I'm exceptionally stupid about this car. What series is it? My mechanic says I only have 32 psi (of compression) on the front cylinder. He tells me he can get an engine from Japan for around 2200.00. Plus installation charges. I don't think he is too familiar with rotaries. It will run in the upper RPM ranges (above 3 grand) but will barely run at idle. It's a 2005 1.3 liter. I did replace coil packs, and plugs, but not the plug wires. I couldn't get it to run and took it to this mechanic. These are the little I know. Feel free to ask questions and I will get you the answers I can. I'm sure this is the third engine in this car. (it's branded) probably has nearly 93k miles on this engine.

 

Take it to a mazda dealership and get a rotary specific compression test. You will get 6 separate numbers, 3 per rotor and an rpm generally between 200-300 rpm per rotor.

 

It's a series 1. This is not a good car for someone who doesn't know cars, but it sounds like you have things under control, coils and plugs are important parts to keep fresh.

You can't use a regular compression tester on the rotary, it wont be accurate. Hence the need for a Mazda dealer or a rotary specialist. However, the car is out of warranty, so even if the engine is dead, you're looking at a few grand for a rebuilt engine. Don't recommend going to jdm route, thr engine you buy could be just as dead as the one you're replacing. Could be fine too, you take a chance.

You obviously had it running at some point right? If you can't get it started while its cold, there are some simple things to try. May save you paying towing to the dealer for the comp test.

Are all the spark pluga connected to the right coilpack? Are all the coil packs connected to the right wiring clips? That's a common mistake people make.

Check the intake tract for obviously loose clamps, holes or missing fittings. Those will suck on extra air and cause a bad idle.

Are there any mods on the car? Take a video of it idling or not idling and post it here. If you have access to an OBD2 scanner, take a freezeframe of all sensor data at idle and post it here.

 

Thanks for the information. I'm sure the coils and plugs are connected properly. You are correct in the fact that these cars are not for the non-mechanical type. The mechanic replaced an O2 sensor and the AIT sensor, and there was an improvement. At this point in the game, he is gigging me over 900. to diagnose the engine with parts and labor. So that is how much it would cost me to get it to the dealership. I'm going to try to upload a video so you can hear it. He (the mech.) says he would just take the title in lieu of the 900. it makes me wonder if he has a line on another engine and is just looking for a cool car for his grandkid or someone. So, if there is ANYONE that would be willing to offer more than that, this rascal would be up for grabs.
Thanks for all of your knowledge.


The Bird


I have to change the video file format in order for it to upload. The system will not accept a .3gp file format.

 

The mechanic sounds clueless, or he is taking you for a ride. The AIT has nothing to do with your issue, and the O2 sensor would may contribute but it wouldn't be the only problem.

Have him check the things I outlined, and provide the OBD2 data so we can diagnose properly.

If he thinks it only has 32psi of compression why is he changing sensors?

Run, run far away. If you want to keep the car, get Mazda to look at it. They should at least be able to give you a proper diagnosis. Otherwise, cut your losses, and maybe take the mechanics offer. Let him figure it out.

 

Your mechanic is either incompetent or is willfully ripping you off and giving you bad information. $900 for what he has done so far is ridiculous. From what you wrote here, 2 hours of labor and $200 in parts is about what he should be charging for what he (probably needlessly) did. That amounts to about $400. Get your car to someone who knows rotary engines. Find out if the engine is healthy through a rotary-specific test before you spend any more money on parts. A rotary compression test should cost around $150.

 

Yeah looks like your Mechanic is deliberately ripping you off and trying to get the car off you for cheap.

As mentioned by others above, get it diagnosed by a proper rotary technician or take it to Mazda get a compression test and have them diagnose the problem then you can either ask forum members in helping you fix the issues or take it a another mechanic..

all the best!!

 

I think you all are correct in your assessment of my situation. I just need to decide if I want to keep the car. It has been and is a very cool machine. It has served us well. Again, if anyone is interested... I would like to see it go to a good home.

 

Honestly, without compression score and further maintenance history no one on the forum would even bother.

once you have the Compression Score in your hand, and its in the passing mark then you can get much better than $900 for your car..

All the best.

 

Thanks for the good advice. Do you happen to know what the "compression score" might be? In general, what numbers are acceptable?