i am replacing my plugs and wires what is the torque i need to use on the plugs? I found something that said like 150lbs and that seems insane to me

10-12 lbs with a little oil or antiseize on the threads. Don't leave the lube part out on aluminum engines.:spank:

thank you

also what do u mean dont leave the lbe part out. You mean the anti seize

Dont use oil. Just use Anti-Seize, Remember get the ones with the highest temp u can find. mine rated at 1600f.

Dont even try 150lbs. it will break the plugs/housing or both.

i got the ngk replacements with a set of the magnecore 10mm wires

That should do.

the plugs are easy as hell to replace. Just take some time. and if you have some sort of glasses put it on(eye protection), cuz it sucks to have all those dirt fall on your eyes.

i got the ngk replacements with a set of the magnecore 10mm wires

I'm interested in seeing how this goes for ya, cause I need to do the 30k maintanence soon. When the time comes, I'll be calling you, so get this straight!! :) :) :)

yeah, don't over torque these bad boys. I've heard stories of lead plugs being pushed in / tightened too far and the apex seal coming around and tearing the top of the plug off! :eek:

Anti-seize is definitely your friend.

Aaaagh... cringing at the thought of that happening. :eek:

I'm interested in seeing how this goes for ya, cause I need to do the 30k maintanence soon. When the time comes, I'll be calling you, so get this straight!! :) :) :)

nothing special about changing plugs.

Its as easy as changing a light bulb, its just that you have to jack ur car up for easier access, a little dirty, and some time.

I did mine for maybe 30 minutes. cuz bastards at the dealership didnt use any anti-seize when they did the engine no start tsb, I was afraid that I might break the thread and fuxk everything up. lucky it turns out to be ok.

got new plugs and RB wires. no issues. will replace the plugs again maybe after 20K miles. wires maybe another 40 K

I just take off the front left wheel and change them from there. Don't have to get under the car that way.

I just take off the front left wheel and change them from there. Don't have to get under the car that way.

yup! Easiest way to do it...

Well ill let ya know how it goes. Should be easy. So yuo guys think 10 to 12 lbs or torque is the magic number. Alson anyone using the 10mm magnecore wires?

cornrowdpantha if you want not this Sunday but next is when i intend on doing this. IF you want bring ur 8 over and we can tag team the two of em together. Let me know

I think the spec you saw was 150 inch/lbs........about 12-13 ft/lbs :)

i don't know but it seemed like more than an awful lot. LoL

I have been running Magnecore wires. No complaints here. :)

The 10 MM ones have the same wire inside with a thicker covering. A bit overkill since our exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine. ;)

An old school trick to tell if your current wires are bad is to lightly mist around the current wires when the engine is running. If you see a lightning show then the current wires should be replaced because the jacket on the wires has cracks.

I just ordered new plugs but found out they are the old ones. What is the differance between the new version and old.

I found this in the DIY: spark plug removal thread. Seems to be on point, so...

Just received my new plugs from sparkplugs.com and noticed the part # for the leading plug was different than what is called out in the workshop manual. It also has notches in the end that I hadn't noticed in any pictures before.
RE7A-L vs. RE7C-L

The following explains the difference (copied from sparkplugs.com)

NGK: Racing plug

14mm thread, 21mm reach, 20.6mm(13/16") hex, 62mm height, Trailing plug, solid terminal, notched shell aids cleaning, fine wire, (.08mm) iridium center electrode, fine wire platinum ground electrode .048" gap (1.2mm)

Original equipment, fine wire plug designed to give you optimum spark from your existing ignition system. Slightly recessed fine wire iridium center electrode requires less voltage to ionize(jump) the plug gap. This allows a stronger spark which will better ignite the air fuel mixture leading to more power. The iridium center and platinum ground electrodes for extreme durability. Fine wire platinum ground electrode to reduce quenching. This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.

NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL $19.95

I'll be putting these in tomorrow morning. My car is a December, 2003 build date with 30K miles and has had several different flashes.

I just ordered new plugs but found out they are the old ones. What is the differance between the new version and old.

Revised plugs has gaps in them so if theres too much gas in the chamber, instead of stuck in the center, it will slip thru the gap.