I wanted to start this thread, because I continuously see threads that contain information on small mods or add ons that can improve your 8's performance or reliability. if you have any to add I would appreciate you PMing me so that we can update continuously and have a concise point by point thread.

PREMIX
Many 8 owners are now Premixing addatives when they fill up their gas tank. For this you should pour it into your gas tank then fill up your tank with PREMIUM FUEL. Some may say that you can use 87 octane, however, 91 is what the 8 is meant to have so it runs as smooth as possible for the longest time.
Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix) - Synthetic Blend is the rotory enthusiasts blend. It was made specificaly for rotory engines. Second on the line is Castol Super 2 Stroke.
Links:
Premix oil thread
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=98257&highlight=premix



TRANNY AND DIFFERENTIAL OIL REPLACEMENT
Many rx8 owners have also expressed a love for swapping the stock tranny and diff fluid for ROYAL PURPLE fluid. This is said to ease the shifting on a manual rx8 and also make it run smoother.
Links:
Best how to on replacing fluid (with pics)
http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/


THROTTLE BODY BYPASS MOD
This is very important for those who live in hot temperatures. Many have said to get a marble or sand in a can sound and it seems as though a contributing solution to this is doing this mod. It is cheap and easy.
Links:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=36389&highlight=Throttle+body+bypass


OIL CATCH CAN
The oil catch can is a mod that is cheap and has a DIY. It is usefull because the 8 can build up sludge from burning oil and such. It can build up in your intake, not only can that reduce your milage, but it can build up in your engine as well.
Link:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=100635.html

FANSWITCH DIY
This mod changes the setting on your cooling fans and thereby can lower temps uner your hood faster than under normal operating conditions. As we all know, the rotory engine produces more heat than piston engines, so any cooling mod is rather important. Imagine driving your 8 on errands all day... heat soak much? After a long hot day in Florida, even a piston engine is a little sluggish. So being able to lower your engine temps by up to 30 degrees in some cases is very useful.
Link:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=97278&highlight=fan
This may be the same thing but still another link that will explain it more.
MAZSPORT COOLING MOD
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=cooler


As far as the ac and rad screens, anyone here got a way to make these for 10 bucks? i would suggest going to home depot and and finding screens. Shouldnt be to hard.



Thanks for everyone messaging and writing in, please keep it up.

Blake

good idea Silver


Here is the fan switch DIY

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=97278&highlight=fan


and the Mazsport cooling mod - which is cheap-ish & easy to DIY

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=97085&highlight=cooler

Instead of premixing you can use Lube Control FP60. It improves gasoline combustion, reduces carbon buildup, increases MPG and cleans injectors/fuel system. A lot easier than premixing IMHO.

Not reliability tips would be complete without the protection screen for the A/C and rad.

The radiator and a/c condensor are virtually unprotected from rocks. Anything smaller than about 3" can smash into the cooolers, which are only thin aluminum.

A rad puncture is bad news, and an a/c hole will be big bucks.

You can put mesh over the large bumper holes, or add wire screens in front of the fins.

S

This talk of FP60 only started after Jax_RX8 joined and now it seems to be talked about as the greatest fuel additive out there. He also advocates BG Syncroshift II, but that doesn't seem to have caught on much. I'll continue to use my stock of Idemitsu premix while you guys run FP60. Keep me updated on the results though.

I would say Premix is the best thing you can use to protect your engine, hey its not expensive either.

Fuel injector cleaner I would say use it maybe every few K miles or so should be good enough. I just had my first Fuel Injector cleaner today, well, Im not sure but it seems that after some hard driving with the injector cleaner, it seems to be even smoother

This talk of FP60 only started after Jax_RX8 joined and now it seems to be talked about as the greatest fuel additive out there. He also advocates BG Syncroshift II, but that doesn't seem to have caught on much. I'll continue to use my stock of Idemitsu premix while you guys run FP60. Keep me updated on the results though.

I have discussed each several times and do personally use and endorse both products FWIW (I have no affiliations) - just offering information that did not seem to be available anywhere on this forum for your consideration.

As for Idemitsu Premix, I think it is also a great product. I intend to use this with a Sohn OMP adapter (ordering soon) as I think this will definitely help lubricate the engine seals better (than standard engine oil feed) with less carbon. I will continue to use FP60 as the regular fuel additive as well for all the benefits it provides. I think this combination will create a great lubrication and carbon fighting tandem for a long lasting engine.

For the purpose of this thread, I think the Richard Sohn OMP Adapter mod should be added as a reliability mod. Here is a link to a DIY to perform the mod and another for obtaining the adapter for those interested:

http://www.turborenesis.com/ompadapter.html

http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_injector_pump_adaptors.htm

Not saying FP60 doesn't work, but since I currently have a stock of Idemitsu not to mention the list of stuff I want to buy for my car is long, I'm going to hold off on getting it until people start reporting results.

You "just add it to the gas tank", so how is it easier than pre-mix?

S

care to expand on this. we would use premix for lubrication instead of oil? So now what happens with everything oil related? I can see how premix could be used but i also see that premix is premix for a reason. If you could tell us the long term effects of this. How much is it and where to buy i also helpful. but hey if it works and it means less carbon build up im all for it. a 1.3 displacment can do with as little buildup as possible. I wonder why its not a 2.0 lt. wouldnt that be nice?


Edit:
(wow just posted this and somone already asked what the longterm results were, we are sharp today)

Nobody is using premix INSTEAD of oil, I don't want to imply that. You still need oil in the sump.....

The oil added to the fuel just lubes the parts that the engine oil can't reach.

S

Back to the cheap reliability mods -

Anti-seize on the plugs, and wheel studs.
I'm pretty sure that all Mazda techs now routinely put the antiseize compound on the plugs, but if you check them at home, make sure to add a dab of it when you rethread them. Been there, very expensive T-shirt aquired.....
The wheel studs need a dab too, in order for them to come off clean next season, don't get any on the V shaped seat of the nut, where it meets the wheel, just the threads.
Since you got the wheels off, now is a good time to back out the big bolts that hold the calipers in place - a dab of anti-sieze on the threads will make the 50k brake job quick and easy instead of a knucklebusting nightmare.

...Oh, and oil cooler screens too!!

S

Nobody is using premix INSTEAD of oil, I don't want to imply that. You still need oil in the sump.....

The oil added to the fuel just lubes the parts that the engine oil can't reach.

S

Well technically if you use the OMP adapter and put premix in the tank it's connected to, then you're using the premix instead of [crankcase] oil :) I think that's what he meant.

Well technically if you use the OMP adapter and put premix in the tank it's connected to, then you're using the premix instead of [crankcase] oil :) I think that's what he meant.

Exactly - using better 2-cycle oil (pure Idemitsu Premix, not diluted) instead of crankcase oil to feed the OMP will provide better and cleaner burning lubrication from the start. Adding FP60 into the gas (in addition to the mod), provides some additional lubrication benefits, but with the additional benefit of superb cleaning which is just as important to prevent carbon buildup.

This is my recipe for a long lasting, clean running engine. Other's may work as well, but IMHO from all that I have read on this forum and others, this is my plan.

Since you got the wheels off, now is a good time to back out the big bolts that hold the calipers in place - a dab of anti-sieze on the threads will make the 50k brake job quick and easy instead of a knucklebusting nightmare.


If you do this, adjust the torque you use on them, since anti-sieze leads you to over-torquing stuff because it lubricates the threads.

Adding FP60 into the gas (in addition to the mod), provides some additional lubrication benefits, but with the additional benefit of superb cleaning which is just as important to prevent carbon buildup.
Just got my gallon of FP60. 3 ounces will be going in on the next fillup.

Please explain about FP60. What is it and where do I buy it? I am new to rotory motors, and have much to learn. :Eyecrazy:

I also want to change all my fluids to Royal purple. I know how much I need for the engine, how much do I need ( and what kind ) for the auto trans, and the differental? Please help with info.

I also want to change all my fluids to Royal purple. I know how much I need for the engine, how much do I need ( and what kind ) for the auto trans, and the differental? Please help with info.

I just did that this sat, I used this write-up (http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/) as a guide. btw, I used idemitsu 75W90 and the difference is like night and day :mdrmed:

I also want to change all my fluids to Royal purple. I know how much I need for the engine, how much do I need ( and what kind ) for the auto trans, and the differental? Please help with info.

Its in the manual.


and yes it a day & night .....

Please explain about FP60. What is it and where do I buy it? I am new to rotory motors, and have much to learn. :Eyecrazy:

Rotary engines are prone to building up carbon due to less complete combustion of the fuel than a piston engine and the addition of oil for seal lubrication from the OMP.

To keep the carbon cleaned out, you need to exercise the engine (run to redline) every once and a while and run a good cleaner in the fuel. BG44k or Techron is good for one-time clean-ups, but Lube Control FP60 is a cleaner with many benefits that is added to every tank and is bought by the gallon (add 2-3 oz per tank). Here is a link for their website and a link to BITOG where this product is discussed (search for Terry Dyson of Dyson's Analysis comments as he has tested many times).

http://www.lubecontrol.com/

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB5&Number=300502&Searchpage=1&Main=300500&Words=+Terry&topic=&Search=true#Post300502

^good read...but the second post is mostly abotu diesel trucks..and fleet vehicles (that are diesel). they mention using it in there cars every now and again...

i think i shall have to get a gallon and see for myself.

If you do this, adjust the torque you use on them, since anti-sieze leads you to over-torquing stuff because it lubricates the threads.


Torque is torque lubrication does not affect the amount, it just lets you get there with less resistance. I assume you are using a torque wrench.

now lets go into where to buy Idemitsu premix and fp60

^good read...but the second post is mostly abotu diesel trucks..and fleet vehicles (that are diesel). they mention using it in there cars every now and again...

i think i shall have to get a gallon and see for myself.

This particular post does refer to diesel as it works in both equally effective, it is just that many fleet and corporate tests are more for diesel. There are many other posts discussing gas, just search on "Terry" or "MolaKule" as there is much to read. Terry is an Oil Analyst and MolaKule is a chemist.

I think you will be pleased, but let us know your impressions after you use it a bit.

now lets go into where to buy Idemitsu premix and fp60

Buy FP60 from straight from Lube Control at the site below:

http://www.lubecontrol.com/

Idemitsu can be bought from Rotary Performance at the link below:

http://www.rx7.com/store/rx8/rx8engine_maintenance.html

Torque is torque lubrication does not affect the amount, it just lets you get there with less resistance. I assume you are using a torque wrench.


Lubrication will allow the bolt to make more turns before reaching a given torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. Thus, there will be more strain and elongation of the lubricated bolt. The RX-8 torque specs for the wheel lugs is quite high. If you torque to that value with lubricated threads you may very well exceed the limits of the bolts. This is one reason why wheel lugs should not be lubricated.

Now we'll see a few posts of people who "always lubricate my wheel lugs and never have any problems", but does not invalidate my point.

Lubrication will allow the bolt to make more turns before reaching a given torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. Thus, there will be more strain and elongation of the lubricated bolt.


So a rusty nut and bolt at 25 Ft lb's is torqued less than a lubricated nut and bolt at 25 Ft lb's

Sorry, just not how it works...

Coop, you're misunderstanding the point of torque. It's not actually the torque that matters. It's the stretch of the fastener.

Torque on the nut is actually a very poor measure of fastener stretch because the friction on the threads is a huge portion of the resistance. If you change this friction, you'll end up with wildly varying amounts of stretch in the bolt for the same amount of applied torque.

Yes, the torque applied to the outside of the nut is the same in all cases. The number of turns the nut makes before reaching that torque will change a lot based on friction, and the number of turns is actually what you want to control because it relates more to bolt stretch.

Look up anti-seize manufacturers and you'll see they usually tell you to torque x% less when using their product, but even this is a pretty poor estimate.

For most bolts, thread lubrication before torquing is OK, when new there is no rust and probably a little residual lube present.

The actual contact face of the stud must stay clean and unlubed or risk loosening.

S

Years ago I had a couple of annoying experiences with lug nuts that would not come off - they were frozen in place. No overt corrosion - just the customary grey patina - but they wouldn't budge with normal lug wrenches. One took an impact wrench to remove, the other took a breaker bar along with a Sacred Ceremonial Cheater.

Ever since then I've always lubed lug nuts, both the thread and the tapered seat. Just a drop of engine oil. (Good supply at the end of the dipstick if I was roadside.) Tighten to specs with a torque wrench. Never had one come off or even seem to be looser than it should have been.

Generally, when the amount of tightening is critical, the torque spec is for a lubricated bolt. For example, one always lubricates head bolts. Torquing a dry fastener is pretty unpredictable. I suspect that lug nuts are speced dry because people are not likely to lubricate when they change a flat tire.

Ken

good read. im liking the night and day difference. thats a good sign. glad to hear it.

Exactly - using better 2-cycle oil (pure Idemitsu Premix, not diluted) instead of crankcase oil to feed the OMP will provide better and cleaner burning lubrication from the start. Adding FP60 into the gas (in addition to the mod), provides some additional lubrication benefits, but with the additional benefit of superb cleaning which is just as important to prevent carbon buildup.

This is my recipe for a long lasting, clean running engine. Other's may work as well, but IMHO from all that I have read on this forum and others, this is my plan.

Update - Completed the OMP Adapter install and have been running on Idemitsu Premix for the OMP Oil feed while still adding the FP60 to the gas (1 oz per 5 gallons rate).

I have noticed that the 8 now seems to be burning much, much cleaner as it has almost totally eliminated any exhaust tip carbon (original exhaust as I have not received the Hymee exhaust I ordered yet). There is almost no carbon now and what is there is lighter in color - which indicates to me a much more complete, cleaner burning combustion.

I highly recommend this duo formula to others as well.

Did you buy the Adapter and the "Adjuster"?

Did you buy the Adapter and the "Adjuster"?

I only bought the Adapter as I am letting the Computer control flow rate via the latest update. I think the new flow rate is enough lubrication (feeding the Idemitsu and using FP60 in the tank) so I did not get the adjuster.

But for others that want/need even more lubrication, especially FI engines, the adjuster would be a very good add-on as it is only about $20 more.

cool - thanks.