2008 rx8 won't stay running?? Tried a lot
2008 rx8 won't stay running?? Tried a lot
Okay hello I am currently working on my 2007 rx8 140xxx miles , it all began when I was driving about 55mph doing about 5000rpm and it blew a huge cloud of white smoke out of the exhaust and then died and I started asking around and everyone is like oh that s antifreeze and I know what antifreeze smells like and it wasn't that it smelled like oil and gas. So I began to clean the oil out of the intake and it ran again no problems Besides at 8000 rpms it would do the same thing blow a huge cloud of smoke, then evenutally did it and wont start again, i have got it to start but will not stay running and if i apply gas it runs good at 2000rpms but thats it and it bogs down then backfires, so me thinking and doing some reading I was thinking spark plugs or coils so I replaced all spark plugs, coils, and wires doing this started prefect the first time then once I gave it gas it started all over again, so then I did the decarbon meathod and it ran gokd for about 6 miles still smoking at 8000 rpms but ran then after 6miles same thing so this leaves me lost I am a mechanic and I have had other people look at it and no luck. I need help
When you cleaned the oil, did you clean the MAF? If not, clean it carefully, with MAF cleaner, do not stick anything inside. And, make sure you clean the wires (hard to see) as well as the temp sensor.
Backfires = excess fuel so either your MAF is lying, you have a vacuum leak or your ignition coils aren't working.
Try to get OBD data to see what airflow amount the MAF is reporting, what AFR you're running, and in parallel can you verify that your ignition coils are all firing? That's a common failure point.
Try to get OBD data to see what airflow amount the MAF is reporting, what AFR you're running, and in parallel can you verify that your ignition coils are all firing? That's a common failure point.
I have hooked a spark tester up to the ignition wires and tested that they are all getting a spark, the leading got a spark but both the trailing didn't I heard that they had to get up to 500rpms before they would spark. I cleaned the maf and the ess both are clean
Last edited by Acl2000; Sep 26, 2017 at 02:44 PM. Reason: Adding
Do you have Airflow g/s as well?
Hard to believe the AFR is stoich yet you're getting backfires... the AFR sensor probably hasn't warmed up by the time it stalls. See if you can see in the data if it's running open loop or closed loop.
And... ambient air temp is -40? I think we found at least one problem...
Hard to believe the AFR is stoich yet you're getting backfires... the AFR sensor probably hasn't warmed up by the time it stalls. See if you can see in the data if it's running open loop or closed loop.
And... ambient air temp is -40? I think we found at least one problem...
Yes the maf was reading -40 at the time but now it is stuck reading at 90 I think but I'm tired of dumping money into to just see it not work I was going to have it compression tested but they quoted up to 300$ just for that, I will go start it and post a link to a video later so you can see what it is doing but non of the mechanics at my shop can figure it out they just keep saying blown engine which lets hope in pray not 😂😂
here, this might help,(edit : might not, lol, this is for rx7, i just realized.)
ive seen 3 things cause the smoking.
1. is the motor, it can only leak from the rotor oil seals (to burn it) which means a rebuild
2. is the turbos, they can leak into just the exhaust, just the intake, or externally, or some combination therof
3. the metering oil system, they use the valves on top of the motor to bleed air into the metering oil, or to help suck more oil, so if the vacuum side is hooked up wrong it can cause it to over oil at idle and smoke. it prolly cant move enough to do a high rpm smoke
4. it could also be the pcv, usually it just leaks externally, but it prolly could leak inside the engine
5. if you overfill it with oil, it will go everywhere and come out of odd spots
is it okay if we post threads from other sites?
https://www.nopistons.com/3rd-genera...p-15763/page2/
ive seen 3 things cause the smoking.
1. is the motor, it can only leak from the rotor oil seals (to burn it) which means a rebuild
2. is the turbos, they can leak into just the exhaust, just the intake, or externally, or some combination therof
3. the metering oil system, they use the valves on top of the motor to bleed air into the metering oil, or to help suck more oil, so if the vacuum side is hooked up wrong it can cause it to over oil at idle and smoke. it prolly cant move enough to do a high rpm smoke
4. it could also be the pcv, usually it just leaks externally, but it prolly could leak inside the engine
5. if you overfill it with oil, it will go everywhere and come out of odd spots
is it okay if we post threads from other sites?
https://www.nopistons.com/3rd-genera...p-15763/page2/
Last edited by Okki-Jakarta; Sep 27, 2017 at 12:04 AM.
I agree, the original burst of smoke could have been oil coming up through the intake. Is the intake tract dirty with oil?
However, it's not the oil metering pump. Oil comes up as a result of blowby over worn seals.
However, it's not the oil metering pump. Oil comes up as a result of blowby over worn seals.
Yes the intake has some oil in it but as soon as I clean it out it gets more in it, that little catch on the side of the intake was full of oil, I don't have a way to compression test it I have normal compression testers but I heard they won't work is there any other way to t3st if it is the engine?
I think we have our culprit. You could clean the whole intake up to the throttle body out thoroughly put a catch can in the vacuum line that goes from the oil filler neck to the intake. That will prevent oil getting into the intake enough for you to drive. That will also let you know how quickly it's accumulating.
But there is no good reason any oil should be coming up at idle, so.. that's not a happy engine.
But there is no good reason any oil should be coming up at idle, so.. that's not a happy engine.
Okay and I've been told that but my vacuum line from the oil filler goes to 2 I think they are injectors for an overflow and I did install an oil catch can there but it hasn't gotten any oil so I'm stumped, sometimes the oil that comes back out has a gas smell to it, so I know the engine isn't happy just when it first started doing what it is doing it would only happen at 8000 rpms and it still had full power in all ranges, but when it did that smoking at 8000 rpms this last time it hasn't ran good since if you have any suggestions on what to do I will do them and get back with you asap
Wait what? Your oil filler line goes to injectors? I don't know if it changes the diagnosis, but this sounds all kinds of weird. Can you take a picture?
Maybe I'm mis-interpreting the picture, it's a bit hard to see, but I don't think that's how any of that goes.. :o
So your PCV system is pressurizing the oil injector vacuum lines? Is there more outside of the frame of that shot?
So your PCV system is pressurizing the oil injector vacuum lines? Is there more outside of the frame of that shot?
Last edited by Loki; Sep 27, 2017 at 03:34 PM.
Ok well whoever messed with it, didn't do you any favours. Take all of the vacuum lines that go to the intake off and do them properly based on that diagram. The PCV/oil filler neck needs to vent to the intake (via a catch-can optionally). Otherwise pressure builds up and bad things happen.
If "overflow injectors" means the oil injector vacuum plenum thing on the passenger side, then to the intake before the throttle body. You need to get real comfortable with the diagram above and make sure your car is set up as illustrated.
The difference is that the vacuum line from the oil filler neck connects to the accordion tube on older cars and to the vacuum ports on the LIM in newer cars. I don't remember when the change was. If you don't have hoses connected to those LIM ports just make sure they have vacuum caps on them.



