Misfire rotor 2 changed coils changed leads and plugs still misfire rotor 2 I also have IAC valve failure could that be it

 

Hello,

First, The RX8 doesn't have an IACV, those functions are performed by the throttle body.

Second, This should help.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222280/

Travis

 

Did alll the things on that thread for some reason it seems that ignition is not even getting too the coils I am afraid that the wiring harness might be the problem or the shaft position sensor

 

if it helps it idles rough before it just shuts down

 

Are the plugs and wires connected to the correct coils? That's an easy mistake to make and would lead to trouble idling or driveability issues, depending on what exactly is misrouted. Why do you say ignition signal is not getting to the coils? At idle only 2 of the 4 are used (trailing, I believe), so that by itself isn't an indicator. What's the history of the car? age, model, last compression test results, mods, etc?

 

the leads are right I do not believe it is getting spark a compression test can not be done I do not have the right equipment to do now and no mechanic around here will touch a rotary and the nearest Mazda dealer is 100 miles away all I can say is it floods every time I can get it to run it blows a lot of smoke when I get it to rum but just wants to die if I dont give it gas it only has 50000 miles and I think I might have to just rebuild it its 2004 bone stock

 

Have you seen a drop of your coolant level?

 

The problem is even if you rebuild it, the problem might not be the engine core. You really want to narrow this down before potentially exposing your rebuilt engine to the same problem.
Also you don't rebuild your broken engine, you exchange it as core for a known-good rebuild from a rebuilder.

Is there oil in the intake?

 

no oil in the intake the number 2 rotor is flooding every time I try to run it

 

no drop in coolant.

 

If you've got a multimeter handy you can check the ignition coil wiring very easily. Check for voltage from the ignition coil connectors, one pin should be the same or very close to battery, i.e. if your battery has 12.8 volts then one of the pins should read no less than 12.5, but even then i'd be concerned about the harness. Check the ohms of the ignition coils, the oem style ones I have and checked recently showed 1.4 - 1.6 kohms, (1,400 to 1,600 ohms) while the 'bad' ones causing P0302 were reading 980 ohms, only one pair of pins showed resistance in my tests. I had been using duralast coils and wires from autozone, gave it a "tune-up" as part of the rebuild. Just over a month later I found evidence of the wires arcing to each other and the rear coils both having low ohms compared to the front and originals I hung on to.