Power Steering Failure
04-19-2011, 06:53 PM
#251
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Ok guys thank's for all ur help, but what i figoured was going to happen happened..
When my mechanic did the transmission flush he also cleaned the wiring harness and what not. the car was great for about a week and a half. but now my p.s went out again :'(
what i dont get is how it works sometimes and it will go out again? weird...
but he told me he was going to clean it again, any more suggestions guys. thanks...
if all else fails i think im just going to get a new wire harness hopefully that is all i will need.
P.S He charged me 125 total for transmission flush and to clean wire harness.... You guys think it was a good price...
When my mechanic did the transmission flush he also cleaned the wiring harness and what not. the car was great for about a week and a half. but now my p.s went out again :'(
what i dont get is how it works sometimes and it will go out again? weird...
but he told me he was going to clean it again, any more suggestions guys. thanks...
if all else fails i think im just going to get a new wire harness hopefully that is all i will need.
P.S He charged me 125 total for transmission flush and to clean wire harness.... You guys think it was a good price...
04-19-2011, 07:40 PM
#253
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Just recounting my experience, just to add it to the list.
Power steering was working fine, I turned the car off, when I turned it back on a moment later there was no power steering, this is about a week after a coolant overflow.
Took it to Mazda at 8am(today) 3 days later, told them I thought it might be corroded wires, picked it up an hour ago, they sanded down the connections works like new. tada.
the corroded wires cause an intermittent voltage drop which can cause no power steering, uneven power steering or oversensitive power steering(wtf??)
All in all cost me 0 Dollars and 0 Cents.
For those who are curious about the middle of the 3...
Thee main one being that the power steering module is set up in series so all power is funneled through one servo prior the other but the amperage is high enough to top out both servos, when the battery drops to below 11.5v/3.5amp only one servo gets enough juice to work properly.
Power steering was working fine, I turned the car off, when I turned it back on a moment later there was no power steering, this is about a week after a coolant overflow.
Took it to Mazda at 8am(today) 3 days later, told them I thought it might be corroded wires, picked it up an hour ago, they sanded down the connections works like new. tada.
the corroded wires cause an intermittent voltage drop which can cause no power steering, uneven power steering or oversensitive power steering(wtf??)
All in all cost me 0 Dollars and 0 Cents.
For those who are curious about the middle of the 3...
Thee main one being that the power steering module is set up in series so all power is funneled through one servo prior the other but the amperage is high enough to top out both servos, when the battery drops to below 11.5v/3.5amp only one servo gets enough juice to work properly.
Last edited by StreetGT; 04-19-2011 at 07:42 PM. Reason: jus fixin' ma grammmrr
04-20-2011, 03:19 PM
#254
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I had the power steering blues.
Last night, I removed the air box and lower black plastic panel. Sure enough, there were my two power steering connections, right there under the radiator overflow where they were supposed to be. I really can't believe the engineers at Mazda would allow one car to roll off the line with that kind of fault. If we can't agree it's a bad idea to dump coolant into an upward-facing electrical connection, one that's in fact responsible for directional control of the entire car, I don't know what else to say.
That kind of inherent setup for failure is enough to make you wonder about the whole car. We're not talking about air conditioning or heated seat connections here, this is the f*cking steering. If we can't steer the vehicle, what the hell are we doing here with the whole project? The whole rest of the car is just there to add momentum to whatever it is we inevitably hit.
Anyway, mitigation. An application of denatured alcohol, followed by a good rubbing with a Q-tip and then blowing out with compressed air, was enough to get my Eight turning again. It's an easy fix, I just can't believe all this time and I never knew that was set up like that.
In my defense, who would guess a car company could possibly be that stupid.
Last night, I removed the air box and lower black plastic panel. Sure enough, there were my two power steering connections, right there under the radiator overflow where they were supposed to be. I really can't believe the engineers at Mazda would allow one car to roll off the line with that kind of fault. If we can't agree it's a bad idea to dump coolant into an upward-facing electrical connection, one that's in fact responsible for directional control of the entire car, I don't know what else to say.
That kind of inherent setup for failure is enough to make you wonder about the whole car. We're not talking about air conditioning or heated seat connections here, this is the f*cking steering. If we can't steer the vehicle, what the hell are we doing here with the whole project? The whole rest of the car is just there to add momentum to whatever it is we inevitably hit.
Anyway, mitigation. An application of denatured alcohol, followed by a good rubbing with a Q-tip and then blowing out with compressed air, was enough to get my Eight turning again. It's an easy fix, I just can't believe all this time and I never knew that was set up like that.
In my defense, who would guess a car company could possibly be that stupid.
Last edited by AJRX8; 04-20-2011 at 03:25 PM.
04-20-2011, 05:25 PM
#255
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^........well................as many of us have now done, I hope the two of you have extended that overflow hose down below the connectors now????? I have and mine runs down beside the fan all the way down to one of the slots in the undertray, and it sicks out of there by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Only place mine is ever going is on the ground!
But to be fair, we are now trashing Jeff's thread as his issue was different and the whole cleaning the connectors etc, is best left to discuss in those threads.
But to be fair, we are now trashing Jeff's thread as his issue was different and the whole cleaning the connectors etc, is best left to discuss in those threads.
04-26-2011, 10:08 PM
#257
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My issue looks like it was entirely just a needed regreasing of the u-joint.
Simple and dirt cheap, so I would recommend checking it and/or greasing it occasionally.
(making it jump out for people skimming the thread)
Just jacked up the left front, removed the wheel, the steering shaft is right inside the frame, just forward of the spark plugs. The u-join is right above where the axle meets the frame. Hose it down with WD40 or carb cleaner or something to flush it out. Let it dry, hose it down again, let it dry again, maybe repeat a 3rd time. Rotate the wheel a quarter turn each time or so to get other angles. You want all of the grime and dirt particles out/off. Once it is mostly dry again, grab some grease and liberally apply it in there with your finger (or a grease gun if you have one with a long enough nozzle, mine isn't). spin the wheel back and forth from lock to lock a few times, rub the grease around in the join periodically to make sure it gets everywhere.
Steering lumpiness gone, all back to normal.
Simple and dirt cheap, so I would recommend checking it and/or greasing it occasionally.
(making it jump out for people skimming the thread)
Just jacked up the left front, removed the wheel, the steering shaft is right inside the frame, just forward of the spark plugs. The u-join is right above where the axle meets the frame. Hose it down with WD40 or carb cleaner or something to flush it out. Let it dry, hose it down again, let it dry again, maybe repeat a 3rd time. Rotate the wheel a quarter turn each time or so to get other angles. You want all of the grime and dirt particles out/off. Once it is mostly dry again, grab some grease and liberally apply it in there with your finger (or a grease gun if you have one with a long enough nozzle, mine isn't). spin the wheel back and forth from lock to lock a few times, rub the grease around in the join periodically to make sure it gets everywhere.
Steering lumpiness gone, all back to normal.
Thanks!
04-27-2011, 06:15 AM
#258
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^ lower joint just above the rack in this diagram
^ this one is RHD, but follow the steering wheel and shaft down to the rack, you can see the U-joint just above it, and it's position in relation to the suspension on that side
^ In this picture from Altspace of the plugs through the wheel well, you can see the steering shaft angling from upper right towards lower left. The u-joint is just out of this image to the left down the shaft.
Here is another shot from the plug change DIY that you can see the steering shaft in.
I will replace these if I can remember to go take a pic myself
04-28-2011, 08:19 PM
#259
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Thanks a bunch! This makes it a lot easier to locate. I will replace the harness, I already got the new part, and do the spark plugs and ignition coils while at it.
05-01-2011, 02:18 PM
#260
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Thanks for the great info! Had the lumpy steering appear suddenly the other day (and having a minor overheating issue). Added a longer overflow hose, cleaned and greased the joints, cleaned all the contacts that have anything to do with steering. Steering back to normal! All it cost was a few hours in the garage! 
Doing to cooling system flush tomorrow.
Doing to cooling system flush tomorrow.
05-01-2011, 03:16 PM
#261
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^..........if you are gonna do the flush and are going to remove the engine bolt, wear some goggles(or something) and get your face a long way away.
It shoots out a good damn stream!
And notice the washer underneath the bolt. Make sure the are is clean around the hole and that the washer is in decent shape if going to re-use.
It shoots out a good damn stream!
And notice the washer underneath the bolt. Make sure the are is clean around the hole and that the washer is in decent shape if going to re-use.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 05-01-2011 at 03:20 PM.
07-13-2011, 07:35 PM
#264
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Hi guys, update. Got the PS harness, my dad came to town shortly before Memorial Day so went to my cousin's place to work on the car. Did coils, spark plugs while at it too to do a full tune-up. Removed the old wiring harness, nasty sucker! I had a hose failure and a water pump failure so the thing had been through 2 good splashes so no wonder it was faulty. Replaced, cleaned the ground area, and cleaned and put some lithium grease on the U-joint. TA-DA!!! As good as new. $120 and some hours, made easier by my dad being around.
Thanks as always to everyone here for the help!
Thanks as always to everyone here for the help!
07-13-2011, 07:54 PM
#265
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Cool! 
Now go extend that overflow hose......just in case!
And don't drive through too deep of water just for added insurance
Now go extend that overflow hose......just in case!
And don't drive through too deep of water just for added insurance
Last edited by Mazurfer; 07-13-2011 at 07:57 PM.
07-30-2011, 11:15 PM
#266
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I was also having problems with my PS light coming on. I cleaned the connectors initially, but it didn't solve anything as the connectors were already clean and I never had a boil-over.
Just the act of disconnecting the 2-wire 10 gauge power connector for a few secs, then reconnecting would turn off the light. This worked for a month, then a week, gradually getting worse to the point of only lasting a day before the PS light would come back on. I had also extended the coolant over flow hose the first time the light came on.
Anyhow, my power steering harness finally arrived today, Part # F151-67-SH0D. The remove and install took about 30 mins. Hopefully this solves the problem.
The only thing is, I only strapped on 1 zip tie to hold down the harness to the power steering rack, as opposed to the 2 zip ties on the original harness. I strapped it in such a way so that there isn't any tight bends to cause any stress on the harness. Didn't like the way the original harness was tied down.
The connectors are on the rack are really tight. I really didn't see any use for the zip ties, other than to hold down the connectors if they broke loose. But don't see that ever happening.
Just the act of disconnecting the 2-wire 10 gauge power connector for a few secs, then reconnecting would turn off the light. This worked for a month, then a week, gradually getting worse to the point of only lasting a day before the PS light would come back on. I had also extended the coolant over flow hose the first time the light came on.
Anyhow, my power steering harness finally arrived today, Part # F151-67-SH0D. The remove and install took about 30 mins. Hopefully this solves the problem.
The only thing is, I only strapped on 1 zip tie to hold down the harness to the power steering rack, as opposed to the 2 zip ties on the original harness. I strapped it in such a way so that there isn't any tight bends to cause any stress on the harness. Didn't like the way the original harness was tied down.
The connectors are on the rack are really tight. I really didn't see any use for the zip ties, other than to hold down the connectors if they broke loose. But don't see that ever happening.
Last edited by van; 08-05-2011 at 07:25 PM.
07-31-2011, 05:50 AM
#267
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I was also having problems with my PS light coming on. I cleaned the connectors initially, but it didn't solve anything as the connectors were already clean and I never had a boil-over.
Just the act of disconnecting the 2-wire 10 gauge power connector for a few secs, then reconnecting would turn off the light. This worked for a month, then a week, gradually getting worse to the point of only lasting a day before the PS light would come back on. I had also extended the coolant over flow hose the first time the light came on.
Anyhow, my power steering harness finally arrived today, Part # F151-67-SH0D ($107 shipped from onlinemazdaparts.com). The remove and install took about 30 mins. Hopefully this solves the problem.
The only thing is, I only strapped on 1 zip tie to hold down the harness to the power steering rack, as opposed to the 2 zip ties on the original harness. I strapped it in such a way so that there isn't any tight bends to cause any stress on the harness. Didn't like the way the original harness was tied down.
The connectors are on the rack are really tight. I really didn't see any use for the zip ties, other than to hold down the connectors if they broke loose. But don't see that ever happening.
Just the act of disconnecting the 2-wire 10 gauge power connector for a few secs, then reconnecting would turn off the light. This worked for a month, then a week, gradually getting worse to the point of only lasting a day before the PS light would come back on. I had also extended the coolant over flow hose the first time the light came on.
Anyhow, my power steering harness finally arrived today, Part # F151-67-SH0D ($107 shipped from onlinemazdaparts.com). The remove and install took about 30 mins. Hopefully this solves the problem.
The only thing is, I only strapped on 1 zip tie to hold down the harness to the power steering rack, as opposed to the 2 zip ties on the original harness. I strapped it in such a way so that there isn't any tight bends to cause any stress on the harness. Didn't like the way the original harness was tied down.
The connectors are on the rack are really tight. I really didn't see any use for the zip ties, other than to hold down the connectors if they broke loose. But don't see that ever happening.
07-31-2011, 02:26 PM
#268
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Thanks Mazurfer, that was the 1st thing I did. Extended the thing by a good 6-8 inches.
And van, yes I noticed the same thing with the original ziplines. I did roughly the same thing but used 2. 1 in the same place and another one to hold the harness closer to the connector, just in case.
08-01-2011, 11:44 PM
#269
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Well this certainly sucks. The PS light came on again yesterday night FFS! But now it's off. Seems intermittent.
Not sure what to try next.
.
Not sure what to try next.
.
Last edited by van; 08-02-2011 at 03:14 PM.
08-02-2011, 12:22 PM
#270
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I have been having a hard time getting my ps to stay on.
I cleaned the connections, and ocasionaly it would go off or not come on when i start the car. In the end it all reminded me of a bad connection, even after i took it appar and stuff. So on a hunch i had my alternator tested, sure enough. The voltage regulator is bad. So combine that with a partialy corroded connection, and i have a touchy ps connection.
I cleaned the connections, and ocasionaly it would go off or not come on when i start the car. In the end it all reminded me of a bad connection, even after i took it appar and stuff. So on a hunch i had my alternator tested, sure enough. The voltage regulator is bad. So combine that with a partialy corroded connection, and i have a touchy ps connection.
08-02-2011, 03:30 PM
#272
I had the power steering issue as well about 2 weeks ago. We cleaned the 2 plugs by the air box and it didnt work. I then unplugged the connector that plugs into the actual power steering ECM and cleaned it. Once I put it back on, I have not had a single issue with the power steering.
10-03-2011, 11:01 PM
#275
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Even since I got my car back from the dealership after they swapped my engine a year ago, there has always been a power steering issue. Whenever I turn left, the turning is nice and smooth, but when i turn right, there is constant shudder. This would generally only occur when the engine was cold. After the car would warm up, the steering would return to normal. Left or right.
Last week i got my first power steering warning light and when the car would start cold, there would be zero power steering. After the car got warmed up, i would turn the car off and on until the power steering would come back to life.
I removed the air intake, I did notice that there was some coolant boil over residual. I then proceeded to remove the wiring harness and cleaned the connectors with some electrical connector cleaner. After i reinstalled the wiring harness, so far, there has been no more power steering lights. Now my left turns are back to normal and the rights have a slight shudder again.
Next, I went to clean the power steering control module connectors under the PCM. No change. The alternator is good. I guess my next step is to replace the $100 wiring harness. Thoughts?
Last week i got my first power steering warning light and when the car would start cold, there would be zero power steering. After the car got warmed up, i would turn the car off and on until the power steering would come back to life.
I removed the air intake, I did notice that there was some coolant boil over residual. I then proceeded to remove the wiring harness and cleaned the connectors with some electrical connector cleaner. After i reinstalled the wiring harness, so far, there has been no more power steering lights. Now my left turns are back to normal and the rights have a slight shudder again.
Next, I went to clean the power steering control module connectors under the PCM. No change. The alternator is good. I guess my next step is to replace the $100 wiring harness. Thoughts?
Last edited by takahashi j; 10-05-2011 at 12:37 PM.