Ok well I bought my car in march of 2011 with 62k miles.
It ran fine everything, after 2 months a I got a misfire in r2 p0302, and I changed the plugs and wires. It went away Untill October than I got the same misfire p0302 so I changed the 2 coils.
Around beginning of December I got a p0301 and I ignored it for alittle bit.. And I change the front coils 4 days ago on the 31
After the install I got a p0300 but no symptoms of a misfire nothing..
Maybe I installed something wrong? Aren't all coils the same?
Help would be very appreciated.
I have searched and searched but didn't find anyone with a story like mine. Getting p0300 after new coils.

 

I know the plugs are different lead and trail. But I thought the coils were the same

 

cool story...
test your plugs/coils. Make sure everything is secure and in place.
Why ignore a CEL?

 

How can you test plugs?
Why I ignored it idk to tell you the truth I just didn't want to deal with it.

 

But I never got a p0300 before and I kno I put the right plugs in right place.

 

Wrightcomputing...Correct me if I'm mistaken, but aren't you the same person who said the rx8 was built for racing, and that a 6 speed MT redlines at 9500 rpms?......Stop giving advice...

 

All 4 coils are indeed the same. Only 1 part number (if you ignore improved revisions that changed the part number).

I'm going to attempt to avoid the 'built for racing' comment...

 

Well the back 2 coils are Mazda oem from dealership and front 2 are from advanced auto. Same size just different brand? Could that be it?

 

You can easily get a misfire that has nothing to do with plugs, wires, coils or timing....

Cheapo nasty gas will do it, as will the carbon build-up it develops.

Why would anyone buy offbrand coils from Advance?

Why would anyone change out just two??

Mysteries.....

 

Depends on the part number. Advance now sells the exact same oem part number (as well as offbrand ones).

OP, the misfire should tell you which housing, front or rear. I can't pull the codes at the moment.

 

Well because I only had misfire in the rear on first? And than front a few months later?

 

It's been flashing since I installed it. It just says p0300 random misfire.

 

In which order did you attach the wires?

 

stop throwing away coils without testing them.

misfire happens. the only reason to throw coils away after a misfire is because they have tested out as bad.

p03000 could be caused


Faulty spark plugs or wires
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector(s)
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
Faulty camshaft position sensor
Defective computer

and other random things. obviously a couple of those dont apply to a rotary and cam shaft should be read as e-shaft.

do a 20 brake stomp reset

 

Thank you, I will check the ones that apply
Also when I got the p0301 code also got the faulty cat, but that went away after new coils I'll get it rescan tomatriw.
I still have the old coils

 

I don't understand???? Why wouldn't I say the 6 Speed MT Redlines at 9500rpm

 

because it doesn't

 

Because it redlines at 9000......

 

Although it doesn't matter what RPM someone says it redlines at, because there are several definitions and using any one of them makes it "wrong" from the perspective of anyone that doesn't understand that there are several different definitions.

There is redline (where the line is actually red), then there is fuel cut-off, and for both of those there is a difference between indicated RPM and actual RPM, and this difference can change from one car to the next so what is accurate for one car might not be for the next.

And I'm sure I can dig up some more definitions for what someone is referring to when they say "redline."

 

If your cluster read 12000rpm and your shaft's speed war 9000rpm what would you believe?
That's the point..

 

Agreed. Belief and reality are often different.


However my point was just aiming at the pointlessness of arguing about it. Even the "big dogs" of the forum can't agree on it. Wright's first post was also nothing remotely resembling "giving advice", so asking him to "not give advice" was nothing more than a hostile shot at him that sidetracks the thread from the OP's issue.


lta and wright obviously don't get along and I can understand that without judging either side (after all there are people on here that I don't get along with either, and I happen to like both lta and wright), and I'm just trying to dampen down the flames to avoid wrecking the thread. If they want to hash it out in a thread without innocent bystanders, by all means, go for it.

 

He wasn't giving advice on this thread, and no, I have nothing against him...I just see alot of his posts on other threads, and he provides quite a bit of inaccurate info.

 

I glanced through his last 50 posts, and he has mainly been in lounge threads discussing non-8 related topics, excepting the STX thread where he is just asking questions not providing info. Both of your prior points are the only two threads I see where he is providing any info in order for it to even be called "inaccurate", and one is slightly inaccurate, the other I actually agree with.

 

It redlines at an indicated 9000 rpm. There is an engine cutout at 9500.

 

Maybe he deleted the comments...Who knows...I don't search through his stats...Just from what I've seen, his info is a bit off...If I know my info isn't dead accurate, I don't post.