Hello forum, I hope everyone is doing well.
3 weeks ago my 2004 (81k miles) started running badly, luckily, I got home and found a parking spot right outside my window. The next few days, it will barely start and barely ran. The code was for the crank angle senser. (I had replaced the sensor once before less than 3 years ago). With the lock down I had time on my hands and ordered a replacement (cheapie from ebay). I replaced the sensor from the top of the engine, because 1) don't like being under the car on the street 2) the Racing Beat air filter was due for a cleaning. After this was completed, the car would not start, cranks well and strongly but will not start. I bought another sensor from advanced auto and installed it and still crank but no start. Replaced all the plugs, no joy.

Good coils? Yes, Bennett Built 2 yrs old
Spark? Yes, a spare plug sparks when cranking
Reset? Yes, 20 pumps and the oil pressure needle went to 12 o'clock
fuel pump turning ? Yes, it hums for 2 seconds when the key is turned. And i can smell gas from the tail pipes after cranking.
Is it flooded? Don't know so I did the deflood procedure 3 times already. First with 6 cranking cycles with gas pedal down all the way. No joy. Then again with thr fuel pump fuse removed. No joy so repeated and still no joy.
Clean MAF? Yes thorough flush with CRC MAF cleaner 2x.
Clean connectors? shot the CAS plug with contact cleaner. Same for the connector plug for the MAF.
Tach movement? Yes, the tach moves off zero rpm when cranking. (added since op)

I am lost for what it can be and what to try next, please help!

Thank you so much

 

If it wasn't flooded before, it deffo is now. I would get the plugs out and clean them, then start using deflood procedure until it starts. It can take a while.

What exactly was the sensor code and can you put the original sensor back in to see if it starts then?

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The code was either p0335 or p0336, plus an oxygen sensor code and a rich code. I can't find the piece of note paper, darn it. After erasing, the p0335 or p0336 would pop immediately on start up. So I began by replaced the shaft sensor, figuring that the air fuel codes were caused by the ignition problem.

I repeatly performed the deflood procedure and was getting to the point of " am I crazy to keep repeating the same thing ?".

It's raining hard today, so will pull plugs tomorrow. I just installed new plugs while trouble shooting this problem, would they get dirty just from flooding and cranking?
Going to deflood some more and then pull the battery and charge it for the next round of deflood fun.

Thank you Loki for the help.

 

Not sure if this makes sense but the front o2 sensor is what teaches the fuel trims to the ecu. If the batt was disconnected then the fuel trims were reset. And if you have a o2 code and it's not working then the ecu is not re learning fuel trims. It was keeping my 8 from running. I put o2 sensor in and it's golden. That's when I thought of this logic. Not sure if it's true but it seems it is to me.

 

Red Line, thank you
The battery has been disconnected several times, when the CAS was replaced, then for recharging and again for the second CAS and a couple of times more for recharge.
I'm thinking that with the battery out so many times, that the AF mixture would be at baseline.
It's has not ignited at all, cranks but have not ignited at all since the first CAS change

Finally, the tach does move slightly while cranking. Note: Adding this info to my OP so all the info is in the same place.

 

Also if your starter is not turning fast enough for the crank sensor it will cut spark and throw a crank sensor code.

 

Thanks, did not know low starter speed cutting spark. Just came back in from 2 deflood crankovers (sans fuel pump fuse). Will do this again later then pull battery later for an over night charge.

I had checked for spark yesterday with an old plug and did see sparks.

Is there a need to be timed? or is it self adjusting after the reset?

 

Thanks, did not know low starter speed cutting spark. Just came back in from 2 deflood crankovers (sans fuel pump fuse). Will do this again later then pull battery later for an over night charge.

I had checked for spark yesterday with an old plug and did see sparks.

Is there a need to be timed? or is it self adjusting after the reset?

No code since the first battery pull days ago.

 

The crank sensor is the only form of timing. And there is no need or way to set it. Also I THINK only the lead plugs fire while cranking.

 

Terrific, takes timing out of the equation.

I had been checking for spark from the front upper plug (easy to reach) and it does spark while cranking.

 

Ok I thought wrong. Thank you. So all plugs fire while cranking. 🤔Or maybe only the trailing fires while cranking. Hmmm

 

Can confirm that the rear lower plug does fire on cranking.

Continue no pump fuse cranking, starting to lose hope...

 

Gas pedal to the floor while cranking for deflood right? Even when fuel pump fuse is removed, correct?

 

After about 10 WOT, pump fuse out deflood cranks, I pulled the leading plugs, they were clean.
Jacked up right side and gave it 10 x 10 sec cranks
did not see fuel dripping out, looks dry.
installed plugs and reset w 20 x brake pedal.
Popped a few times but could not keep it lite.

Going to recharge battery and try again.
Any hints on what else to check?

 

Have you tried bump starting it?. Push it or get pulled by someone.

 

I had this code last year and a new starter fixed it.

 

Bump starting is a difficult option, I live on a side street off of a main thoroughfare in a major city. People are driving like maniacs out there. Last week a guy flipped a crown vicky clear over a fense at the corner.

My starter sounds ok, and the sensor code was tripped while I was driving. Suppose I fixed one thing (CAS) and another (the starter) cropped up?

 

It was just a thought. It brought back memories of last year so I went through some old photos and found that I had the same code and it was the starter. It wasn't turning the motor fast enough for the crank sensor so it cut spark/fuel. It really sends you through a loop at that point. But I did read this info somewhere and I can't remember for the life of me. Proly here in the club somewhere no doubt.

 

Thank you Red Line, you got me reading up on the starters and now really thinking about replacing it with a more powerful one. Not easy right now to do myself.

I do know that the starter is spinning the crank fast enough to get the injectors flowing and after 1/2 a second, sparks. Can smell the former and verified w a test plug for the later.

 

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