This thread was a lifesaver. Cleaned the connectors with contact cleaner from Advanced Auto Parts and now it's OK. I will extend or change the flow of the overflow tube. A quickie, what's the exact diameter of that tube and where's the best place to reroute it? Thanks!

 

I haven't touched mine since January. I only re-directed the coolant over flow and secured the lines tighter.

 

Thanks Grace, will do it over the weekend, and clean the rotors with WD-40 as shown on the DIY.

 

everyone! i love this site. unfortunately i know nothing about cars. rx8 prob wasnt the most practical choice for me... but i love the thing. and when the problems occur i feel like im always able to make a quick fix. thankyou all for your knowledge and support! i am attemping this fix today.. and next will be my heat! its getting a bit cold now.

 

hello... anyone there?

 

Did you have a question?

 

^............he put it in another thread.....I think he got his answer.

 

Just replaced the harness in my car on Thursday and problem was solved. It has been a couple of months without power steering. I almost forgot what it was like. I noticed a lot of dried up coolant on the fan tray and connectors, so i also re-routed the over flow.

Thanks guys for all the helpful posts.

 

^............good.........I try and let as many know as I can that they should do that overflow hose extension!
Did you try cleaning it first or just go for the harness?

 

I cleaned the end that plugs into the rack and torque sensor but that didn't help anything. The other day I was changing my lower radiator hose and was inspecting my overflow bottle and I broke that nipple going to the top of the radiator. So I ended up yanking everything out and just replacing the harness since it was right there. I cleaned the harness that goes from the pigtail to the module box and plugged the new one in.

The dealer wanted me to replace the rack and if that didn't work go for the module. I'm thinking about calling up North America Mazda and letting them know about the whole ordeal. Seeing that the dealer wanted to charge me around $4,000 for everything and it was fixed for 80.00. Figure I would wait about a month to see if it lasts. But it really seems back to it's original state. Before it went completely bad I could sort of feel the assist not acting right now and again. Does anyone think its even worth me complaining to Mazda about the dealer?

 

Yes, I think you should call MAzda NA, but not exactly about the dealership. I'm pretty sure they are just following the standard diagnostic/repair pathway, I've looked through the service manual. Really, you should let them know the "repair"/replacement that was suggested, and let them know that it's actually just the cable, and that LOTS of people have this same problem. If we're lucky, they'd put out a TSB about it so that other people get a good/real solution when they bring it to the dealer....

 

Not really sure they would do much about it, unless we mounted some sort of serious campaign(much like the clutch pedal, but that was a little more of a safety issue....IMO).
I've never had the issue, as I read, read, read, this forum the first few months I had this car and did those little things to avoid some relatively frequent issues I saw people having. I shutter to think how many racks and or modules have been needlessly replaced.

It's not a huge number, but people spending money when they don't have to do so gets me annoyed!

 

Yeah, I thought about the module as well when mine started acting up at around this month last year. The cold weather kept it moist. If it was dry outside, it works; if the previous evening was very cold, it won't work. For a month before I actually figured out what was the problem, I felt like asking for a prayer every single time I start the car "hoping that the electric-power steering works".

 

I called NA Mazda and told them my story. I doubt anything good will come out of it. It might help the next person who calls in about the same issue. Even if the dealership is following the Mazda guidelines, I don't get a good feeling when they tell me lets replace this part and see if it fixes it and if not we'll replace this part for another $$$$$.

Seems like I always have bad luck at the Automall dealerships. That is probably just me though.

 

Replaced the harness a year and a half ago, Zero problems since.

 

removed the harness and direct wired. It has been over 2 years and like Jedi, 0 problems.

 

For those seeking follow-up on this issue, several months ago I began having this problem. After reading in this thread, did the following (in the order listed):

1. Cleaned and lubricated every conector associated to the power steering and extended the drain tubing to the bottom, next to the lower part of the radiator. After a couple of days the problem was there.

2. Replaced the harness, the one for sensor (3 thin wires) and cleaned and lubricated the rest of the conectors. After a couple of days the same problem.

3. Eliminated the conector of the new harness and soldered each of the 3 wires, again cleaned and lubricated the rest of the conectors. After a couple of days the same sht.

Thereafter, I have live with the PS as it is until after I get some $$$ to replace the EPS rack. Yesterday note an improvement after cleaned again the conector of the 2 thickr cables (the set providing power) but today again the same problem. Probably will give another oportunity cleaning again every associated connectors. Meanwhile, does anyone know if that harness (the one with the 2 wires) is sell as a repair part? Not sure but I think it is related to some other wiring that go all around.

 

went to the dealer about this problem, they said to me i have to replace the whole steering rack, and that its a sensor inside the rack thats faulty and to replace that i gotta get the whole rack...cant buy the sensor itself...fml

 

^...........might be worth a second opinion. Got another dealer close by?
have you tried the cleaning and everything noted above in this thread? It's worth a shot.....you wouldn't be the first to have a dealer say that and then tried the cleaning, or connector bypass(hardwired), or changing the harness, and found out they really didn't need the whole rack. I'm just saying..................

 

I work at a Mazda dealer and i had the same issue.... Everything lead to the steering angle sensor and towards replacing the whole rack but trust me, if you solder the wires it fixes it.
Just solder them where the connector is supposed to go, put some heat shrink and black tape just to be sure that no water gets in there and you will be good to go...

 

Hi. Unfortunatelly, in my case I still keep having the same trouble. Last thing I did was to directly tied up the 2 wires conector, the one that provides the power. Wires should by around gauge #8 or #6. Mostly happen when my 8 is cold or beginening to move ahead. Besides, very few times when driving and when it happens it mostly at some curve. I'm beginning to get tired of this issue, since I have tried everything. Anyway, one question, have anyone noted if this happened afetr changing the wheel set-up? (meaning moving to as different offset, tire size/profile and so on). I'm just guessing if it has any other reason to ocurr other than a coolant leak.

 

agreed I did everything under the sun even prayed to the steering gods soldering the wires fixed it for me and I have not had the issue for several months now. its the only way to go

 

Between changing the wheels and dirt/moisture(water and/or coolant fluid) in the connecting wires, the likely problem will be the harness.

 

Just had the same problem. Thanks guys for the insightful info.

Approx 3 hours for the fix....yeah i know slow poke. Used a CRC contact cleaner and electrical spray can. Worked a treat.

Not sure if it's been covered in this thread yet. But once you finish and turn the car on the DSC and car icon (with the slippery symbol) will be flashing. Due to disconnecting the battery. Drive your front wheels onto some lawn or gravel and turn the wheel hard left and then hard right. Primarily because turning any low profile tyre when not moving puts quite a bit of pressure on the rack. Turn off ignition completely and turn back on.

Sounds like i have to play the waiting game to see if the fix worked....

 

Pottsy.............yes, the reset has been covered.
Hopefully you lengthened the coolant overflow tube and got it away or down below those connectors? That's important!