P0850 & p0420
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P0850 & p0420
So this morning I got these two codes. Before it happened I did notice before car was warmed up the rpm would fluctuate. When I pushed in clutch it would idle steady.
Do I need to change the neutral switch? I guess I should pull the cat and check that as well unless the idle hunt could cause the other code. Any thoughts?
Do I need to change the neutral switch? I guess I should pull the cat and check that as well unless the idle hunt could cause the other code. Any thoughts?
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From: Tyrone, PA
P0420 you should for sure check the cat, and if possible don't drive your car until you have done this. Here is a copied post I just put up on another P0420 thread.
...You can test the catalytic converter without pulling it off, but generally speaking, if it isn't already gutted, your cat is done in. There are 3 viable options for you at this point.
1. Pull your catalytic converter and gut it. This will lessen restriction in your exhaust, potentially offering you minimal hp gains, as well as removing an area of potential danger. Driving with a clogged cat = Dead engine. Just ask Williard. This will mean you will have a Check Engine Light illuminated reading P0420, and will continue to, but it will eliminate the risk to your vehicle. This can cause issues with emissions testing if that is something you have to deal with in your area
2. Replace your catalytic converter with an OEM Replacement from Mazda. These are very expensive ( in the 1000usd range). Your general catalytic converter from autozone or what-have-you will melt under our vehicles heat. while they do fit, they will likely fail within 100miles of installation . some last longer, but point is, it isn't made to withstand our heat and you will be doing this way more often than you want to if you take the cheap route.
BHR and HJS are both options for you as far as aftermarket goes. IIRC BHR makes a catted midpipe or a cat for their midpipe, and HJS is claimed to be able to withstand tracking temps, so they should be sufficient for what you need. Outside of these two options I know of know that would be cheaper than a OEM and would withstand our temps.
3. Replace your catalytic converter with a cheapy from autozone, and gut your old cat. Run your old cat between emissions, and when you need to pass a sniffer test when your inspections/emission run out, swap your shiny new autozone one on for the test. Its more work intensive, but covers you for your emissions and you don't have to worry about a clogged cat.
...You can test the catalytic converter without pulling it off, but generally speaking, if it isn't already gutted, your cat is done in. There are 3 viable options for you at this point.
1. Pull your catalytic converter and gut it. This will lessen restriction in your exhaust, potentially offering you minimal hp gains, as well as removing an area of potential danger. Driving with a clogged cat = Dead engine. Just ask Williard. This will mean you will have a Check Engine Light illuminated reading P0420, and will continue to, but it will eliminate the risk to your vehicle. This can cause issues with emissions testing if that is something you have to deal with in your area
2. Replace your catalytic converter with an OEM Replacement from Mazda. These are very expensive ( in the 1000usd range). Your general catalytic converter from autozone or what-have-you will melt under our vehicles heat. while they do fit, they will likely fail within 100miles of installation . some last longer, but point is, it isn't made to withstand our heat and you will be doing this way more often than you want to if you take the cheap route.
BHR and HJS are both options for you as far as aftermarket goes. IIRC BHR makes a catted midpipe or a cat for their midpipe, and HJS is claimed to be able to withstand tracking temps, so they should be sufficient for what you need. Outside of these two options I know of know that would be cheaper than a OEM and would withstand our temps.
3. Replace your catalytic converter with a cheapy from autozone, and gut your old cat. Run your old cat between emissions, and when you need to pass a sniffer test when your inspections/emission run out, swap your shiny new autozone one on for the test. Its more work intensive, but covers you for your emissions and you don't have to worry about a clogged cat.
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