they may seem, they are not made for daily/street use. They are track tires that are given a DOT tread rating because of the way race governing bodies deal with tires like this.

The R1R and the R888 are the same compound.

but not the same sidewall stiffness, nor the same tread pattern, nor the same pressure operating range - which has to do with sidewall stiffness and ply composition.

I wouldn't run the r888 on the street and re-reading what you originally posted i thought you concluded that too?

but not the same sidewall stiffness, nor the same tread pattern, nor the same pressure operating range - which has to do with sidewall stiffness and ply composition.

I wouldn't run the r888 on the street and re-reading what you originally posted i thought you concluded that too?

I wouldn't run the R888 on the street.
But using your DOT rationale, I wouldn't run the R1Rs, either.

Their pressure op range and carcass is the same, BTW.

so then it's exactly the same tire. which, just by deductive logic, fails.

so then it's exactly the same tire. which, just by deductive logic, fails.

No.

Different tread pattern and different sidewall stiffness.

Hahaha - Just man-up and get some slicks :p

I did that on one of my past cars, and it was amazing.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Slicks are extremely dangerous for those that dont know where the grip threshold is, once you exceed it you might as well sign up for some ice racing,,,

Wow-- lots of response!
Good discussion all.

Some rational i used in mentioning what I did relavant to the discussion going on
.
Additional tire pressure is needed. Short session---really tight turns---he is going to need all the sidewall support he can get without overheating/over pressurization. No matter what you go out with always check them asap when you pit and then go from there as I mentioned. May need increasing, may need decreasing. Lot has to do with drivers style/track temps etc. I am afraid he is going to chunk that left front. 5 laps is not a lot, but there again I dont know how close the sessions are together.
R1's have a operating range from about 170 to a little over 200F when they are shaved. I dont know if his are shaved or not.
I and several others in our club have ran the R1's (always shaved, by the way the R 888 suck!) and they are a workhorse of a tire, we like them. They run better for us with a hot pressure of around 41-42.
I disagree about bleeding the brakes. Since i am assuming he doesnt have high temp track fluid now--it will be a good idea to go ahead and change. Will he absoulutly need it for this short session---maybe not. But I alway say, better safe than sorry, when it comes to brakes. Anyone here ever had a dead pedal?---- scary as hell. As yall know brake fluid also collects water over time and I dont know when was the last time he changed it out. Remember also this is on stock pads and they will not handle the heat as well.
He knows his way around cars and has autocrossed a good bit--i think he can handle a fluid swap out ok:)
And with that in mind I thought I would mention trail braking. This car handles that tech very well and this is a low speed turning track on non r compound tires. He can handle this with caution. he just has to remember smooth and with the nanny on(below) it will make it even easier.
I forgot to mention you probably want to do the 1st session with full nanny on, then progress to off if you find that it is not activating and you are ok with your speed.
Remember also if you are not activating the ABS then you are not using all your brake.. But to start with dont worry about using absoulutly all of your brakes.
Remember SMOOTH.
OD

Thanks everyone for their candid replies.

I’m used to running autocross and now venturing into road courses do in part because most of the Central Florida autox courses are very busy, very short in order to accommodate Miatas/Coopers and the amount of participants. Also, they make the courses busy in order to control the speed due to the limited amount of track running area. Not much joy of running a 23 to 47 second lap and trying to squeeze an RX8 thru a gate where Miata/Cooper can barely fit.

Anyway, thanks again and will let you know Sunday I bad I sucked on the road course. :eyetwitch

go Juan! fingers crossed.
PS Yokohama have a new tyre out now I believe a semi slick to compete with the 888 which will be a lot cheaper than their old AO48 or whatever it was called. It should be really good.

by the way the R 888 suck!

lol. To each their own.
I found it to be the best r-comp money can buy.


Anyone here ever had a dead pedal?---- scary as hell.

The only time I've seen an RX-8 have a brake failure in HPDE is because of improper bleeding.

Other matter :

My pettit's intercooler pump just died !
It still do some noise (awfull sometimes) but I tested it and it do not pump a sh*t !

Other matter :

My pettit's intercooler pump just died !
It still do some noise (awfull sometimes) but I tested it and it do not pump a sh*t !


Lost prime?

Other matter :

My pettit's intercooler pump just died !
It still do some noise (awfull sometimes) but I tested it and it do not pump a sh*t !

80% you lost prime.....It make a god awfull noise when it looses prime.

The two blue relay "holes" light up with a circuit light when testing there, but the multimeter doesn't show anything but a "-" symbol next to zeroes when touching the same "holes".

I put 2 new blue relays in (one for fuel pump and the other for circuit) and the pump still will not prime. I am testing by running a silicon hose from the fuel line ( the upper one that the red clip attaches to) into a small gas can. No fuel or smell whatsoever when attemting to crank. I don't know if i'm supposed to be able to hear the pump when it is trying to prime or run. I have the rear seat cushion and metal cover off and i don't hear anything. The interior lights and accessories all work.

Ideas??
hey
sorry have not been around much..

check every fuse in the efi block in your fuse panel.. that was the issue at my last track day.

oldragger was there.. :) but it was an abscure issue..

beers :beer:

juan,
you might give me a pm or a call before that..


i have done it. i think i got a third in a time attack.. just saying..

fool and money..

just saying..

i think you have my phone #

beers :beer:Denny,

I’m going to run my first road course Sunday. It is a very short course here in Central Florida. Yes, I know about the ones you participate but I’m baby stepping on this one before I try to run with the big boys. The road course layout is in the attached picture and youtube videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18WsPm47D7M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0QG7b2AYwk&feature=PlayList&p=35061E02883BB9B3&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=3

You pretty much know my car setup and I’m rolling on Toyo Proxes R1R (very sticky DOT tires). No, I don’t have the time or money to buy or change tires/setups at the moment cuz I’m in the process of buying/selling a house and I just want to run my car this Sunday to blowup some steam.

Anyway, since you are a marine and always a marine, could you please reply with some pointers in kiss (keep it simple stupid) format. For example tire pressure, rear end-links adjustment and SC RX8 driving technique.

This is a non-timed event. No transponders will be issued. It will be a clear day with temps in the 60, 3 to 5 laps per session and starting at 9am.

Also, I don’t give a shit about wining as to most of the things I do in life. I just want to enjoy running my car fast without worrying about the Po-Po issuing a speeding ticket. :eyetwitch

Thanks,
Juan

80% you lost prime.....It make a god awfull noise when it looses prime.

Yes an awfull noise !
and it do not pump anything !

what to do now ?
What do you call prime ?! Can I fix it ?
Have a hard time finding an other one ...

Yes an awfull noise !
and it do not pump anything !

what to do now ?
What do you call prime ?! Can I fix it ?
Have a hard time finding an other one ...

force water thru it from the (full) reservoir. and make sure that there is no air in the pump at all. Cam has extras and I even have a spare but these pumps seem to last quite a while but do lose prime occasionally. Maybe some one else can be more technical with the way to do it but this is all I do.

Yes an awfull noise !
and it do not pump anything !

what to do now ?
What do you call prime ?! Can I fix it ?
Have a hard time finding an other one ...

Put power to it. Remove the hose between the "aftercooler" and the fluid reservoir on the "aftercooler" side. Put your lips on the hose and blow for 2-3 seconds. Quickly reattach the hose before water starts shooting out of the "aftercooler."

-Yambo

SUCEEDED !!!!!

THANKS ALLLLLLL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and I one more time improve my english because the french traduction for "lose prime" have no relation with the english :)

french traduction

think you meant translation there ?

lol Yes !

JMK, have you put any pics of your car up yet?

Well got to run my first road course and I had a blast. Everything worked perfect except for the brakes. I got lots of fading cuz I’m running ceramic brake pads. That’s my only weak point in my brake system. I already have stainless steel braded brake lines and crosses drilled/slotted rotors. The other car owners were running Hawk HP Plus and reported no fading problems.

My R1R got better after the second lap and the car felt like riding on rails after the 5 lap. The track was 1.6 miles long and we started with 5 laps per session. Then we did 7 and later 10 for a total of over 50 laps or the equivalent of ¾ of a gas tank. I could it drive another session or so but I ran out of methanol (two gallons total) and the gas tank was reading below ¼ full.

Overall, the car ran flawlessly and everyone at the track was impressed. They liked the huge flames shooting out while downshifting. Day temps were in the low 60s and the engine coolant temp never got higher than 200F. The highest engine oil temp I noticed was 209F.

The video below is of my first 5 lap session. My camera batteries ran out of juice just after taking that video, duh! I was getting used to the track and figuring out how to enter and exit a wider apex turn (not like the once I’m used to on autocross). Also, I was able to pass the Miata and a couple of highly tuned (inside and out) N/A Hondas SI when we did the 7 and 10 lap session. However, I was not as aggressive as I wanted due to my brake fading issues. I could not run fast, brake hard and turn as you can hear and see just before the hairpin turn and the other three turns of the track. :evil_laug

Next road course is in May and that leaves me plenty of time to brake in a new set of Hawk HP Plus and a fresh batch of ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2dT3j__MqA

JMK, have you put any pics of your car up yet?

I am waiting for my new bumper !
It should arrived soon ! I choose a classic one as I need the maximum air flow for cooling my engine.
It should arrived soon.
When every thing is ok : picts !! it's a promise :)

I am also waiting for my BMC air filter :)

Well got to run my first road course and I had a blast. Everything worked perfect except for the brakes. I got lots of fading cuz I’m running ceramic brake pads. That’s my only weak point in my brake system. I already have stainless steel braded brake lines and crosses drilled/slotted rotors. The other car owners were running Hawk HP Plus and reported no fading problems.

My R1R got better after the second lap and the car felt like riding on rails after the 5 lap. The track was 1.6 miles long and we started with 5 laps per session. Then we did 7 and later 10 for a total of over 50 laps or the equivalent of ¾ of a gas tank. I could it drive another session or so but I ran out of methanol (two gallons total) and the gas tank was reading below ¼ full.

Overall, the car ran flawlessly and everyone at the track was impressed. They liked the huge flames shooting out while downshifting. Day temps were in the low 60s and the engine coolant temp never got higher than 200F. The highest engine oil temp I noticed was 209F.

The video below is of my first 5 lap session. My camera batteries ran out of juice just after taking that video, duh! I was getting used to the track and figuring out how to enter and exit a wider apex turn (not like the once I’m used to on autocross). Also, I was able to pass the Miata and a couple of highly tuned (inside and out) N/A Hondas SI when we did the 7 and 10 lap session. However, I was not as aggressive as I wanted due to my brake fading issues. I could not run fast, brake hard and turn as you can hear and see just before the hairpin turn and the other three turns of the track. :evil_laug

Next road course is in May and that leaves me plenty of time to brake in a new set of Hawk HP Plus and a fresh batch of ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2dT3j__MqA

Looks like fun - to bad your battery went dead on the camera, would have liked to have seen more.

Great Dude---sounds like the bug has bit:)
I knew your brakes would be getting hot on that course as you really didnt have any cool down time for them.
Did you run with nanny on or off?
Keep your rpms down?
How much oil did you use---maybe 1/2 quart?
You used 2GALLONS of w/m?! Dang dude thats a lot. What were your intake temps?
Maybe because your overall rpms were probably high?
DOnt forget to do the post track maintainence
YOU HAVE TO COME SEE US. If you think that was good---you aint seen nothing yet:)

Well, I got my fuel pump working again. Now I need to reconnect the fuel line. I remember reading somewhere its not a good idea to re-use the old fuel line/connector. Does anyone have some insight??

Well, I got my fuel pump working again. Now I need to reconnect the fuel line. I remember reading somewhere its not a good idea to re-use the old fuel line/connector. Does anyone have some insight??

AN -6?

:dunno:

Is that the part#?

Also, has anyone tried to upgrade their pump to the 255lph Walbro??

i use the 09 pump assembly
What ended up being the prob?
the fuel line that connects by the power brake booster is ok to use again. the one not to use and i have mentioned is the one fthat connects the 2 backs of fuel injectors.

Juan I see you found that maita.
glad you had fun and you are safe.

Great Dude---sounds like the bug has bit:)
Yeap, I already got the brake pads (Hawk HP Plus) and ATE on its way.
I knew your brakes would be getting hot on that course as you really didnt have any cool down time for them.
Did you run with nanny on or off?
50/50 nanny help me with the brake fadding but when off I had better acceleration of the turns
Keep your rpms down?
Hell no...all the way to 8.2 thanks to the meth addiction.
How much oil did you use---maybe 1/2 quart?
Haven't checked it yet. I premix with MMO
You used 2GALLONS of w/m?! Dang dude thats a lot. What were your intake temps?
I remember somewhere around 110F by the end of the 15 lap session with 68F ambient temps.
Maybe because your overall rpms were probably high?
Again, hell yeah!!!
DOnt forget to do the post track maintainence
Working on it.
YOU HAVE TO COME SEE US. If you think that was good---you aint seen nothing yet:)
Maybe in Savanna by the end of the year. :fingersx:

Hey Juan
If I may suggest something---and you may have them already---get the brake "speedbleeders" --makes bleeding the brakes a one man job and easy has heck to do.
Summit racing has them. I think I got "Earls" brand. Inexpensive.
OD

Hey Juan
If I may suggest something---and you may have them already---get the brake "speedbleeders" --makes bleeding the brakes a one man job and easy has heck to do.
Summit racing has them. I think I got "Earls" brand. Inexpensive.
OD

Thanks for the tip OD but I have a better TOOL...my 16 year old son.

It is free labor except to the feeding. :eyetwitch

LOL!
roger that:)

i use the 09 pump assembly
What ended up being the prob?
the fuel line that connects by the power brake booster is ok to use again. the one not to use and i have mentioned is the one fthat connects the 2 backs of fuel injectors.

Juan I see you found that maita.
glad you had fun and you are safe.

I think the pump was going bad, which in turn caused the 20A fuse to blow. I ended up replacing the pump(thanks Juan), all 4 blue "relays" and several fuses.

Just to clarify, we are talking about the fuel line w/red clip that connects right next to the blower manifold??

-Yambo

thats all strange--but glad it is fixed now.
the connection that need replacing is the line that connects the fuel injector rails.
the line down by the power brake booster blower intake/oil dipstick etc can be reused---but do inspect the fittings are ok
OK

LOL!
roger that:)

OD
I forgot to add that the day of the track event I was assigned to run with the Miata, two Honda Civics SI and a Mitsu Lancer (non EVO). The other group consisted of a Viper, two Corvettes (not Z06), BMW 3 series and a Nissan 370Z. They figure that my RX8 didn’t have the cojones to hang out with the big boys. They didn’t know that my 8 is SUPERCHARGED. Halfway thru the track day they ask me if I wanted to race with the big boys cuz they figure that the Hondas and Miata can’t keep up with me. I told them that next time cuz I was having brake fading issues. Anyway, the 370Z was having problems with oil temps. Every time he went over 3 laps on a session his engine oil temp reached over 290F thus sending the car to limp mode. The owner told me that he is planning to install an oil cooler like Nissan is putting on the 370Z Nismo model. And that’s the rest of the story. :eyetwitch

lol--i get that too---surprised looks when i am pulling them on the straights. I love it--especially the ones that have track against other 8's.
I had a STI owner cpme up to me and tell me "Man you are fast, when your car takes set---its GONE." LoL
probably a good thing to stay in the grp you were in. Miata drivers know the momentum car lines and usually those are the best to take. he was not doing badly at all--study his lines and then what you were doing. As yourself why you were not pulling him on corner exit as much as you thought you would?
I stay the hell away from vipers--they usually have drivers that dont know how to drive them well and that makes that car the most unpredicable car on the track--they have such massive lift throttle chassis load changes that it takes an experienced driver to controll them.

When you change pads dont forget to clean the heck out of the rotors and then bed the pads good 1st thing.

Yep z's and 35's have cooling problems too---sometimes on longer tracks the trans also get hot

I would rather drive fast in a slower group than be in a fast group with the high HP idiots that can't drive.....

Every incident I have seen at the track was the "fast" group with the Ferrari's and Porches...and the middle aged men with no clue, other than a large pocket book :)

No offense to an age group that I belong ;)

lol--totally agree dan---totally.
Had a porsche gt 3 driver get fustrated in not leaving me at Roebling road until he spun right in front of me at turn 5 exit--THEN the idiot (and he was an instructor with his student in the car with him!) came BACK across the track still out of control. SO close our eyeballs actually met! i was 2 car lenghts behind him entering the turn --staying a safe distance away.
Idiot.
Roebling has a LOT of run off room and he didnt use it.
When I have a student i constantly remind them ---smooth is fast-- dont concentrate on the speed--concentrate on smooth and the speed will naturally come.
Beginning drivers also fall prey to what we call "The Red Mist". It is more apparant in the higher HP cars. Its means that the driver will start focusing on catching the car in front of him to the point they forget what they are doing and are concentrating on catching that car no matter what. They usually end up overdriving and start turning slower lap times or spinning out. I am sure you have seen that!
As soon as Juan gets his brakes sorted and gets on a track he will be a really fast learner.
Now if i can only get an 09 trans in his car, a better fuel pump, and talk him into keeping his revs down just a little-:)--

As soon as Juan gets his brakes sorted and gets on a track he will be a really fast learner.
Now if i can only get an 09 trans in his car, a better fuel pump, and talk him into keeping his revs down just a little-:)--

I never had an issue with my fuel pump as long as the fuel tank is over a 1/4 of a tank full. I have no problems installing 09 trans as long as someone donates one (I'll pay for the shipping) and keeping my revs down??? are you serious??? Revs to 8.2 and sucking meth like there is no tomorrow. :eyetwitch

:) FP hasnt been tested yet!
I will keep an eye out for that 09 trans sponsor for you. you should feel the difference.
3-4-5 is like a dirt bike.:) and 6fh is a real overdrive--i am now getting 24-25 mpg on the interstate.
tidbit of info---did you know that the centrificual forces at 9K versus 7K rpms is 1.7 times higher?
When you add all this up and you are driving 25-30 miles per session at higher speeds and subtained rpm's the heat really builds between the 7.5 K and 9K
Look at where your TQ curve crosses you hp out put on the dyno?
Really hope you can make it to RR--bring the family--lots of folks do. They will have a blast.
We will roll out the carpet for ya and the initiation wont be TOOOOOO bad:).
OD

OD . This is a point I've been ranting about for a while now . It's pretty obvious to the turbo guys that a reduced redline is a good idea because of the power dropoff after 7500 - so there is no real need to go any higher than about 8k.
However the SC power curve is linear so it does make sense to go to 9000 purely for best acceleration .
BUT : if you gear the SC so it reaches it's peak earlier (say 7500) then limit your redline you achieve the same thing without putting all that extra stress on the engine .....

[QUOTE=marsredr100;3451269]Well got to run my first road course and I had a blast. Everything worked perfect except for the brakes. I got lots of fading cuz I’m running ceramic brake pads. That’s my only weak point in my brake system. I already have stainless steel braded brake lines and crosses drilled/slotted rotors. The other car owners were running Hawk HP Plus and reported no fading problems.

My R1R got better after the second lap and the car felt like riding on rails after the 5 lap. The track was 1.6 miles long and we started with 5 laps per session. Then we did 7 and later 10 for a total of over 50 laps or the equivalent of ¾ of a gas tank. I could it drive another session or so but I ran out of methanol (two gallons total) and the gas tank was reading below ¼ full.

Overall, the car ran flawlessly and everyone at the track was impressed. They liked the huge flames shooting out while downshifting. Day temps were in the low 60s and the engine coolant temp never got higher than 200F. The highest engine oil temp I noticed was 209F.

The video below is of my first 5 lap session. My camera batteries ran out of juice just after taking that video, duh! I was getting used to the track and figuring out how to enter and exit a wider apex turn (not like the once I’m used to on autocross). Also, I was able to pass the Miata and a couple of highly tuned (inside and out) N/A Hondas SI when we did the 7 and 10 lap session. However, I was not as aggressive as I wanted due to my brake fading issues. I could not run fast, brake hard and turn as you can hear and see just before the hairpin turn and the other three turns of the track. :evil_laug

Next road course is in May and that leaves me plenty of time to brake in a new set of Hawk HP Plus and a fresh batch of ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

wow,

after about 8 events at that place i only recognize about 25% of the course. it would be soooooo cool to have a place to run for just a day.. :)

thanks for the video.. juan, as to my pms i guess i got the bad experience, you i think are on the cutting edge of good..

but little run off, you would love robling road! :)

you might ask denny about brake pads. hawk + will not do it.. ;)

beers :beer:

True Scott.
I would love to have a daily run place myself.

Brettus --glad you can see the light:) Road Racing is not all about power anyway. Sure it helps
and there may be times ( to avoid a shift during a dive bomb move etc) that having that extra 1500 rpm could really help, but for hpde guys --it is not worth it. Not at all.
Gas milage goes down a lot, oil useage goes up a lot, and heat goes out the roof for the engine and trans.

Juan the hp+ is a better pad than you have now but once you start using ALL the braking the 8 can do --then they will not hold up on a RR track. Just like Scott has said.
The newer hawks are great, I have used carbotech's for years, and some guys are using the cobalts. The different in the braking (with r compounds on) between a street pad and a middle of the road race pad is like comparing the n/a engine to the fi one.
BIG DIFFERENCE> false teeth better be glued in good!
Step at a time dude.

The newer hawks are great, I have used carbotech's for years, and some guys are using the cobalts. The different in the braking (with r compounds on) between a street pad and a middle of the road race pad is like comparing the n/a engine to the fi one.
BIG DIFFERENCE> false teeth better be glued in good!
Step at a time dude.
Absolutely true there.

Couple HPDEs I've been to, got shotgun rides with Wankelbolt and Matt F (can't recall his username). I run Hawk Ceramics, Wankel uses HP+, Matt is a Carbotech fan. The difference between OEM and the Hawk Ceramics is noticeable, but riding with those two instructors in cars with "gentleman racer" compounds was eye-opening! They could easily go in another full brake marker, plus the sheer violence of the slowdown is astonishing.

First upgrade: supercharger :worship:

Second upgrade: Hawk DTC-series pads

Third upgrade: seats, harness bar and 5-point belts! :D

Third upgrade: seats, harness bar and 5-point belts! :D

Seats ? my dream is to have a statüs alcantra + kevlar seat :crazy:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/wm.php/images/statusring.jpg

did someone gave a try at the HKS Twin Power ?
usefull ? feel a difference?

how about changing the ignition coil ? I saw that some of you run with the BHR
same question as above : usefull ? feel a difference?

did someone gave a try at the HKS Twin Power ?
usefull ? feel a difference?

how about changing the ignition coil ? I saw that some of you run with the BHR
same question as above : usefull ? feel a difference?

Stay away from the HKS and use MSDs.

Either make yours like I did http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2332259&postcount=1

You can make your own wire hardness or buy one from Race Roots or BHR. :eyetwitch

did someone gave a try at the HKS Twin Power ?
usefull ? feel a difference?

how about changing the ignition coil ? I saw that some of you run with the BHR
same question as above : usefull ? feel a difference?

A lot of us are running MSD coils made for the Chevy LS2, you will need to use adapters or put LS2 coil connector ends on the OEM coil wires.

Fluid Motorsports and BHR make adapters, the connector ends for the LS2 are cheap.

Look what the Fat Guy delivered today...wait a minute...it is the month of March...so who was the that fat dude :suspect:

Anyway, I got my Hawk HP + (f&r) pads and the ATE fluid. Ha! :eyetwitch

Nice!
Dont forget to clean the rotors well!
use 2K F grease for the pins. ceramic based
I just got my contour camera in and a 17 inch rearview mirror in--event is next w/e
hope i will have some vids.
49 cars on track the ever present bmw's porsche, mustangs, miata, supra, Ferrari, 370Z, viper and 2 GTR's
i am the only 8 in my class --can pass anywhere on the track with a point by.
back straight speed est 140mph slowing to about 80mph for a hairpin left
i am stoked!!!!
od

A lot of us are running MSD coils made for the Chevy LS2, you will need to use adapters or put LS2 coil connector ends on the OEM coil wires.

Fluid Motorsports and BHR make adapters, the connector ends for the LS2 are cheap.

How About BHR Ignition System ?
clic here tot access to bhr ignition website (http://blackhaloracing.com/products-page/engine/ignition/bhr-ignition-system16/)
It's true that something "plug and play" is more interesting as the results looks to be the same.

did fluidmotorsports ran out of business ? i=their website is closed since a long time !

to take advantage of the ls coils -dont you have to modify the ignition dwell?
OD

to take advantage of the ls coils -dont you have to modify the ignition dwell?
OD

Yes, but not required unless you are pulling more than 330 g/sec at torque peak.

But you really should always do it.

to take advantage of the ls coils -dont you have to modify the ignition dwell?
OD

ignition Dwell ?

Again an english technical term I do not know :confused:
"330 g/sec at torque peak", what does that represent ?

Need Help to choose better coils, but I want to do it well !

ignition Dwell ?

Again an english technical term I do not know :confused:
"330 g/sec at torque peak", what does that represent ?

Need Help to choose better coils, but I want to do it well !

Just slap (install) a set (4 each) MSD ignition coils as I stated before and don't worry about the dwell like Bastage, Rote8 and I do.

BTW, Fluid is now Race Roots. Just follow the instructions from my DIY MSD thread. Instead of making your own MSD coils wire hardness, just buy a premanufactured from BHR or Race Roots.

Also, you can make your own MSD Super Conductor 8.8 millimiter wires in order to complement the MSD coils. :eyetwitch

Just finished installing my new rear Hawk HP + brake pads. Will do the front tomorrow. BTW...my ATE brake fluid bleeding TOOL (son) worked like a charm. :eyetwitch

^ with Russell Speedbleeders you don't need no TOOL. ;)

But I may use my own TOOL for upcoming high flow Cat & Catback install'n.

"Tool" lol. I am sure he is looking forward to driving the beast too:)
ATE is good fluid. You can keep the remaining fluid left over by placing the entire can into a large zip lock bag, so no water contamination!

What type rotors are those?
For a high speed track you may not want to use a drilled rotor? The fronts get REAL hot(thats why we use the craminc based pin grease) and a drilled rotor can crack.
The backs are ok--they dont get nearly as hot.
Slotted ones are ok, although it does take away friction surface.

If you make your own ls ig coil set up wires--then DO NOT FORGET to get the correct boots and clips. Summit racing carries them. They are not expensive. Making wires is really easy to do--just take your time.
Making your own harness is a royal pain.
I took my yukons off and reinstalled oem and added the hks twin fire---no problems here. Its nice to have options.
OD

well today i hit a new personnel record!
WHile getting ready for my upcoming track event this w/e i decided to take it out and do a efi eval
?????!!!!!
MAF reading of 365.15 at 7.5 k and a load of 182
I am OK with this
OD

What was your manifold pressure at that point?
(As a point of reference, if I am moving 370 g/sec at 7500 RPM, my load will be near 195 and manifold pressure is about 9 PSI. IIRC)

Just got back from taking the car for a Hawk HP + brake test.....................wow :Drooling_

What a difference. :eyetwitch

Just got back from taking the car for a Hawk HP + brake test.....................wow :Drooling_

What a difference. :eyetwitch

Aren't they awesome?!?!

Just don't let the sliding surfaces get dry or they'll squeal you to death after a track event.

I have a set of EBC Yellows sitting here that I am gonna compare, but it's gonna be really hard to top the Hawks.

Are you on OE rotors?

"Tool" lol. I am sure he is looking forward to driving the beast too:)
ATE is good fluid. You can keep the remaining fluid left over by placing the entire can into a large zip lock bag, so no water contamination!

Got some leftover.......look like kool aid......if is good for my car....most be good for me too. :rofl:

What type rotors are those?

Cquence F&R Crossed Drilled Brake Rotors...on the car for over two years.....a bunch of autox plus the road course and not a single crack. :eyetwitch


For a high speed track you may not want to use a drilled rotor? The fronts get REAL hot(thats why we use the craminc based pin grease) and a drilled rotor can crack.
The backs are ok--they dont get nearly as hot.
Slotted ones are ok, although it does take away friction surface.
OD

Juan

Aren't they awesome?!?!

Just don't let the sliding surfaces get dry or they'll squeal you to death after a track event.

I have a set of EBC Yellows sitting here that I am gonna compare, but it's gonna be really hard to top the Hawks.

Are you on OE rotors?

Nope....Cquence F&R Crossed Drilled Brake Rotors

Aren't they awesome?!?!

Just don't let the sliding surfaces get dry or they'll squeal you to death after a track event.

I have a set of EBC Yellows sitting here that I am gonna compare, but it's gonna be really hard to top the Hawks.

Are you on OE rotors?


Really :) I'm surprised they hold up for you....

Personally, I'm a HT10 Kinda Guy ;)

Nope....Cquence F&R Crossed Drilled Brake Rotors

Cool.

Just be really careful to cool those down at the end of a session because drilled/slotted are more likely to crack/warp than solids.
Small hairline cracks are somewhat normal, but it is really to get out-of-flat if you don't cool them down.

Really I'm surprised they hold up for you....

Personally, I'm a HT10 Kinda Guy

The HT10 are way too abusive to the rotors for my taste and they don't really have much more torque than the + (and they take a bit longer to develop grab and the "bite" is kinda OEM).
I've never had the HP+ fade on me, even under conditions that set other pads I've tried on fire.

The HT10 are way too abusive to the rotors for my taste and they don't really have much more torque than the + (and they take a bit longer to develop grab and the "bite" is kinda OEM).
I've never had the HP+ fade on me, even under conditions that set other pads I've tried on fire.

If you get on a really high heat track where the brakes don't have much of a chance to cool off...the HP+ will overheat ...I ran 2 sets of them and they wore out fast...

The HT10's have lasted much longer..and haven't caused any different rotor wear on my setup...in the long run they seem to be cheaper than the HP+ as well cause they last at least twice as long when they are really hot. They need a bit more heat in them than the HP+..but I haven't found that difficult :)

If you get on a really high heat track where the brakes don't have much of a chance to cool off...the HP+ will overheat ...I ran 2 sets of them and they wore out fast...

I get a whole season out of a set and two of the tracks I run here monthly have straights that require going from 130+ MPH to 40 and into carousel or a tight left-hander every mile.
Even Firebird East caps its 110+ MPH "straight" with a carousel.

Dunno. My car is pretty heavy, too.

Wow...I ran a set in a 3 day weekend :(

A lot of our tracks are short straights 100-120 down to 30 mph into twisty mid speed stuff that never gives the brakes any time to cool off...

manifold pressure between 9/10 with that reading. Thats one thing I hate about trying to watch ALL the gauges--cant see them all(i have 6!) in a quick glance and a 3nd gear run is over pretty quick.
Nice numbers MM:) especially load.

I run carbontech xp 8's. They are not superexpensive, last a real long time ( I always get a year out of them), very rotor friendly, best modulating pad i have ever had(and I WILL trail brake:)) and you can run them on the street for a while after the event if you dont feel like swapping them out.
several members of our club ran hp+ for a while--maybe a year or 2. They did ok. All of those guys have moved up to time trial's and now have either the cobalts (not my favorite) or the newer hawks (pretty dog gone good)
No one runs drilled rotors on the front---at a major track and if you are using all your brakes--they will sooner or later crack. On the rear they are ok. Most of use either use the oem disc's (hard to beat) or the Racing Brake brand. We all have oem calipers.
Brakes only slow you down anyway!
Maybe brakes are sort of like suspension I guess---each driver has there own likings?

Talking about gauges !
I was thinking about installing an other "water temp", but for the S/C !
what do you think ??

here were me and the rest of the Ga rx8 club will be this w/e
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=2408
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=2414
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=2412

Thats a outside LCD tv to use for track vids etc after the day is over
By the way the weather will be clear Saturday
Has a awning on the paddock side to park all the stuff
wish yall could be there.t

here were me and the rest of the Ga rx8 club will be this w/e
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=2408
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=2414
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=2412

Thats a outside LCD tv to use for track vids etc after the day is over
By the way the weather will be clear Saturday
Has a awning on the paddock side to park all the stuff
wish yall could be there.t

that writing looks like mine at 4am before editing! :)

and you cannot link to the gaclub without a password. ;)

you guys have big fun. is it nasa? how many cars total..

beers :beer:

that writing looks like mine at 4am before editing! :)



That's a bit early in the AM :eek:

That's a bit early in the AM :eek:

yea,

but with my job. that is where i tend to peak! ;)

btw, maybe you could pm me with your project update?

beers :beer:

Thats a outside LCD tv to use for track vids etc after the day is over
By the way the weather will be clear Saturday
Has a awning on the paddock side to park all the stuff
wish yall could be there.t

Gud luk OD and hav fun :eyetwitch

well its done:)
talk about one hell of a time.
Car Heaven--fully prepped GTR's, Farari, Lambo's. Porsches everywhere, open wheel cars,
one of the ugleist new camrao's i have ever seen--you should have seen what they did to that car--jesus.
I little wet weather. the 1st lap on a double yellow on the first session of the day(mine) and a STI spung out!! He is now famous:) Lol
My car was great--the 09 trans was absouluty fantastic, since the gear ratios are so much closer i didnt have to do much work in downshifting at all--no throttle blip was needed! That means a lot.
people couldnt believe the pull in 5th gear
Sorted suspension settings and tire pressures out Saturday and Sunday it was great.
We had a $250K RV to lie around in also--it was great.
I bet we had 15 drivers in total. No offs by anyone!!!
One member Silvereight(great guy and good friend) won TTD class at Road Atlanta with his DD rx8 2005 model. Thats really good at RA!
More to come and questions allowed.
OD

More to come and questions allowed.
OD

Sounds like lots of fun.

So what was for dinner?
Possum Sandwich, Old Milwaukee and Baby Pie?
Just kidding :rollingla

Anyway, videos/picture or it didn’t happen. :eyetwitch

no possum--all the wet weather we are having is keeping them off the roads. had to make do with Zachbys and immodium.
Besides we are suppose to save the good food til company comes.......?:)
OD

"Possum Sandwich":eyetwitch

Them are called "Road Chickens"....
:yumyum:

Besides we are suppose to save the good food til company comes.......?:)
OD

Dads wat am tokeen abut...I'll bring sum gator tails from downunder. :eyetwitch

My bumper arrived !!
I hope to install it to show you picts of my car !

I received too my new air filter (BMC) but wait to receive my oil catch can to install it :)

this was a slow testing session
enjoy

http://www.vholdr.com/node/74428

i am turning about a 1:48 or so here
mount sucks and the microphone suxs---1st time using this set up
driving about 7/10's
i was leaving a lot of time on the track --only downshifted to 3nd on one part of the track etc etc
highest speed approx 135mph--plenty of time over 100--lowest speed about 70
i WAS NOT braking hard

olddragger

well its done:)
talk about one hell of a time.
Car Heaven--fully prepped GTR's, Farari, Lambo's. Porsches everywhere, open wheel cars,
one of the ugleist new camrao's i have ever seen--you should have seen what they did to that car--jesus.
I little wet weather. the 1st lap on a double yellow on the first session of the day(mine) and a STI spung out!! He is now famous:) Lol
My car was great--the 09 trans was absouluty fantastic, since the gear ratios are so much closer i didnt have to do much work in downshifting at all--no throttle blip was needed! That means a lot.
people couldnt believe the pull in 5th gear
Sorted suspension settings and tire pressures out Saturday and Sunday it was great.
We had a $250K RV to lie around in also--it was great.
I bet we had 15 drivers in total. No offs by anyone!!!
One member Silvereight(great guy and good friend) won TTD class at Road Atlanta with his DD rx8 2005 model. Thats really good at RA!
More to come and questions allowed.
OD

siilver for the gold!!!!! sweet.. damp weather? what tires were run in ttd in damp weather?

sorted what suspension? wondering..

may 1 tons of questions for you about the tranny. :)

glad all your stuff is becoming synchronized..

beers :beer:

Don was running the shaved and used 17" triple 8's 245's from last year i think.
A set of new a-6 hoosiers would get him around a little faster!

Scott the 09 trans and the pre 09 diff is the perfect combo for me.
Not only are 3-4-5 so much more usable but 6th is a real overdrive.
4-5th close ratios is were i am really impressed.
BUT THE MOST IMPRESSIVE PART OD THE 09 TRANS TO ME, is the downshifting.
Ratios are so close, very little to no throttle matching is required. That means one hell of a lot in a high speed to low speed turn. Several guys that rode with me (John, Lavent and Brent) said it was like a dang paddle shift car. The transition from a 130-135mph straight-a-way speed on the back part of RA to the 70 mph turn at 10A where i go from 6th to 4th was so effortless i had a hard time adjusting. It really was amazing.
Not only the ratios but the shift gate is wide enough that it makes it much more comfortable in having confidence in being in the gear you like. No more mixing up 3nd with 5th or 4th with 2nd:0!
New suspension --i have a set of the KW V-3's now. Took some dialing in to get it the way I want.
Will you be at Roebling?
OD

sounds awesome, but I'm with Juan! pics!

Just tried to watch vid but the sound drove me crazy. Road Atlanta is my favourite track on Forza motorsport and I was very jealous you can actually drive the real one!

yea sound sux's right now---1st time with any camera--so next time better mount and sound.
RA is one awesome track, very challanging. Should drive out? We had a guy from Texas this time and he is returning to every event at RA.
Video does not do it justice:)
OD

this was a slow testing session
driving about 7/10's
i was leaving a lot of time on the track
i WAS NOT braking hard


WTF ? What happened to balls to the wall pedal to the metal ?

I had to finish my taco during that session:)

I know---come on over and show us how to do it! We need good instructors. We will be at Robling Road 1st part of May.:)
Set a date and come on dude --the more the merrier!
OD

I'm just a beginner man - the rx8 makes me look good though ;)

Don was running the shaved and used 17" triple 8's 245's from last year i think.
A set of new a-6 hoosiers would get him around a little faster!

Scott the 09 trans and the pre 09 diff is the perfect combo for me.
Not only are 3-4-5 so much more usable but 6th is a real overdrive.
4-5th close ratios is were i am really impressed.
BUT THE MOST IMPRESSIVE PART OD THE 09 TRANS TO ME, is the downshifting.
Ratios are so close, very little to no throttle matching is required. That means one hell of a lot in a high speed to low speed turn. Several guys that rode with me (John, Lavent and Brent) said it was like a dang paddle shift car. The transition from a 130-135mph straight-a-way speed on the back part of RA to the 70 mph turn at 10A where i go from 6th to 4th was so effortless i had a hard time adjusting. It really was amazing.
Not only the ratios but the shift gate is wide enough that it makes it much more comfortable in having confidence in being in the gear you like. No more mixing up 3nd with 5th or 4th with 2nd:0!
New suspension --i have a set of the KW V-3's now. Took some dialing in to get it the way I want.
Will you be at Roebling?
OD

yep,

will be at roebling. not sure with car yet.. got many questions for you.. and i just sent you a pm about some spring stuff...

funny.. 04 car wit a 09 tranny or a 09 car with a 04 diff? or just see what a 2010 speed 3 does on track! :) wish i could figure out how to do both.

i cant wait to see how the next three weeks play out..

you going to barber for the indy / ROLEX GT race?

beers :beer:

I'm just a beginner man - the rx8 makes me look good though ;)

come on over..

you can run my 8 for a day.. i will run the ms3.. then we can swap..

REALLY.. i am serious.. the rx8 makes you easy to learn good habits..

or that is what i think.. all the above are way faster, done it longer, more talented than I, but damn i seem to have just as much fun.. ;)

shit, at the last roebling event. denny had a beer or two!


beers :beer:

Bret--dude --didnt mean to sound like i was ragging ya or something.
No one is born knowing.
RR is a really great track to learn on also and a Guaranteed good time will be had. Plus it is not expensive with plenty of track time. less than $250 for the entire w/e.
We will take care of ya----southern hospitality demonstated!
We are going to have a large turn out it seems!

Different differentials?

Is anyone running the 4.1 or 3.9 ring and pinion or dif with the blower?
1st gear seems to be useless, with my current stock 4.44 dif.

Wow . that would be so cool .
I discussed it with my wife and got a reply along the lines of "not f'n likely " . I think i might have heard the word "priorities" a few times mixed in with a few other choice swear words . I think that all meant no, but I'm not sure LOL .

RR is a really great track to learn on also and a Guaranteed good time will be had. Plus it is not expensive with plenty of track time. less than $250 for the entire w/e.
We will take care of ya----southern hospitality demonstated!
We are going to have a large turn out it seems!

What weekend are you talking about???
Sounds tempting as long as southern hospitality doesn't equate to "squell like a pig boy!" :nono:

may 1-2 with Darkside drivers education.
Darkside Drivers Education.com
$227 for the full w/e--long periods of track time and excellant instruction.
Roebling Road is actually my favorite track. Safe track with the highest average speed of all we go too.
we had an outdoor movie theater last year with track vids shown. Fun
It also includes a very excellent supper saturday night for $10.
We all share rooms so that cost is very low--maybe $50 or so.
You come and i swear on my Corps bootcamp graduation book that you will have one of the best times you have ever had with a car. Bring the family--many do.
OD

Has anyone had any cranking or idle issues using spark plugs that are 1-2 ranges colder than stock??

/\ since putting in 9s it has never started a quickly as it used to with the 7s .
Not 100% positive it is the plugs that did that because so much else changed at the same time ........

no problems here
running a cooler "bar" plug---not the rx7's
I dont think we have good enough ignition(oem) for the rx7's plug--just my opinion.
Dont you have to run the rx7 plug without any washer?

Hey I just discovered something --my s.c. is surely sensitive to belt tension. I had it tighened just a tad for the track and it became much more noisy at idle. I loosened it up so you can turn it just a little more than 90 degrees and boy is it now quiete. Not getting any slip that I can hear see with boost gauge.
I also found that by replacing the s.c. oil frequently influences the idle noise.
anyone else?
OD

Any of the lower compression guys make any quarter passes or dyno runs yet? And what are your impressions so far?

I got the car to fire up last week by pull starting it. It didn't want to idle on its own for the first min, but after revving it a few times it idled on its own. I immediately stopped at the end of my street after getting it to start. Keep in mind that this was the first time it has ran since last year. Once I was satisfied that it would idle, I drove it @2.5 miles to a local gas station, doing a couple of "mild pulls" in 3rd and 4th gear, never going over 1-2lbs of boost. It ran fine. Once I stopped at the pump it idled on its own for another 2 min. I had my wife following me in the truck and I got out to talk with her and left the car idling. After @2.5min of idle it shut off. It would not start again. I had the wife tow me back and attempted several pull starts along the way. Sometimes I would leave it in gear even though it wasnt' actually running. It was either that, or have little brake pressure. I am assuming that flooded my engine once again. I was using rx7 plugs in the lead position and 8 plugs in the trailing. I deflooded the motor and tried pull starting again. No joy. The plugs were brand new, so I am not sure if they are fouled. BTB, I have the MSD 8247 coils installed. I have had them for @3yrs now, but I do not think they are the problem. I tested each coil w/plugs out prior to the car firing up and they all "had" spark. My plan at this point is to purchase brand new oem plugs, deflood, and attempt to crank. I cannot pull start anymore unless I wrap my tow line around the crash bar(front nose is off) due to my wifes inexperience towing. She couldn't keep tension in the line and snapped the threaded end of a tow hook off in the crash bar..HAH!

Ideas anyone??

I tested each coil w/plugs out prior to the car firing up and they all "had" spark.

Well, it won't do that, so you did something wrong on that test.
Only leading will fire during cranking.

Just sounds like low compression to me.

Well, it won't do that, so you did something wrong on that test.
Only leading will fire during cranking.

Just sounds like low compression to me.

You are correct. The leading fired while the motor was turning. Does it sound like low enough compression to justify a rebuild?

I dunno. What are the numbers?

The particular situation about a low-compression motor is that the only things it wont do well are idle and start.
Once you are over 3k RPM, it doesn't really matter all that much.
I made just as much power on a motor that had less than 50 PSI in one housing (less than 80 in the other) as I did on a strong motor. It was just hard to hot-start.
Actually, that is the motor I have in the car right now. It still sucks down over 430 g/sec at 7200 RPM.

Glen over here at AZRR told me about a motor he built once with Paul Yaw with no apex seals.
Not bad apex seals. NO apex seals.
It was difficult to start and wouldn't run below 2k or so, but once it was up over 3k, it made normal power.

Not bad apex seals. NO apex seals.
It was difficult to start and wouldn't run below 2k or so, but once it was up over 3k, it made normal power.

:Eyecrazy:

Precisely my reaction.

Paul and Glen are nothing to scoff at, either.

Wow---just when you think you understand something......
What is your vacuum readings(if it starts again)
do the power steering fluid trick to get it going?
was it running good when you parked it last year?
May be bad gas?

I was using rx7 plugs in the lead position and 8 plugs in the trailing. I deflooded the motor and tried pull starting again. No joy. The plugs were brand new, so I am not sure if they are fouled. BTB, I have the MSD 8247 coils installed.

RX7 lead plugs have too large of a gap.
Get a new set of Mazda plugs.
Gap the plugs to 032-034


I do not know if that will resolve it, but those plugs are wrong.


Compression test?
Fuel pressure?
MAF clean?
20 taps on the brake recently?
Plug wires?


What do you use for a tune?

some use the rx7 plugs with no problems--but if i am not wrong they also have upgraded ignition systems? They do burn out (for the lack of a better term) pretty fast but they are cheap and have a colder heat range. They can work.
The msd coil I hear mixed reviews about--but the main thing is --if you dont get the dwell time right then they have no benefit. I dont think anyone has shown if the actual spark with the msd's(or even the ls/yukon) is equal, worse or better than the oem without dwell adjustment? I think maybe the life expectatcy is better.
But dude if your car was running good when you put her up--then she should run good now.
May need a mazda decarboning session?
Let us know what happens.
OD

The msd coil I hear mixed reviews about--but the main thing is --if you dont get the dwell time right then they have no benefit. I dont think anyone has shown if the actual spark with the msd's(or even the ls/yukon) is equal, worse or better than the oem without dwell adjustment? I think maybe the life expectatcy is better.
OD

there has to be some difference. bought my car new, fuel mileage was consistent throughout the months/years. some improvement when i gutted the cat and had MM's calibration flashed, but consistent from then on again. BHR's coils installed with no other changes, mileage has been consistently 2-3mpg better since

I hear you Paul. There are many testimonials that the ls/yukon/msd coils make a difference, but when it comes to proof -- testimonials dont count. I myself believe they are better but i have been more leary of posting that something is "better" without something to back me up.
You know I wish someone would run a scope on the
oem's
oems with twin fire
ls2/yukon set up with oem dwell
same with modified dwell
ls2/yukon with twin fire
then that would answer all the ?'s
I wish i had a scope.
OD

some use the rx7 plugs with no problems--but if i am not wrong they also have upgraded ignition systems?

Not me .

I dunno. What are the numbers?

The particular situation about a low-compression motor is that the only things it wont do well are idle and start.
Once you are over 3k RPM, it doesn't really matter all that much.
I made just as much power on a motor that had less than 50 PSI in one housing (less than 80 in the other) as I did on a strong motor. It was just hard to hot-start.
Actually, that is the motor I have in the car right now. It still sucks down over 430 g/sec at 7200 RPM.

Glen over here at AZRR told me about a motor he built once with Paul Yaw with no apex seals.
Not bad apex seals. NO apex seals.
It was difficult to start and wouldn't run below 2k or so, but once it was up over 3k, it made normal power.

Is there any way to "rig it" so that it starts more consistently?

I figure i'll just set the idle higher to overcome that issue.

start getting into heat issues --- if you idle at 3K
OD

I dunno. What are the numbers?

The particular situation about a low-compression motor is that the only things it wont do well are idle and start.
Once you are over 3k RPM, it doesn't really matter all that much.
I made just as much power on a motor that had less than 50 PSI in one housing (less than 80 in the other) as I did on a strong motor. It was just hard to hot-start.
Actually, that is the motor I have in the car right now. It still sucks down over 430 g/sec at 7200 RPM.

.

your socal dyno seems to suggest low compression does make a difference ?

But dude if your car was running good when you put her up--then she should run good now.
May need a mazda decarboning session?
Let us know what happens.
OD

Morkus, we share the same problem. Put the car up last year; ran like a champ, started easily. 15.5 K mi (as in 15,500). Put on a new blower; wont start now; compression test across all faces shows low. Acts like a classic flood. Been over the installation with FTC, all good. Only conclusion I can come to is that the seals under compression stuck there from sitting so long. When I got the car it smelled pig rich at idle, would stink up the cabin; definitely a good candidate for building up carbon.

Weather's nicer, going to try to pull start it this weekend, the decarbonize like OD sez, but if those seals don't come back out and play, it'll be new motor time.

Standard NGK plugs, new; new RX8 coils, good spark, hot battery (Optima) with a second battery in parallel.

Like you said, no love.

dang dude----winterizing must be a real bitch?
w/m system install time or do you already have one---cant remember.
You probably already know but, MMO or ATF are really good things to use to decarbon . Soak it-soak it-soak it--all faces and then some. Then warn the neighbors/local fire department when you crank it.
fingers Xed

your socal dyno seems to suggest low compression does make a difference ?

Nah. Something else was going on there. Looking at the torque readings, it seems that my wheels were just slipping on the rollers at high RPM on every run, not just the first few (where it completely ran away).
I made 30% more power than that just a week earlier with no changes and the car drives exactly the same.
I'll put it back on the dyno here in Phoenix today or tomorrow and see what's up.

dang dude----winterizing must be a real bitch?
w/m system install time or do you already have one---cant remember.
You probably already know but, MMO or ATF are really good things to use to decarbon . Soak it-soak it-soak it--all faces and then some. Then warn the neighbors/local fire department when you crank it.
fingers Xed


I have stock in MMO. Been a weekly ritual all winter. Rotor faces heavily carboned. I don't know what the previous owner did/was doing, but I'll bet that Cobb AP had something to do with it.

Fire Department - LOL. Yep, they know me.

He---!
Hey MM are you chasing something?

Guy--i finally did it. I have been looking into changing the a/w pump for a while. mine is 3 yrs old and doing ok--but better now than sorry later --right. I sourced a Rule livebait pump that is rated at 500gph in freeflow (much less when under pressure like ours) and I think it did help some. I do have a faster flow but not by a large margin. Its bigger (twice as big) and i mounted it inbetween the front bumper support and air intake of the car. Fit snug and just zip tied it on.
I may try the Ford Lighting one later--dont know yet. This Rule pump cost about $45 and is readly available from Bass Pro or other boating places.
The size of the intercooler intake and exit pipes does cause some restriction (may be a good thing?) and I am not sure if getting a bigger tubed cooler would be any better.
I mean the system works well as is---but i have to tinker with something:)

Nah. Something else was going on there. Looking at the torque readings, it seems that my wheels were just slipping on the rollers at high RPM on every run, not just the first few (where it completely ran away).
I made 30% more power than that just a week earlier with no changes and the car drives exactly the same.
I'll put it back on the dyno here in Phoenix today or tomorrow and see what's up.


I'm blaming the LHC.

:rofl:

So I've been contemplating going S/C vs swapping a 13-brew, the only thing I'm wondering, is there a smaller pulley that is offered. 8 PSI may be fun, but I'd like 12psi. I figure with upgraded fuel system(Walrbo pump and some bigger injectors) and upgraded ignition, running 12psi should be no problem and probably good for 325+rwhp

So I've been contemplating going S/C vs swapping a 13-brew, the only thing I'm wondering, is there a smaller pulley that is offered. 8 PSI may be fun, but I'd like 12psi. I figure with upgraded fuel system(Walrbo pump and some bigger injectors) and upgraded ignition, running 12psi should be no problem and probably good for 325+rwhp

Once the "stock" blower is running, you change the lower crank pulley to a larger diameter pulley.

:ylsuper:

So the actual blower pulley isn't changed like in a conventional procharger setup. The crank pulley is changed to a larger than stock setup? Are these offered or where can you pick one up to raise the boost to around 12psi.

Also, with a setup at 12psi, with bigger injectors, alky/meth injection shouldn't be needed, or am I second guessing this. I'm just tryin to plan things and go with whichever setup is going to be best to meet the power goals I'm wanting.

Larger injectors come with the 12psi pulley, however you should definately build up all areas of concern before considering bumping the power even more, ignition, efficient cooling(coolant, IATs, W/M), the average most 12-13psi SC setups are seeing power wise is about 315-330whp, I only mention that since your have a power goal, do you have an objective with the car? DD, track whore, somewhere in between?

Once the "stock" blower is running, you change the lower crank pulley to a larger diameter pulley.

:ylsuper:


I think the secondary injectors need to be swapped out as well.

Be really, really, really careful with those fuel line connectors.


Larger injectors come with the 12psi pulley, however you should definitely build up all areas of concern before considering bumping the power even more, ignition, efficient cooling(coolant, IATs, W/M), the average most 12-13psi SC setups are seeing power wise is about 315-330whp, I only mention that since your have a power goal, do you have an objective with the car? DD, track whore, somewhere in between?

Dat.

Start small, work out the tune, then go for the bigger pulley if your ass hasn't ripped a hole in your seat from the smaller pulley setup.

If I can get my master mechanic to get busy, I am hoping to have a 12psi pulley that will not slip.................My current large pulley needs help - can't keep it from slipping.

The design is done it just needs some machining and final fitting.......After this last dyno meet I think we are both motivated to complete it.

MM-----Lol----it's good and fustrating to have something to tinker with.
Talcum powder:)

Fate----wise advice has been given. Get the standard 8psi setup to begin with. Run the car--see how you like it. Dont go for a specific hp figue---not speaking of you now but a lot of people cant fully use the power they already have.
The 8psi set up may surprise you.
The 12psi set up will need an injector upgrade ---the fp upgrade is not absoulutely required depending on what you are doing. DO NOT REUSE THE FUEL LINE THAT CONNECTS THE INJECTOR BANKS--it can develope a sudden and catastropic leak if you do.
with the 8 lb set up 300 hp to the wheels is possible but i think most get from the 275-290 range?
325 and above is still within the blowers range but really what makes the difference is the TQ. For example my redline now is at 7.5--7.7 range.
But as stated start out with the 8psi set up---increased power really really changes the car.
w/m is STRONGLY advised imho on ANY fi set up with this engine.

Oh an Phil---- i never get any belt slip (when I have it adjusted right) at my redline? Anyone else?

Larger injectors come with the 12psi pulley, however you should definately build up all areas of concern before considering bumping the power even more, ignition, efficient cooling(coolant, IATs, W/M), the average most 12-13psi SC setups are seeing power wise is about 315-330whp, I only mention that since your have a power goal, do you have an objective with the car? DD, track whore, somewhere in between?

The objective of my car is basically to make panties drop and be fun as fuck to drive. In all reality though, its gona be a cruiser and drift whore.

I've just been doing alot of research between the 13b-rew and doing a supercharger setup, and price for price, they are about the same.

I can get a motor for $750, have it done with a big street port for $1100, gt-35r kit for $2600, PFC for $1100, and fuel system for $850. Thats a little less than $7000 for all of that and I can more than install it myself. That setup without W/M injection would make 450rwhp all day on 15-17psi.

If I went the supercharger route I'm probably 7500-8000 into the setup and probably would make 350rwhp(that is the goal I'd like to make with the renesis).

Just having to weigh different things.

lol----then all you need is the 8lb set up.
A really, really good thing to do also is to get the 09 transmission in it---the gearing is great and the shifting is better. Changes the car a lot.
OD

at the dyno day this past weekend we had an 09 on the rollers and it was interesting to see the gearing changes in action.
4th gear tops out much faster.


back to our reguarly scheduled programming...

Oh an Phil---- i never get any belt slip (when I have it adjusted right) at my redline? Anyone else?


I would have said the same thing until I put it on the dyno. I get a lot of slip when adjusted as directed and even when over tightened. Tried a little bit of everything even belt dressing. We have the solution and now maybe the desire............................................ ......................................

...can be another man's delight.

I would love to be worrying about my belt slipping on my pulley right now.

On my car.

If it actually ran.

Instead of wondering if it ever will :sad:

so you were not holding boost?
what rpm did the belt slip at?
I did have to do a little work on the idler pulley to get mine right. I dont like the idler pulley set up. need a better one---talk to that mechanic:)
usually with belt slippage dont you get erratic a/f's?
so you are going with the cog drive system---interested in the increased noise it will make., if any?

so you were not holding boost?
what rpm did the belt slip at?
I did have to do a little work on the idler pulley to get mine right. I dont like the idler pulley set up. need a better one---talk to that mechanic:)
usually with belt slippage dont you get erratic a/f's?
so you are going with the cog drive system---interested in the increased noise it will make., if any?

To be honest with you I was so pissed that it was slipping that I can't remember what the RPM was but I'm sure that MM and Ray remember.....Already worked on the idler pulley but may do some more.....I will let you know what the outcome is.

It's called the 12PSI pulley, but it's more like 13PSI... and 14PSI right at the top...