Update: So the power steering failed again after I cleaned the connectors. before it went out, I was able to turn to the left TOO easy and to the right had some resistance. Then the entire power steering failed. I replaced the power steering ECU but it went out 2 days after that again! So I put my old ECU back in and replaced the harness for the power steering. Now the power steering works better than ever and I have not had a single issue since.

 

That's exactly what was happening to me, but I never replaced the ECU thanks to the posts here. Most of the time is the harness. Hope you were able to get a refund for the ECU!

 

Ok...I have a huge problem...power steering went out AGAIN!!! I have replaced the ECU and the Harness and still it fails about a week later. I would say it is the rack however with it being an intermittent problem, it comes and goes, I cant think it would be the rack. i would think if it was hardware like the rack, it would be out all the time once it fails. But with it being a problem that comes and goes throughout the day, I am still saying its electric.

 

I also replaced my harness with a new one and it still failed a couple of days afterwards.

One thing I noticed, when PS does fail, all I would have to do to get it to work temporarily is turn off the engine. Open hood and slightly nudge (or wiggle) the top 3-prong torque sensor wire (near the connector) on the power steering harness. And then when I turn on the car, PS will work for a day or so. You might want to try this. I have a MS CAI with the bottom intake tray removed, so my harness is easily accessible.

I got fed up having to keep doing that, so back in August I ended up taking it to the dealer to get it looked at by one of their rotary techs. The problem was so intermittent, even he couldn't really pin-point what exactly was causing the problem. Went there several times back and forth, until "magically" somehow it no longer comes on, and has been working fine for the past couple of months. I only ended paying the initial diagnosis fee of $89, thank god, even though he spent hours on it.

At first he thought it was a grounding issue as it was a common problem with other Mazda models. So he sanded down the cross-bar to bare metal where the main ground is connected. Then tied in all the grounds on the harness together to the main ground wire (see pic below). It did work for a couple of days, that is until the dreaded PS light came back on.

Then he told me to bring it in when the PS light is on so he can pull a code from the ECU. Which I did a couple of times, but whenever he would turn it on PS would be always be working. He was able to pull a code once in one of my visits, came up as "intermittent torque sensor failure on the PS rack". But when he tested the sensor on the rack as well as everything else, ECU, harness, it all tested out fine. He wanted me to bring it in again when the PS light came on again so he can pull the code again to confirm. Of course, whenever I would bring it to him and turn off the engine, he'd start it and the power steering would work, and he'd be unable to pull any codes. I did bring it to him with the car still running, but he'd always be busy and unable to look at it right away, so I'd end up turning the engine off. So damn frustrating!

On my last visit, I re-iterated to him that I am able to wiggle the torque sensor wire on the harness to get it working temporarily. So he got me to turn the steering wheel while he wiggled the harness. Low and behold, the stirring wheel jerked to one side, but the PS light didn't come on. He ended up just zap strapping the harness in place to secure it's position, and he then put dielectric grease on the prongs on both top connectors in the harness.

That was in Aug. and since then it's been working fine without a failure yet. I was just about to buy a refurb. rack off eBay too, but the tech told me to hold off until it was completely evident that it is a rack problem, and not waste money by "throwing parts at it", hoping to solve the problem. He said it is very rare for the PS rack to fail, and he's never had to replace one.

 

Thanks a lot for this post man! I went home that night and secured the harness connectors even more and wouldn't you know it, power steering is back and working great in both directions!!! I guess as you drive they shake loose and lose power steering. Its working like a champ now! Thanks man!

 

I tried searching but is there a DIY on replacing the wire harnesses?

After my engine was replaced my PS has been perfect and the dealership said if the PS doesn't act up after a week it's most likely the harness because they cleaned the connectors when replacing the engine.
I was also told if your battery terminals are bad or if the battery isn't properly secured, that that would also cause the PS to act up.

 

I'm not recommending it, but this is why hard wiring it and taking the connectors out of play works for some people.

Dave

 

That's what I did back in '08 (you can read about that earlier in this thread) and since then, I have yet to experience power steering lose.
I'm glad I went this route.

 

There honestly is not a DIY needed for the harness. Its about 3 feet long with 4 connectors...there honestly isn't a way to mess it up...all the connectors will only fit in the right place and you can see the entire harness before you even start. Only difficult part, if you don't have skinny hands, is getting your hands in some of the places. I am sure it would be easier if you put the car in the air so the bottom two connectors were more accessible...but I was lazy and just went at it from the top and just scraped my hands a little

 

I also hard-wired my upper connectors during my PS diagnosis. My issue ended up being the u-joint, but knowing I never have to worry about that connector is a comfort.

 

Wasn't recommending it for the simple reason that some might just cut the wires, twist them together and use tape, wire nut, or something else disastrous.

 

Yeah....+1 on that. If you are going to delete the connector, make sure you know what you are doing, and can re-wire it solid properly (solid connection, won't wiggle free, completely shielded from the environment including heat, etc...)

If you aren't comfortable doing that, then just clean and/or replace the connector. Maybe wrap the whole connector in electrical tape to shield it better.

 

Not trying to offend anyone at all........but never, ever.......underestimate the stupidity of the human race.
Just when you think you've seen it all.

 

LOL, I do understand where you are coming from there Mazurfer! My power steering went out again today but was weird. I was parked speaking with a buddy today and my wheel was slightly turned to the left. All the sudden the wheel jerked back to the right to straighten up the wheels and the power steering light came on. I killed the car, wiggled the connectors under the hood, started it back up and power steering was fine. So...this weekend I will be using the knowledge I gained from working on the electronics for missile systems in the ARMY and delete the connectors and hard wiring the harness in.

 

So I installed a new wiring harness last weekend and drove it around for a week. The problem still remains. Turning left is good but turning right still has more resistance and shudders when engine is cold. No PS lights though. Beside battery connection, has anyone considered the alternator? The problem temporarily goes away after driving it for a while.

 

New harness has seemed to fix mine today, thanks everyone!

 

great information guys.Thank you very much

 

The alternator shouldn't be the cause. If your car starts in the cold mornings that means your battery has charged the previous time you have driven the car. Since you mentioned that you have installed the new harness, have you considered cleaning and tighten the the male/female connections (located on the fan) securely? Its been discussed in previous posts.

You know what fixed mine? ZIP TIES! Been like that for at least a year and a half and haven't encountered this EPS problem.

 

Yup, that's what seems to of solved my issue as well.

Along with placing dielectric grease on the male-prongs in the top two connectors, to help prevent corrosion.

 

I'll say it again................I hope you guys all extended the overflow hose from the coolant bottle down below those connectors as well.

 

I feed mine directly in to the intake.
This way I don't have to Seafoam anymore.


Or get ripped off buying one of those Water/Meth kits

 

Any special kind of spray, just water and a rag.... What did you guys use to clean

 

Since this is in the power steering failure thread, I'm going to assume you are referring to the power steering connectors. My recommendation is to use MAF cleaner. I'm sure there are other ones that will do the trick as well, but it's my preference.

 

Since the connectors may still lock poorly taping them is not a bad idea. Welding is another solution should the problem arise, as it has already been stated.

 

I can see someone trying to Mig weld the connectors.