I'd like to offer some tips on installing an aftermarket wheel after I went through a bunch of issues installing mine. I know have it functioning perfectly, retaining DSC and airbag function with no lights on the dash.

I'm finding that many "Short Hubs" for the RX-8 (especially NRG knock-offs like mine) have a fatal flaw: the alignment holes for the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) "nubs" don't line up properly. If you align the hub with the SAS nubs, the wheel is 30° crooked. If you align the clockspring to let the steering wheel be straight, you'll freak out the DSC and you won't have any traction control and the DSC light will be on all the time. Additionally, these hubs often "bottom out" against the clockspring before they seat on the steering shaft (even after some clockspring modificaitons), so after a lot of trail and error, I came up with some solutions:

1. The "Bulkhead Surgery" (Clearance)

The factory clockspring has raised plastic "bulkheads" around the airbag and accessory connectors. Most aftermarket hubs will hit these, preventing the hub from seating.

• The Fix: You must trim down these plastic housings to create an almost flat surface.
  
• Pro-Tip: You could use side cutters like I did, but it's a little...violent, and not as clean as it could be. Use A Dremel to slowly cut/shave the plastic down until it is flush with the clockspring face.
  
  
  
  

2. Re-Drilling the Hub (Correcting the Offset)

If your hub's splines don't align with the clockspring nubs without moving the clockspring, your wheel will be crooked.

• The Fix: Don't use the pre-drilled holes if they are off. Measure the factory clockspring nubs and re-drill two new holes 90 degrees offset from the originals.
  
• Result: This allows the hub to sit straight on the splines while keeping the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) physically centered.
  
  
  
  

3. The "Shoulder" Spacer (1.75mm)

To prevent the hub from grinding against the clockspring face:

• The Part: Use a 1.75mm thick Grade 8 Washer.
  
• Modification: Use a step bit to increase the Inside Diameter (ID) to ~15.85mm and ensure the Outside Diameter (OD) is approx 22+ mm. You may have to smooth the cut for it to slide on without force.
  
• The Fit: Slide this past the splines to rest against the "shoulder" of the steering shaft. This provides the exact clearance needed for the hub to rotate freely.
  

4. Dual-Stage SRS Bypass (No More Flashing Lights)

The S1 uses 2 squibs. You need to satisfy both circuits.

• The Parts: Two (2) 2.2-ohm 0.5-watt resistors.
  
• Wiring: One resistor for White/Yellow, one for Blue/Red.
  
• The "Pro" Connection: Do not use test clips or loose crimps. Solder the wires directly to the clockspring pins and heat-shrink each one. This prevents "High Resistance" or Open Circuit (flashing code 1-9) caused by vibration or loose pins.
  

5. Final Calibration

• SRS: If soldered correctly, the light will clear after the 6-second startup check.
  
• DSC Reset: If your Traction Control light is on, start the car and turn the wheel Full Left Lock to Full Right Lock, then return to center. This "zeros" the SAS.
  

I just stress tested the setup this weekend with a full day mountain run and we're still golden. Sorry I don't have more pictures, but had I known these things from the beginning, I probably would have saved like 5 hours of headache.