Hey guys!

I’ve swap the OEM ECU with an Haltech, I’m having problems with the timing, the car is firing at 10° in advance under idle and move to 15° when Reving, but in the Haltech program my timing is set on 0°. Engine and ECU don’t match.

I can’t find any map for the Renesis, just for the 13b. Anyone that have a clue what to do? Or if u know where I can find a base map will be awesome.

 

So first question is why? Why replace the OEM ecu with a stand alone?
My second question is why haven’t you asked Scott from Haltech or posted on their forum (assuming they have a forum)?

 

because I’ve replace the intake manifold, changed the Dbw throttle with cable one, and I’m planning to turbocharged.

I’haven’t ask in the Haltech forum yet, maybe someone has the solution here.

 

Why would you change the drive by wire?
And I’m boosted running the stock ecu

I started with the Cobb but is no long supported.
I switched to Versatuner why only because I liked their website more than MazdaEdit


Dont judge me

 

Very few people on here have run a Haltec ........... so we are not going to be a lot of help. Most of us run the stock ECU which will happily run a turbo setup really well while keeping everything else working as well.
Alternatively a tried and tested standalone ECU for your application is the Adaptronic.

 

There are also a hand full of RX-8's in the UK running the latest Link ECU's, which are comparable to the Haltech. So maybe take a look on the Link forums, as they have the RX-8 CanBus info figured out.
As others have said though, you're going to have more luck on the Haltech forums than here.

 

You have to calibrate your timing in the standalone.

In Adaptronics, from what I remember, you lock your timing on 5-10 degrees advance on the leading plug (not sure of the actual number) but there is a timing lock function in the software.

Then you put a timing gun on the leading front plug and shoot the gun down on the crank pulley and your should try to match up the white dot on the trigger wheel with the embossed part of the front cover (likely the white dot is worn off). Then you change your trigger angles until the dots line up. Then you unlock the timing and everything should be synced up.

IIRC, I had to either add or remove 7 degrees of ignition to sync the engine to the standalone.

I am not sure exactly how you do it with the Haltech, but there must be a way to calibrate your timing.

Any dyno tuner worth **** will always check to make sure your timing is synced properly before tuning.

 

that the software tuner should have already done it before hand is the succinct answer to the question …

.